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 Old 01-12-2019, 07:13 PM   #1
 
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Default Am I replacing the clutch, master or slave?

So just finished replacing rear shocks and front wheel bearings.

On to problem #3 of 5 which I need a little help figuring out.
This is a bone stock 2012 MS3 with 155000 miles
I replaced the trans fluid with redline about 20000miles ago.

About two months ago when I would accelerate quickly to around 4,5rpm and higher the next time I would push in the clutch it would be noticeable stiffer, after that it goes back to feeling normal. Didn't effect shift at all.

Last week though I went on a two hour drive, now I'm having trouble getting into all gears.
no grinding below 3000rpms just real notchy feeling waiting for the synchro to sync, above 3000rpms is now impossible.

It feels like I'm not experiencing any loss of power. I can still do a smooth pull when I'm in gear, clutch doesn't feel like it slips, RPMs stay smooth and engages normal.
The pedal is still stiffening after acceleration.
No visible leaks
Reservoir is full

I picked the car up at 100000miles and am unsure if the clutch has ever been replaced.

I want to say it's a hydraulic issue the way the pedals acting.
Though I'm preparing myself to swap this clutch. Is there an inspection plate?


Anyone got any insight?

Thanks, JR
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 Old 01-12-2019, 11:38 PM   #2
 
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When I had a funny pedal feel after high revving, it was an issue with the ToB.
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 01-13-2019, 03:22 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
When I had a funny pedal feel after high revving, it was an issue with the ToB.
Never had a bad throw out bearing before but your right seems like some of the symptoms fit.

I dont have any of the noises though.
Did you have any vibration at idle or noises when it went bad?
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 Old 01-13-2019, 06:36 AM   #4
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I too had a TOB going and was getting locked out of gear after higher RPMs, car otherwise drove fine. Once I separated the eng/trans, the bearing would rattle when I spun it. I think I caught it before it would cause damage to the input shaft like a few people here have found. At the same time I also went with a Fidanza/Luk combo because the OEM DM was running right on the line of being out of spec. The bad TOB issue also was causing the friction disk to wear uneven. Its a labor intensive job, but can be done with a good selection of regular hand tools.
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 Old 01-13-2019, 06:54 AM   #5
 
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Most commonly after a 4th gear log or any high rpm activity, the clutch pedal would stick to the floor. I'd have to pull it up and then pump it to loosen it up again. I drove it like that for quite a while since normal driving didn't cause any issues. Eventually my clutch disk friction material separated during some "spirited" driving...somehow. When I pulled the trans to replace the clutch, the ToB was in 2 pieces. I didn't have any vibrations until the disk broke. I drove it home with the broken disk, but shifts were difficult, especially downshifting.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170925_185815.jpg (835.3 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 20170924_145947.jpg (607.7 KB, 4 views)
__________________
'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 01-15-2019, 08:24 AM   #6
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Default

Agreed on potential ToB issue - Clutch Issues - Harder to press as I rip through the gears

Check that you have sufficient travel at the slave, though. You should get ~3/4" travel of the piston. If not, it is a hydraulic issue with either the master or slave.

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 Old 01-15-2019, 12:54 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Agreed on potential ToB issue - Clutch Issues - Harder to press as I rip through the gears

Check that you have sufficient travel at the slave, though. You should get ~3/4" travel of the piston. If not, it is a hydraulic issue with either the master or slave.

http://youtu.be/xy3rT9zVnU4
Awesome thanks for this I was looking for a measurement for the throw of the slave 👍.

After now seeing all the info on ToB for these cars though I feel that's the issue but, I can hope it's still hydraulic right

Been doing some research on the DMF as well, I think that is the cause of my cars vibration issue as everything else has checked out fine. I think its failing and cause the ToB to degrade.

Looked over the how to here for a clutch swap. Doesn't seem to bad just not to excited about doing it.

Is the cheapest clutch as flywheel combo really the luk and fidanza SMF?


JR
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 Old 01-15-2019, 01:18 PM   #8
 
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I would strongly consider evaluating your long term plans with this car before pulling the trigger on a clutch.

Although, considering what's sitting in your stable, making the MS3 fast is a bit of a waste. That being the case, the LuK/Fidanza is probably you best option.
__________________
'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 01-15-2019, 01:20 PM   #9
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Yes, the DMF is rich, and not worth reusing.
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 Old Yesterday, 01:55 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
I would strongly consider evaluating your long term plans with this car before pulling the trigger on a clutch.

Although, considering what's sitting in your stable, making the MS3 fast is a bit of a waste. That being the case, the LuK/Fidanza is probably you best option.
Yes, I'm not planning on increasing the hp at all. At most I'll do full suspension.

My worry is if I ever have to sale the car I'm going to have to explain all this clutch chatter for going SMF.

Trying to decide if I need to plan for that and spend more or just get it done and say "because racecar"
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