CP-E Rear Engine Mount: Review

[Breakdown81]

1 - CP-E Rear Engine Mount: Review

Thats right kids! It's time for another performance part review and handy dandy installation guide! If you're not excited by now, you probably should go to another thread because it's really not going to get any better. Now, on with the extravaganza.

As many of you all know one of the earliest sources of frustration with the mazdaspeed3 was that many people experienced a failure of the stock rear engine mount. Though the possible causes for the failure were many, the inescapable conclusion was that engine mounts should not be prone to failure. Also if this one reason was not enough, the design of the stock rear mount allowed for a large amount of engine play under load. Which translates directly into a certain amount of power not making it to the wheels, which would make many a performance hound chew their fingertips off. Thus, sensing the opportunity to make a few dollars off of enthusiasts everywhere; several companies began to develop replacement options for the rear mounts. Which brings us to CP-E.

A small group of performance nuts dedicated to making your driving experience better through technology. CP-E or Custom Performance Engineering, designed, prototyped and developed a new and improved rear engine mount.

As lifted from their website:
"Mazda SPEED3 Engine Mount
Custom Performance Engineering is very proud to release the first aftermarket EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber engine mount for the MazdaSPEED3! CNC machined from a single piece of billet 6061-series aluminum; this mount is not only totally indestructible, but it also transmits far less NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) into the cabin than comparable mounts.

Our mount is unique compared to our competitors mounts both in form and in function. We use rubber for the bushing as opposed to urethane simply because it is better suited for this application. Rubber withstands engine heat much better then urethane, and it will not deform or crack over time the way urethane can. We were also able to incorporate a unique method of holding the mount in the vehicle. Instead of placing all of the force on the center bushing pin, the load is distributed throughout the bushing. This increases the effective stiffness of the bushing under engine loads, and the 50-durometer bushing absorbs annoying vibrations. Now you can combine the stiffness of a race mount with the comfort of a stock unit!"

It was a triumphant moment, it was new, it was hefty, it was......BOFFO.

Problems arose concerning the rubber pour as it was found that achieving the specified 50 durometer stiffness rating was not being done consistently. At this point CP-E stopped selling the mount and sent it back to be re-developed. Now, in the waning months of 2008 the mount is back, with a higher 60 durometer rating. It can be purchased through select vendors on the web, however stock may be short as many people have been on waiting lists for many months to get this mount. But enough of that.

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[yang_jackson]

excellent instuctions. best i have seen for this product so far. how are you liking the rear mount now? was there a settling in period? have you been able to compare the feel w/any other after market rear mounts? thanks for your time.

[ToledoSpeed3]

Thanks again for the good write-up. I used the rhino ramps and all went well. It would have been nice to do it on a lift for better clearance...probably would have made this a 25 minute job instead of a 45 minute job. Rhino ramps don't give much room to move around under there. I groaned and bitched a little bit while trying to get into position to pry and get the aluminum engine bracket bolts lined up.

First impressions are good with the 60 duro mount. The car feels much more solid without the engine moving around so much. Now it doesn't feel like it's going to break under hard acceleration. Shifting performance has been improved, even when just cruising around. As you reported, vibrations are minimal even without break-in and are most noticeable at startup and with the A/C on.

I agree, CP-E did a nice job with this mount!

[xandrake]

I installed mine today as well. A breaker bar is necessary in my case (over one year old car in cold weather area) to get the bolts out. After I got the breaker bar the total time of the install was about 25 mins. Easy as cake.

Also, I got a small block of wood and a 2 ton jack to support the tranny during the install. It made the holes line back up perfectly during install of the CP-e part.

[ToledoSpeed3]

Originally Posted by xandrake I installed mine today as well. A breaker bar is necessary in my case (over one year old car in cold weather area) to get the bolts out. After I got the breaker bar the total time of the install was about 25 mins. Easy as cake. Also, I got a small block of wood and a 2 ton jack to support the tranny during the install. It made the holes line back up perfectly during install of the CP-e part.

Nice. How do you like it? Did you get the 60 duro or 75? I am curious to how much different the vibes are. I am happy that I chose the 60 at this point as I wouldn't want any more vibes that I have right now with the A/C on. Noticeable, but not annoying. We'll wait and see how it is after a bit of driving.

I used my 1/2" drive breaker bar out of habit, but probaboy wound't of needed it. I also used a jack to support the tranny like the CP-E instructions suggested. I adjusted the jack to help with the line up of those 3 holes and it did help, but I still had to pry it in 2mm or so like in the OP instructions to get the bolts started right. The up and down of the jack didn't get me there all the way.

[paradigmshift]

Thanks!

So just one bolt should have locktite applied to it? how about the bolt that comes with the cp-e mount?

[ToledoSpeed3]

Originally Posted by paradigmshift Thanks! So just one bolt should have locktite applied to it? how about the bolt that comes with the cp-e mount?

I used it on 4 of the 5 bolts (1 inverted one mentioned by the OP + 3 that hold the aluminum mount on the engine). The bolt that cp-e ships comes with a lock washer. It's also good to go back after a little while and check to make sure that any of 5 bolts aren't vibrating loose like it mentions in the cp-e instructions.

[kyoo]

will this stop the engine from falling out?

what?

[MPS83]

Very good mount

[Night Wolf]

Great write up. I'm planning to get this one for my Speed 3. I have a question tho, what is the difference between 60 and 75 duro?

[mtxandy]

Originally Posted by donightwolfdo Great write up. I'm planning to get this one for my Speed 3. I have a question tho, what is the difference between 60 and 75 duro?

60 is the softer of the two. Less vibes with the 60 but more motor movement than with the 75.

[Night Wolf]

Originally Posted by mtxandy 60 is the softer of the two. Less vibes with the 60 but more motor movement than with the 75.

Thanks for the clarification.

[Vinnie]

does anyone know how this compares to the su one piece mount?

[skeeter149]

sat in breakdowns car and man i almost forgot he has a rmm. good job cp-e on making a mount that does its job but doesnt shake the shite out of you like a yahoo.

[byau]

i just used this guide today and its AWESOME. parts of the cp-e instructions were unclear so this made it a smooth install. thanks!!

[prspect]

Walkthrough helped with a painless install

[JS + MS3]

So, I'm going to install this CPE RMM on my car right now.

But I don't have any jackstands or anything that could be put under the transmission.. I only have 1 regular jack in the back of the trunk..

Can I use the jacks in my parents cars? Then, I will have total 3 scissors jacks.

Let me know asap guys! Thanks!

[speed_freak]

dude with ur next set of planned mods just go get a good floor jack and stands... makes like so much easier not to mention safer

[JS + MS3]

^ Yeah, that's my plan.

Anyway, I tried to install the mount just now. Everything's fully done except for this one bolt out of three on the right side. its the left top one, which would not go in more.. right now 3/4 of it is tightened in, but no more.. I tried everything but it's just not going in anymore. Everything else is set and done..

I tried to take off everything and tried to screw in the bolt just to see if it screws in fully, but surprisingly it didn't go in after 3/4. What does that mean?? before i did this, i thought it was the off lining that's stopping the bolt from going in fully, but i guess not..

Any advice please?

[G Sp33dy]

thanks so much for the how to. Just installed the RMM dogbone from Protege garage.com and it was an easy install. Love the new feel of the car. FYI i got the "race" option, and the vibes are not bad at all after about 2 days of driving. Wheel hop still exists a little but majorly reduced.

[CheezIt]

sucks about the price raise on these..

[mroclimbr]

Don't worry about the price increase. Our friend JBarone is making a rmm that will be out this spring. I'm sure his price will be more inline with reality and his quality is never compromised.

I might even throw away my cpe rmm and put the JBarone one in out of spite.

[jbarone]

mroclimbr,
Your statement is very accurate accept it will be out before spring!

Thanks,
Jamie

[gtlaw]

Originally Posted by jbarone mroclimbr, Your statement is very accurate accept it will be out before spring! Thanks, Jamie

I would like to see a full set of 3 at a price a little lower than $600

[TRRR80]

just installed my 75 duro today and wow i should have done this as my first mod like everyone else has mentioned. there's some vibes yes but i like it and they aren't bad at all. it makes the car feel real sporty and launching the car is like a rocket from a stand still. if you're gonna get a motor mount i'd highly recommend the 75! go big or go home!

[Amazon]

My CP-E rmm is alright, but I think I'll go back to TRZ. I'd get the CP-E tranny mount, but I think I can get a rmm, tranny mount, AND passenger mount for the price of one CP-E mount

[Ponypetro]

hi guys!

just mounted the 60 duro rmm to the car.

i am some confused cause i´ve read in this howto to tighten all bolts by a torque of 70 ft/lbs. i´ve done 90 ft/lbs as written in the cp-e installation manual. why did u write 70 ft/lbs here.???!

at idle feel as good as no added vibration to the car. only in lower rpm´s (below 1500) i can feel some vibration. will this disappear within some time after a few miles?

kindly regards

[Grumpyjap]

It will get less, but not completely go away

[Ponypetro]

thank u and what about the torque???!!!!

[Crarrs]

Go by what's in their instructions. This review is three years old. New info>old info.

[zpele]

I'm retarded. Below is a family guy clip for your enjoyment:

Family Guy - Im a Tumor HURRY BEFORE YOUTUBE DELETES! - YouTube

Family Guy - Im a Tumor HURRY BEFORE YOUTUBE DELETES! - YouTube

[Fi2ost]

Just did this install awesome guide much thanks!

[tdjach]

great walk-through, cant wait to get back to the states and install