Lower your IAT's with SRI

[3Gee Tee]

Did you plug the nipple on the stock intake hose at all? If so, what did you use?

If not, I'm wondering if it would create a vacuum effect and actually draw in more hot air through it. Thanks.


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[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by 3Gee Tee Did you plug the nipple on the stock intake hose at all? If so, what did you use? If not, I'm wondering if it would create a vacuum effect and actually draw in more hot air through it. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

are you talking about the stock intake hose that i used to create this vent for fresh air to the filter?

I stuffed a peice of sponge in there so it doesnt leak any vented air that i want to go to the filter.

[3Gee Tee]

Yes I was. I see, thanks.


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[shorts465]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica chimmike , here is a shot of IAT vs BAT when there is very poor airflow to the SRI filter, the IAT sensor gets soaked by engine bay heat and reads very high. But notice BAT's are not higher than that.

I definitely have the same situation where IAT is higher that BAT for the first minute or so after I stop at a stoplight. It didn't happen before I did the throttle body coolant bypass but my BAT's where noticeably higher back then when it was still attached. I have the CP-E TMIC and I thought maybe it was still cool from when I was moving and it was absorbing some of that heat before it reached the thottle and BAT sensor, but the heat soaking makes more sense. Thanks for these trick's OP. I'm going to try that duct sealing trick and see if I can get my temps colder. It seems like it takes forever to get my BAT's down after the the TMIC is really heat soaked. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes at highway speed until they are back down. I know the front mount would solve this, but I think a lot of people in this thread just don't want to go with that option right now (I'm one of them).

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by shorts465 I definitely have the same situation where IAT is higher that BAT for the first minute or so after I stop at a stoplight. It didn't happen before I did the throttle body coolant bypass but my BAT's where noticeably higher back then when it was still attached. I have the CP-E TMIC and I thought maybe it was still cool from when I was moving and it was absorbing some of that heat before it reached the thottle and BAT sensor, but the heat soaking makes more sense. Thanks for these trick's OP. I'm going to try that duct sealing trick and see if I can get my temps colder. It seems like it takes forever to get my BAT's down after the the TMIC is really heat soaked. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes at highway speed until they are back down. I know the front mount would solve this, but I think a lot of people in this thread just don't want to go with that option right now (I'm one of them).

Sealing that ducting helps a lot.

I helped Bockie84 seal his ducting for his stock TMIC and his BAT's noticeably came down.

[Bockie84]

My bats dropped like 15-20 degrees after being sealed. This was in the same weather, so I could easily see there was a noticeable difference.

[shorts465]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Sealing that ducting helps a lot. I helped Bockie84 seal his ducting for his stock TMIC and his BAT's noticeably came down.

I'm planning on doing that tomorrow since my car is apart right now. I saw ms3blackmica's pictures and he said he used rvt sealant. Do you think that regular silicone caulk would be ok, like for exterior windows? I have some left over from a house project and would like to use that up if possible. Does RVT have high temperature properties that make it more appropriate for this application?

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by shorts465 I'm planning on doing that tomorrow since my car is apart right now. I saw ms3blackmica's pictures and he said he used rvt sealant. Do you think that regular silicone caulk would be ok, like for exterior windows? I have some left over from a house project and would like to use that up if possible. Does RVT have high temperature properties that make it more appropriate for this application?

I'm not sure if caulk would work well. It probably would.

But i used RTV because of its high temperature resistance. Plus the black RTV blends well and doesn't stick out when i open the hood.

[rolanblack]

Im thinking of trying this out
Dynomat the plastic air duct from the front to the end of the shroud seal. I figured that it would seal any loss of air plus the plastic wouldn't be hot from the engine thus having the duct cool and the air cool or cooler. Could or would drop 2°-5.

[shorts465]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica I'm not sure if caulk would work well. It probably would. But i used RTV because of its high temperature resistance. Plus the black RTV blends well and doesn't stick out when i open the hood.

That's a good enough reason for me to use RVT then. I just had the other stuff laying around and wanted to use it up. Ill take a look at it and if it doesn't say it works in high temps them I won't use it. It's clear so it wouldn't look bad. If it would work.

[86azms3]

creative.

[rolanblack]

ms3blackmica; old thread but at stand still, did you notice your bats jump up due to heatsoaking in city traffic?

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by rolanblack ms3blackmica; old thread but at stand still, did you notice your bats jump up due to heatsoaking in city traffic?

I have a TMIC so yes of course they rise in traffic.

[rolanblack]

cool, oh ad the dyno mat was a wasted. should have just plastidip the plastic duct and going to rtv as well