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 Old 08-13-2018, 12:30 PM   #81
 
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i wish you it would work that time but i'm surprise you didn't get the head surfaced for peace of mind.
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 Old 10-16-2018, 05:20 PM   #82
 
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Cleaning surfaces off without decking them is ok with low-performance/budget composite gaskets but not MLS, hope it works
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 Old 10-16-2018, 06:48 PM   #83
 
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Alright well I'm sure some of you will be pleased to hear this. Recently I haven't had success with this motor and I've found out that simply put, it isn't going to run. So I took about a month off of working on the boat anchor and decided on my next step. I've been lurking and reading up on all kinds of different builds and anything else you can think of and I came up with my solution.

Recently I received a raise at work as well as some birthday money that some relatives gave me so money now isn't as big of a deal. Also my dad gave me a loan and this time I've got multiple thousands of dollars to go out this project correctly. My first step was finding a block, I got one from salvage performance parts for $350. Next was finding a reputable machine shop to help me out with the machining of this new to me block, found one that's specifically for high performance jdm motors. Next was just getting all the random parts like friction washers, head studs, main studs, crank bolt, a new set of valves, pistons, rods, main and rod bearings, and some other random items. I tore down my old block to find what was usable and what isn't and now I'm working my way towards building a motor the correct way and hopefully it'll go smoothly and this will be a good way to finish this thread.

I'm going to take the block to the machine shop on Friday to see if I can have it bored out .20 over or if I need to get it sleeved. Yes I know that sleeving is expensive and labor intensive as well as easy to mess up but that's why those guys get paid the big bucks to do that kind of work. I'll be ordering a cometic head gasket, arp main and head studs, a new crank, crank bolt, and main bearings tomorrow morning and I'll go from there. I'll probably get around to getting this motor together close to thanksgiving so I'll update as I go, for now I have some picture of the tear down process of the old motor.


And for anyone that wonders why I went with a new block, it's because I don't want to deal with the kind of freakin garbage remanufactured stuff I was working with and I wanted an oem block. So here we go for a final round of motor building.


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 Old 10-16-2018, 10:24 PM   #84
 
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Hint: Ecoboost 2.3 Mustang crank
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
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 Old 10-17-2018, 06:40 AM   #85
 
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I have to admit i learned it the same way as you with another platform but the saying: Do it well the first time or do it twice is unfortunately right very often.

I don't know if your old engine was completely crap and if you really need a new crank but i understand the wish to start over with a whole new engine. IMO sleeving a bloc unless you wanna go big bore/ HP record, is a waste of money, get your blocs measured and if none are good for 88mm pistons, i would try to source a good used third one instead. You just need a bloc that didn't wreck a rod that wasn't bored yet to 88mm and this usually leave enough material to be safely bored over to refresh.
Then, the specialist must machine both surface for linearity, the head and bloc and once this is done, it would seal perfectly without expensive gasket or studs.
BTW: OEM head bolts > basic ARP head studs. Unless you get it drilled to use larger ones...
Oem metal gasket that came with a Mazda gasket kit is good enough to seal for at least 30psi and you can get head and bloc milled a little bit before needing thicker gasket. It just rise a bit the compression ratio but with 9.5:1 pistons it isn't bad to get up to 9.6-9.8...

Another tip: Throw away your red silicone tube, you need a tube of ''Right stuff'' for pan and cover but use new gaskets everywhere else.

Install a new thermostat and a new timing chain if you didn't do it already.

Read the Mazda manual shop to make sure to follow the required steps and advices.
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
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...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 10-26-2018, 10:48 AM   #86
 
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Hey all. So I've been slowly making progress on getting parts in. One thing I had a question about is the Toyota injector seals. I bought a set and they weren't exactly what I was expecting but I just wanted to make sure I bought the right part. I'll attach a picture to get a second opinion and if they aren't the right part then oh well, they were $8


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 Old 10-26-2018, 11:09 AM   #87
 
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They look correct to me, but I wouldn't use them if you're pushing beyond low 300's wtq.
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CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
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1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 10-26-2018, 11:39 AM   #88
 
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I'll be looking to hit about 290-300 so that'll be perfect


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 Old 10-26-2018, 11:44 AM   #89
 
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Although, I'm only going off speculation. I've been running toyota seals for a while now. But I'm reaching a knock limit far sooner than what is typical. I suspect injector seals leaking.
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CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
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 Old 10-26-2018, 12:08 PM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Although, I'm only going off speculation. I've been running toyota seals for a while now. But I'm reaching a knock limit far sooner than what is typical. I suspect injector seals leaking.

I will only ever use Corksport injector seals. They are significantly better than any other option and they don’t leak. They may be a touch on the pricy side in comparison, but I sure as shit am not a fan of taking my IM, fuel rail, and all that other crap off just to check and service my injector seals. I want to put them sons of bitches in and call it a day, with the utmost of confidence I won’t have to do that again. My time alone is worth more than those seals cost.


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 Old 10-26-2018, 12:20 PM   #91
 
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Like I said, $8. And I'm no where near close to being finished with my build. Most likely I'll get corksport seals just because I've heard such good things about them. I'm not looking for anything too crazy right now so if I can get 280-300ish hp then I'll be happy for now


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 Old 10-26-2018, 12:29 PM   #92
 
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I actually had CS seals when I did my build, but decided not to use them since the Toyota seals seemed to be holding up. But turning up the power with the forged build hasn't really resulted in actual gains. I'm pulling so much timing due to "KR" that whp isn't going up with boost.

BTW, a local to me had a CS seal leak. They replaced it. Documentation helped in this case. He had pictures of the injector bore prior to install to show how clean it was and had pictures/video showing the obvious leaky seal.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 10-26-2018, 08:22 PM   #93
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
I actually had CS seals when I did my build, but decided not to use them since the Toyota seals seemed to be holding up. But turning up the power with the forged build hasn't really resulted in actual gains. I'm pulling so much timing due to "KR" that whp isn't going up with boost.

BTW, a local to me had a CS seal leak. They replaced it. Documentation helped in this case. He had pictures of the injector bore prior to install to show how clean it was and had pictures/video showing the obvious leaky seal.

There’s torque specs for the fuel rail bolts. Any seals are likely to leak if you don’t follow those. Not saying that is the case for your local, but one of the many reasons the CS seals are better is they’re a lot less likely to fail... even if you do.


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 Old 11-03-2018, 07:03 AM   #94
 
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Hey guys, so just dropped the block and the darton sleeves off at a machine shop yesterday to get it machined and made all pretty, hopefully that'll be done in two weeks so it's a waiting game now. In other news I've been looking to swap out my xenon hid headlight housings for regular halogen housings because I'm going to run rally lights so I don't plan on using the standard headlights. If anyone is interested in trading plus some cash, pm me and we can work something out. They still work and they're in great shape, just needs a good polish and it'll be ready to go.




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 Old 11-07-2018, 06:52 AM   #95
 
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Not sure if a base speed can install it and get the wiring for the motorized leveling...

Mine was at least missing the button for it and there was no apparent wires behind because i used the space for my methanol buttons and leds
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 11-07-2018, 07:03 AM   #96
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Not sure if a base speed can install it and get the wiring for the motorized leveling...

Mine was at least missing the button for it and there was no apparent wires behind because i used the space for my methanol buttons and leds


It doesn't have motorized leveling, it has the manual dials the adjust it, and the only thing you would need is to get the h7 connector and solder it into the wiring harness to connect it


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 Old 11-20-2018, 08:22 AM   #97
 
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Alrighty here we go, machine shop called me today to tell me that my block has been sleeved and it's ready to go, also told me the head is cracked and warped so it's not repairable so I'll be needing to buy a new head, total cost for the block was $300 shipped, sleeves were $322 shipped, and tub washing then machining was $500. Not too bad considering now I'll have a block that's capable of very high horsepower while giving me the piece of mind that it's got liners that are thicker than the stock liners. I'll be searching for a good used head minus the cams and valve train so if anyone sees this post and you have a spare head that isn't in too bad of shape that you're willing to sell, let me know! Over the few days I took off for thanksgiving I'll be soda blasting my oil pan, cam cover, timing cover and wheels. The engine parts will be painted blue and the wheels will be painted a gunmetal bronze and hopefully everything will come out looking pretty so I can post nice pictures on here, then assembly of the short block begins!


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 Old 11-20-2018, 02:37 PM   #98
 
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If you can have the set of old shim with the empty head, you may need few to adjust all your clearances while mixing parts.
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 Old 11-20-2018, 03:01 PM   #99
 
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During my rebuild, I had shims/buckets from 3 different heads. I still had to borrow a few from a local and buy a few new ones from Mazda to get my clearances in spec.
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 Old 01-08-2019, 06:37 AM   #100
 
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Default My 08' rebuild thread

A
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 Old 09-11-2019, 10:32 PM   #101
 
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hey man, i was reading thru this thread again, did you ever get the motor rebuilt? any progress on this project?
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 Old 10-09-2019, 12:45 PM   #102
 
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I'm curious to know how it turned out as well.
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