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 Old 10-12-2015, 03:39 PM   #1
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Default Easy OEM Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

There's a few threads on doing this on a Gen1 but I didn't see anything specific to the Gen2.
This takes around an hour. I chose to use OEM bushings because they are cheap, plug and play and easy to source. If you have a front end clunk this is where I would start.
You will need:
OEM PN: B37F-34-156B (x2), these are about $14/ea (I paid in CAD)
1 jack,
2 jack stands,
Torque wrench and breaker bar,
17mm socket,
14 or 15mm wrench+ratchet (depending on your end links),
Wheel removal tools,
Some penetrating lube,
Grease.

Jack up the car, place on stands and remove the wheel.

Use penetrating oil as required:

Remove your endlink from the strut.

Remove the (2) 17mm bolts that secure the rear lower control arm bushing to the subframe and the oem bushing bracket.

Lift the end link up and let it rest on the spring like this:


Now you can pull the oem bushing out of the bracket/dust cover.

This was my old bushing. Didn't look too bad


Grease up the new bushing and stuff it back in underneath the bracket and make sure you aligned it properly.

Take the endlink off the spring and let the bracket rest above the LCA.

Take a jack and jack up on the bushing like this until you can feed the 17mm bolts through the holes and the bracket and tighten it back up. I torqued mine to 110ftlb.


Put the endlink back in the strut and you're ready for the other side.
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 Old 10-12-2015, 06:20 PM   #2
 
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Always good to have another walk through. Thanks!
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 Old 10-14-2015, 03:25 PM   #3
 
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Default

Nice write up spl, short and sweet. so glad this cured yer front end clunk, clunks from the front or rear are hella annoying..
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 Old 10-19-2015, 10:12 PM   #4
 
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Nice write up.
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 Old 11-16-2017, 03:31 PM   #5
 
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Default My GenOne Experience

For anyone with a GenOne,I just did this on my 2008 and went at it the same way SPL did except with a slight twist. I disconnected all three bolts front and back of the lower control arm and pushed it away from the subframe and just let it hang, leaving the ball joint connected. This gave me much better access, it's still a a small space to work in.

Using a 14 mm closed end wrench and a 4 lb. hand sledge I was able to break the bolts loose. Then I used a 14 mm swivel head ratchet wrench to get the bolts the rest of the way out, this is a must if you don't want be doing this all day.

Hope this motivates anybody putting this off like I did because I knew that access was going to be a bitch. Thanks to SPL for the insight in the write up, it wasn't that much of a pain in the ass. Only took me about 2.5 hrs.
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 Old 12-30-2017, 05:56 PM   #6
 
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Does anybody happen to know any remarkable difference between the oem bushings vs. jbr?
I bought oem ones but then was second thinking that maybe I should of bought the jbr ones but don't know if its all the same thing performance wise
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 Old 12-30-2017, 06:32 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by eliwwjd View Post
Does anybody happen to know any remarkable difference between the oem bushings vs. jbr?
I bought oem ones but then was second thinking that maybe I should of bought the jbr ones but don't know if its all the same thing performance wise
Hey good to know your still alive after the hurricane.
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 Old 12-30-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Hey good to know your still alive after the hurricane.
Thanks guy! we are still recovering from that dam hurricane Maria, that thing was a monster!
to be honest i do not want to ever in my entire life want to go through that again, Jesus that shit was scary as hell
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