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 Old 02-18-2012, 07:11 PM   #1
 
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Default How to repair stripped rmm nut with helical thread repair kit

I stripped the nut on the subframe for the vertical bolt that is inserted in the rear motor mount. Don't know how this happened because I am very careful about not cross threading nuts and using the specified torque. But oh well, shit happens, lol.

It all started when I started getting slightly more vibration and deeper exhaust drone. The changes were very subtle, but noticeable. At first I tried using blue loctite, split lock washer and a nord lock washer, but nothing worked. @jbarone advised me to take a look at the nut whenever I tried something different to keep the bolt from loosening. The last fix I tried using the nord lock washer did not hold, and when I checked the nut, there was a piece of thread sticking out from the bottom of the nut. I pulled it out and knew it was fucked! Here is the piece that I pulled out:





Anyway, on the bright side, I did learn how to repair a stripped nut using a helical repair kit. I know there are other ways to fix this issue but I thought I would use this method. This is the first time I've ever done this so feel free to comment and add any useful tips.

So I purchased a Powercoil helical repair kit (m12 x 1.25) from Grainger. Here are pics of the kit:







The first step was to use the included 31/64 drill bit to clean out the nut. Be sure you have a 1/2" drill. I now have a nice new Dewalt 1/2" drill because of this, lol. Fortunately, the drill bit fits through the lower subframe hole. Be sure to wear safety glasses because pieces of metal will fly out. I also put some oil on the bit.






Next, use the tap and thread the nut for the new coil. You need to supply your own tap wrench. I also put some oil on the tap.





Next, insert the coil insert tool through the hole in the subframe, then attach the collar that holds up the new coil and tighten the grub screw on the collar.





Place the new coil on the insert tool. Note that I did not trim the coil and kept it at the 18mm length out of the box. This makes it easier to thread the bolt. On my first attempt, I did trim the coil but the bottom of the coil would not go all the way in the hole. So I pulled it out and said fuck it, I'll just leave it a little long. It doesn't stick out very far. The experts will groan at me for this but it worked in the end so I'm fine with it.





Finally, insert the new coil into the nut and thread it in. There is a "tang" at the top of the coil that is supposed to be broken off. I tried a few times and couldn't break it. Doesnt matter. I forgot to take a pic of the new coil in the nut.

I then reinstalled the rmm and torqued everything down. Yes!! Now I can drive the car again and make more WOT logs!

Hopefully this is useful to y'all. The kit cost me about $75 and it comes with 10 coils. Big thanks to Jamie for listening to my various "fixes" for the loose rmm bolt. He was the one that pointed out that the nut was probably the issue. I was always able to torque down the bolt until the last time when the thread finally came out.


Summary: bigriver stripped nut. fixed with powercoil m12x1.25 helical thread repair kit. back in business.

Tools:

safety glasses
small screwdriver (for grub screw on insert tool collar)
1/2" drill
large tap wrench (for 12+mm tap)
Powercoil m12x1.25 thread repair kit (includes 31/64 drill bit, tap, insert tool and 10 coils).
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 Old 02-19-2012, 05:14 AM   #2
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Damn fine job sir.

This "how to" can be applied to so many situations; thanks for posting.

Jamie
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 Old 02-19-2012, 05:53 AM   #3
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I'll send msf bucks $500,000 your way when I get on a puter.

Great thread!
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 Old 02-19-2012, 11:36 AM   #4
 
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Thanks guys!

I think the problem is that the threads on the nut are weak. Since I was able to pull out most of the old thread intact, it looks like it was shearing/vibration force that stripped it out. After I torqued down the bolt, I even marked the bolt head and the subframe to see if the bolt was backing out. The marks matched up perfectly so the bolt was not moving. When I tried retorqueing it, the bolt was loose. Really not much I could have done to prevent it I guess. This was really strange.
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 Old 02-19-2012, 11:50 AM   #5
 
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Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up. Great pics btw.
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 Old 04-05-2012, 01:24 PM   #6
 
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Great writeup big river. I sent you a pm about some assistance. I am low on funds after purchasing Jamies Trilogy mount kit . Is it possible to put in a longer bolt and a lock nut above the threads?
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 Old 04-05-2012, 01:59 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Great writeup big river. I sent you a pm about some assistance. I am low on funds after purchasing Jamies Trilogy mount kit . Is it possible to put in a longer bolt and a lock nut above the threads?
I've read some posts where guys have done that but finding the bolt and nut is the issue. The nut has to be small enough to fit in that space above the welded nut. You also need the proper grade of bolt as well and will likely have to cut the bolt to fit since most standard sizes are too long. So if you have to drill out the welded nut anyway, might as well do it the right way with the helicoil and not worry about it down the road. I can help you fix it this weekend or you can borrow my kit if you need it sooner. I replied to your PM so give me a call or text me and let me know what you want to do.
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 Old 04-08-2012, 01:40 AM   #8
 
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Ok. Did the rmm stripped nut repair on @himurax13 ms3 yesterday. The threads were also stripped clean.

So some other notes are to use a lift or something that will get the car up high enough to fit the drill and long drill bit. We used my race ramps. See pics



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 Old 04-08-2012, 06:04 AM   #9
 
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A right angle drill would help too, to break the tang use a screwdriver and smack it with a hammer or a nice punch would be the correct tool. Nice write up, when doing repairs it is hard to document usually more concerned with the fix. So Kudos to you Sir!
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 Old 04-08-2012, 08:38 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by kritz View Post
A right angle drill would help too, to break the tang use a screwdriver and smack it with a hammer or a nice punch would be the correct tool. Nice write up, when doing repairs it is hard to document usually more concerned with the fix. So Kudos to you Sir!
Thanks! Yes a right angle drill would have been perfect. I have one but I think its a 3/8". If its a 1/2" I'm a retard because I bought a new drill lol. I didnt even think of using a screwdriver. Awesome!
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 Old 04-09-2012, 11:01 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by bigriver View Post
Ok. Did the rmm stripped nut repair on @himurax13 ms3 yesterday. The threads were also stripped clean.

So some other notes are to use a lift or something that will get the car up high enough to fit the drill and long drill bit. We used my race ramps. See pics



Stripped clean? It looked like a smoothbored hole.
Bigriver, what about the other pic with the helical installed?

Its nice to know Mazda uses bolts that are stronger than the threads. Without Bigriver, I would have been totally screwed.

Of course, after Big River leaves the mailman decided to drop off the James Barone 88 Durometer Motor mounts.

So I spent 4 hours installing the RMM and PMM. Everything seems to line up and is torqued down properly.

The car is now a totally different animal. It feels like a rumbling racecar and I don't need to worry about the RMM bolt falling out.
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 Old 04-09-2012, 11:10 AM   #12
 
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so... he's the one who did it for you.. nice!
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 Old 04-09-2012, 11:28 AM   #13
 
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@himurax13 Glad you got the rmm and pmm installed! That is awesome.

Here's the pic of the repaired nut with the helicoil inside.

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 Old 04-09-2012, 12:46 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Oliverms3 View Post
so... he's the one who did it for you.. nice!
Bigriver is a nice guy, but I think Corona is a bit far for our weekly meets.

Now if I could get a hand on this pesky Transmission motor mount install. I finally got a decent jack and a torque wrench.
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 Old 04-09-2012, 02:07 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Bigriver is a nice guy, but I think Corona is a bit far for our weekly meets.

Now if I could get a hand on this pesky Transmission motor mount install. I finally got a decent jack and a torque wrench.
If you can wait, I can help you on April 28 or 29. I'm busy at work the next two weekends. But really, the tmm is not hard at all. The only thing I would add to the jbr guide is to break the oem bushing bolt loose while the car is on the ground in case you have to put some muscle into it. It may get sketchy if the car is raised and you try to wrestle with that bolt. And like I mentioned, be careful with the bolts on the tranny housing.
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 Old 04-10-2012, 09:25 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by bigriver View Post
If you can wait, I can help you on April 28 or 29. I'm busy at work the next two weekends. But really, the tmm is not hard at all. The only thing I would add to the jbr guide is to break the oem bushing bolt loose while the car is on the ground in case you have to put some muscle into it. It may get sketchy if the car is raised and you try to wrestle with that bolt. And like I mentioned, be careful with the bolts on the tranny housing.
Hmm, another detail that is nice to know. Is that the bolt that needs to be torqued down to 120 lbs?
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 Old 04-10-2012, 09:44 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Hmm, another detail that is nice to know. Is that the bolt that needs to be torqued down to 120 lbs?
Yes, this is the single bolt in the bushing on the oem mount. Just need to break it loose. Then remove completely after car is raised and tranny is supported by a jack.
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 Old 02-28-2014, 12:08 AM   #18
 
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I have to revive this thread because as @himurax13; helped me verify tonight, my RMM bolt hole is stripped. I know @bigriver; is no longer active on here, but if there is anyone in the L.A. Metro area that can help me do this if I buy this kit. I don't have a proper jack, jack stands, ramps, or even a drill. And I most certainly don't have a lift. Please let me know if there's anyone out there who can help me. Only thing holding the bolt in there right now is some red Loctite and prayers. Only other thing holding the engine in place are OEM PMM & TMM. They won't last long like this. Please and thank you.
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 Old 02-28-2014, 02:39 AM   #19
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You need too not post here, but in NATOR SoCal, son.
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 Old 06-28-2014, 02:26 PM   #20
 
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I used this same repair kit on my pmm threads yesterday, it was a pita, but worked out great
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 Old 11-10-2014, 09:50 AM   #21
 
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Thanks for this thread with photos! I just ordered this same kit but from Zoro Tools for $55 shipped. My rmm main stud is also stripped out. I got under my car yesterday to retrieve a nut that I dropped and I saw the rmm stud sticking half way out of the hole so I figured I better torque it down. Went to tighten it up and it stopped at about mid resistance and then just kept spinning with no more meat to grab. I tried tapping it again with the same pitch and no go! Did a quick google search and this thread popped up and i'll be doing my first helicoil patch this week. Thanks for the great photos, I feel confident this will be an easy fix. I already got the dewalt drill and a tap wrench so i'm good to go. Will post results when this is complete.
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**6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3
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 Old 11-10-2014, 10:52 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by Matrix311 View Post
Thanks for this thread with photos! I just ordered this same kit but from Zoro Tools for $55 shipped. My rmm main stud is also stripped out. I got under my car yesterday to retrieve a nut that I dropped and I saw the rmm stud sticking half way out of the hole so I figured I better torque it down. Went to tighten it up and it stopped at about mid resistance and then just kept spinning with no more meat to grab. I tried tapping it again with the same pitch and no go! Did a quick google search and this thread popped up and i'll be doing my first helicoil patch this week. Thanks for the great photos, I feel confident this will be an easy fix. I already got the dewalt drill and a tap wrench so i'm good to go. Will post results when this is complete.
This link below might also prove helpful. It was my journey of repairing all 4 bolt holes that got stripped. Hopefully it helps, and good luck with your repair.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...t-hole-165402/
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 Old 11-11-2014, 07:52 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by The Nut View Post
This link below might also prove helpful. It was my journey of repairing all 4 bolt holes that got stripped. Hopefully it helps, and good luck with your repair.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...t-hole-165402/
So it looks like you two were successful in replacing the vertical rmm stud that screws into the subframe but were not able to hammer out the 3 holes that go into the transmission. Any extra advice you can give me for when I do just the rmm stud since thats all I have to do?
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**3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno
**6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3
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 Old 11-11-2014, 12:05 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Matrix311 View Post
So it looks like you two were successful in replacing the vertical rmm stud that screws into the subframe but were not able to hammer out the 3 holes that go into the transmission. Any extra advice you can give me for when I do just the rmm stud since thats all I have to do?
Actually, if you look in the previous post I attached a link to my personal thread on how all 4 bolt hole repairs were done. (Holes on tranny were technically done by Eric the Bolt Guy, but is well documented with the necessary repair kits that need to be ordered whether your doing the one verticle bolt hole your trying to repair, or the 3 on the tranny.
For yours, it couldn't be more straight for ward.
-Get car up on lift (can be done on ramps or Jack stands, but I don't suggest it for easy clearance of drill and long but needing clearance for proper angle.
-use included bit in kit to drill out old thread hole in sub frame.
-re-tap with included tap tool. Follow instructions for proper installation of helicoil.
-put RMM back in place and reinsert bolt. Helicoils generally make the bolt hole good for 25ft lbs of Tq wrench pressure over OEM, so you'll know the work has actually improved the vehicle.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have and more questions.
Post #15 in that thread shows the kit you need.
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 Old 11-12-2014, 08:32 PM   #25
 
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All done! Kit came in via ups this afternoon and I completed the job in about 15 minutes. Was able to torque down the rmm stud bolt and all is back to normal.

Used same kit as in op. Bought from zoro tools for $55.




Finished with new threads in place.


Thanks so much to op guy. I hear he's not on msf anymore but if you ever read this thread again you saved me big time. Msf ftw again.
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2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14**

**9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp
**11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success!
**3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno
**6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3
**7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package
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 Old 11-12-2014, 09:46 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by Matrix311 View Post
All done! Kit came in via ups this afternoon and I completed the job in about 15 minutes. Was able to torque down the rmm stud bolt and all is back to normal.

Used same kit as in op. Bought from zoro tools for $55.




Finished with new threads in place.


Thanks so much to op guy. I hear he's not on msf anymore but if you ever read this thread again you saved me big time. Msf ftw again.

Easy peasy
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Go: Cobb- AP(v2)//AT- Internals//ETS- TMIC//CorkSport- True 3" Intake/Camber Plates/BPV/Boost Tubes/Recirc Tube//Denso- ITV22's//NATOR- TP//JBR- 80a Duro TMM & PMM/SSP/Counterweight/Anchors//CP-E- Stage II RMM//Tri-Point- RSB w/Monster Endlinks//GT-Spec- 4 Points Ladder Brace/Mid Chassis Brace/Front 4-Point Brace/Front & Rear Lower Tie Bar/Trunk Reinforcement Brace//Bosch- 3 Bar MAP Sensor//Technafit- SS Brake Lines//KW- v3 Coilovers//Swift- Springs (8K front/6K rear)//BC- Rear Spring Perches

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Rice: Tint//Blacked Out Badging//CorkSport - Hoodlifts/Engine Compartment LEDs//JBR- Special Edition Cylindrical Knob
Stereo: Full Custom Mobile Audio/Video Entertainment System




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