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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:07 PM   #1
 
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Default Fuel Pump internals Install!

So this last weekend i decided to upgrade my fuel pump internals with the KMD internals i just bought. i had the install guide printed out and seemed easy. I was in the Marines and i just want to make this How to as simple as possible or dummy proof to save people moneyz.

This is my helper or second set of paws, lol


Oh and im no expert or mechanic, so let me apologize for not knowing the right name for whatever part im trying to describe.
  • 1. First thing i did was to to remove the fuse box cover next to the battery and then remove the BLUE FUSE which under the cover says CIRCUIT.
[IMG][/IMG]
2. Cold start the car and it should die after a few seconds.

3. Disconnect battery, remove the 2 nuts that hold down the bracket that keeps battery in place. i think they are 10 mm. then remove battery


4. The battery box has 3 10 mm bolts holding it down. There is also a small box attached on the left side of the battery box (dont know what it is) and has 2 cables attached to it. remove the cables and the battery box should come out.

5. Remove your SRI, CAI or stock airbox.

6. Remove TIP, this will make it so much easier to move around.


7. Optional. I removed my stock TMIC and stock BPV since i was replacing it for the ETS TMIC and the Turbosmart dualport BPV.


8. you should see the fuel pump and there are 4 lines attached to it. THREE are on TOP, one is the very top one is BLACK. under that there is a BLUE and the other YELLOW. the FOURTH line is under the fuel pump, which is made of steel or some kind of metal

Remove the 3 lines on top, some fuel might come out of the blue and yellow

Put a zip tie 1 inch under the metal bolt so that when you loosen it up, it wont fall all the way down. to loosen it up use a 17mm open rench to hold the bottom base of the FP which should NOT spin and a 19 mm open rench to turn the nut im touching clock wise to loosen


9. The fuel pump should be ready to be removed. CAREFULLY and EVENLY unscrew the 3 star shaped bolts with an E8 inverted tool.

10. once removed, put some rubber gloves. Thanks to Philly, told me not to touch the internals with my hands. here is the fuel pump removed


11. for this part you could use an extra hand and a vice grip to remove this bolt that im pointing at with my index finger, which contains the internals.


12. This is what it looks like once taken out. if the fat bottom part is in the fuel pump, use pliers i think to take it out.


13. take it apart and replace according to whatever instructions you receive, i had KMD. i know a lot of people are ordering Autotechs.


14. here are the stock internals


15. here are the KMD internals installed, yes i know i dont have gloves on, i put them on afterwards. let the parts soak in some gasoline for a few minutes and make sure nothing fell in the fuel pump. In the PDF attachment you can see how the internals are supposed to be assembled in the pump.


16. put the fuel pump back together, tighten the bolt in which the internals are in to about 40 ft/lbs torque, basically very tight. use a torque rench and install. just as you uncrewed the fuel pump evenly, you are going to tighten it evenly.


17. connect everything and put everything back together. For my directions, i was told to let the car idle for 20 mins. and take it easy on the car for 100 miles. if you have any suggestions let me know.

here is a video of the pump being taken apart and put back together. when installing the internals back in you need to watch at 8:42 secs into the video
http://www.youtube.com/embed/kMEaK__b71A

the difference is huge, it feels like a jet, but i still dont have an AP so thats a MAJOR FAIL on my part because i cant run any logs or monitor my fuel pump. But i did know i needed or would need upgraded internals.

The whole install took me about 3 hours, took my time and was very carefull because like i said, im not an expert or mechanic.

Enjoy, everyone.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CDFP Kit Install.pdf (992.0 KB, 2686 views)
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:12 PM   #2
 
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I would suggest cleaning with brake parts cleaner and then oiling the internals with fresh engine oil.... Thanks for the how to
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:14 PM   #3
 
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When did you get your KMD's..? I've been waiting like 4 months
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:17 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by xxdjfate76xx View Post
I would suggest cleaning with brake parts cleaner and then oiling the internals with fresh engine oil.... Thanks for the how to
shit, forgot to post that. i did that
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:17 PM   #5
 
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I would say removing anything except for the TMIC is unnecessary.
That's all I did, and there was plenty of room.

This is the second time I have read about not touching the internals with bare skin, can someone explain why?
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:17 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by xhymer View Post
When did you get your KMD's..? I've been waiting like 4 months
i got them from another member not a vendor
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:20 PM   #7
 
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Ahh man.. i got excited that mine were on the way haha.

Thanks for the "how-to" though.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:20 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
I would say removing anything except for the TMIC is unnecessary.
That's all I did, and there was plenty of room.

This is the second time I have read about not touching the internals with bare skin, can someone explain why?
phillyb, told me to wear gloves. i have no clue as to why you are not supposed to touch the internals
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:28 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
I would say removing anything except for the TMIC is unnecessary.
That's all I did, and there was plenty of room.

This is the second time I have read about not touching the internals with bare skin, can someone explain why?
Handle with gloves so the coating on the pump parts does not become contaminated from anything (sweat, grease, etc.) that is on your skin.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:31 PM   #10
 
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Thanks for the write-up. This was definitely needed and a great version.

Your doggy is super cool btw.

I think this should be stickied for sure.

The working environment is supposed to be super clean when you are doing the internals, so rubber gloves have been recommended randomly.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:33 PM   #11
 
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I thought the gasoline dip was a risky move because the gasoline pretty much dries it and causes more resistance?
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:51 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Instrument_Guy View Post
Handle with gloves so the coating on the pump parts does not become contaminated from anything (sweat, grease, etc.) that is on your skin.
what he said

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Thanks for the write-up. This was definitely needed and a great version.

Your doggy is super cool btw.

I think this should be stickied for sure.

The working environment is supposed to be super clean when you are doing the internals, so rubber gloves have been recommended randomly.
hahaha, thanks. my dog is a marksman

yeah, i handled everything with care and took my time.
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Last edited by rghispanic88; 03-29-2011 at 05:51 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 03-29-2011, 05:58 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Zbrit00x View Post
I thought the gasoline dip was a risky move because the gasoline pretty much dries it and causes more resistance?
Yes, but after you clean, squirt some fresh motor oil on it to lube it back up.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 06:02 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
Yes, but after you clean, squirt some fresh motor oil on it to lube it back up.
right you are sir. most of this should be covered under what ever instruction you receive with your internals. i just wanted to let people know that if you love working on your car like i do. u can probably do this yourself
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 Old 03-29-2011, 06:22 PM   #15
 
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 Old 03-29-2011, 06:35 PM   #16
 
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Great write up, I wish I had more tools and knowledge to do my internals myself!
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 Old 03-29-2011, 06:48 PM   #17
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nice write up.
some of this is unnecessary, but that's ok.
i've pulled that pump about 20 times - battery box, inlet, tmic still in the engine bay.
shit, i've pulled it without pulling the fuse.
fuck it.
lol
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #18
 
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im a newbie, did what i could
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:01 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
nice write up.
i've pulled that pump about 20 times - battery box, inlet, tmic still in the engine bay.
shit, i've pulled it without pulling the fuse.
fuck it.
lol
Cool story bro!
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:07 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by rghispanic88 View Post
im a newbie, did what i could
you did an awesome write up
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:12 PM   #21
 
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thanks, like i said. tried to make it as simple as possible so that anyone can do it.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:20 PM   #22
 
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Thanks for the write up. Good pics.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 07:50 PM   #23
 
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Looking forward to doing the install now when I get the internals... This is great.
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 Old 03-29-2011, 08:05 PM   #24
 
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Thanks for the write up OP. Bookmarked for when I do mine.
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 Old 03-30-2011, 08:03 PM   #25
 
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nice write up....will follow this when the time comes!
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 Old 03-30-2011, 11:09 PM   #26
 
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Krystm's Garage – Mazda 3 Mods and More! » Cam Driven Fuel Pump (CDFP) Internals Install

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 Old 04-13-2011, 04:08 PM   #27
 
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would the upgraded internals require any tuning or just use as is?
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 Old 04-13-2011, 05:00 PM   #28
 
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Got a few pics to add from my Autotech Internals install.

Autotech vs. Stock






Also Noticed some scaring on the inside of the seal holder. It's more like soot because it cleans out with brake cleaner and Q-tips.
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Last edited by DingoDave; 04-13-2011 at 10:06 PM. Reason: typos
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 Old 04-13-2011, 05:47 PM   #29
 
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yeah, thats what mine had.

got any pics of the internals already IN the FP? close up pic.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 05:59 PM   #30
 
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[quote=DingoDave;808274]Got a few pics to add from my Autotech Internals install.

Autotech vs. Stock



you're wearing rubber gloves but you're placing the parts on a piece of shag carpet?!?
subbed for the "wtf i think my pump is seized" post.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 06:53 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by ruthless013 View Post
you're wearing rubber gloves but you're placing the parts on a piece of shag carpet?!?
subbed for the "wtf i think my pump is seized" post.
That "shag carpet" was a towel that was clean before I put the internals on it. Everything was cleaned thoroughly with non-chlorinated contact cleaner and oiled before reinstallation. I'll be fine.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:05 PM   #32
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Great Write Up!! I know I'll be doing this eventually.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:19 PM   #33
 
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What should you not use to clean the internals before putting it in? I was planning on using brake parts cleaner. Is gasoline ok? Don't you need to use oil after gas too?

Edit: Also, what gloves are not ok for the install?

Thanks in advance!
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:20 PM   #34
 
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I think it is a no on gas, but brake cleaner is good.
Yes, oil after cleaning with fresh motor oil.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:35 PM   #35
 
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so is getting internals just as good as changing the fuel pump?
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:44 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by Smily27 View Post
so is getting internals just as good as changing the fuel pump?
Correct. That's what CP-E does... They just grab a fuel pump core from Mazda or one returned from a buyer and then they put new high performance internals in. The reason they charge so much is because they have a lifetime warranty on them and they do all the installation.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:48 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 View Post
Correct. That's what CP-E does... They just grab a fuel pump core from Mazda or one returned from a buyer and then they put new high performance internals in. The reason they charge so much is because they have a lifetime warranty on them and they do all the installation.
well fuck that...i didnt know that...im just going to buy the internals, they seem pretty easy to install..and im assuming a lot cheaper...i like this forum more and more everyday
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:57 PM   #38
 
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the internals are expensive as hell...i rather buy the cp-e one and send in mine and only pay about 260-280 and get a lifetime warranty
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 Old 04-13-2011, 08:14 PM   #39
 
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Well that's probably the reason cp-e never has pumps in stock...

When I took the pump out I was pissed I didn't just get the internals though, the swap is seriously that easy.

CP-E uses APR internals, which you can't buy by themselves. But you can get to the pump out w/o removing anything besides the TMIC cover first. Just make sure you pull the fuse in this outline and bleed some pressure from the pump.

Your choice is get internals, change them, and have a good HPFP vs.

order the cp-e pump

wait

install the pump (as easy as internals)

send back your stocker

wait

get your core refund

The core charge/refund will play a big part in this, b/c it's $1000 for the cp-e up front. You get the ~$400 core charge back only after waiting for a while.

IMO, if you do the install reasonably well (again, it isn't that hard), there isn't a good reason to get the cp-e aside from the lifetime warranty. Yeah, it's nice if you're gonna keep your MS3 until dec 21st, 2012 (when the world ends - people who have a poor understanding of physics/math/the universe promise it's for real this time), but if you plan on selling your car, it's a sunk cost either way.

Idk, kmd just released a new coating for their internals, autotech internals are good, etc. I'd go with internals if I were to do it again. Warranties are for armless children. WINNING.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Smily27 View Post
the internals are expensive as hell...i rather buy the cp-e one and send in mine and only pay about 260-280 and get a lifetime warranty
Guess again. The core charge is on top of the $667 price you pay for the CP-E pump.
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