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 Old 08-14-2019, 08:53 AM   #1
 
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Default Rear sway bar bushing replacement, end link removal needed???

Hey guys,
Going to replace my rear sway bar bushings. Do I need to remove the end link? Or can I just remove the sway bar brackets and replace the bushing?
Thanks!
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 Old 08-14-2019, 09:08 AM   #2
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Check the FSM.
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 Old 08-14-2019, 06:25 PM   #3
 
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 Old 08-14-2019, 06:34 PM   #4
 
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Factory Service Manual. Or google it. Pick your poison!
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 Old 08-14-2019, 07:41 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by spinfly View Post
Hey guys,
Going to replace my rear sway bar bushings. Do I need to remove the end link? Or can I just remove the sway bar brackets and replace the bushing?
Thanks!
It will probably have some preload, so it will be much easier to undo one end of one or both end links so it “relaxes”. You might have trouble going back together if you don’t. I’d replace the brackets and bushings with ones with zerk fittings that can be greased while at it.
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BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 08-22-2019, 12:57 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by MSMS3 View Post
It will probably have some preload, so it will be much easier to undo one end of one or both end links so it “relaxes”. You might have trouble going back together if you don’t. I’d replace the brackets and bushings with ones with zerk fittings that can be greased while at it.
I installed the Corksport RSB on my car and completely agree with this advice. It will be much easier to disconnect the end links at the bar-side ball joints so you that can deal with the bar and brackets separately. The bar is stiff and once you remove the brackets it is going to do what it wants to do based on any preload or stiffness in the ball joints. Chances are that it is not going to be loaded with perfect side-to-side symmetry.

It also makes good sense to take the bar all the way off the car to clean it up near the bushing surfaces. Then you can lube the new bushings and install the brackets, with bar mounted inside, to the car. Last step is reverse of the first, attaching end links at the bar-side ball joints.

The CS RSB and FSB zerk fittings seem like a great idea, but I must admit I have not used them yet. The RSB has been on the car for 3yrs, no squeaks. The FSB has been on for 2yrs, and it squeaks, but not loudly enough for me to go running for a grease gun (yet).
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 Old 08-22-2019, 06:12 AM   #7
 
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Im curious what the symptoms are of worn RSB bushings? Is it visible to see? I have a some clunking coming from that area of my car when stoping and starting but nothing looks out of sort.
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 Old 08-22-2019, 07:42 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by tripppleP View Post
Im curious what the symptoms are of worn RSB bushings? Is it visible to see? I have a some clunking coming from that area of my car when stoping and starting but nothing looks out of sort.
Check the end links first. They have a lock/jam nut that can just back off and get loose over time and needs to be retightened. When that happens they clunk. I had that happen on my MS3 on the way home from the dealer on the day I bought the car new.

Years later, it happened again. Far more common that the bushings. Put some blue Loctite on the threads. I ended up putting blue Loctite on both sides. Never clunked again.

But, yes, bushings do eventually wear out. Begin by checking the end links, though. Either loose nut or simply worn out. If end links are ok replace the sway bar bushings. It would be a good time to install new ones with zerk fitting brackets.
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Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership)
BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 08-22-2019, 09:48 AM   #9
 
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Thanks. Im going to check the links out on friday.

Im searching all over and cannot find much on Zerk. I do see a few aftermarket brackets though. But Zerk is eluding me at the moment. Ill search more when I amnoutnof work.
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 Old 08-22-2019, 10:55 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by tripppleP View Post
Thanks. Im going to check the links out on friday.

Im searching all over and cannot find much on Zerk. I do see a few aftermarket brackets though. But Zerk is eluding me at the moment. Ill search more when I amnoutnof work.
A zerk fitting is a grease nipple on the part that you keep full with a standard grease gun. Some of us believe that grease fittings help to make the bushings or other suspension parts that have them last longer. I typically re-lube these fittings when doing an oil change. You give the fitting a shot or two of grease until you see it come out of the cup or bushing. That also pushes out any water or other foreign material that may have gotten in.

Others prefer permanent suspension parts that do not have grease fittings.

For the rear suspension, I used Moog "Problem Solver" end links. They come with zerk fittings.

The swaybar brackets/bushings with zerk fittings are made by many different sources. Mine came from JBR (James Baronne Racing), a popular Mazdaspeed parts vendor.

The Gen 1 MS3 uses the same part number for front and rear. Gen 2 (yours) has different ones for front and rear. I'm not promoting or endorsing any particular company, this is just the one that I used and they work great. They are sold and priced in pairs. Do both sides at the same time regardless of which side is making noise, because the other soon will and the part is there in the box. The rear is pretty easy. The front can be a bit difficult to get to.

https://jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/i...roducts_id=297
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File Type: jpg swaybar bracket and bushing.JPG (32.4 KB, 1 views)
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Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership)
BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.

Last edited by MSMS3; 08-22-2019 at 11:21 AM.
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 Old 08-22-2019, 11:53 AM   #11
 
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Haha. I was looking at the Zerk greese nipples and thought they were a good idea and had no clue they were what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the information.

I replaced rear coil springs and took the sway bar off the mounts during the process. It was the first time I ever worked on my car. So im getting more familiar a step at a time.
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CS RMM
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JBR solid shift bushing
DM short shift plate
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 Old 11-06-2019, 08:26 AM   #12
 
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Default Moog sway bar bushings

The Gen 1 MS3 uses the same part number for front and rear. Gen 2 (yours) has different ones for front and rear. I'm not promoting or endorsing any particular company, this is just the one that I used and they work great. They are sold and priced in pairs. Do both sides at the same time regardless of which side is making noise, because the other soon will and the part is there in the box. The rear is pretty easy. The front can be a bit difficult to get to.

https://jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/i...roducts_id=297[/QUOTE]


So you're saying for the Gen1 the sway bar bushings are the same size? I need to replace mine as I've had this same clunking and am getting tired of it. I'm trying make sure I have the correct size before I order anything as I really don't want to do this job more than once! xD

I'm just looking for an inexpensive replacement for now to rule out the bushings as the source of the noise, would you happen to know the part number for the Moog bushings that would fit with the OEM bracket?
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