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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:13 PM   #481
 
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I have been reading for the past 2 hours. I know for most the answer might be simple. Honestly I am kinda heart broken as I was only going to mod on the light side CS CBE/CS SRI and turbo inlet/ racepipe and Forge BPV.

Am I at heavy danger if I drive this way for a couple months without upgrading internals. I have no way to log or and it will be 2-3 months before I can get some kind of data logger/HPFP Internals.

Should I take the intake and RP off until I can get the HPFP internals? Will the Forge BPV effect this in any way and am I safe to leave it on now?

Thanks guys for making the issue clear cut. I just need to be 110% sure I just bought the car last friday my wife would kill me if something went wrong this early. Thanks again.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:29 PM   #482
 
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race pipe and bpv will do nothing but giving you more sound. As far as the intake and tih it is your call I went for about a few months with just a cold air intake and a ap and just monitored my fuel pressure, to be honest if funds is a issue you can always sign up for me bill me later and purchase the internals that way, I would rather pay something off for 6 months instead of having to save money to purchase a new engine.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:32 PM   #483
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
race pipe and bpv will do nothing but giving you more sound. As far as the intake and tih it is your call I went for about a few months with just a cold air intake and a ap and just monitored my fuel pressure, to be honest if funds is a issue you can always sign up for me bill me later and purchase the internals that way, I would rather pay something off for 6 months instead of having to save money to purchase a new engine.
Testpipe is just for sound eh?
are you sure?
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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #484
 
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If you don't have an AP, then you really don't know do you? You are probably fine, bit you don't know if you can't monitor.

Tappin'
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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:37 PM   #485
 
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Originally Posted by Zdraveca View Post
Testpipe is just for sound eh?
are you sure?
Sent from a GenPu
when mounted to the stock downpipe I would not think you would really see that much gain as you would if where mounted to a catless downpipe to be honest if I am wrong then oops and I am sorry.

But he should get internals before doing anything else especially with his vehicle being a 2010 and getting some age on it,no telling how much stress has been put on his stock internals
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 Old 01-20-2013, 08:52 PM   #486
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
when mounted to the stock downpipe I would not think you would really see that much gain as you would if where mounted to a catless downpipe to be honest if I am wrong then oops and I am sorry.

But he should get internals before doing anything else especially with his vehicle being a 2010 and getting some age on it,no telling how much stress has been put on his stock internals
Blog : Does a downpipe make a difference on a stock turbo MazdaSpeed3? : Stratified Automotive Controls
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:04 PM   #487
 
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Originally Posted by jcutler0622 View Post
I have been reading for the past 2 hours. I know for most the answer might be simple. Honestly I am kinda heart broken as I was only going to mod on the light side CS CBE/CS SRI and turbo inlet/ racepipe and Forge BPV.

Am I at heavy danger if I drive this way for a couple months without upgrading internals. I have no way to log or and it will be 2-3 months before I can get some kind of data logger/HPFP Internals.

Just to be sure...when you say turbo inlet/ racepipe, these are two different things, TIP is attached to your SRI, the Racepipe replaces the mid-pipe and a catylitic converter just below the DP in the exhaust system.

Should I take the intake and RP off until I can get the HPFP internals? Will the Forge BPV effect this in any way and am I safe to leave it on now?

Thanks guys for making the issue clear cut. I just need to be 110% sure I just bought the car last friday my wife would kill me if something went wrong this early. Thanks again.
If I were in your shoes....I would take the RP off. Danger is unknown, without monitoring. You might be OK, you might be about to outrun the hpfp. I would tread lightly until I knew for sure, had an AP, and internals ready to go in.


when mounted to the stock downpipe I would not think you would really see that much gain as you would if where mounted to a catless downpipe to be honest if I am wrong then oops and I am sorry.
Removing a cat is power gain.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:05 PM   #488
 
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So I am going to take the intake off after reading this. Thanks guys. Should I be good with the catless racepipe ( which I know I will see gains from) I did on my previous ms3 gen1's x3.

So untill I get AP and HPFP internals I would be safe running catless RP, CBE and forge bpv right? Or should I wait.

The car has been babied. I know it is 2010. But with only 16k miles on it. All service records, owned by an old man. The car is clean.

suggestions would be great! Thanks guys!
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:05 PM   #489
 
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ya that is for downpipe bro, the guy above mentioned a race pipe which is the mid pipe or some people call a test pipe, that replaces the second catalytic converter, but either way he needs to get something monitor his shit or upgrade the internals, dont want to turn this into a pissing contest or anything so do not take offense to anything I am saying.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #490
 
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Originally Posted by Hush View Post
If I were in your shoes....I would take the RP off. Danger is unknown, without monitoring. You might be OK, you might be about to outrun the hpfp. I would tread lightly until I knew for sure, had an AP, and internals ready to go in.




Removing a cat is power gain.
Thanks Hush!! Noted.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:13 PM   #491
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
ya that is for downpipe bro, the guy above mentioned a race pipe which is the mid pipe or some people call a test pipe, that replaces the second catalytic converter, but either way he needs to get something monitor his shit or upgrade the internals, dont want to turn this into a pissing contest or anything so do not take offense to anything I am saying.
are you really going to teach me what replaces what? the point is that you have more gains with TP/RP than dp.

The guy should make himself a favor and take both intake and testpipe unti he gets something to monitor with or internals
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:17 PM   #492
 
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Testpipe/Racepipe is what makes the power gains while on stock turbo.
@jcutler0622; have an old android device? buy a bluetooth obdII adapter on ebay for $20 and torque with mazdaspeed pids for $15. Easy & cheap way to monitor.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:26 PM   #493
 
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Originally Posted by alphasaur View Post
Testpipe/Racepipe is what makes the power gains while on stock turbo.
@jcutler0622; have an old android device? buy a bluetooth obdII adapter on ebay for $20 and torque with mazdaspeed pids for $15. Easy & cheap way to monitor.
Found the adapter. Does an app exist for it? I have an iphone right now not quite sure how I can freak this. What are the mazdaspeed pids for 15 bucks. Thanks for the advice I think I am going to go this route and monitor whats going down.

Thanks again everyone for all help!
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:32 PM   #494
 
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I believe torque is only available for android devices.

You can purchase a cheap android device (like a motorola droid) for about $30-$40. The torque application is $5 I believe, and the plugin to read mazdaspeed3 specific parameters is $15. The adaptor is about $20. You're looking at about $80 total.

I'd still recommend an ap over this solution, but it does okay in a pinch.
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 Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 PM   #495
 
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or he can get this and be done with it UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool
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 Old 01-21-2013, 08:05 AM   #496
 
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Had a sweet talk with the wife. Ordering the HPFP internals today. Rolling with the Autotech. Thanks for all the valuable info. Last question. Running just the RP,SRI w/ turbo inlet and CBE w/ the upgraded internals. Should I be good, no reliability issues to worry about? Trying to keep car as close to stock with just a little power. I am not trying to go big at all. AP would be my next upgrade I guess. Breaks my heart I can't do coilovers and rims next.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 11:18 AM   #497
 
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Ok in the 6 weeks that ive been apart of this forum I consider myself a short time reader, first time poster, I reciently installed a Cobb AP Checked the two parameters for FP that it monitors( I believe act. press and dis. press) before I installed auto tech HPFP internals, AP was showing at idle about 450ish on both and 1660ish on both accelerating. with new HPFP internals, 550ish at idle on both, and 1660 dis. press, 1760 act.press accelerating. Now for the question, ive read < 1600psi = bad day so A. why did i start with < that (at Idle) and 2. why do I still see 550# after install? I did Install Myself In a CLEANNNN dinning room area, (car was in CLEAN shop as well) IM a Nub, I know this, if the answer is on here and I havent seen it please just give me a Keyword to search for. thanks all
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 Old 01-21-2013, 11:58 AM   #498
 
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Originally Posted by hippiekid View Post
Ok in the 6 weeks that ive been apart of this forum I consider myself a short time reader, first time poster, I reciently installed a Cobb AP Checked the two parameters for FP that it monitors( I believe act. press and dis. press) before I installed auto tech HPFP internals, AP was showing at idle about 450ish on both and 1660ish on both accelerating. with new HPFP internals, 550ish at idle on both, and 1660 dis. press, 1760 act.press accelerating. Now for the question, ive read < 1600psi = bad day so A. why did i start with < that (at Idle) and 2. why do I still see 550# after install? I did Install Myself In a CLEANNNN dinning room area, (car was in CLEAN shop as well) IM a Nub, I know this, if the answer is on here and I havent seen it please just give me a Keyword to search for. thanks all
Not sure if this answers your question, but idle is not the problem, you are OK. It is at WOT that you want to be over 1600psi.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #499
 
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I guess it's a really difficult concept.

If you're going to mod the car, get internals. Yeesh, you need a degree in Mechanical Engineering to comprehend that.

AP/Internals should be the first thing anyone should buy for this car. Regardless. You will get more gains from an AP than you will from just an intake/tip...there's no justification in doing it the other way around. One of the most important things you need to do with the car is monitor certain parameters (Act. Fuel Pressure, KR, etc.).

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 Old 01-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #500
 
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Originally Posted by Zdraveca View Post
torque monitors a few parameters the ultragauge doesn't, but it's a nice device.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #501
 
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I've got an SRI on my car, and a Hypertech tuner (couldn't pass up the deal I got on it). I've also got an Ultra Gauge that I can monitor fuel pressure with.
At WOT, I'm getting over 1700 psi on the stock pump, and I peak at 18.71lbs of boost, then smooth out to around 16-16.5lbs.
So far so good for me. I called Hypertech, and they told me that with their tune, I should be good to go as far as a TMIC without upgrading the internals. Only when I do the downpipe will I need internals.
We'll soon find out.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 01:11 PM   #502
 
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I also use an UltraGauge during the week. Does not replace an AP WOT log, as the hpfp can dip in a split second, and only for a couple of seconds, and that will be the time you are not looking at it. It may not be a total failure, but it is a sign, a sign that something bad might be coming.

I was limping along for 6 months without internals, so I have been there. But I did have an AP, so I could at least see that my hpfp was dipping low after just an SRI and TIP.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 02:24 PM   #503
 
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I haven't seen a dip, but I don't drive my car hard all the time, as I'm sure you don't either.
I'm getting a spare pump soon (only 6000 miles on it), and when I do, I'm gonna rebuild it with some internals, then put it on the car after my warranty expires (along with a downpipe). Unless I see something before then that would warrant me putting it on sooner.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 07:20 PM   #504
 
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Originally Posted by Hush View Post
Not sure if this answers your question, but idle is not the problem, you are OK. It is at WOT that you want to be over 1600psi.
That helps thank you!

I have been monitoring my KR and During WOT runs I look down and (sometimes) I get up to 1.5 degree reading. When I accelerate at approx 50% throttle, i get (again sometimes) 0.6 degree reading around 3k in 2nd gear. both instances are sparatic and clear quickly.

Is this bad and what should I do? I currently have the auto tech internals and running the OFF THE SHELF stage 1 93 octane v231 cobb AP tune.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 07:32 PM   #505
 
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Sri/tip n test pipe I was fine, 1700+

Threw on a stage 1, 4 logs I hit 1 cell of 1599, bought internals and hit up @Lex;

2nd best thing I've done. 1st was donate mod


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Originally Posted by hippiekid View Post
That helps thank you!

I have been monitoring my KR and During WOT runs I look down and (sometimes) I get up to 1.5 degree reading. When I accelerate at approx 50% throttle, i get (again sometimes) 0.6 degree reading around 3k in 2nd gear. both instances are sparatic and clear quickly.

Is this bad and what should I do? I currently have the auto tech internals and running the OFF THE SHELF stage 1 93 octane v231 cobb AP tune.
Partial throttle knock is ok, and under 1.0 is usually false knock


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 Old 01-21-2013, 07:32 PM   #506
 
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Originally Posted by hippiekid View Post
That helps thank you!

I have been monitoring my KR and During WOT runs I look down and (sometimes) I get up to 1.5 degree reading. When I accelerate at approx 50% throttle, i get (again sometimes) 0.6 degree reading around 3k in 2nd gear. both instances are sparatic and clear quickly.

Is this bad and what should I do? I currently have the auto tech internals and running the OFF THE SHELF stage 1 93 octane v231 cobb AP tune.
^this - beat me - but since I already typed it...

Sporadic KR is pretty normal during regular driving, particularly if motor is cold, again it is at WOT that KR needs to be watched for anything over 1.
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 Old 01-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #507
 
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what's up with you pu owners wanting to spend hundreds on mods but not wanting to spend $300 on a piece that can prevent you from venting a 3-6k motor?
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 Old 01-22-2013, 01:43 AM   #508
 
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I'm planning on doing mine at the same time I do my downpipe. I don't have money to spend on a new engine.
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 Old 07-06-2013, 11:44 AM   #509
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For anyone who is on the fence or nervous about rebuilding their CDFP, don't be!

Its a simple, quick install. It was actually harder to put my intake on then it was to rebuild my CDFP.
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