Mold in PG cluster.

[Demi]

Bout time we had one of these around here. I think everyone knows how to take this out so i will skip that. I was gonna just give this thing away because of the amount of work i was thinking it was gonnna be, but its not bad. Get one. Do it yourself. If i can you can. This is my first project like this so if someone has a better way, post it. Im not an expert by a long shot. I had an audio shop give me a quote for this exactly and it was $500. We have better things to spend $500 on, so here ya go. Rember if you sand, wash before the next step!!!

You need to remove to flasher button and vents. Heres how.

Squeeze the clips on the top and bottom and push the button out through the front. Next remove the six screws that hold the vents in.

Weapons of choice.....

There is 60 second epoxy in the picture, guess what they mean 60 seconds. IIt was dry before i put it together. Use plastic weld. I used the whole bottle and spread it with a plastic knife.
The clamp kit i got from Walmart for 5 bucks. Super sweet.

The Prosport gauges dont clear the stock piece without cutting. I used a dremel. Dont be afraid of this step. The entire piece is covered by the PG part so unless you have a epileptic fit while cutting you will be fine. Both pieces needs scuffed. The OEM part and the bottom of the PG part for the epoxy to hold better, and the top of the PG part for toning down the texture of the cluster (its a bit much to match), and also to help the primer adhere. Wash the piece to get all the dust off.


Put the Plastic Weld on there LIBERALLY. Used the whole bottle and spread it with a plastic knife. Use two of the big clamps at first, then get it where you want it and throw the rest on. No such thing as too many clamps.


Mixing bondo takes some practice. This is WAY too much hardener. Too much wont destroy your project or anything it just makes it a time critical ordeal because dries FAST. It should be just a little pink.

Half this would be ideal.

Bondo applicators dont cost much and help alot.


This is a bit sloppy, but with Bondo you can always adjust. Let it dry for about ten minutes until its tacky and do your sanding then. If you wait it will just require more sanding. You can use your finger nails and stuff to shave the excess off of places you dont want it.


This is the most important step and i cant stress this enough. DELEGATE YOUR WORK. Lol


Start with the 120 grit. Try to look for pits in your bondo work. Sand those out, and if you find that it no longer flows add another layer of bondo. When you have it flowing right follow up with th 260. Dont lose your mind here, because the little scratches and stuff will be handled by the primer.


After it cures (I gave mine two hours, but if you mix the hardener light give it longer) I hit it with a few layers of primer. Because the bondo is a different color than the piece you will see your mistakes here. Figure out if they are bad enough to warrant more bondo. If not sand the primer and reprimer. Wash rinse and repeat. Little pits and stuff the primer will take care off. Primer and sand primer and sand. Till you like it.



UP NEXT! PAINT!

[Demi]

Here it is with the vents and stuff.

It needs cleaned off again and i need to shave a bit more off the back, but you get the idea.

The on the back of the PG part the part that goes down hits the dash and has to be shaved. If i were doing it again i would cut it off before starting and just bondo it in.
Yes i have two boost gauges, i just threw them in to fill the holes for the moment.

[EasternWind]

Nice, thanks for the write up. I think I might try this on my own.

[jhershorin]

I have made about 11 of these for people. It helps to move it back some. Tape the front about 3/4" from the ac vents all the way over the ac vents. Shave the contact surfaces for less height in the build. I will try to put up pics soon. When I make them there is no elevation around the pod. They look OEM. I usually charge 350 for them but if this forum wants some I would do 250.

[Demi]

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Moving it a little back would be ideal. I was also toying with the idea of selling some. Not for any real profit, but just to hook up some folks on the forum.

[jhershorin]

The lotek pods are crap as well. The far right gauge sits cock-eyed.

[Dash08]

I'd buy one.
Looks sweet!!

[Demi]

PM me if you decide to, ill hook ya up.

[Frankie3mps]

does anyone know if there is a pod for RHD models... like us ppl in australia???
thats the one thing im missing... since curtain airbags will not allow me to run gauges up the pillar, and it looks kinda crap there anyways, thats a perfect idea, but cant find one to fit RHD!!!

if there was a RHD one, i know so many ppl would be in for that.... its been discussed on our aussie forums before...

[kingpin748]

Originally Posted by Frankie3mps does anyone know if there is a pod for RHD models... like us ppl in australia??? thats the one thing im missing... since curtain airbags will not allow me to run gauges up the pillar, and it looks kinda crap there anyways, thats a perfect idea, but cant find one to fit RHD!!! if there was a RHD one, i know so many ppl would be in for that.... its been discussed on our aussie forums before...

Curtain airbags don't stop you from running gauge pillars.

[Frankie3mps]

they dont stop you, but its a stupid idea to have gauges there if you have airbags...

[Demi]

What he means is the a pillars dont come off, they swing and the bags pop out from around them. No ballistic gauges, dont worry.

[Frankie3mps]

id much rather them in the middle though... just no one makes those pods for RHD models!

[a4tek]

great writte up