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 Old 08-01-2008, 04:18 PM   #1
 
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Default N2MB Racing MS6 WOT Box Review » Installation

 
Table of Contents
1 - N2MB Racing MS6 WOT Box Review
2 - Installation
3 - Usage
4 - Programming Charts / ECU harness pinouts
5 - Conclusion



WOT Box Installation Instructions – Mazdaspeed 6



Installation Instructions
NOTE: If you have a CDI (capacitive discharge ignition system) please contact us at support@n2mb.com for additional instructions. Damage to your WOT Box can occur if the installation is not completed correctly!

Please refer to the attached wiring diagrams to aid in identifying the terminals mentioned in these instructions. If you need help with the installation, please email support@n2mb.com.

Tools needed:
wire cutters/strippers
crimping tool or pliers
soldering iron
solder
ratchet/extension
8mm, 10mm and 12mm sockets
Heat gun or Lighter
flashlight
drill w/ 3/4" bit

1: Pop the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on your battery using an 8mm socket and ratchet. Secure the harness safely away from the battery terminal.

2: Locate the 18 AWG BLACK, GREEN, BLUE and YELLOW wires from the WOT Box. Cut them to about 3’. You will not need all of the wire provided. Leave the RED / BLACK wire at its full length for now. It will be cut down later.

3: Slide the driver's seat all the way back, or remove it referring to a workshop manual for instructions. Lay down on the floorboard under the dash, looking up behind the dash. On your right-hand side (closest to the driver's side door), you will find the ECU. As you lay there, you will notice there are four connectors plugged into the ECU. We will be working with the connectors 1, 2, and 3 (the three closest to the passenger's side). They are labeled from left to right (passenger's side to driver's side)

4: On the first connector, locate the 1H WHITE / GREEN Clutch Pedal Position Switch wire and carefully strip back some of its insulation. See the attached ECU pinout diagrams for more information. Be sure not to break the wire. Connect the 18 AWG GREEN wire from the WOT Box to the 1H WHITE / GREEN Clutch Pedal Position Switch wire. Solder the connection and cover with electrical tape. Be careful not to solder over your head and always wear safety glasses while soldering!



5: On the second connector, locate the 2C GREEN Crankshaft Position sensor wire and carefully strip back some of its insulation. Be sure not to break the wire. Connect the 18 AWG YELLOW wire from the WOT Box to the 2C GREEN Crankshaft Position sensor wire. Solder the connection and cover with electrical tape.

6: On the third connector, locate the 3D WHITE Accelerator Pedal Position wire and carefully strip back some of its insulation. Be sure not to break the wire. Connect the 18 AWG BLUE wire from the WOT Box to the 3D WHITE Accelerator Pedal Position sensor wire. Solder the connection and cover with electrical tape.



7: Locate the primary grommet in the firewall, shown below.



You will have to route the 16 AWG RED / BLACK double-wire through that grommet. Using a coat hanger or other object, poke a hole in the grommet. Be careful not to damage the wiring harness that is already there. Tape the 16 AWG RED / BLACK wire to the coat hanger and use it to pull the wire through the grommet.

8: Now, back in the engine bay, remove the top mount intercooler shroud using the 10mm socket. Next to the intercooler, where the shroud's 'flap' was at, you will see a grey and a black connector shown below.



We are interested in the black one. Disconnect the connector, and pull the driver's side portion under all the evap components to better access the harness. On the bottom side of the clip, there is a BLACK/WHITE/GREY SPOTTED wire that corresponds to a GREEN wire on the other connector. This is the ignition power wire. Cut that wire and strip back each end about 5/8".




Route the 16 AWG RED / BLACK double-wire to this location. Split apart about 6" of the 16 AWG RED / BLACK wire from the WOT Box. Strip the ends of the wire and slide two pieces of provided heat shrink tubing over the wires.



Connect the 16 AWG RED wire to the side of the BLACK/WHITE/GREY SPOTTED wire that is going away from the connector. Connect the 16 AWG BLACK wire to the side of the BLACK/WHITE/GREY SPOTTED wire that is going towards the connector as shown. Solder the connection and use the provided heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. Tape up the harness and reconnect the connector.



9: Back in the passenger compartment; remove the whole interior panel covering the interior fuse box (not just the insert). Looking at the lower portion, you will see a bolt that holds the bracket to the frame (the fuzzy one behind the looms in the pic below).



We will be using this as the grounding location. Using the provided ring terminal, attach the 18 AWG BLACK wire from the WOT Box to this ground connection. You can cut the black wire to about 18", but be sure to leave enough wire so that the harness will have enough slack to make the WOT Box accessible in the knee compartment once reinstalled. Be sure to crimp the ring terminal connection solidly and solder if possible. Use the 12mm socket to remove the bolt, and replace with the terminal connector in place.

9: Next, you will need to drill a 3/4" hole in the right/back of the knee compartment pocket (the moving peice). Don't worry, it will be out of sight. Run the WOT Box wiring harness connector through this hole, into the compartment.



Connect the WOT Box to the connector.



Reconnect the ground terminal on the battery.
Before taping everything up, key the car "ON" to ensure everything is working properly.



Once you verify proper operation, tape up all connections, bundle all associated wires, and clean up any messes.
Troubleshooting - Testing the WOT Box
1. Key on the car but do not start the engine. Quickly press the gas pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box start to rapidly blink. If it does not, check your APP sensor signal connection.
2. Next, with the gas pedal still depressed, press the clutch pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box briefly go out, and then come back on solid for one second and then finally resume blinking rapidly. If you do not see this, check your Clutch Pedal Position Switch signal connection.
3. Next, start the engine. Quickly press the gas pedal to the floor and immediately step on the clutch. You should hear the engine start to rev up, stumble for a short period while the ignition is cut, then return back on and continue rev'ing. Remove your foot from the gas before you hit the rev limiter. The 2-step will not engage if the gas is depressed before the clutch. This is normal. If the engine does not stumble or pause when the LED turns out, then check the red/black paired wire. Verify that the RED and BLACK 16 AWG are wired facing the proper way. If they are reversed, the ignition cut will not work.
4. Lastly, test the 2-Step. Press the clutch pedal down and then quickly press the gas pedal all the way down. The gas pedal must be floored for the 2-step to engage. The engine should rev up to the desired RPM and hold. If it does not, be sure to remove your foot from the gas before you hit the rev limiter. If the 2-step does not work, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor connection.

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Last edited by ATE BALLER; 08-02-2008 at 06:26 AM.
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