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 Old 01-13-2012, 10:17 PM   #1
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Post HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH

HOW-TO MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH




This was done on a genpu, the gen1 requires the exactly the same procedures. This is meant to be a helpful walk through for doing a clutch swap on a MS3. This job should be performed ONLY BY PROFFECIONAL EXPERIENCED TECHNICIANS. I’m not liable for any mistakes you make, following this guide, which is probably not 100% accurate. This is probably a 12hr job according to Mazda, but it can be accomplished in <5hrs if you know what you’re doing.



Tools Required:
Socket Wrenches
Socket Sizes Used Most:
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
19mm
21mm
24mm
Ratcheting Wrenches(not necessary, but helpful):
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
Torque Wrenches
A Decent Screwdriver Set
Pry-Bars
Very Tall Jack Stands or a Lift
Transmission or Motorcycle Jack
Good Set of Pliers
Various Pieces of Wood
Hammers

Other Miscellaneous Hardware:
Brake-Clean
Grease
Thread-Lock
New Flywheel Bolts
New Trans Fluid
Rags, Towels, etc.
Coat Hangers, Rope, Wire, etc.
Drain Pan
Die-Grinder
Air Tools, Impact Guns
Piece of cardboard, and marker(to keep track of bolts)

Recommended to Replace:
Flywheel Bolts
Driveshaft Seals
Driveshaft C-Clip(only 1)


First, start by jacking the car in the air, or using a lift if you have one.





Begin by removing the undertray, front wheels, intake, battery, battery box, ECU, basically everything above the transmission.

Remove the brackets for the wiring harness and shift cables on the top of the trans, there is 3 brackets show here, all are being held on by 2 bolts IIRC:



Unbolt the coolant hard pipe running above the trans, as to access the trans bolts later, it’s held on by one 10mm nut on the front of the engine above the starter, and one 10mm bolt above the bellhousing towards the back of the engine:



Unclip the electrical connectors from the trans, located on a bracket on the front of the engine:





Remove the slave cylinder, from the bellhousing, two 12mm bolts, no need to remove the slave from the fluid line:



Next, drain all the trans fluid. Crack the fill plug first, just to make sure it will come out later. The fill plug is located on the front of the trans and, drain plug is located on the side of the trans, shown here

Fill:


Drain:


Now begin tearing into the brakes and suspension. Remove the front calipers, held on by two 17mm bolts, and remove the rotors. Hang the calipers by the springs with some rope/wire.

Now remove the tie-rod safety pin then the 14mm nut:



Put the nut on the stud, and whack the nut till the tie rod is free from the knuckle:



Remove the upper sway-bar end-link nut, remove the end-link from the strut and put the nut on it, so you don’t lose it(14mm and some metric hex key size… I just zip these off with an impact, since they’re usually rusted to shit and don’t want to come off. If all else fails, cut the end-link off and buy new ones):



Remove the lower ball-joint bolt nut(14mm):



Remove the strut bolt(17mm):



It’s now time to free the strut from the knuckle. First take out a big hammer and pound on the knuckle shown here:



Do this until the knuckle moves down about 1cm. This will allow you now to pry the knuckle open and slide it off the strut. It needs to go down about 1cm, because the strut has a protruding piece of metal as to align it in the knuckle. Now you take some random piece of metal roughly ¼” thick and place it where the strut bolt goes. I’ve used this tiny wrench for my air grinder, as well as big washers, or pieces of metal I have laying around. Thread in the strut bolt the opposite way so it can press up against the piece of metal, effectively prying the knuckle open:





Take a pry bar and pry down on the knuckle to free it from the strut:


Thanks Daniel “silvapain” for this trick

Now it’s time to separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle. I’m sure with Mazda’s special tool, or a ball joint separator, it would be easier, but it can be done pretty simply with other methods. With the bolt out, the ball joint should come right out of the knuckle, but it being a very tight fit and some corrosion can lead to it being a bit difficult.

Support the hub with a jack-stand.



Then take a hammer and start pounding on the lower control arm, around where the ball joint is. Work at it till the ball joint is almost free. Use a pry bar, or lift up on the knuckle, to remove the knuckle.



Now that the hub/knuckle assembly is removed from the surrounding suspension components, it’s time to remove the axles.

We’ll start with the right axle, there is a joint shaft bracket that needs to be unbolted from the block, held in by 3 bolts.



Here’s a better pic of the joint shaft bracket, and it’s location:



Now the axle can be removed from the transmission. It helps to have a friend hold the axle level, while you can pry the axle out. The prying actions is as goes: use a pry bar, and with a jerking motion pry against the raised edge of the axle, in short bursts, to literally pop the axle out of the trans.



Once the axle/hub assembly is removed, from the trans, set it aside.

Do the same on the left side of the vehicle, and pop the axle out.

Some people say it’s not necessary to remove the subframe to pull the trans. It honestly does not need to be removed, I’ve done a clutch job before with the subframe in place. However, you will save yourself many hours of frustration, by removing it. Why? A portion of the subframe site right underneath the differential, and you’ll spend more time trying to wiggle the trans out of a very tight space. Plus the subframe takes 15min to remove.

Begin with the cross bar behind the subframe, IIRC this is where the bolts are located. The 14mm bolts shown in green, the 14mm nuts shown in yellow, and the one 10mm bolt that supports the fuel line shield portion of the cross bar in red:





Unhook the rubber exhaust hangers that connect the exhaust to the subframe, location in green:



Remove the heat shield on the powersteering rack(red arrow), three 10mm bolts. Then unbolt the powersteering rack from the subframe, three 19mm bolts(shown in green):



Here’s a pic of how to get the center bolt, from the rear of the car:



Here’s a pic from the shop manual:



Now with the rack unbolted, use bungee cords or zip ties, to secure the rack to the exhaust so it doesn’t fall with the subframe.

Unbolt the RMM from the trans:



Now it’s time to unbolt the subframe from the car. CAUTION! The subframe is heavy, support it on jacks/jackstands and have a friend on each side ready to pull it out, once unbolted from the vehicle.

There are 4 main bolts(front 19mm, rear 17mm), indicated in this pic:



Use extensions through the holes in the LCAs to get at the front two bolts:



Remove the 12mm bolts of the support brackets, shown in green, then remove the 17mm subframe bolt, shown in red. Do the same on the other side.



Now that the subframe is detached from the vehicle, lower it slowly, making sure everything is disconnected, and move it from underneath the vehicle. You’ll have to move the FSB/endlinks and tie-rods around so they don’t get caught up on each other.

Time to remove the trans mount. First support the engine as well as trans with whatever methods you have, leave room to remove the lover bellhousing bolts later, or skip a few steps, and pull out the lower bolts now:



This car had a CP-E trans mount at the time of this install. If you have a different aftermarket mount, refer to the supplier instructions, on how to remove it. Here’s how to remove the OEM mount.

Begin with the battery support, held in by two 10mm bolts(pink), and four 17mm bolts(blue).
Next remove the 17mm bolt(red), and pull out the top portion of the mount.
Unbolt the three 17mm bolts/nuts(green), and remove the lower portion of the mount.



For better pics, refer to Jamie’s site: http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

Now it’s time to remove the eleven 14mm bolts securing the bellhousing to the block:



Some are hard to get at, so use extensions, and swivel sockets:







Keep the bolts organized as you remove them, so you know where they go upon re-installing:



Yay! Now with all the bellhousing bolts removed, it’s time to get this extremely heavy trans out of the way. Being by lowering the jacks supporting the motor and the trans, in conjunction, to clear the trans from the frame. Use a pry bar to pry the trans away from the block, do this evenly around the bellhousing:



Keep working the trans away from the engine, by pulling it from the wheel well on left side of the car. Once the input shaft is slid out from the clutch assembly, and the trans is free from everything, lower the trans from the car:





Slide the trans from underneath the car, to access the clutch assembly:







Now it’s time to remove the six 10mm pressure plate bolts. If you intend on re-using the stock PP, follow these steps. If not, impact it off. First insert the clutch alignment tool into the center of the clutch assembly, and remove the bolts in a crisscross sequence, to properly release tension of the PP. Bolts shown in red:



Pull away the clutch PP, to access the flywheel. Use a 12mm socket to remove the 6 flywheel bolts(these bolts are not intended to be re-used due to the factory applied thread lock):



Here’s the rear main seal, inspect it for leaks, replace if necessary:



Remove and replace the throw-out bearing, first by unclipping the clutch fork from the ball stud of the trans assembly, by pulling or pushing on this spring:




INSTALLATION PROCEDURES AND TQ SPECS:

Install the new bearing, clean/grease where it connects to the fork, clean/grease the ball stud for the fork, and clean/grease the input shaft:



Install the flywheel along with new bolts. Use either the Mazda SST, or a pry bar, to lock the FW in place:



Install the clutch disc, according to the writing on the actual disc not the shop manual(it’s backwards), and pressure plate using the alignment tool, torque the pressure plate down in the sequence shown here:







Remove the alignment tool.

Now install the transmission. Jack it up underneath the car, once the input shaft is lined up, slide the trans towards the block making sure the input shaft goes into the clutch assembly without binding.

With the input shaft in, push and lift the trans towards the block, align the holes on the trans to the alignment tabs on the block(blue arrows):



With the trans lined up and on the block, begin threading in the bolts, get them all hand tight, then tighten in a crisscross pattern down to spec:



From here, install is reverse of removal. Here are some important TQ specs:








That’s it folks!

Thanks to @Ckmazdaspeed3 for this bitch of a how to, and having to do this 3 times. Thanks to @silvapain for taking away time from his family to help with the install. It took me twice as long to write this guide as it toke us to do this job.

Why did it take us 3 times? Well, we installed the clutch properly the first time, got everything back together and the car would not go into gear properly, as if the clutch was not disengaging properly with the pedal depressed. I thought the clutch disc was installed backwards, because I was tired and forgot to check the orientation it was installed. We pulled everything back apart, and installed the clutch disc according to the shop manual. Same problem, but not as bad, the car would engage 1st gear, and other gears at very low RPM(below 2000k). Pulled everything back apart, found the clutch was engaging due to the disc being backwards, and the tighter clearances between the disc and FW. The springs on the clutch disc were acting as the friction material, rubbing against the FW, around the mounting bolts(shown below). We took the new assembly and the OEM assembly, bolted/torqued the PP to the FW on my counter, to find that the new PP was not set properly, by the PP fingers not being at the same height. It was a self-adjusting-PP, where it needs to be set to the new components, in a press. We installed the OEM components, and the car drove perfectly fine. The reason the clutch slipped in the first place… the rear main seal was leaking near where the oil pan gasket and the seal meet.






Fun pics!!!





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Last edited by MATT DAMOND; 10-10-2012 at 03:02 PM.
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 Old 01-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #2
 
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You forgot the alternative for putting the tranny back... Get a big black guy to bench press it into place.

Matt, you look really creepy (like a child molester) in those last photos.

Great write up. I hope you can make it to the motor install!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 03:36 AM   #3
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This is an epic thread! Holy shit! The detail is amazing. Think it's the same for gen1?
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 Old 01-14-2012, 04:19 AM   #4
 
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Pick of his head coming through the battery hole in the car, only thing I can think of is the Shining.

Duper detailed write-up. Thank you for taking the time to do it. I can't say I'll ever have to do this, but I like to think that eventually I may need to. And this'll really come in handy.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 04:26 AM   #5
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i would never attempt this myself but now i appreciate the intense work that goes into this job.

fantastic write up as always and thanks for the contributions over the years!!!!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:18 AM   #6
 
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Fuck me, epic write-up. I always considered a clutch replacement as too difficult to DIY, but your write-up shows it's not hard... just long and tedious. I think I could tackle this now if I took my time and had some NATOR assistance.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:20 AM   #7
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I'm thinking the same thing. A trip to Harbor Freight for some more tools first, though.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:23 AM   #8
 
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Awesome write up! This will come in handy down the road. Thank you!!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:52 AM   #9
 
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I'm sorry if I didn't catch it but what kind of clutch did you try to install and it didn't work?
Couldn't believe the markings from the disc springs!
I take it that whole clutch is fukt now?
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:11 AM   #10
 
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THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

This will be helpfull to Lot of bronnies like me. Always something I wanted to do for my self.

Please keep up with the Great work. This will make our forum a unique Mazda ressource out there.

TYVM!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:13 AM   #11
 
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Awesome, eagle motorsports organic?
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 Old 01-14-2012, 07:32 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
I'm sorry if I didn't catch it but what kind of clutch did you try to install and it didn't work?
Couldn't believe the markings from the disc springs!
I take it that whole clutch is fukt now?
Eagle motor sports. Everything is refurbished stock parts iirc, except it is their own friction plate material... This is my dd, so I need something that will feel similar to stock. Luckily, after two fails, we were able to clean the stocker well enough to reuse... A small oil leak was causing it to slip.

The damage was superficial and the parts were sent back to EM and the pressure plate was reset. My motor blew a couple of weeks ago and is being built right now so we will see if this works when I put the new motor in (arp studs, k1 rods, wiseco pistons and port and polished head).



Anybody that is intimidated by this (not talking about u spnkr) if you have time and patience, and some help and beer, give it a try. I had never even worked on a car before just over a year ago. And when we took out my motor I was able to do almost everything (taking the tranny out is the hardest part) after doing this with Matt and silvapain a few months ago.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 07:43 AM   #13
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Great write up.
I don't know about dropping the engine cradle though. I didn't do that and things worked out fine.

Edit: Now that I read this in more detail dropping the sub frame seems like a good idea. I do remember I suffered intensely trying to wiggle the gear box out of there. I like the idea of using zip ties to keep the steering rack in place. Fucking win.

Just a couple of notes from my experience:

1. The passenger side axle does not need to be pried out. It slides out easily.
2. The driver's side axle has a snap ring which keeps it pretty tight in place. I used a chisel and with the flat side against the CV joint and the shaft against the gear box tapped it out. You can also hit it with a bar and hammer through the passenger side of the gear box once that shaft is of. I tried that and wasn't successful so I used the chisel.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 08:02 AM   #14
 
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Amazing write up guys. Info will be handy next weekend as Nator TN/KY will be doing this on a MS3 and a MS6. How much more difficult will a 6 be versus the 3? thanks.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 08:06 AM   #15
 
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@Tomas Silvapains advice worked great for me a couple weeks ago when I pulled my motor (this was the only major hang up). Just grab the axle on either side of the cv and make a few sharp jerks... Comes out in under 5 seconds for the driver side axle. I know u don't need to know how, just saying the easy way I did it.

Originally Posted by greenespeed View Post
Amazing write up guys. Info will be handy next weekend as Nator TN/KY will be doing this on a MS3 and a MS6. How much more difficult will a 6 be versus the 3? thanks.
Someone will be able to clarify better I'm sure, but it is A LOT harder on a six.

Originally Posted by Raider View Post
This is an epic thread! Holy shit! The detail is amazing. Think it's the same for gen1?
I think it is the same for gendone, but I'm positive that the hardest parts (suspension and tranny itself) are the same.

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 Old 01-14-2012, 09:00 AM   #16
 
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excellent write-up!
Thanks for the blood, cursing & effort that you've shared!

I'm taking away the opinion to treat this as several smaller easier jobs, rather than one big badass mutha of a job. Before you know it, the trans is on the floor.

I'm also glad to see the info on what NOT to do regarding the clutch parts assembly on the car. THAN YOU for sacrificing the time to do the job three times & get it straight, and share with us what didn't work and why! That info is worth it's weight in gold, just as much as the rest of the write-up.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 02:13 PM   #17
 
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Excellent write-up Matt.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 02:43 PM   #18
 
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great write up! it's peeps like you that make this forum the best. real info, bitches!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #19
 
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Wow, great write up. In your experience is this as hard as an intake install?

That intake was a bitch.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 03:53 PM   #20
 
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hehe he's riding a tranny. good write up though.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 04:12 PM   #21
 
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Kick ass Matt! Excellent write-up. God you're one sexy ginger
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:28 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by MATT DAMOND View Post



So sexy. I want a MATT DAMOND transmission mount
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 Old 01-14-2012, 05:55 PM   #23
 
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Holy fuck, I had no idea a clutch swap was so involved.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:12 PM   #24
 
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holy Jesus h Christ you don't have to pull the k frame lol

good write up though
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #25
 
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awesome write up. funny too.
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:32 PM   #26
 
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Wow great work! Nice write up!
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 Old 01-14-2012, 06:37 PM   #27
 
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bottom pinch bolt, axle nut, pry down on A arm, and pull out on the knuckle, pull the axle out, out of the knuckle then pop it out of the trans , and the hole damn thing can hang their and leave the k frame in much easier...
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 Old 01-16-2012, 06:53 AM   #28
 
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@Raider pulled mine out yesterday and everything was the same for a Genwon. @MATT DAMOND big thanks for the write up it's awesome and @silvapain for the trick with the struts. Thanks again guys this worked out great.
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 Old 02-01-2012, 08:45 PM   #29
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Great write up and epic pics
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 Old 02-01-2012, 10:02 PM   #30
 
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Wow just Wow Can't wait to do this project
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 Old 02-02-2012, 10:32 PM   #31
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Sorry Matt I couldn't help myself....
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 Old 02-10-2012, 05:35 AM   #32
 
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Matt you're wearing $25 mechanic gloves and $5 sandals

I has confused.
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 Old 02-10-2012, 05:50 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by helmetfail View Post
Matt you're wearing $25 mechanic gloves and $5 sandals

I has confused.

Has his priorities in order
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 Old 02-10-2012, 06:01 AM   #34
 
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if you pull the k frame you have to have your alignment done jfyi
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 Old 02-10-2012, 07:34 AM   #35
 
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Shit gets DONE in that garage man! Badass!

I literally laughed out loud when I saw that Matt D SRI pic lol
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 Old 03-09-2012, 06:54 AM   #36
 
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thanks a shit-ton for this stellar write up. r&r of this tranny looks significantly more of a pain in the ass compared to a honda b-series, which i've done several times. i don't think i'll be dropping the ms3 tranny onto my chest like i did the honda.




trannys dropping on my chest. thats right i said it.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 08:31 AM   #37
 
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Here is an alternative method for reinstalling the transmission on the engine:

Instead of using a jack to lift the transmission back into place, use a cherry picker and a strap.







I believe thanks go out to @GLORIFIEDBOZO for this idea.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 09:18 AM   #38
 
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So did Clint's clutch go smoothly/as planned yesterday? Sorry I couldn't make it down...
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 Old 04-01-2012, 01:24 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 View Post
So did Clint's clutch go smoothly/as planned yesterday? Sorry I couldn't make it down...
For the most part. We had trouble with his front suspension; some pieces just didn't want to come apart. Otherwise it went without fail.

That reminds me: another thing to note on the clutch install is to use Moly Grease or similar high-temp grease on the collar for the throwout bearing. DO NOT USE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE as it cannot withstand the temperatures, and will eventually turn into a gummy substance that will bind the TOB.

We believe this was the issue with @phate's clutch getting harder to press and he went through the gears at WOT.


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 Old 04-03-2012, 12:18 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
For the most part. We had trouble with his front suspension; some pieces just didn't want to come apart. Otherwise it went without fail.

That reminds me: another thing to note on the clutch install is to use Moly Grease or similar high-temp grease on the collar for the throwout bearing. DO NOT USE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE as it cannot withstand the temperatures, and will eventually turn into a gummy substance that will bind the TOB.

We believe this was the issue with @phate's clutch getting harder to press and he went through the gears at WOT.


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Exactly how high of a tempature rating are you thinking? I was curious about this as I did Matt's clutch this weekend. I will have to look at what I used when I get home.
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