Corksport Camber Plates

[ruthless013]

any follow up todd? were you able to measure max neg. camber gained? and any ill effects - like more noise, since you're trading hardened rubber for aluminum?

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Todd98SE No issues going back to stock the OEM tophat would mount up just as it did stock you'd just see more of it. Swaybar is a Racing Beat for the 2010 MZ3 2.5 and endlinks are Whiteline.

Thanks for taking the time to post pics of your install. How much camber are you able to get on stock springs?

I have been modifying the stock setup for a while and all I can get is -1.8 by elongating the shaft hole on the top hat and strut tower top hat holes. The problem is that the spring starts rubbing on the inner part of the spring tower. Any more neg camber than shown below and it rubbs. I even cut the top of the shaft on my FSDs thinking I would tuck them under the tower but couldn't get that far. Going lower 1" gets you about -0.4 degs of additional neg camber.
So in all I would argue that on any strut / spring combo, (I.e. not COs) the approx max neg camber one can get is -2.2 unless you get the LCA to push the knuckle out more.






and here is a failed attempt at increasing neg camber with top hats

[Todd98SE]

The reason I haven't posted further information is because I ran into the same situation as you Tomas. The spring runs into the wheel well limiting camber change. With the stock springs I was only able to get -1.4 degrees negative camber. Corksport's shop car was able to get a little more since it had the new Corksport lowering springs which made the control arm a bit more parallel to the ground and placed the lower balljoint as far out in it's arc as possible allowing a little more tilt to the strut shaft. They are working on some solutions to this problem but it looks like we are relatively limited in camber gain because of the stock chassis dimensions.

In addition since the stock struts already offset the spring away from the inside of the strut tower I dont believe coilovers will offer much benefit even with their smaller diameter springs. At this point I think we need to explore a longer lower control arm if we want to run more than around -2.0 degrees camber.

As for the camber plates, they have been squeak and problem free since the day I installed them. They are well built with high quality components and beautiful machining.

Below are some pics of the interference problem.

[Tomas]

Yeah, not sure I would drill the strut tower for that little additional camber.

With CO's I'd have to disagree. I think if the spring diameter was less, that with these camber plates you could get up to about -3.0 or so. I know people with Kmacs can go that far.

[Todd98SE]

Originally Posted by Tomas Yeah, not sure I would drill the strut tower for that little additional camber. With CO's I'd have to disagree. I think if the spring diameter was less, that with these camber plates you could get up to about -3.0 or so. I know people with Kmacs can go that far.

I did read a few different threads about people measuring more than -2 while using coilovers which is promising. From the pics it is hard to see how much closer a coilover can place the spring next to the strut for additional clearance. I just purchased one of the new aluminum lower control arms from the 2012 Focus ST to see if it is any longer than the OEM MS3 lower arm. If so it will be a cheap fix for this problem.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Todd98SE I did read a few different threads about people measuring more than -2 while using coilovers which is promising. From the pics it is hard to see how much closer a coilover can place the spring next to the strut for additional clearance. I just purchased one of the new aluminum lower control arms from the 2012 Focus ST to see if it is any longer than the OEM MS3 lower arm. If so it will be a cheap fix for this problem.

fuckin-a. With adjustable joints?
If they fit that'd be great. JBarone said he was going to start making them a few months ago but that never materialized.

Post up your results!

[alien_sporez]

Originally Posted by Todd98SE With the stock springs I was only able to get -1.4 degrees negative camber. In addition since the stock struts already offset the spring away from the inside of the strut tower I dont believe coilovers will offer much benefit even with their smaller diameter springs. At this point I think we need to explore a longer lower control arm if we want to run more than around -2.0 degrees camber.

Presuming that this is primarily for people who DD their cars and like to do the occasional track day, or canyon carve, is there really a need for more than -2.0 degrees camber?? I mean, if you're seriously tracking your car regularly, coilovers are an absolute necessity. If you're not, then you shouldn't need more than -2.0 degrees... right?

[Todd98SE]

Correct Alien, I don't know why anyone would want to run more than -2.0 on the street ever. For track use it all depends on the tire and the specifics of the track. Some tire like a lot of negative camber (old BFG R-1, Toyo RA-1) and some tracks like Streets of Willow or any autox would probably require more then -2.0 degrees. The problem with to much camber is the loss of ability to put down power earlier on the corner exit, so it really is a compromise either way.

[frivolous_rob]

Yes I secretly knew thered be more fail in this thread! Your cost effective part just failed. Corksport should have known. I'd demand refund if there advertisement says works with stock springs.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by Todd98SE I just purchased one of the new aluminum lower control arms from the 2012 Focus ST to see if it is any longer than the OEM MS3 lower arm. If so it will be a cheap fix for this problem.

Update?

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak Update?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...tml#post953551

[Todd98SE]

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak Update?

Corksport has revised the initial design that I have for those that don't want to cut their strut towers. The revised design would require you to drop the strut to adjust camber if you don't want to make the cut. If you do make the cut they are adjustable just like mine. This was done to satisfy both groups of customers. Also Corksport performed a FEA analysis of the strut tower cut and uncut to see if it was any weaker after cutting and it is not, insignificant change in material stress in that area after the cut.

They are working on pricing options for the camber plates only and a camber plates + lowering springs package. I would expect the official announcement of their release to be made in a few weeks at most if not sooner.

In other news the other 2012 Focus LCA arrived in the mail today. I will be installing them this weekend hopefully and will post revised numbers if they allow me to run any additional camber with the OEM springs.

[hnda etr]

Did we ever hear if CS is going to make these for the GenWon also?

[Nliiitend1]

I don't know why these wouldn't work on a Gen 1...

As far as I know there were no significant changes made to the top mounts/bushings for the struts.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by Todd98SE In other news the other 2012 Focus LCA arrived in the mail today. I will be installing them this weekend hopefully and will post revised numbers if they allow me to run any additional camber with the OEM springs.

Could you try to take a lot of pictures during the install/install attempt?

I know I could look this up pretty easily, but does anyone know if there were any changes to the LCAs between Gen 1 and Gen 2 MS3s? I keep forgetting Todd has a Gen 2...

[Todd98SE]

I think the camber plates and LCA's are completely interchangeable between Gen 1&2. In fact the Whiteline bushings are only listed for the Gen 1 years and I know they will fit the newer arms if that helps any.

There is another camber plate beta tester but I dont know if he has a gen 1 or 2. If he is following this thread maybe he can chime in.

EDIT: according to onlinemazdaparts the gen 1 and gen 2 control arms are different costs. I cant find a part number but i dont know if the price means they are somehow different or not.

[Manny]

updates?

[Todd98SE]

I haven't heard anything further from CS on these. I guess we just have to be patient.

[Hamilton69]

Originally Posted by letsfightrobbb You're all noobs. Cut springs ftw. Way more reliable than your crappy KW's and a lot cheaper. P.S. Why do you all care about your amazingly expensive coilovers? 1/2 of you noobs won't even be driving hard enough to actually utilize the coilovers to their maximum potential anyways...No one is auto-xing to the grocery store, cause that's what these cars are meant to be used for.

Shut the hell up

[frivolous_rob]

your so old^

[bigblazer87]

I just installed these on my '09 MS3 on Sunday, everything went very well, very nicely-made. Only thing I'm trying to pinpoint is a sort of clunking noise I'm getting over jarring bumps. Do camber plates tend to do that because of the lack of the factory rubber strut mounts? I've got them on top of H&R coilovers (all the way down) and everything is tight.

Currently maxed out with 18x9.5 +25 wheels...

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by bigblazer87 Do camber plates tend to do that because of the lack of the factory rubber strut mounts?

To an extent, yes.

[tigermack]

Ah, you had to bore out the strut tower hole, huh?

[bigblazer87]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 To an extent, yes.

Hmmm, cause that was really the only thing that was changed, and everything is tight. It's annoying but I guess I'll have to learn to live with it.

Originally Posted by tigermack Ah, you had to bore out the strut tower hole, huh?

Yup, used a 3-1/8" hole saw. Pretty thick metal you have to go through so it takes a little while, but no biggie. Fits perfectly so as long as you hold the drill straight everything goes smoothly. Painted the inside satin black and you can't really even tell it was modified.

[patABQ]

These look great. Let us know how they work and the adjustment range.

[mr.panec]

Yo...
I'm the other guy that was working with CS, along with Todd, on the design of the camber plates. I elected to not take the plates, as my initial request with CS was a 'no cut' install. I was able to achieve nearly the same camber with a very good alignment shop. I spoke with Rich and we discussed the plates and their development progress. I am of the school that Mazda has left all that metal in the strut tower for a reason. I autocross 1-2 times a month, and typically have 6-8 runs per event. I run Hoosier A 275's on stock rims with a 5mm spacer..I was very concerned about all of the additional stress that this setup was going to put on the suspension. All I envisioned was getting stress fractures, and being SOL with them. Rich informed me that he had developed a 'cut free' set up, but that it was fairly restrictive on camber settings. Rich and Corksport have been great throughout this venture, and they continue to keep in touch with me in regards to future developments.

Also...Gen1 & Gen2 have the exact same Mazda OEM part number 34-310 for the LCA, according to the spec diagrams listed on the Mazdaspeed Motorsports part program.

Keep the info flowing guys...nice installs on the plates that are out there. Everyone, some sharp rides out there!

Later!

[kritz]

Let me understand this correctly, 275's on 7.5"x 18" wheel?

[ruthless013]

since you are familiar with the mazdaspeed parts program, do you know if a mazdaspeed camber/caster plate from mazdaspeed exists? there was mention of it in an article about the imoto racing ms3 that recently won at laguna seca.

and what was necessary to get this negative camber on a stock setup?

[tigermack]

Originally Posted by kritz Let me understand this correctly, 275's on 7.5"x 18" wheel?

It's possible with Hoosiers.

[kritz]

You might want to check out this link.
tigermack

https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm

[daafisch]

A lot of people run massive hoosiers on narrow rims in autocross.

[kritz]

wouldn't you get a fuckload of sidewall flex?

[daafisch]

Not sure about the sidewalls on the A6's but I know people do it in Stock class. In this thread someone put 285's on a 7.5 inch wheel.

275/40R17 hossier A6 on a 17x8 wheel - Stock Classes

[tigermack]

Originally Posted by kritz You might want to check out this link. tigermack https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm

What about it?

[justint5387]

275s on 6 inch wide wheels had been done. R comp tires are not like street tires.

[xbox4414]

Originally Posted by Todd98SE I did read a few different threads about people measuring more than -2 while using coilovers which is promising. From the pics it is hard to see how much closer a coilover can place the spring next to the strut for additional clearance. I just purchased one of the new aluminum lower control arms from the 2012 Focus ST to see if it is any longer than the OEM MS3 lower arm. If so it will be a cheap fix for this problem.

Just went on the alignment rack with AMR Coilovers and without maxing out the camber plates and without adjusting the top bolts to push the coilovers furthest away from the wheel I measured -1.9 so pretty sure I can get above -2 easily.

[kritz]

I don't want to get this thread off track so starting another on the R comp tires on narrow wheels.

tigermack,daafisch,justint5387

[Manny]

back on topic, how much difference in camber restriction are we talking about with a no cut setup?

[grantmm]

Originally Posted by ruthless013 since you are familiar with the mazdaspeed parts program, do you know if a mazdaspeed camber/caster plate from mazdaspeed exists? there was mention of it in an article about the imoto racing ms3 that recently won at laguna seca. and what was necessary to get this negative camber on a stock setup?

Mazdaspeed camber plates do exist and they cost roughly $1200.

[ruthless013]

Originally Posted by grantmm Mazdaspeed camber plates do exist and they cost roughly $1200.

that's crazy - and i'd love to see them.

[grantmm]

Corksport camber plates: