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 Old 08-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #1
 
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Default tr8 core on pu

looking to upgrade the core from my lame ass cx racing kit. i know some people have done it. how much cutting on the stock crash bar is required to make it fit? id rather not replace the crash bar.
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 Old 08-17-2012, 04:29 PM   #2
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why not? The ones included in the UR and corksports kits are nice, and almost more "beefy" then the stock one. Especially when it comes to cutting the stock one, rendering it useless.
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 Old 08-21-2012, 05:08 PM   #3
 
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Build your own crash bar.....i did

I use a pretty big ic also.
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 Old 09-16-2012, 12:26 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by 865ms3 View Post
looking to upgrade the core from my lame ass cx racing kit. i know some people have done it. how much cutting on the stock crash bar is required to make it fit? id rather not replace the crash bar.
i just did this. i was able to do it with only cutting out a tiny bit. that steel is real tough tho it was a bitch. i'll take some pics tomorrow of it mounted. i prob could have cut a little more, as my undertray struggles to fit, i had to use zip ties instead of screws in a few places, but it still fits
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 Old 09-16-2012, 04:18 AM   #5
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Yes, you can buy a replacement crashbar, but they are in no way dot certified and legal in any way (neither is cutting the crashbar) and if you get into an accident and anyone is hurt, your ass is sued and possibly in jail. Just sayin
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 Old 09-16-2012, 09:37 PM   #6
 
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holy big pics lol. anyways i could have cut a tiny bit more, its a tight fit with the undertray but it still fits so w/e


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 Old 09-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #7
 
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Is it needed to put the under tray back on. Does it give any benefit to having it other then maybe keeping the cleaner?
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 Old 09-16-2012, 09:43 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Blackedout1978 View Post
Is it needed to put the under tray back on. Does it give any benefit to having it other then maybe keeping the cleaner?
helps direct airflow thru the engine bay. try to keep it on. plus shit stays cleaner
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 Old 09-17-2012, 05:07 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by snailD View Post
holy big pics lol. anyways i could have cut a tiny bit more, its a tight fit with the undertray but it still fits so w/e
could you make the pictures a little bigger??? i cant really see it.

kinda of what i expected would have to be cut. ive got a while to make a decision. no need for it on the k04 with e85. but when the turbo gets bigger so will the core. thanks again!
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 Old 09-17-2012, 05:09 AM   #10
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I just did mine. Godspeed 10" core. Ill post pics.
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 Old 09-17-2012, 05:18 AM   #11
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My dad is a welder/mechanic by profession. I cut out the section for it to fit with a plasma cutter(took 2 minutes) Then my dad cut out a steel plate to the shape of what was cut out and welded it in place to re enforce it. So now its just as strong ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347884235.249094.jpg
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 Old 09-17-2012, 05:36 AM   #12
 
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I did mine about 2 weeks ago.. i just had a notch cut out of the inside for the top of the core to slide into.. i thought about what payne did there in the pic. but i wanted to keep and strong as can be.. so took a little notch from it, and had the welds redone in the inner beams to keep the integrity as much as possible
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 Old 09-23-2012, 09:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Payne Racing 67 View Post
My dad is a welder/mechanic by profession. I cut out the section for it to fit with a plasma cutter(took 2 minutes) Then my dad cut out a steel plate to the shape of what was cut out and welded it in place to re enforce it. So now its just as strong Attachment 73925
I don't doubt that this solution is just as strong as stock if not stronger, I would just worry about insurance. God forbid you crash, I tend to think your insurance company would weasel out of paying up because of this type of modification.
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 Old 09-24-2012, 04:56 AM   #14
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Idk...ive been in an accident before where i was at fault, in my mustang which was super charged. Had a massive heat exchanger and insurance didnt even come look at the car


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 Old 02-23-2013, 10:14 PM   #15
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Sorry for the thread revival, but I have a Pu and I have a CX FMIC kit on the way. I've heard that the cores aren't so good on them, so I'm trying to decide between a Treadstone TR6 and TR8. I think the 6 will flow fine for my E40 running K04. But an 8 would mean I'll be better set for a BNR or BT in the future. I'm worried about fitment, though. Wouldn't the 8C be a viable option? With the center mounts, it shouldn't require any trimming, right? Of course, I'll need to get two 2.5-3.0" couplers.

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 Old 02-26-2013, 12:40 PM   #16
 
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Damn, I'm gonna have to remove my entire crash bar after seeing this. I just ordered a tr10 core for my pu!
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 Old 02-26-2013, 09:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by bryces_speed3 View Post
Damn, I'm gonna have to remove my entire crash bar after seeing this. I just ordered a tr10 core for my pu!
Why not TR8, easily good for 500, or you could always do the TR8L, good for 575. That should easily cover any mod plans you have, right?
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 Old 02-26-2013, 09:57 PM   #18
 
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1) The I got a just a piping kit from cobb, so I had to find a core that was within overall length specs of there's the piping would fit lol.


2) TR8 in my long run goals won't be enough. My car only has 5k miles on it and already piecing a forged motor, and going to go with the HTP T3 manifold once it's released with a precision Billet 6266, port injection and either a cp-e Intake manifold or the JMF. Just really depends. This is going to be a long process though, I want to take my time and do this right and not have to worry about anything later.

If you look in my sig, you can see why I'd want more power then what a stock pu block will take maxed out on a BT
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92' Civic hatch. Built k20, GE Sleeved, Prayoonto Stg 2 Cams, Sumped fuel tank w/dual bosch 044's inline, precision 6768, Treadstone 1000hp vertical flow IC!(racecar) 991/578 VP Q16. SOLDDD!Best 1/4 9.21@172
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 Old 02-26-2013, 10:51 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by bryces_speed3 View Post
1) The I got a just a piping kit from cobb, so I had to find a core that was within overall length specs of there's the piping would fit lol.


2) TR8 in my long run goals won't be enough. My car only has 5k miles on it and already piecing a forged motor, and going to go with the HTP T3 manifold once it's released with a precision Billet 6266, port injection and either a cp-e Intake manifold or the JMF. Just really depends. This is going to be a long process though, I want to take my time and do this right and not have to worry about anything later.

If you look in my sig, you can see why I'd want more power then what a stock pu block will take maxed out on a BT
I can see that you really want to max things out, but couldn't a TR8 be an intermediate step? You could always sell it and upgrade later--they hold good value. Then again, I can definitely appreciate future-proof modding...
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 Old 02-27-2013, 05:27 AM   #20
 
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Tr8 Core is a great start. depends how he is wanting to push it. Tr10 Yes you will no linger have the crash bar. Not sure if Ulitmate Racing Crash bar would fit with it to give you some kind of stability for your core, i would check it out.

The Tr8 works with the Pu with minor modfications to the crash bar. I had to take a 2 inch section out of it to make it fit perfect. personally if i could do it again i would go to the UR Crash bar just cause when i had to go to dealer for warranty work they saw the cut out and new i was modified even though i took in stock. .02 cents.

There are guys running the Tr10 just as you said no crash bar or possibly the UR crash bar, or just fab your own.
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 Old 02-27-2013, 08:58 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Redline143 View Post
I can see that you really want to max things out, but couldn't a TR8 be an intermediate step? You could always sell it and upgrade later--they hold good value. Then again, I can definitely appreciate future-proof modding...
Yeah, future proof modding is the plan right now. I've made that mistake in my previous builds on other cars, it does add up in the long run and all that extra time that you have to spend re doing things.

Originally Posted by silentwolf8 View Post
Tr8 Core is a great start. depends how he is wanting to push it. Tr10 Yes you will no linger have the crash bar. Not sure if Ulitmate Racing Crash bar would fit with it to give you some kind of stability for your core, i would check it out.

The Tr8 works with the Pu with minor modfications to the crash bar. I had to take a 2 inch section out of it to make it fit perfect. personally if i could do it again i would go to the UR Crash bar just cause when i had to go to dealer for warranty work they saw the cut out and new i was modified even though i took in stock. .02 cents.

There are guys running the Tr10 just as you said no crash bar or possibly the UR crash bar, or just fab your own.

Yeah, luckily my moms bf is a general contractor and dabbles in metal fab with his business, so the plan right now is to fab up my own
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2013' MS3 K04 - 368/390 DYNO DYNAMICS 5gal E85 Mix


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92' Civic hatch. Built k20, GE Sleeved, Prayoonto Stg 2 Cams, Sumped fuel tank w/dual bosch 044's inline, precision 6768, Treadstone 1000hp vertical flow IC!(racecar) 991/578 VP Q16. SOLDDD!Best 1/4 9.21@172
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 Old 02-27-2013, 09:18 AM   #22
 
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I'm running a TR10 with a modified stock crashbar.
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 Old 02-27-2013, 09:19 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 View Post
I'm running a TR10 with a modified stock crashbar.
Do you have any picture from the install???
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GTX3076 Freektuned

GTX3076: 431/391 1.01 VD 3/9 E85 Mix

2013' MS3 K04 - 368/390 DYNO DYNAMICS 5gal E85 Mix


06' STI, 2.7ltr cosworth- 626/442 E85 daily. SOLDD! Best 1/4 10.66@135
92' Civic hatch. Built k20, GE Sleeved, Prayoonto Stg 2 Cams, Sumped fuel tank w/dual bosch 044's inline, precision 6768, Treadstone 1000hp vertical flow IC!(racecar) 991/578 VP Q16. SOLDDD!Best 1/4 9.21@172
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 Old 02-27-2013, 09:25 AM   #24
 
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I can't upload photos off my phone to the site. PM me your email and I will send them to you.
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 Old 02-27-2013, 09:53 AM   #25
 
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Uploading some pics for Celestspeed3;
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20130227_123525.jpg (2.28 MB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg 20130227_123550.jpg (2.20 MB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg 20130227_123600.jpg (2.50 MB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 20130227_123607.jpg (2.96 MB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg 20130227_123621.jpg (2.72 MB, 36 views)
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GTX3076 Freektuned

GTX3076: 431/391 1.01 VD 3/9 E85 Mix

2013' MS3 K04 - 368/390 DYNO DYNAMICS 5gal E85 Mix


06' STI, 2.7ltr cosworth- 626/442 E85 daily. SOLDD! Best 1/4 10.66@135
92' Civic hatch. Built k20, GE Sleeved, Prayoonto Stg 2 Cams, Sumped fuel tank w/dual bosch 044's inline, precision 6768, Treadstone 1000hp vertical flow IC!(racecar) 991/578 VP Q16. SOLDDD!Best 1/4 9.21@172
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 Old 02-27-2013, 05:12 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by bryces_speed3 View Post
Uploading some pics for Celestspeed3;
Wow, that this is *for real*! Race car!!!

Did you notice your coolant temps go up at all since it covers the whole front?
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 Old 02-28-2013, 05:47 AM   #27
 
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It seems to be the same as before, I didn't notice anything different with coolant temps.

If I did it could be from the fact that I can run more timing now and put more heat into the engine. At 20psi at redlinewith the K04 I see about 15F hotter than IAT in the summer. In the winter like now the sensor is usually stuck at the low limit unless I'm in traffic.

I also added in a proper tow loop just in case. I didn't want to deal with wasting time if I go off course.
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