RMM Knocking

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS I stripped the horizontal bolt when installin mine and for the fail drove around the block to see how bad it would be and what you are describing is exactly what I experienced. I would get down there asap and check everything myself, it's very possible the dealer tightened it to much.

I stripped the threads on the welded nut where the horizontal bolts go. I would get down there and check if it is torqued down to 70 lbs. Then check the other 4 bolts as well. It sounds like its stripped.

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by himurax13 I stripped the threads on the welded nut where the horizontal bolts go. I would get down there and check if it is torqued down to 70 lbs. Then check the other 4 bolts as well. It sounds like its stripped.

Thanks but I drilled and retapped mine the same day so all good here.

[Wings_Fan_1986]

after how much power should i start looking into upgrading the clutch and tranny? ive been told that the stock clutch doesnt hold much power

[I_Heart_Haters]

...lol well you were told wrong. plus this is the wrong section to be asking that question.

[jbarone]

His posts look pretty suspicious.

[iggy097]

By the way, since uninstalling the RMM and going back to stock, I've had not a single 2-3rd gear grind. Many WO FFS into 3rd testing it.
Not saying it's a bad product, but I am saying that I'm almost sure that it was responsible for the 2-3 grinds in my car at this point.
Or if IT was responsible, then it was causing something else to do it.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by iggy097 By the way, since uninstalling the RMM and going back to stock, I've had not a single 2-3rd gear grind. Many WO FFS into 3rd testing it. Not saying it's a bad product, but I am saying that I'm almost sure that it was responsible for the 2-3 grinds in my car at this point. Or if IT was responsible, then it was causing something else to do it.

Did you adjust the shifter after you installed the rear motor mount?

[iggy097]

I did not. Was fine until it was not. Then it was not until it came off. Now it's fine again.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by iggy097 I did not. Was fine until it was not. Then it was not until it came off. Now it's fine again.

So basically no. I had to readjust mine and it was far better than the stock mount. With the stock mount I could not feel engagement into third and 6th took several tries to get in gear. I believe the instructions say that adjustment is needed for optimal results.

[Zbrit00x]

I'm glad I stumbled on this thread.. Since I got the big turbo in on cold starts when I fire up the car I hear and feel a knock. It only happens when first firing up, when reversing from a full stop and going over some speed bumps while turning. General concensus seems to be check out the rmm ( I'm on a sure track rmm, can't remember the duro but it was the stiffest they offered).

[iggy097]

Like I said, I'm over it. Not trying to convince anyone one way or another, and definatly not trying to hurt anyone's business, but the fucker was way more trouble than it was worth for me.
That knocking drove me crazy. It's so nice not to hear it anymore.
And to say well, you need 2 or 3 more parts in order to make this part work right, no thanks. This is my DD. I just like to drive fast to prove I have a big penis.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by iggy097 Like I said, I'm over it. Not trying to convince anyone one way or another, and definatly not trying to hurt anyone's business, but the fucker was way more trouble than it was worth for me. That knocking drove me crazy. It's so nice not to hear it anymore. And to say well, you need 2 or 3 more parts in order to make this part work right, no thanks. This is my DD. I just like to drive fast to prove I have a big penis.

I totally feel your pain. If I would have known how much of a PITA it is to install everything, and then getting it to work in harmony, I would have just left it mostly stock.

The RMM amplifies NVH and other engine noises but it allows for better shifting and it helps keep the engine from smacking the firewall.

[dabo]

It appears I have this same problem. I put on the JBR 70 duro RMM in early June and noticed this problem today. This bugged me endlessly stuck in traffic for an hour on the way home. I'll throw it on a lift tomorrow and retighen everything with blue loctite since I didn't use it the first time, just torqued everything tight. I can't image that it's any of the other mounts, as the car is < 10,000 miles and it's my daily driver so I haven't done very much to it.

[iggy097]

For anyone that was following this thread, I wanted to state that the car still does grind occasionaly going into third from a WOT, so it was not the JBR RMM that was causing this.

[mxlplx71]

its the factory bushing the horizontal bolt goes through that knocks if not tight enough to crush the rubber bushing alittle. the long bolt is alittle too small.
i have a 70duro rmm.
it knocked as other described, put on a lift and you could rock engine by hand alittle.
the bolt looked polished where it moved.
tightend more to put alittle crush on the bushing and its good.

[Printman]

I put the JBR 88 Duro mount on and started getting 2nd and 3rd gear grind. Adjusted shifter and it helped but still an occasional grind. Put the ford MoCo tranny fluid in and not a single grind since and it shifts alot better. The transmission mount will move the tranny just enough to throw off the linkage and adjusting will eventually get rid of any grind if you do not want to do the tranny fluid swap. Take a silver fine tip sharpie and mark your points when adjusting the shifter and move in little increments and test. It takes time so be patient.

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 its the factory bushing the horizontal bolt goes through that knocks if not tight enough to crush the rubber bushing alittle. the long bolt is alittle too small. i have a 70duro rmm. it knocked as other described, put on a lift and you could rock engine by hand alittle. the bolt looked polished where it moved. tightend more to put alittle crush on the bushing and its good.

^^^^this

Had this exact same problem. Took to my mechanic buddy and when you start the car that bolt that goes threw the transmission bracket will rattle. The bracket moves with the engine when it starts and that bolt does not, resulting in an annoying rattle sound. Although I didn't re-torque as stated above. I think one thing that could be done is to replace that bushing in the bracket to a poly. It's made of the same material as the stock RMM which is junk. Putting that beffy RMM in, will cause the engine to find the weakest link in the system. That transmission bracket bushing is weak.

jbarone

[irishking03]

I had the same RMM jamie took care of the issue. I dont know if its a common problem with this euro but he refunded me the money and I paid the difference to have his dogbone 80 duro and BOOMM shit is on point..

silo2288, did your get taken care of.

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by irishking03 I had the same RMM jamie took care of the issue. I dont know if its a common problem with this euro but he refunded me the money and I paid the difference to have his dogbone 80 duro and BOOMM shit is on point.. silo2288, did your get taken care of.

What happened to your torque solutions/sure knockoff mount?

Probably sent from a toilet

[irishking03]

Originally Posted by broncojd78 What happened to your torque solutions/sure knockoff mount? Probably sent from a toilet

?????????? Im lost.. I have all JBR mounts but the Trans Mount.. I know a while back I mentioned I was going to get the Sure RMM but never did because of some of the bad write ups.

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by irishking03 ?????????? Im lost.. I have all JBR mounts but the Trans Mount.. I know a while back I mentioned I was going to get the Sure RMM but never did because of some of the bad write ups.

my bad... i misread your SN

[irishking03]

Originally Posted by broncojd78 my bad... i misread your SN

All good man.

[dabo]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 its the factory bushing the horizontal bolt goes through that knocks if not tight enough to crush the rubber bushing alittle. the long bolt is alittle too small. i have a 70duro rmm. it knocked as other described, put on a lift and you could rock engine by hand alittle. the bolt looked polished where it moved. tightend more to put alittle crush on the bushing and its good.

This appears to have been my problem too. When I put the car on a lift the other week and checked to see what was lose the horizontal bolt wasn't the prescribed 120 ftlbs. Took everything apart to check it all out, used locktite this time and put it back together and it all seems straight 1.5 weeks out when I put it up again to double check. Doesn't solve the OPs grinding issue, but it fixed the other problem described.

[Stingray69]

I took my JBR 80 RMM out because of the annoying rattle that started after 5 to 6k miles. I agree it is the horizontal bolt. If you look at the factory mount it has shoulders the bushing stops against that prevent the movement in the direction of engine torque. It seems that all the aftermarket mounts squeeze the bushing in the factory tranny mount. The bolt alone does not fit tight enough to prevent movement. I pulled mine off numerous times and loctited it and it would fix it for a while but sooner or later it would loosen back up. I found this thread looking for the stage 2 CPE mount opinions because it replaces that whole interface.

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by Stingray69 I took my JBR 80 RMM out because of the annoying rattle that started after 5 to 6k miles. I agree it is the horizontal bolt. If you look at the factory mount it has shoulders the bushing stops against that prevent the movement in the direction of engine torque. It seems that all the aftermarket mounts squeeze the bushing in the factory tranny mount. The bolt alone does not fit tight enough to prevent movement. I pulled mine off numerous times and loctited it and it would fix it for a while but sooner or later it would loosen back up. I found this thread looking for the stage 2 CPE mount opinions because it replaces that whole interface.

the trz dogbone (and assumingly the jbr dogbone) doesn't/don't have this problem.

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by Stingray69 I took my JBR 80 RMM out because of the annoying rattle that started after 5 to 6k miles. I agree it is the horizontal bolt. If you look at the factory mount it has shoulders the bushing stops against that prevent the movement in the direction of engine torque. It seems that all the aftermarket mounts squeeze the bushing in the factory tranny mount. The bolt alone does not fit tight enough to prevent movement. I pulled mine off numerous times and loctited it and it would fix it for a while but sooner or later it would loosen back up. I found this thread looking for the stage 2 CPE mount opinions because it replaces that whole interface.

Exact problem I had. I took it apart and torqued it down to spec. It's been good for 3k since.

[kteevan]

so with a rmm on the way, when i install it, make sure every nut and bolt along with it is torqued down properly, and use blue lock-tite. got it. just out of curiosity though, is 70lb/ft on it the proper torque rating? or is that what you guys found to be the best?

[DuoofDeath1]

Mine is making that same noise that the OP was describing. I have had mine installed for about 400 miles. I have retorqued everything and it still does it. I just assumed it would do that until it was broken it...

[iammike]

Originally Posted by bryansawiseone I HAVE THE CP-E RMM IN MY MS3 AND HAVEN'T FELT ANY OF THAT... MAYBE SOME VIBRATIONS THROUGH THE FIRE WALL BECAUSE OF THE STIFFNESS BUT THAT'S ABOUT IT... I HOPE ALL GETS BETTER... WHEN YOU FIND OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS LET US KNOW...

Stop yelling at me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[spacejunk]

same issue here. Freaking sucks. I had it installed while my oil and winteres were switched by my favorite indy mechanic. The mod worked beautifully for a few days then the rattling started. Its literally driving me insane. Jacked up the car this weekend and everything seemed tight. This coming weekend, I'll remove it, check the bushing, and loctite willy nilly. If it doesnt solve the issue, I'm going back to stock. I'm too much of a wuss to drive a nearly new rattle $20k+ rattle can.

[Playaj]

Same here with a jbr 80duro. Retightened and came back the next week. Torqued and has been good for almost a month now