Custom Performance Engineering Billet Motor Mount System
Review Written By Lenny127 | Edited By Haltech
We have finally received the much anticipated set of motor mounts from Cp-e. The set consists of the Rear Motor Mount (that has been out on the market for a while) and the newly released Passenger Side Motor Mount and the Transmission Motor Mount. At first glance it is obvious that some serious time was spent both engineering these pieces and machining them. They come in polished aluminum finish with their corresponding Cp-e logos engraved on them. As a community, we have been waiting for a company to provide us a solid mount solution and CP-e has delivered that to us. I can remember back in late 2007 and early 2008 when we needed a transmission mount solution. We would have to epoxy our torn mounts just to get some durability out of them. Let's not forget how many engines we saw hit the ground while moving due to failed mounts! Well, we no longer have to worry about this problem any longer. Please give a steady look at these pics as proof. Pure billet baby!
Some of the research for these mounts comes after 8 months of testing in the Grand Am series mazdaspeed3s. These motor mounts cater to both the mild street car enthusiast and also to the hardcore racer that isn't as concerned with vibrations. The mounts can be chosen in either 60 or 75 durometer form, and unlike a lot of the other mounts out there Cp-e has chosen to use rubber instead of urethane for their bushings, it's felt that rubber has a better tolerance to engine heat than urethane , therefore increasing the life of the part . They have spared no cost when researching the materials to be used on these mounts, , billet 6061-series aluminum is used for a few reasons, durability, lessening of vibrations and harshness and of course looks. (these pieces look like they belong on a $100,000 car.) Also, on some of the parts that even more strength was necessary , ¼ inch mild steel was used ,laser cut of course for perfect fitment. One of the last differences you will notice with Cp-e motor mounts vs the competition is the size of the bushings used, they feel that rather than concentrating the forces created by the engine load all on the center bushing pin, increasing the material around this pin not only distributes the load more evenly but also absorbs some of those annoying vibrations usually related to performance mounts.
The quality of these mounts speak for themselves as do the materials used, this makes these parts perhaps a bit higher cost than the competition, but when it comes to holding your engine in place and letting the pavement feel every bit of horsepower that you have earned then Cp-e mounts might just be the mounts for you.
Why get the complete set?
Let's face it, if your drive a Mazdaspeed3 and have spent any type of money modifying it's power output then you know that every horsepower you have made hasn't seen the pavement. We cannot kid ourselves into thinking that a FWD/Manual Transmission platform is the easiest power delivery platform out there..hardly the case. At some point we all have to make a choice about how intelligently we are going about putting some of this expensive added power to the ground. From torque steer, excessive tire-spin to the dreaded wheel-hop the Cp-e Motor Mount set addresses all these issues in a very balanced way that doesn't leave the driver thinking he is driving a go-kart from all the vibrations and noises.
[multipage=Installation - Rear Motor Mount]
Rear Motor Mount Installation:
The most common Motor Mount swap is always the rear one , so we will commence with it. You can use both ramps or jack stands w/jack to lift the car for this install. In our case we used jack stands and wheel chocks (it is always an added precaution to use those to ensure the car doesn't roll back). The rear motor mount is easily accessible and only 5 bolts are involved in the process.
To begin loosen this 17mm bolt that connects the bushing end of the motor mount to the chassis.
(it may have loc-tite so get that elbow grease ready) Next, loosen this 17mm bolt that connects to the other side of the motor mount (in this case an aftermarket motor mount was previously installed).
Next, you will have to loosen and remove the 3 (19mm) bolts and the bracket they attach to the transmission.
Once these tasks are complete the old motor mount should be able to slide out.
Here is the hardware used along with the Cp-e RMM http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/pics.../cpe_mm/12.jpg
And here is how it is properly put on the RMM
(notice one side is engraved and it must face down when installed) http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/pics.../cpe_mm/18.jpg
[multipage=Rear Motor Mount Installation Cont'd]
Now we must reverse the process and remember the motor mount must be secured to the engine first and the chassis second. After the RMM is slid into place , re attach the 3 bolted bracket back onto the transmission.
Now attach the bolt provided by Cp-e along with the flat/lock washers and secure onto the RMM , then re-use the 17mm bolt that connects the bushing side to the chassis (use red loc-tite on it)
and the lock washer should be used like so.
Last step is to make sure you torque the bolts to 75ft lbs and you are done.
[multipage=Installation - Passenger Motor Mount]
Passenger Motor Mount:
Ok, next on the list is the passenger side mount. Pretty quick swap (easiest of them all).
First thing you want to do is get a jack and a block of wood and hold the motor at resting height at the oil pan (MAKE SURE YOU USE A BLOCK OF WOOD UNLESS YOU WANT TO DAMAGE THE PAN).
Let's begin by taking off these 2 small bolts that hold the water reservoir and the power-steering reservoir.
Next, pull off the water reservoir , but before you do there is a little side clip that needs to be pried with a small flathead.
Once it snaps off just lift the reservoir and should slide right out.
The powers steering one just lifts off after the single bolt is taken out, but it does have the rubber lines attached to it so just move it out of the way. Once the 2 reservoirs are out of the way you should have a nice clear view of the work ahead.
Let's begin with undoing the ground, just take the bolt off.
Next step, is removing the 2 bolts holding the bracket that bolts to the chassis.
Last step in the removal is the 2 bolts holding the mount to the engine.
[multipage=Pass Mount Cont]
Passenger Mount Cont:
Now , simply pull the assembly up and back. (remember if there are any clearance issues when removing or installing the mount, u can manipulate the height of the motor with the jack )
The install now is obviously the reverse of the removal process. (make sure you route the ground under the new mount so the little groung tab is able to reach the hole provided for the oem bolt to secure the ground.
Take the mount and place it in it's right position (remember to use the jack to facilitate the process)
Now in this order loosely bolt everything back on. (ground, the 2 nuts to the motor and the longitudinal bolt across the mount through the bushing. Don't tighten anything yet....this is just to align everything and the motor may or may not have to be moved some to line up the final 2 slots for the mount to chassis connection.
Once they are lined up....loosely put the 2 remaining bolts on there so the mount is "aligned" but not tightened.
Now, same as the RMM..... tighten the motor to mount side first.
Followed by the mount to chassis bolts.
and finally the bolt that goes through the bushing.
now that everything is torqued to spec, let's put back the 2 reservoirs and done!
[multipage=Trasmission Mount Installation]
Trasmission Mount Installation
Last on the list of mounts is the transmission mount.
We need to pre-assemble the mount first before installing it on the car.
Let's get some loc-tite on the allen head bolts and attach the steel plate to the aluminum body of the mount.
Now the assembled mount will look like this
Ok, time to swap mounts. Let's start with removing the battery and tray. (don't forget to hold up the transmission side of the motor now with a jack like we did on the passenger side before, this will hold the height)
With the tray off it will look like this.
Remove the 4 nuts holding the black bracket first.
next, lets take the 2 small bolts closest to the drivers side fender and the main 17mm bolt holding the mount in place.
not just pull the bracket off and the mount will come up and out easily. (this is the stocker filled with urethane, TIME TO UPGRADE!!)
remove next the tripod that is directly under the mount , it will not be used.
now the Cp-e kit provides a bolt that replaces this stud on the transmission case (because of height)
So we need to remove it , simplest and cheapest way is to use the old "double nut " method. Basically thread 2 nuts on the stud, butt them up against each other, and once they mate up the bottom one "locks" into place and can be turned counterclockwise to unbolt the stud.
Place the mount now in position by lining up the existing bolt holes.
now use the bolt and washer provided in the kit to secure the firewall side of the mount loosely , be extremely careful because this hardened steel bolt can chew up the threaded hole of the tranny case...take your time.
next , secure the other bolt and the nut on the remaining stud that completes the "tripod" connection in the new more secure way. go ahead and torque to spec since this is the connection to the transmission and needs to be always secure first, before attaching the chassis side.
the next step is to slide the mild steel bracket over the mount and line it up with the 4 studs on the chassis, use the jack to help you line things up.
before putting on the 4 larger OEM nuts back on don't forget to slide on the thin OEM bracket and then torque to spec
and also the 2 smaller nuts on the same bracket last.
[multipage=Trans Almost Complete]
replace the tray and then battery
and I guess the only thing left to do now is to drive the piss out of the car to see how these things perform.
[multipage=Conclusion & Impression]
Conclusion and Impressions:
Now I have had stock, and TRZ mounts on my car so I have 2 different set ups to compare this kit to.
First off, the vibrations are minimal...... yes you can definitively tell upon start up that there is a more direct connection to the engine now but not in the same way as the stiffer mounts like TRZ. I turned also the AC and the vibrations did not change at all. So for "creature comfort" evaluation the Cp-e motor mount kit is really a great way to go.
Keeping in mind that I have an ACT clutch kit with a light flywheel and a 6 puck disc some noise transfer does exist, ..... I suspect that on stock clutch set ups the noise will not be there.....but if you do have the usual ACT set up like a lot of us do, you can expect some noise feedback at idle and deceleration, it isn't bad but it is there.
Now , road performance. Vast improvement over stock, car feels more connected to the ground and a lot of that OEM slop is gone. The car feels quicker to react to throttle input and makes the driving experience more enjoyable. Wheel hop is of course greatly improved and the issue is more about tire spin now than the wheel bouncing up and down.
Keep in mind my vehicle has full mods and a 3071r pushing 22psi ......so my vehicle responds more violently to WOT conditions than i would say the average ms3. On completely flat surfaces I only experience slight hop in second and none in 3rd. On patchy roads then all bets are off , but then again that isn't the ideal driving conditions.
Are these the best mounts out there???? It really depends what you are after, I look at it like this :
The Cp-e motor mount kit is the best blend of the spectrum. It provides the safety of knowing that the engine will not jump off the bay , the performance of road feedback along with the drastic reduction in wheel hop and most importantly NOT at the expense of comfort and excessive vibrations.
For an all out drag racing scenario there are options that are probably better performing than this kit, but for a car that has to serve the usual two masters of weekend racing duty and weekday daily driver usage then this kit is most likely the one you want. These will serve perfectly well for the autocross and road race guy who doesn't have to worry about swapping his transmount here every weekend. We have been driving around with these installed for a month to give them a thorough break in period and fair analyst.
I would like to see CP-e offer these mounts in a kit with some discounted pricing attached to it!
We would like to thank Josh at CP-e for giving us a set of these mounts to install and review. This mounts are currently available from CP-e themselves but you may find discounting through our supporting vendors here at MSF.
Nice write up.
The CP-E mounts definatly are the highest quality out of any. The new pricing scheme on CP-E products is a bit dubious though. Back when the RMM only cost $130 it was definatly the best buy. The increase to $230 was a no-no, and now they are at $180. $180 still seems a bit high though.
I doubt i'll get the side mounts ever, but that tranny mount in particular looks like a beast.
the quality is definitely there, the price ....well, companies like sure and jbr will force cpe s prices to go down ..if they want to be competitive.
because this kit as a whole is what , like 800-900? or how much? and that is a lot of loot
jesus. i paid one third that for all 3 mounts.
someone edited out my pics, lamee
Yeah, but they are pure sex when you get them on the block. I haz all 3 and forgot what wheel hop even feels like. Hardly any engine movement and with the 60 duro I hardly have any vibes at all.
And with the qualitiy of these mounts, the reliability gives me great piece of mind that whenever I drop my clutch or get off and on the gas really quick that my block isn't going to drop out of my engine bay and onto the ground.
I will gladly pay the extra money for a quality part that I know isn't going to take a giant shit on me. Thanks to CP-E I don't have to worry about any of that. CP-E FTW bitches!!!
I have all Of these mounts installed as of a week ago. What a Difference!!! I love it! No More wheel hop!! First gear sucks way less!! I get every ounce of power to the wheels. I love the vibes too! Its not overwhelming at all! I think I would have liked a lil more actually. The guys at Cp-e were great for installing them for me too! A major plus! Next is the intake and the bov! Do your mounts! You'll Love it! You get what you pay for, I cant afford a dropped engine!
is there a break in time for these mounts? i just installed mine less then a week ago. but when i try to take it to high rpm in 1-2 gear it seems like there is way too much vibration. after a couple of days of driving it seems easier to take it to higher rpm but as far as right now 1-2 gear high rpm just doesn't seem smooth.
Just installed my tmm today. Must say torque steer is completely gone now. Not that it was ever a big deal, but I can't say I miss it. Car has much better shifts now, but that may be due to my Stocker taking a shit after I installed the Ingalls stiffy on the opposite side. For the people who have done the bsd and had to go back to the stock passenger mount, I think the stiffy is a great alternative.
Anyway all is good minus one loud clunk while decelerating in 2nd. I'll look into more Sunday and check all my torque specs again.
Great write up.
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It's not too bad. And I've got it set to medium stiffness. This is coming from a guy who thought the stock cat back with res delete was too loud...
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I just installed my 60 Duro CP-E RMM. I must say first time driving after installing it you can feel the vibrations but its only in the sub 1500 RPM range. I've had it installed for a couple of days now and the vibrations have let off a bit. The mounts helped with torque steer and launching the car. Overall great product and quality.
[QUOTE=jdspeed3;1917905]I just installed my 60 Duro CP-E RMM. I must say first time driving after installing it you can feel the vibrations but its only in the sub 1500 RPM range. I've had it installed for a couple of days now and the vibrations have let off a bit. The mounts helped with torque steer and launching the car. Overall great product and quality.[/QUOTE
wait till you take it to higher rpm feels like a motorcycle kinda of.
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