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 Old 01-13-2020, 12:58 PM   #1
 
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Default Engine noise, near right wheel,

Hello

I have Mazda 3 MPS 2 gen, motor was build one years ago. I drove few thousands kilometers and recently heard strange noise. I used for build CP pistons, Manley rods, delete dualmass, balance shafts, install FMIC, custom intake, hybrid turbo.

Please watch:

https://vimeo.com/384597910?utm_sour...campaign=28749

When the engine is cold after minute I hear tick noise next to right wheel. Under scoop all sounds normal, only there.

After 5 minutes, when the engine work, noise disappears.

When the engine is hot, after few kilometers tick noisy is softly.

In my opinion:

- it can't be piston slap because under scoop is silent
- injector seals was change
- chain belt also, because install new timming kit when the motor was build, I can't hear noises next to engine cover
- if it rod or main bearings noise will be louder when engine is hot, not like cold
- gearbox and ACT clutch noise is different and it hear only driver side
- alternator is regenerated with new tensioner
- A/C clutch doesn't change sound when it on/off
- under the car, applying the stethoscope to the oil pan, I can't hear anything

What do you think about it? What I should check?

ps. Sorry about my avarage English

Last edited by billiejoe; 01-13-2020 at 02:32 PM.
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 Old 01-13-2020, 01:17 PM   #2
 
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Default

Link does not work for me.

Maybe it is the idler pulley on the serpentine belt. It’s common to replace it at the same time as the tensioner.
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 Old 01-13-2020, 01:41 PM   #3
 
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Default

Please download:

https://megawrzuta.pl/download/af4f6...3f3d64774.html

It's movie, this type will be better than only audio. You should click "Pobierz"
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 Old 01-13-2020, 02:42 PM   #4
 
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Remove the serpentine belt and start it up w/o belt. See if the sound persists.
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 Old 01-13-2020, 03:10 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Db09ms3 View Post
Remove the serpentine belt and start it up w/o belt. See if the sound persists.
That disables the water pump! Better not do that for more than a minute or two.

Might be better to remove the belt and just spin the idler with the engine off and see if it rattles or wobbles. It’s a cheap part. If it’s never been replaced, it’s probably long overdue.
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BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 01-13-2020, 03:18 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by MSMS3 View Post
That disables the water pump! Better not do that for more than a minute or two.

Might be better to remove the belt and just spin the idler with the engine off and see if it rattles or wobbles. Itís a cheap part. If itís never been replaced, itís probably long overdue.
No worries on that, I'm not saying run it until operating temp BUT only for a minute or two.
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