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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:29 AM   #1
 
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Default Cheapest way to get to 300whp

Well? I read that a SRI+Test Pipe can get 271 at the wheels, what's the cheapest way to get that extra 30?

edit: I've been reading around and a lot of people are saying meth, I'd like to avoid that because I want something that I can just fill up with gas and go - I'm not really looking to have to refill it with meth.

Also, I thought with a new intake, turbo manifold, down pipe/test pipe, Catback exhaust, and tuning (ecu flash or something), it should be pretty easy to see 300 hp at the wheels?
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:31 AM   #2
 
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CP-E Downpipe, CP-E Intake, ETS TMIC, PTP upgraded fuel internals, PG Exhaust Manifold and Cobb AP and a zoom zoom boom to go along with it.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:40 AM   #3
 
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What's the AP? I'm not looking to upgrade the intercooler just yet, I don't wanna overwork the engine and watch it explode, so if upper-mid 200's is all that's safe with aftermarket stuff I'm probably just gonna stop there.

I heard on another forum that the stock fuel system was good up to 400hp?

I've heard the turbo problems people had with the 2007's and 2008's were fixed in the 09? Shouldn't that apply to the '10 too?
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:43 AM   #4
 
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IMO, I would stop at the intake/test pipe combo with 271 hp
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:44 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
What's the AP?
Cobb Accessport >>> cobbtuning.com

Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
I heard on another forum that the stock fuel system was good up to 400hp?
Log off from that forum and never visit it again.

Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
I've heard the turbo problems people had with the 2007's and 2008's were fixed in the 09? Shouldn't that apply to the '10 too?
I have seen very very few 08.5 and later with smoking turbo issues, I have an 08.5 with a catless downpipe and have no turbo smoking issues. 07 and early 08 were plagued with turbo smoking issues...

In all honesty, you would be very satisfied with a Cobb Intake, Cobb Inlet, Cobb Accessport and ETS or Streetunit TMIC.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:45 AM   #6
 
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AP is the Cobb Access Port
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:48 AM   #7
 
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^^^^ listen to felt, go with what he said, and the fact that you didnt know what an AP was means you havent read around a lot because it is everywhere on this site, and for that other forum, as felt said, don't vist it anymore, this is the best forum for mazdaspeeds
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:51 AM   #8
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CPE TBE, SRI, inlet pipe, BPV, FMIC and AP ... or save all that and go to a high reading dynojet
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:54 AM   #9
 
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Haha, I've actually been on forums pretty constantly since I got the car, but I always see it referred to as ap and never as access port, I've seen people refer to it but I never made the connection. I have lost a step mentally since my accident so if I post stupid comments in the future that's probably why.

From what it sounds like it's probably a big pain in the ass to go that extra 30, I'm not really interested in upgrading the whole car - I just wanted to make it a little more of a driver's car.

I'm laughing at the 'quit and never return' comment, I thought that was a little suspicious when I read it.

edit: the 400hp on stock fuel system thing
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:57 AM   #10
 
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yeah i was looking around also for information about the car and found this to be the best site for advise. felt nailed it.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:03 PM   #11
 
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I'm making 269whp with the cobb SRI and TIP. The test pipe should add more than 2whp shouldn't it?

I also have the streetunit boost tubes but I figured them to be relatively negligible...
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:05 PM   #12
 
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you do want to swap out the stock intercooler.... it has a 3~4psi pressure drop... so your turbo is pushing 19~20psi just for stock 15psi boost. now imagine a more efficient IC that lets the engine receive 18.5psi while the turbo is pushing ~19psi... more boost for you, less work for the turbo.... more power
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:06 PM   #13
 
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In all honesty. SRI + Test Pipe + AP with a real tune will put you at 300 or JUST under it total cost ~$900
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
I'm not looking to upgrade the intercooler just yet, I don't wanna overwork the engine and watch it explode,
the intercooler will not overwork the engine, and the turbo doesnt have to work as hard to hit the same boost.
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Originally Posted by Say Chi Sin Lo View Post
While the other forum is GREAT for technical/mechanical information and how to, that place is filled with single-minded (if you aren't driving fast, you're doing it wrong), arrogant, and professional douchebags.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:27 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by bmorrisj View Post
you do want to swap out the stock intercooler.... it has a 3~4psi pressure drop... so your turbo is pushing 19~20psi just for stock 15psi boost. now imagine a more efficient IC that lets the engine receive 18.5psi while the turbo is pushing ~19psi... more boost for you, less work for the turbo.... more power
Ok, I lied - I would love one but the cheapest I've seen them is $900. I plan on getting a good TMIC eventually (otherwise what would that hood scoop be doing?), but for now I'm probably gonna get an intake first, test pipe second, access port 3rd, good tune 4th, and later an intercooler.

I wanna upgrade other things besides the power though, I saw that thread on painting the stock rims, so I'm probably gonna go with that (gunmetal looks sweet), the rear motor mount and weighted knobs are pretty cheap, but the biggest thing was I wanted to get some new seat covers (ideally black sides with red perforated middle, leather too), and those are looking to be 600 bucks. I also wanna put on angel eyes when I get some more free time, I found them for 75 bucks on one site, but the install is an all day affair (I've heard times ranging from 6-12 hours)

Thanks for the advice, and you guys are right - this forum is definitely way better than the other one I've been hanging around recently. Also excuse my long-windedness, ignore it and it'll go away after I've been a member for a while.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:34 PM   #16
 
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The MM should be near the top of your list, may I suggest before your seat covers...
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 Old 03-03-2010, 12:34 PM   #17
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i ran intake, inlet ,test pipe, and TMIC with no tune and no problems.
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Originally Posted by Say Chi Sin Lo View Post
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 Old 03-03-2010, 01:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
Ok, I lied - I would love one but the cheapest I've seen them is $900. I plan on getting a good TMIC eventually (otherwise what would that hood scoop be doing?)
You are aware that the 1st GEN has functional openings that channel air to the intercooler as well right? The only real difference is that the openings are on the hood vice in front but nonetheless both designs serve to provide air to the TMIC.

With that said a FMIC is still beneficial either way because the stock TMIC (on both MS3's) gets heat soaked due to it being placed directly on top of the motor. This isn't as much of an issue while the car is moving forward but when you're stopped for a while BATs (boosted air temps sky rocket).

Obviously with a FMIC your BATs will be significantly lower which in turn increases efficiently which improves power. If you go with a FMIC the airways that served to provide air to the TMIC will just be going inside the engine bay which isn’t a bad thing.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 01:26 PM   #19
 
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With that being said of course it is better to have a front mount has anyone else with a 2010 attempted one yet? If so was there any issues with the car? I have heard a few people on here say it has to be tuned before a front mount can be put on.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:31 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by ms3077 View Post
You are aware that the 1st GEN has functional openings that channel air to the intercooler as well right? The only real difference is that the openings are on the hood vice in front but nonetheless both designs serve to provide air to the TMIC.

With that said a FMIC is still beneficial either way because the stock TMIC (on both MS3's) gets heat soaked due to it being placed directly on top of the motor. This isn't as much of an issue while the car is moving forward but when you're stopped for a while BATs (boosted air temps sky rocket).

Obviously with a FMIC your BATs will be significantly lower which in turn increases efficiently which improves power. If you go with a FMIC the airways that served to provide air to the TMIC will just be going inside the engine bay which isn’t a bad thing.
I see what you're saying, and because I have a lot of time to think about it, I may change my mind, but non-functional hood scoops are just gay. When somebody asks me "what does that enormous opening on the top of your car do?" and I answer "well... nothing anymore" I'll just feel like a douche. They're great on the 2009's and earlier because even though there are openings to direct air to the intercooler they're not huge and shout-y like the scoop on the gen 2 is.

That being said, if somebody made a kit to convert the scoop to a ram air scoop that would be effing sweet.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:36 PM   #21
 
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actually i think if you get a turbo inlet and a downpipe and a protune you should see 300whrp no problem.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:44 PM   #22
 
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Is the AP even out for the gen2's yet?
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:45 PM   #23
 
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3" straight back no cats, inlet and intake and you should be running anywhere from 18 to 20 psi with the backpressure loss and that should put you around 300 without a tune. just watch out for boost cut.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:48 PM   #24
 
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I think the front grill of a 2010 (yes the smiley bullshit) will restrict airflow to the intercooler on a fmic...Atleast it isn't as optimal as the MS3 Gen1 front bumper. In all honesty, I'd stick with an upgraded TMIC. I had one along time ago and it stayed very cool to the touch when compared to my stock tmic. I would park my car with the stock tmic and after a few minutes it would get hot. I did the same with the ETS TMIC and after 10 minutes it was still cool to the touch.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:48 PM   #25
 
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you can find a a good used TMIC for ~400
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 Old 03-03-2010, 02:59 PM   #26
 
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I saw a photo of an aftermarket front bumper for the 2010 that looked sweet - I'm looking for it now but I can't seem to find it again. Anyway, it took out that huge piece of plastic (IMO its what makes the smile look bad) and the difference was huge. It was a japanese company that made it, I think.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 03:17 PM   #27
 
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Going back to OP's original question: Cheapest way to 300 whp would be SRI, and catless dp/rp and one step colder plugs. Would put you pretty close, certainly a bit over 300 crank horses. Total mods would be less cost than the AP alone.

To go over 300 whp on the cheap with above mods, add a good manual boost controller set to 18 or 19 psi (no higher) and dial it back to a safe 17 when not at the track. These are available from Hallman, Turbo XS and others for well under $150.

This is not how I would personally build 300 whp, but you could do all of the above for well under $1000 and if sensible in use of the MBC could avoid zoom, zoom, boom.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 07:04 PM   #28
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OFF TOPIC : so with my mod what number you think i be getting to the wheels? you think i be getting 300 to the wheels? cause i just read a post on this thread saying they are making 269-271 with just a sri and yip.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 07:50 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 2010 MS3 View Post
OFF TOPIC : so with my mod what number you think i be getting to the wheels? you think i be getting 300 to the wheels? cause i just read a post on this thread saying they are making 269-271 with just a sri and yip.
Lets see..

SRI: 15-20whp
Inlet: 0-5whp
RMM: 0
BOV: 0
DP: 15-20whp
TP: 10whp

Total: 40-55whp - Stock whp ~230-240whp w/ mods: ~ 270-285whp.

With a decent tune I think 300whp is doable. By the way comparing DYNO #'s as a means to determine who's making more power is pointless. There are too many variables in the equation.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 07:51 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by 2010 MS3 View Post
OFF TOPIC : so with my mod what number you think i be getting to the wheels? you think i be getting 300 to the wheels? cause i just read a post on this thread saying they are making 269-271 with just a sri and yip.

Well it's a claim from a manufacturer, and to be fair they did do engine mounts too, which increases the number of hp going to the wheels. And if they were smart about it they did an ecu tune to it too because they're an aftermarket manufacturer (actually I could be wrong about that, I don't know what the standard practice is regarding stuff like this)

I dunno, the fact that you asked the question makes me believe that it's not what it would seem to be, however an engine tune isn't listed - I figure that could account for a few extra ponies. Plus you've got a catted d/p if I'm reading that correctly, so the goodies on your car shouldn't account for too much more/less than that if I'm right (although I'm a newb to forced induction so I could be way off the mark here), but I'd say with everything you've got you're probably putting down around 280 at the wheels.

How close was I?

edit: to the guy who posted the absolute cheapest way to get to 300, thank you for answering my question to the "T", but this car is gonna be a DD so I need reasonable reliability too, so I'm probably gonna start off with a SRI + Test Pipe (I may get the TIP too), but I'm probably gonna save up and upgrade things that help the durability. Probably go with a used TMIC, aftermarket BPV/BOV, OCC, definitely a RMM too - I'm looking to enhance the feeling I get when I mash my foot to the ground.

Also, I do want leather seats, angel eyes, interior LED's.LED tail lights, etc. - so those things will be woven into the game plan on what I'm gonna do with the car.

Honestly, I've been glued to the computer screen looking at things I could do to the car to make it 'mine'. It'll probably never all get done, but as long as I get some of it taken care of, I'll be pretty happy.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 10:14 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ms3077 View Post
Lets see..

SRI: 15-20whp
Inlet: 0-5whp
RMM: 0
BOV: 0
DP: 15-20whp
TP: 10whp

Total: 40-55whp - Stock whp ~230-240whp w/ mods: ~ 270-285whp.

With a decent tune I think 300whp is doable. By the way comparing DYNO #'s as a means to determine who's making more power is pointless. There are too many variables in the equation.
you are right , thanks for your info !!

Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
Well it's a claim from a manufacturer, and to be fair they did do engine mounts too, which increases the number of hp going to the wheels. And if they were smart about it they did an ecu tune to it too because they're an aftermarket manufacturer (actually I could be wrong about that, I don't know what the standard practice is regarding stuff like this)

I dunno, the fact that you asked the question makes me believe that it's not what it would seem to be, however an engine tune isn't listed - I figure that could account for a few extra ponies. Plus you've got a catted d/p if I'm reading that correctly, so the goodies on your car shouldn't account for too much more/less than that if I'm right (although I'm a newb to forced induction so I could be way off the mark here), but I'd say with everything you've got you're probably putting down around 280 at the wheels.

How close was I?

edit: to the guy who posted the absolute cheapest way to get to 300, thank you for answering my question to the "T", but this car is gonna be a DD so I need reasonable reliability too, so I'm probably gonna start off with a SRI + Test Pipe (I may get the TIP too), but I'm probably gonna save up and upgrade things that help the durability. Probably go with a used TMIC, aftermarket BPV/BOV, OCC, definitely a RMM too - I'm looking to enhance the feeling I get when I mash my foot to the ground.

Also, I do want leather seats, angel eyes, interior LED's.LED tail lights, etc. - so those things will be woven into the game plan on what I'm gonna do with the car.

Honestly, I've been glued to the computer screen looking at things I could do to the car to make it 'mine'. It'll probably never all get done, but as long as I get some of it taken care of, I'll be pretty happy.
take it slow, it took me from sep till now (1/2 yr ) to get all my parts
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 Old 03-03-2010, 10:27 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by bmorrisj View Post
you do want to swap out the stock intercooler.... it has a 3~4psi pressure drop... so your turbo is pushing 19~20psi just for stock 15psi boost. now imagine a more efficient IC that lets the engine receive 18.5psi while the turbo is pushing ~19psi... more boost for you, less work for the turbo.... more power
how safe would it be to run a new tmic on a 2010 without a tune?
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 Old 03-03-2010, 11:29 PM   #33
 
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do what i do! jerk it and dump a load of nut in the gas tank and you'll be pushing 350 to the wheels in a nano second brah! like totally.
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 Old 03-04-2010, 01:04 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
do what i do! jerk it and dump a load of nut in the gas tank and you'll be pushing 350 to the wheels in a nano second brah! like totally.
he's right iv'e seen him do it at the dyno right before his pull. it's like NOS.
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 Old 03-04-2010, 04:56 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
do what i do! jerk it and dump a load of nut in the gas tank and you'll be pushing 350 to the wheels in a nano second brah! like totally.
Originally Posted by nutsac76 View Post
he's right iv'e seen him do it at the dyno right beofre his pull. it's like NOS.
lol.....
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 Old 03-04-2010, 05:13 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by thenewzolt View Post
how safe would it be to run a new tmic on a 2010 without a tune?
It will be just fine...reset the battery if you want, the ecu is smart enough to learn for a tmic.

I had fmic, test pipe, cai, inlet, bpv with no tune and ran great
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 Old 03-04-2010, 05:18 AM   #37
 
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just so everyone knows, AP isnt even out yet for gen2's and cobb seems to be in no hurry to get it out
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 Old 03-04-2010, 05:49 AM   #38
 
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Supposedly, the ECU on the GEN 2's is even more complex than the 1st gen car's. I'm told they're working on it, plus, they have a shop car here at their Plano, TX location, so I'm pretty sure they're making an effort. Your time will come, Gen 2'ers...your time will come.
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 Old 03-04-2010, 05:53 AM   #39
 
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Just go SB..lol

I probably should've with my first gen but I'm going to work my way up to that once I build more and learn more about the ecu
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 Old 03-04-2010, 12:41 PM   #40
 
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Great info guys, thanks for all the help with this.

I should be getting a SRI soon b/c cold air doesn't sound like its worth it especially with a corksport heat shield. I'm gonna install the shifter bushings and shift plate I have from jbarone thats been sitting around, and after all that I'll probably install a rear motor mount.

After that, I'll probably install a test pipe and delete one of the resonators b/c I've heard the exhaust sounds better without them.

After that, I'll be pretty happy with it, I'm probably gonna save up and get the leather seat covers next (thanks to whoever posted the link), and I also plan on installing some angel/demon eyes when I can get around to it. I also want to paint the rims but I gotta get some car jacks before I can do that.

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