New Fuel Pump vs Internals

[Mclovin80]

Is it worth the extra couple hundred bucks for a new HPFP or should I just get internals?

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[Mortose]

new pump. and while your at it, just get the stage 3 block too.

[Abu Zib]

[Mclovin80]

I'm just reading about people busting their asses trying to swap out internals and don't think it's a job for me. I need this upgrade before getting a new DP. Just missed a CP-E fuel pump for $500 on the gen1 for sale forum.

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[ckMS3]

Cp-e pump just replaces the internals. Installing internals isn't hard ask a friend who is more mechanically inclined to help.

[mac_dre]

Only pussies bust their asses... swapping my internals was easy. Just gotta have the right tools

[ibcrusn]

Make friends with the locals NATOR FL

[iammike]

I bought CPE for the testing and warranty. To me, when dealing with fuel delivery, it's worth it.


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[ms3rick]

internals...

[Dralphy]

From the threads I've read, and the videos I've watched, I'd go internals all the way.

As long as you follow directions and take your time you should be fine! Do more research on internals, or get someone from your NATOR group to help..

Spending a few hundred more because you CBA to do it yourself means less $$ for other mods. Get on it!

[cbizily]

Is he talking about buying a brand new pump without upgraded internals. inb4stupidmistake

[iammike]

Originally Posted by cbizily Is he talking about buying a brand new pump without upgraded internals. inb4stupidmistake

You can purchase a full fuel pump already upgraded from CP-e then you send your core back to them.

Benefits are warranty of the fuel pump and testing before being shipped to you. Unfortunately the cost are quite a bit greater than the upgraded internals.

[Speed3eak]

I bought the pump back when cp-e didn't suck donkey dick. Maybe that isn't entirely accurate; they always have overcharged. APR could swap our internals for $100 less, but they play dumb when you talk to them.

My best guess is a non-compete rider in their agreement to sell parts to cp-e.

Anyway, when I pulled the pump I was pissed I hadn't gotten the internals. $300 these days will buy you a downpipe, or can go towards a used AP. If you have an AP, you can buy a pro-tune for less.

The swap is easier than you think. A $5 can of brake cleaner, some oil, and a pair of gloves will go a long way to keeping the internals clean while you install them.

[cbizily]

Yeah i just looked that up. Don't do that internals were easy to do just have to be careful and pay attention. Not worth almost twice the price when you still have to do the hardest part of the process anyways getting the pump out.

[IHIERBal]

Like most people said already, I think internals are the way to go. I did them by myself and have had no issues so far. Currently getting e-tuned and my FP at WOT are well above the 1600 psi mark we're supposed to look out for.

[chimneybear]

anybody else with a genpu without upgraded internal can sustain 1700+ psi on WOT?

[iammike]

Fuel is one of the most important things your engine needs to run properly and safe. Why risk it is my opinion.

[chimneybear]

Originally Posted by iammike Fuel is one of the most important things your engine needs to run properly and safe. Why risk it is my opinion.

i might be wrong but seems like folks here are getting 1650-1700ish sustained fuel pressure after internals upgrade

[iammike]

Originally Posted by chimneybear i might be wrong but seems like folks here are getting 1650-1700ish sustained fuel pressure after internals upgrade

I, personally, have the CP-e upgraded pump. I'm not sure what the max PSI is with the upgraded internals or the CP-e because the pump simply tries to meet the requested fuel pressure from the ECU.

If I put a Stage 1 map on my car, it runs around the 1650 psi mark. With a Stage 2 map it's more like 1750 psi.

The real question is as you add mods to your car increasing the amount of air in each charge, can the stock fuel pump meet the psi required to maintain the increased fuel required. The rule of thumb seems to be, in most cases, no.

I'm the type I'd rather just eliminate the questionable part of the equation, spend the $'s, and not have to worry that I can't meet the demands of the ECU.

This is how I understand the big picture. I'm open to correction if I'm off here.

[chimneybear]

Originally Posted by iammike I, personally, have the CP-e upgraded pump. I'm not sure what the max PSI is with the upgraded internals or the CP-e because the pump simply tries to meet the requested fuel pressure from the ECU. If I put a Stage 1 map on my car, it runs around the 1650 psi mark. With a Stage 2 map it's more like 1750 psi. The real question is as you add mods to your car increasing the amount of air in each charge, can the stock fuel pump meet the psi required to maintain the increased fuel required. The rule of thumb seems to be, in most cases, no. I'm the type I'd rather just eliminate the questionable part of the equation, spend the $'s, and not have to worry that I can't meet the demands of the ECU. This is how I understand the big picture. I'm open to correction if I'm off here.

Thanks man. Good point. Looking forward to get AT internals soon. CP-e is an impossible option as international shipping's gonna be a bitch for core return.

[Mclovin80]

I ended up getting AT internals and installing them myself. It was much easier than I had expected. My PSI at idle is still the same, but I am definitely seeing higher PSI at mid-range levels. I haven't gone WOT yet (still at break in period), but I would guess I am going to see over 1800 easily.

[iammike]

Originally Posted by Mclovin80 I ended up getting AT internals and installing them myself. It was much easier than I had expected. My PSI at idle is still the same, but I am definitely seeing higher PSI at mid-range levels. I haven't gone WOT yet (still at break in period), but I would guess I am going to see over 1800 easily.

You will only see what the ECU ask for.

[Speed3in215]

I get 1739 psi at wot with cs Sri +tip on stage1 ots map. So next mod must AT internals the obvious choice. I don't see why risking adding a dp w/o internals. They say under 1400 psi at wot and pump goes boom?

[Keko]

Originally Posted by Speed3in215 I get 1739 psi at wot with cs Sri +tip on stage1 ots map. So next mod must AT internals the obvious choice. I don't see why risking adding a dp w/o internals. They say under 1400 psi at wot and pump goes boom?

So full of fail.

1739 is the desired pressure, not the actual pressure. Look at your actual pressure, you don't want it to dip below 1600psi.

Where did you read 1400psi and the fuel pump blows? LOL. What happens is if you keep running a tune where your HPFP is dropping below 1600, your motor will eventually ZZB.

[ktms3]

I went for the internals as it takes only 20 - 30 more min to install the internal in the fuel pump. We did 2 cars in and hour and half. Just make sure you have the right tools and something to clamp the fuel pump.

[iammike]

....and whatever you do, don't forget to put a string or a zip tie or something around the steel fuel line under the pump before you remove it. You'll regret it if you don't. lol