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|03-04-2012, 10:41 PM||#1|
| Neutral : +1 score |
JBR Motor Mounts
James Barone Racing is a relatively new name to the Mazda aftermarket. Jamie has been making quality products for the Mazda market since September 2009. Today, we will be reviewing a full set of his 80a durometer motor mounts for the Mazdaspeed 3 (Gen 1 and Gen 2). Since there has already been a MSF review done on the CP-E mounts, this review will only have limited coverage of the installation process. In addition to the installation tutorial in the existing MSF review, very thorough instructions are available here at the JBR support website:
Support : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication
The main goal of this review is to show the reader how the successive installation of the JBR RMM, TMM, and then the PMM affect the performance, drivability, and ride comfort of their car. This review was written to answer the common questions that people have about how their car will be affected by upgrading the three different kinds of Mazdaspeed 3 motor mounts.
There are three Mazdaspeed 3 motor mounts: the Rear Motor Mount (RMM), Transmission Motor Mount (TMM), and Passenger Motor Mount (PMM). This section will cover the design of the physical dimensions and materials that make up the mount bushings, and the importance of engine mount placement. The TMM and PMM are commonly collectively referred to as the side mounts. It is important to note that these two side mounts are the load-bearing mounts. When at rest, the engine sits on these two side mounts. This is why the engine does not need to be supported when doing a RMM install. Here is a picture of roughly where the stock side mounts are located:
When the engine is turning, the rotation of the crankshaft induces a circular rotational force (as seen in the picture above) that rocks the engine back and forth in place toward the front and back of the car when the rotation of the crankshaft accelerates and decelerates. The side motor mounts are designed to support the weight of the engine pushing downward and the horizontal forces exerted by the rotational force of the crankshaft. The placement of the PMM at the top of the rotational arc and the TMM at the bottom of the rotational arc allow the isolation of the circular forces generated by the crankshaft to a single horizontal plane at these strategic locations. These forces are shown in the following pictures, which are taken as if the camera were aimed from the driver’s side while the mount was installed:
This gives absorption points to deaden the rotational forces generated by the crankshaft at both the top and bottom of the arc it traverses. The bushings of the stock side motor mounts were designed to deaden forces in both a vertical and horizontal direction, so this is why they are both shaped in a roughly conical shape:
This conical shape is designed to only be secured (attached to the frame of the car) on one side of the bushing (with the weight of the engine pushing on this point), with the other side of the bushing swinging loosely to absorb engine vibration and rotational energy in both a vertical and horizontal direction. The advantage of this complex bushing geometry is that it allows for the absorption of both horizontal and vertical forces, but its disadvantage is that it allows more deflection, and does not age as well as a more standard bushing design. This differs from the RMM, which is designed to deal with only the horizontal rotational forces, which are roughly parallel to the ground at the point where the RMM is mounted. Remember: the stock motor mounts were designed with daily driving comfort as a high priority, so that is why Mazda has used rubber bushings with complex conical bushings and extra cutouts to allow for added comfort while driving and idling. The follow picture shows the JBR 88a dogbone RMM, but its bushing orientation is the same as the stock RMM:
A common change that aftermarket mounts make to the OEM design is to make the mount bushings solid (as opposed to having the weird cutouts that the OEM RMM and TMM have) to increase the hardness of the bushing material. The durometer of the bushing gives a measure of the hardness of the material. The harder the material, the more force it is able to absorb for a given amount of deflection (and the more uncomfortable it is for the ride quality). Aftermarket mounts also commonly change the hardness (durometer) of the specific blend of polyurethane or rubber that they use to achieve different levels of performance vs comfort that fit the needs of their users. Generally, the better the mount performs, the more the ride comfort will suffer. (Sorry, no free lunch here…)
The physical dimensions of the bushing also play a large role in the performance and comfortable characteristics of the mount. A bushing with a small diameter will put a lot more stress on the bushing material, whereas a larger bushing will have much more bushing material to absorb the force applied by the engine. This means that all things equal, a large bushing does not need to be as hard as a smaller bushing to maintain the same deflection with the same applied force. Additionally, a larger bushing (of appropriate hardness) eats up more high frequency (low amplitude) vibration while still providing good deadening against large movements than a smaller bushing. These performance and comfort advantages are why JBR uses some of the largest bushings available on the market.
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Last edited by Sacrilicious; 03-08-2012 at 09:10 PM.
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|04-06-2012, 03:42 PM||#2|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
Awesome write up man. I'm really starting to feel the slop since I've went BT. Power is coming on so hard at spool up I think i'm stressing my mounts to the max.
I may try a set of the 70 duro side mounts and see how they treat me. Hopefully slightly less vibes and noise.
2012 Triumph Street Triple
SOLD -- 2010 Velocity Mica Red MS3
ATP GTX3071r - Cobb AP(Freek Permed) - CNT Catted DP - UR CBE - DO Stage 2 WMI(80/20) - cp-e TMIC - cp-e xcelXL - cp-e invicid inlet - Grimmspeed MBC - KMD v2.2 hpfp internals - Bosch 3bar MAP - H&R Springs - DDM 6k Raptor Kit - ITV22's - Forge v2 BPV - 225/40/18 Nitto Neogens - SURE RMM
|04-26-2012, 02:54 PM||#3|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
Excellent. Thank you!
'08 Polar White Saturn SKY Redline - "The RAWRmobile"
BorgWarner EFR 6758 + IWG Mani, forge v2 BPV, Energy Full Suspension Bushings, GMPP 3-Bars, Vibrant Racing Catted HiFlow Downpipe, WERKS Boost Tubes, Intake, Power-Steering Relocation Kit, Radiator Hoses, and Race FMIC, Koni Yellows + Eibach Pro-Kit's, RPi GT CBE, HP Tuner SquishyTooned on E40, RK Sport Rotors/Pads, DDMWorks 2-gauge Pillarpod and Armrest, Prosport HALO Electronic Wideband and Boost Gauges, Spec Stage 2+ Clutch + Fidanza Single-Mass FryWhee, XTUNERS Gauge Cluster, GM Roadster.com HID/LED Full Exterior and Interior Light ConversionDyno: Uhh... fast as hell?
'08.0 Cosmic Blue MS3 - "The Daily" STOCKED OUT (almost)
COBB SRI/TIP - COBB AP SquishyTooned on E40 - COBB XLE BPV - HKS Hi-Power CBE - ITV22s - Corksport RMM Inserts - JBR Shifter Bushings and SSP - PTP Fuel Pump - PG + Treadstone - 35% Tint - ebaY Double-Penetrator - MS3 Vent Kit InstallDyno: 319 / 331
CWP_MS3 is my mackdaddy
|03-09-2013, 05:57 PM||#4|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
I really aprecaite the videos, Honestly I haven't been around any other cars with after market mounts and when I upgraded all 3 of mine I wasn't sure if the noises I was hearing where normal, I did it in steps like you did here, the transmission kind of sounds like a straightcut gear box..and when I did the passenger side I could hear the valvetrain noises.
425whp/395ftlbs - GTX3071R .82a/r- 20psi- 92 octane pump fuel
|The Following User Says Thank You to Tabasco69 For This Useful Post:|| |
|04-07-2013, 04:20 PM||#5|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
I love mine and now it sounds dual charged with a supercharger at those low speeds lol ;p I actually like the vibes cuz it makes me feel like im in a race car. no compromise!
2011 Black Mica MazdaSPEED3 // CS SRI // CS TIP // HKS SSQV-IV VTA w/ CP-E flange // CP-E FMIC // CP-E Triton CBE // CP-E Catted DP // CP-E HPFP // CP-E Stage 2 RMM // COBB AP With Lex Tunes // JBR SSP // JBR 88DM TMM //JBR 80DM PMM // JBR custom cylindrical shift knob // JBR SSB's // Rally Armor Mudflaps // ISC Coilovers and front end links // Denso ITV-22's // SPC Camber Arms // Michelin Pilot SuperSports // STRATIFIED LEX TUNED FTMFW
Future mods: Education
Mustang Dyno Results:
301WHP 334WTQ on 35% E85
282WHP 325WTQ on 92oct
|09-08-2015, 12:21 PM||#6|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
Highly recommend buying their motor mounts. Makes your car feel brand new giving it a great aggressive feel to it. I took out my old motor mount with only 60k miles and it was shot put JBR motor mount and the cars feels brand new and so responsive! It does cause a lot of vibration but only at first acceleration.
|09-27-2015, 09:30 PM||#7|
| || Not Ranked : 0 score |
Rides extremely comfortable for me though I've had a couple passengers say on a long drive that it was a little tiresome. Worth it though? Absolutely! The responsiveness feels amazing and the car is so strapped to the ground that any other little "inconvience" isn't worth not getting these.
When i opened up their extremely good packaging the quality and look of the pieces were awesome. Never once looked at them and thought "Weeell... this could be better".
I'm still on the k04 with a few small things done to the car, refer to sig. I bought them because the OEM ones decided to take a shit in my engine bay.
An in all, a great product worth getting.
Ye Olde Engine:
Cobb Accessport, Autotech Internals, Cobb SRI, Corksport TIP
Pending a Tune:
CP-E TMIC, ATP Catless Downpipe
H&R Springs, Koni Yellows, Hotchkis Front and Rear Swaybars, Corksport Front and rear Endlinks, Whiteline front Control Arm Bushings
|The Following User Says Thank You to chrono996 For This Useful Post:|| |
|09-28-2015, 10:14 AM||#8|
Approved MSF Vendor
| Not Ranked : 0 score |
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f337/jbr-motor-mounts-107059/
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