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 Old 01-10-2018, 08:06 AM   #1
 
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Default Shop telling me I need a clutch

Here's the issue....

Friday on my way home I noticed my clutch was engaging /disengaging really low. Normally engages pretty high. Pedal felt soft. Shifting was a little laborious a few times but I didn't think much of it.

On Monday, it was doing the same thing on my way to work but occasionally the clutch pedal would stick to the floor for a split second before coming back up. A couple of times I was locked out of 4th for a second or two, had to convince it to go in.

Throwout bearing has been especially loud lately but I don't know if it got louder than normal or if that was due to the extreme cold we've had.

Took it to a shop and they cited the throwout bearing noise, soft clutch pedal feel, soft brake pedal feel, and the fact that they couldn't get into 4th a few times as cause for a new clutch. I did not check the master or slave cylinders though the reservoir was full so if it leaked for ~3days and ~130 miles I feel like I would've lost some fluid.

Based on what I've read here it seems some "common" indicators of clutch problems are normal with Speed's due to the TOB and the dual mass flywheel. Never had a problem until a few days ago. Does this sound reasonable? I don't want to shell out 1700 for a new clutch if I don't have to.

Car is 2011. 126K miles on stock clutch.
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 Old 01-10-2018, 08:52 AM   #2
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You may need a new clutch assembly, however your symptoms say that you need one of these: https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/p...0aAt-8EALw_wcB
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 Old 01-10-2018, 09:23 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by dp3 View Post
You may need a new clutch assembly, however your symptoms say that you need one of these: https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/p...0aAt-8EALw_wcB
Aside from the symptons already exhibited is there a way to tell if it's definitely bad? Are there visible signs on the mechanism itself?
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 Old 01-10-2018, 09:38 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Ezekiel81923 View Post
Aside from the symptons already exhibited is there a way to tell if it's definitely bad? Are there visible signs on the mechanism itself?
Open the hood and look directly down at the front face of the trans. Check for signs of leaking on the slave cylinder. Inspect the rubber line for cracks. The master is bolted to the firewall. You have to remove the battery to see it.

Does your clutch slip under heavy loads? Like going uphill in 5th or 6th and the revs suddenly spike but the vehicle speed remains the same? If so, its definitely your clutch.

Considering you have TOB noise you might as well just replace the clutch and slave. Mine went out at 90K.
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 Old 01-10-2018, 09:45 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post

Does your clutch slip under heavy loads? Like going uphill in 5th or 6th and the revs suddenly spike but the vehicle speed remains the same? If so, its definitely your clutch.

Considering you have TOB noise you might as well just replace the clutch and slave. Mine went out at 90K.
I got up to 10-12lbs of boost a few times in 5th on my way to the shop to see if I could get it to sleep and it didn't slip but the road was relatively flat. I honestly don't think I've ever felt (or heard) my clutch slip since I bought the car 6 years ago.

I guess needing a new clutch is an inevitability at some point so I'm not opposed to having the work done if its needed. Clutch, pressure plate, TOB and pilot bearing is what they said they were doing. I'm sure if there's another issue they'll find it when they're in there. If clutch release is a problem they should notice right away once they're done the work I assume.

I don't have the car, it's sitting at the shop, so unfortunately I can't check some of this stuff now
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 Old 01-10-2018, 10:14 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Ezekiel81923 View Post
I got up to 10-12lbs of boost a few times in 5th on my way to the shop to see if I could get it to sleep and it didn't slip but the road was relatively flat. I honestly don't think I've ever felt (or heard) my clutch slip since I bought the car 6 years ago.

I guess needing a new clutch is an inevitability at some point so I'm not opposed to having the work done if its needed. Clutch, pressure plate, TOB and pilot bearing is what they said they were doing. I'm sure if there's another issue they'll find it when they're in there. If clutch release is a problem they should notice right away once they're done the work I assume.

I don't have the car, it's sitting at the shop, so unfortunately I can't check some of this stuff now
You're at least installing an aftermarket clutch that can handle more torque right?
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 Old 01-10-2018, 12:09 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by JakeMS3 View Post
You're at least installing an aftermarket clutch that can handle more torque right?
LUK clutch kit. Never had a problem with the stock clutch, don't forsee having the car more than 3 or 4 more years so I only need about 80k out of this one. That'd get me to 200k
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 Old 01-10-2018, 02:02 PM   #8
 
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Some places might not resurface the dual mass. If you can't get anyone to do it, you either don't do it at all or spend about 600-800 on a new one.
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 Old 01-10-2018, 02:54 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Some places might not resurface the dual mass. If you can't get anyone to do it, you either don't do it at all or spend about 600-800 on a new one.
$514 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW6CLJO...EFYMKM99&psc=0
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 Old 01-11-2018, 03:27 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Some places might not resurface the dual mass. If you can't get anyone to do it, you either don't do it at all or spend about 600-800 on a new one.
They made it sound like they wouldn't resurface it if it came to that so yea, I'm looking at a new flywheel if the existing one can't be reused for some reason.

Originally Posted by [R
Thanks! Good to know. Also on Rockauto for the same price. Nice to see I won't have to shell out $800 for one.
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 Old 01-19-2018, 05:02 AM   #11
 
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So it did need a flywheel. Explanation I got was the flywheel went bad somehow and the flywheel actually accelerated the demise of the clutch. I don't know if that makes sense, I understand clutches OK but the flywheel is a bit of a mystery to me.

Tried to charge me $1150 for one so I bought the one available on Amazon and dropped it off this morning. Hopefully that's it and I get my car back today. Will end up costing me about $2400 for a new clutch and flywheel.
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 Old 01-19-2018, 10:04 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Ezekiel81923 View Post
So it did need a flywheel. Explanation I got was the flywheel went bad somehow and the flywheel actually accelerated the demise of the clutch. I don't know if that makes sense, I understand clutches OK but the flywheel is a bit of a mystery to me.

Tried to charge me $1150 for one so I bought the one available on Amazon and dropped it off this morning. Hopefully that's it and I get my car back today. Will end up costing me about $2400 for a new clutch and flywheel.
What clutch kit did you buy?
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 Old 01-19-2018, 10:47 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
What clutch kit did you buy?

Luk.

They picked up the Luk clutch kit when we were hoping I only needed a clutch so I'm sure I paid some kinda markup on that.

When I was quoted 1150 for the flywheel I told them I'd rather wait 2 days for Amazon to send me one instead.
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