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 Old 11-17-2009, 12:02 PM   #1
 
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Default Full Audio Install, Deadening with Pictures

Well I'm finally done. The whole install took about 40 hours. Spent most of a weekend and a few nights just nailing it all down at once.

Products used...

  • JL Audio CleanSweep (My goal was to retain the factory headunit, nav, wireless, bluetooth etc. Wasn't interested in going active and didn't want to mess with setting up the RF 360, Bit One or similar product.)
  • Front Doors - JL Audio ZR570-CSi
  • Rear Doors - JL Audio C5-570
  • Sub - JL Audio 10w7 ProWedge
  • Amps - JL Audio HD600/4 & HD750/1
  • JL Audio 0 Gauge PowerWire
  • JL Audio Speaker Wiring and RCA's.
  • Second Skin Damplifier and Overkill Pro


Amplifiers
My approach was pretty straight forward on this. I removed the spare tire to mount my amps and the CleanSweep. I didn't like the idea of mounting them to the seats and I also didn't wan't to mess with building a panel on the sides of the trunk. I could've attempted to go under the seats but the space is still quite a bit tight under the Mazdaspeed3 seats and fabricating a bracket to secure the amps would've been more time consuming than cutting a simple MDF circle the size of the spare tire. I built a simple circle out of 3/4" MDF and once I had them placed in the right pattern I cut simple 1" holes under the amps for wiring. I never could've fit my old JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 in this location which brings up the biggest benefit to JL's HD amps which is size. Not only do they have an extremely small footprint, they are extremely efficient, work well in confined areas with minimal airflow and put out impressive/clean power. I bought some basic aluminum spacers for my mounting hardware that floats the amps about an inch above the MDF circle. This way I could route the power, ground, rca's and speaker wire to holes directly underneath the amps. It left me with a pretty clean look and outside of the power wire being visible, all the others are hidden underneath the MDF rack. I bought an 80mm M10 1.25 bolt to use the same hole that's used to secure the spare tire and Bose subwoofer. I had to cut 2 more 3/4" spacers (lifting it 1.5") to add to the bottom of the MDF circle. This was enough to lift the rack enough to allow for the wiring to be routed underneath the MDF amp rack plus account for the deadening and insulation. I covered the amp rack in some inexpensive charcoal colored vinyl from my local fabric shop. It was $10 for the vinyl and it gives it a nice finished look.

Another benefit with this was that the Amps, MDF Rack and CleanSweep weigh no more than my spare tire and Bose Sub did so I did good in limiting my added weight.

Speakers
The component midranges would've been a straight drop-in had the front doors had the space behind them needed for the magnet and basket of the ZR driver. I cut basic 3/4" spacers from MDF and sprayed them with 3 coats of Plasticoat from Home Depot to seal them from the environment. I used a thin stip of Butyl Rubber robe in between the MDF spacer and the door panel and also between the woofer and the MDF spacer. I used my dremel with a heavy duty cutting wheel to cut the small portion of metal out to allow for mounting the front driver. The front doors are tight on the 2010 no matter what you do. The ZR component driver only needs 2.5" in mounting depth but I couldn't mount them even with the spacer until I built up the nerve to cut the metal. Most other 5x7 or 6x8 drivers should drop right in place.

The tweeters were no problem. The ZR's up front called for a 2" hole and the rear C5's needed a 1.5" hole. I mounted them close to the woofers. I've had both speakers in the past and they are very bright on highs. Even down low I needed to set the crossovers on the -1.5 dB setting to tone them down a bit. Many people will argue that a tweeter down low or anywhere other than the A pillar, sail panels or high in the doors is less than ideal. JL's quick to point out in the manual for all of their components that if you separate the driver from the tweeter your tonal balance and imaging will suffer. This is almost always the case until you're running an active system and making the appropriate adjustment to your TA. Again my goals were to remain somewhat stealthy while increasing the sound quality as best I could. Guys, be honest with yourself before mounting your tweeters. It's a catch-22 because these 2 goals don't play well together and are typically on different ends of the spectrum which means you need make the decisions that best meet the needs of you individually and what you want from your sound system.

Molex Plugs/Running the Speaker Wire
Ahhh, the infamous Mazda molex plugs. And to think I thought this was some kind of urban legend. I've never had to deal with these in the past and didn't know how hard it was going to be. I don't know if anyone's tried the method I used to get the speaker wire from the kick panel area inside the car to the doors. I haven't seen anyone do this yet and I came up with the idea one night as I was falling to sleep half way through my install. Most everyone I've seen has used some sort of cutting tool. Anything ranging from a Dremel to a typical drill. They then picked the best spot on the plug to enter the doors and drill or cut that area out freeing a spot to route the wire through the plug. Another user even suggested re-pinning the terminals but I still wouldn't have had room without drilling. What I did was heat up a simple angled pick with a small butane torch. When it was red hot I simply pushed it through the area that I wanted to route my wire. I didn't route it through the area where the pins were. See the pics below. It took a couple plunges but it was amazingly easy and very accurate. Making the hole and then routing the wire through the molex plug and rubber boot took only 10 minutes tops on each door. This method worked very well for me. So well that it was quicker than the time and effort I've spent on some of the cars I've owned in the past just passing the wiring through the rubber boot between the car and door. Plus I was worried with a Dremel or drill that I'd skip the drill bit or twist a wire creating a real mess for myself.

Truly the toughest spot in running the wires through the doors was the passenger front door and it wasn't related to the molex plug itself. Even with the molex plug completely disconnected I could shine a light through the hole and didn't see one ounce of light exit on the inside. The wiring was impossible to get my hand up into unless I would've removed the dash. Finally I used a small mirror and flashlight to get a look inside the hole (looking from the outside - in), and could see that the harness for the door went up about 5" then came back down. It goes up over a panel, then down. What pain. So I removed the A-Pillar interior trim. I was somehow able (with about 30 tries) to get a fish line down from the bottom of the a-pillar area to the hole exiting the body. I fished the wire back up through there, then down the a-pillar again to the kick panel area. Just that wire alone took me about an hour. Not fun. The others were a piece-of-cake compared to this one.

Almost forgot. Another struggle people run into with the molex plug is popping it out of the circle (body of the car), disconnecting the plugs, and then getting them seated properly back into place with the rubber boot. Do yourself a favor. Go to either Sears or Home Depot and buy pick set if you don't already own one. It's usually 4 picks. One straight and 3 with various angles on the ends. The right angled pick is your friend on these plugs. Without it you will be waking up your neighbors at 2 am in the morning with 30 different variations of the f-bomb. It allows you to somewhat easily reach the tabs on the opposite sides of the plug on the vehicle side of the car. There are 4 tabs on each plug that hold them securely to the body of the car. At 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock, 7 o'clock and 11 o'clock. The tabs closest to the font of your car on the front doors are the hardest so do those first. Once they are released you need to keep some pressure on the plug pulling it away from the car so they don't lock themselves back into place. Last important tip. Before re-seating the plug, put the rubber boot in place around the plug itself. This way you simply push the plug with boot already in place back into it's hole.

Power Wire
Might've went overkill on the wire but I'm right on the fence running 1350 watts on the HD amps. This isn't an exaggerated power rating either like someone running 1.5 Jiggawatts on their Sony Xplod monoblock. Anything less than 2 gauge for the length needed would've been insufficient powering both of these amps and 2 gauge would've been about maxed out. I removed the wiper assembly cover and route it under the wiper motor to the passenger side. From there I checked and double checked the interior and exterior firewall for the cleanest entry point without risking an incident of hitting something on the backside. I went with a spot just next to the ventilation system and where it enters. I used a Unibit that made easy work out of opening the right sized hole. I used JL Audio's supplied grommet. It comes with the 2 amp kit I bought and the grommet is top quality with a sleeve to seal it. At the end of the grommet's sleeve I wrapped it with heavy duty 3M 77 electrical tape which really closed it up good. From there it was no problem getting back to the spare tire mounting rack. I will say that with running from the battery to the passenger side and then back, I needed around 18-19' of wire. Just another reason why the 0 gauge wire was the best choice. Lucky for me the JL Power Kit came with 20'.

EDIT:!!!!!

Eternal did a really nice setup in his MS3 recently. He used a spot to run his power wire on the passenger side that's worth considering. To be honest I passed this up thinking it was a part of the HVAC system. Now that I saw his thread I believe Mazda uses the same firewall on the USDM and JDM model. My best guess is it's the hole that would be used for RHD models. Check it out because it's an area you might want to consider. You could fit a 3-4" pvc pipe through this hole.

Deadening
Deadening!!! The fun part. While it's easily the most time consuming part of the install, it requires little effort and it's actually relaxing compared to all the other crap that goes into installing a system like this. Even though this step adds quite a bit of hours and cost to the project, I enjoy doing it and believe it's one of the most rewarding parts of an install. A good deadening/insulation job will dramatically increase the quality of the sound you're able produce from your system. It will make your speakers sound better than you ever imagined. I've heard "okay" speakers in cars that had the deadening/insulation work performed that sounded twice as good as the next persons car with all of the best components/amps/wiring and no deadener or insulation. One downfall however to a quality deadening/insulation job is the weight you're adding to your vehicle. Not a big deal if you're trucking around town in your Escalade or luxury sedan although if you're driving one of these you probably don't have as much of a concern with deadening and insulation unless you want to focus solely on the doors and trunk. That said I could've done more deadening but the better side of me told me to hold back. The Mazdaspeed3 is a sports car. It's going to suffer if you add mass although this is another Catch-22 I was faced with similar to the tweeter placement. To deaden panels you need to add mass. In doing this you cut down on resonant areas thus "amplifying" the desired sounds from your speakers while cutting out the unwanted resonant noise from your door panels, floor, trunk etc. I didn't want to add 100+ lbs to the car. The second thing you need to consider in addition to resonant noise generated by panels is keeping your wanted sound (speakers) inside the car, and unwanted sounds (traffic, exhaust drone, road noise etc.) from entering the vehicle. Deadener alone is an ineffective insulator. You need something that acts as a barrier. The barrier I chose wasn't the best option, but a compromise. Not worried about weight I'd suggest something like SecondSkin's Luxury Liner Pro. But it's over 1 lb per sq. ft. Not an option for me.

I used about 80 sq ft of Damplifier (deadener) and 70 sq ft of Overkill Pro (insulator). I did about 90% of the trunk and floors. On the doors I only did the exterior panel. I also used some of their thickest deadener (SPL Tiles) on the doors. 3 on each front door and 2 on the rears. Why not seal and deaden the inner plastic panel?? Simple. With Mazda's inner door panel we've got it made. These door panels are a work of art compared to most other door panels that come in any vehicle. Some of which are a simple sheet of plastic to seal out water. Mazda's panel is a glass filled polypropylene material that is hardly resonant to begin with and it's seals up almost perfectly with the exception of where the door latch and lock wires run. I used more butyl rubber around those areas to seal them. On top of the Damplifier I used the Overkill Pro cut to fit the areas as best I could. Also cutting to fit the Overkill Pro in most areas isn't the method I'd recommend if you're extremely concerned with a good insulation barrier. To really block out the noise you need to have a solid barrier with tape over the seams. I did this in the trunk but not in the rest of the vehicle. Someone on another forum used a really good analogy of why the solid barrier for insulation is helpful. He told another member to try this test. While you're sitting in your car, preferably in a noisy area, sit for a minute with your windows completely closed. You can most likely hear noises entering the vehicle but they're muffled. Now crack your windows, all 4 of them, just an inch or so. Huge difference. Notice how all of that noise that was somewhat muffled now flows freely into your car. While the glass itself is not a great insulator, closed it's operating as a sealed barrier from the noises outside. The moment you open that seal, even an inch, the noise floods in.

The only comparison I have to put the SecondSkin product up against is eDead. There is no comparison. The Damplifier/SPL Tile combo on doors is insane. They are dead, dead, dead. Other than some small isolated areas, it's rattle free. All said and done I only used about half what I ordered. I scaled back and am happy I did so as again, adding weight was a big concern of mine. I'd highly recommend SecondSkin products to anyone who's looking do a serious install. Do some research here before you go dumping a couple hundred bucks on deadener. Go to the SecondSkin website and read some of their information. Google search "constraining layer". Damplifier is the best product I've used and easily one of, if not the leader in mobile audio deadeners and insulators.

To sum up the deadening work, this portion of my install makes my system sound the way it should and twice as good as it would if I had simply skipped it. Once you deaden and insulate a car with a decent system you'll most likely notice on the next vehicle you do that it's an area you're thinking about even before the audio components you're installing.

CleanSweep
Good Lord this was easy.

JL Audio sells a single wire called multi-purpose wire. I'd highly recommend it to anyone doing this install or a similar install integrating a their OEM head unit. It has nine color coded wires in a wire about the same size as a 2 gauge wire. Inside the multi-purpose wire is 8 wires for the 4 speakers (+/-) and another wire that you can use to tap into a remote or ACC wire from the head unit. I tapped into the appropriate signal at the head unit for the 4 channels and the ACC wire and ran it back to the CleanSweep. If anyone needs it I have the color coding for the wire harness on the 2010+ Mazda 3 or Mazdaspeed3 with the Bose system. I tapped in at the head unit in order to avoid having to use a signal summing interface after the Bose Amp. While I was in there I disconnected the center channel Bose Speaker. Turning the Bose Centerpoint Surround off does NOT disable your center channel. So unless you want to combine the sound from a 2 ohm Bose 3.5" paper cone driver with your nice new components, disconnect the center channel. With the Bose option there are also 2 - 3.5" speakers in the rear hatch area. I disconnected those when I deadened the hatch. The multi-purpose wire I simply soldered to the CleanSweep harness in the hatch and from there it's a direct plug in. There's a 12V constant and ground wire also coming from the CleanSweep. I took them both and went to the same source feeding the amps (distribution block and main ground). The 12v ACC wire I had coming from the HU simply connects to the harness on the Cleansweep. This allows the CleanSweep to have a remote out signal wire to trigger your amps. The CleanSweep only turns on and triggers the amp when it's receiving the 12V ACC signal and the signal from your full range wires.

The CleanSweep comes with a calibration disk and it calibrated perfect on the first shot. It also comes with the appropriate test tones for setting the gains. The CleanSweep includes a master volume control. You have a choice of whether or not to use it. While this might a big issue for some people I really, really like it. The reason for this is that with the CleanSweep you're taking your full range signal and then removing the equalization that the OEM HU applies as you increase or decrease the volume. Most OEM HU's don't deliver the same level of equalization at say 25%, 50% 75% etc. Typically they increase bass and treble at lower volumes to produce a "loudness" effect and then start stripping off bass as the volume increases. They do this to protect the crappy drivers they handed you when they made the car, thus decreasing bumper-to-bumper warranty claims and such for blown speakers. To calibrate the CleanSweep you simply set your HU volume to a preset value somewhere preferably between 50 and 75%. You insert their disk, run track 1, hit calibrate on the CleanSweep and VOILA, you have an really clean, hot signal you can deliver from the RCA outs to your amps. You do have the ability to still use your HU volume if it's absolutely needed/wanted but keep in mind you're simply allowing the HU to apply the equalization it's programmed for. If the OEM volume control, steering wheel control etc. is important to you, calibrate the CleanSweep at a higher volume on your HU. Our volume technically goes from 0-63 (62 then "Max"). So 32 on the HU is technically just above 50%. 48 then is just below 75%. Really you can calibrate higher than at 75% but I noticed an increased hiss in between tracks the higher I went. I'm not the expert but I think that would indicate you're raising your noise floor. Anyway if you calibrate at the top end (75% or slightly higher), you then can increase your volume on the HU all the way without introducing static or distortion that you will for sure get calibrating at a lower volume. I calibrated at "35" so that's about 55% volume on the HU and it sound great.

Last note on why the CleanSweep. Some people will also argue that it's not needed and that by grabbing the full range signal coming off the HU on the Bose systems, you already have an appropriate flat full range signal at all volumes. I've been told otherwise by a JL Audio dealer who's actually hooked Mazda's Bose HU up to an RTA to test this. It's a fairly simple process and he said confidently without hesitation that while the signal wasn't as bad as some OEM HU's, it was far from flat up top and that the HU was stripping bass out. Having heard otherwise I was a little skeptical and he offered for $35 bench time (.5 hr) to pull my HU, hook it up for testing and show me the results. RTA's are simply to read. Once you run the HU to the RTA and power it up you just increase the volume. Either the line stays flat or it starts to curve. He said he wouldn't charge me if it was flat, only if he was wrong. For the couple hundred bucks the CleanSweep cost I decided to keep my $35 and I'm happy with that decision.


First Impressions....
Wow. It really sounds fantastic. I did some minor adjustments to lower the output on the rears and it really sounds incredible. Everything sounds well defined and the car is tight and for the most part free of rattles. I had a small rattle in the headliner right in front of the rearview mirror but I didn't hit the roof to begin with. I cut a small piece of overkill pro, folded it, and then stuffed it in there. Rattle is gone now. The only other rattle I can hear outside of my MS3 is the rear window wiper. If someone comes up with a fix on that please let me know.

I didn't know what to expect out of the 10w7 ProWedge. I had the 12w6 ProWedge before and I loved it. Cutting to the chase, the 10w7 hammers really hard. Clear, quick, defined punches. It hits harder than my 12w6 did for sure. I can't imagine what the 12w7 or 13w7 hit like with adequate power because this does better than a lot of other 12" pairs I've heard.

These are the second set of ZR components I've owned. I bought them because I loved them the first time. I would never spend $800 on a pair (msrp) but I get them for quite a bit less than that. The C5 components for the rear were just for fun and are not needed. Being a set of rears they are way more than I'd ever recommend to someone in a rear door speaker but sound good enough that I would not hesitate for a second to use them in the front. I have the gains turned down a bit to keep them from blowing out the sound stage up front but I like the fact that I can turn them up with rear seat passengers until a small trickle of blood flows from their ears. Years ago the only components I ever went with were Boston Acoustics or MB Quarts. Once I tried the JL's I haven't really given a thought to what else is out there. I will say that there are a lot of smaller elite manufacturers that offer products as good and better than what you can get from JL Audio products. The problem is I don't have any dealers nearby where I can listen to them. It's impossible for me to justify spending a couple hundred bucks on tweeters or an elite set of components said to outperform a set of speakers 2x their price if I haven't heard them. Everybody has their own preferences on what sounds good to them so for me shopping for a set of speakers online that I haven't heard in the right environment is unrealistic.

All in all this was a fun install. A bit more time consuming than I wanted to spend but I'm enjoying the fruits of labor now is well worth it.

Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.















































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Last edited by Wrxified; 11-26-2009 at 09:15 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-17-2009, 12:15 PM   #2
 
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OMG that is one of the best installs and write up I have seen, Good Job. Looks real good and I know it has to sound even better.
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 Old 11-17-2009, 12:34 PM   #3
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too bad you had no choice but to get the bose system...otherwise you couldve saved a few bucks. nice install and write up
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Originally Posted by Say Chi Sin Lo View Post
While the other forum is GREAT for technical/mechanical information and how to, that place is filled with single-minded (if you aren't driving fast, you're doing it wrong), arrogant, and professional douchebags.
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 Old 11-17-2009, 12:42 PM   #4
 
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Holy Shit! Great install! Kudos to having the balls to gut your brand new ride.
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 Old 11-17-2009, 12:56 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Blackspeed View Post
too bad you had no choice but to get the bose system...otherwise you couldve saved a few bucks. nice install and write up
I agree. The Bose system didn't meet my needs. Only thing from the tech package I wanted was the Nav, Advanced Key and Sirius. I can't remember if Bluetooth came without the tech package but I wanted that as well.
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 Old 11-17-2009, 01:32 PM   #6
 
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That is some intensive, detailed work right there! Lovin it!
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 Old 11-17-2009, 03:19 PM   #7
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You are a brave, brave man. Holy shit,I wouldn't have attempted it at all.

Gonna be a bitch to de-mod to get warranty work done...<<sir your sound deadening,

was the cause of the engine failure>>....LMAO...kidding kidding
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 Old 11-17-2009, 04:17 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by predapio View Post
You are a brave, brave man. Holy shit,I wouldn't have attempted it at all.

Gonna be a bitch to de-mod to get warranty work done...<<sir your sound deadening,

was the cause of the engine failure>>....LMAO...kidding kidding
LOL. Not too worried. My dealer is cool. They're a friendly dealer, not one of these nightmare ones you hear about.

Power wire and volume control.











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 Old 11-18-2009, 05:13 AM   #9
 
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really amazing work man
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 Old 11-18-2009, 06:11 AM   #10
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coming from someone whos done countless installs you do VERY good work. grats buddy and i hope to see more good things from u in the future!!!
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 Old 11-20-2009, 11:00 AM   #11
 
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Default Here are the updated picture of my trunk.

I had to ditch the lousy J Channel idea. The subwoofer weighed a little too much and started to sag. This was the cheapest, lightest idea I could come up with. I could've done MDF but that weighs a ton compared to this. Aluminum tubing was purchased on ebay for about $30. Bought some 120 grit sand paper to give it a little bit of a finished look. Then sprayed it with some clear satin spray paint because the tubing looked like crap with oily hand prints. To get the tubing in the foam I simply notched it out with a razor and just twisted it in. Once the grooves were opened up I used hot glue to secure it. Floor would hold me and my 4 kids now.






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 Old 11-20-2009, 02:02 PM   #12
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wow man good job i love to see a good sound system
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 Old 11-20-2009, 02:43 PM   #13
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wow amazing job bro .... i would deff want to hear this in person .
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 Old 11-23-2009, 04:55 PM   #14
 
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Amazing work, I would like to see more pics & hear it too.
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 Old 11-23-2009, 05:02 PM   #15
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very innovative solution with the aluminum bars! kudos.

gotta love people that jump in and take apart the car - i tore out and deadened my full interior the 2nd weekend i had it!
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 Old 11-23-2009, 05:19 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex View Post
very innovative solution with the aluminum bars! kudos.

gotta love people that jump in and take apart the car - i tore out and deadened my full interior the 2nd weekend i had it!
It's fun ripping the car to bits.

I changed something small today. For $9.95 shipped I was able to have JL Audio send me a matching level control knob for me subwoofer. An aluminum one like the one that comes with the CleanSweep. Small things make the install so much cleaner.


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 Old 11-24-2009, 09:52 AM   #17
 
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Could you show me how to take the center console & head unit out? the 2010 model is a little different than the 07-09.

Also how do you tap into the speakers of the stock head unit? did you cut the oem harness to run it to the amp?
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 Old 11-24-2009, 12:02 PM   #18
 
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Nice install. For the front doors, the speakers would fit without cutting, just offset the speaker fromt he stock holes.

Nice clean install tho.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 06:37 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by ETERNAL View Post
Nice install. For the front doors, the speakers would fit without cutting, just offset the speaker fromt he stock holes.

Nice clean install tho.
I tried that. The problem wasn't the magnet so much as it was the basket on the ZR drivers. Rotated the driver fully both ways with the 3/4" mdf and the the best I could've gotten was the basket pressed firmly against the center metal door frame that I eventually had to cut. I ran into a similar issue in my Acura moving from the VR650-csi components to the ZR650's. The basket on the VR was just like any other speaker and dropped right in. Went to drop in the ZR's.... "Where's my dremel?"

Originally Posted by kroze View Post
Could you show me how to take the center console & head unit out? the 2010 model is a little different than the 07-09.

Also how do you tap into the speakers of the stock head unit? did you cut the oem harness to run it to the amp?
I'd be happy to help if you can give me a few days to put the details together but here's a quick high-level-overview.

Head Unit

First disconnect the ground on the battery.

1. Remove the vent above the head unit. No bolts on it, just clips. I used a thin plastic putty blade to slide in between the center channel speaker grill and the back of the vent. Start at the right back corner and slide it all the way down. Then pull the putty blade slightly towards you, the back of the car. That was enough to pop the first clip and get my hand in on the other side to pop the other.

2. There's a metal clip that secures the wire of the hazard light to the vent. Takes a little effort but you need to remove that before disconnecting the hazard light from the harness. Once you've done that just disconnect the plug and set the vent aside.

3. There are 2 10mm bolts under the head unit that hold it in place. Remove them then the HU will be able to be pulled forward enough to rotate the face of it up, facing the windshield. Three plugs on the the back of the HU that comes with the tech package. Disconnect them and the HU is able to be set aside.

Center Console

I'm not sure if you're talking about the entire center console but I'll give you a them steps used for it all.

1. I had my seats out when I did the center console. I'm thinking there isn't anything that would require the seats although they're easy to remove so I'd recommend it because the center console is about 48" long.

2. Remove the the 2 panels opposite of the kick panels. The ones at the very front of the console. There are only a couple clips holding them in place.

3. Remove the shift knob.

4. Remove the silver trim surrounding the shift lever. From memory, no bolts here, just pulling up one corner at time. Easier to start on the back corners first. There's also the one harness to disconnect behind the ashtray for the 12v outlet.

5. Remove the black trim surrounding the parking brake. No bolts here either, just pulling up on it will release the clips.

6. Should now have all of the bolts, screws & harnesses exposed to remove and disconnect. Harness for the center console 12v outlet and aux jack need to be disconnected. One bolt is in the armrest storage area and I remember a couple around the shifter and/or up near the cig lighter. Once all of the bolts are removed the console is removed rather easily by simply grabbing the sides of it, sliding it back and out the rear doors.

Again if you need some more assistance or detail let me know and I'll run through it with some pics.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 07:28 AM   #20
 
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awesome install. i love seeing other people tear apart brand new cars - not brave enough to do it myself.

i lost my love for car audio after my dream system (mbquarts, jl, custom kicks and sub enclosure, etc etc) got jacked from my previous car. swore i'd never spend that kind of money again.

i did a similar thing when it came to wiring into the doors. my old civic had huge molex at the doors, most of it unused. i held each half in my hand and drilled it with a 1/2inch bit, slid speaker wire through with ease and tucked it into stock loom. easy breezy.

hope you don't get a flat. and secure that sub, lest it become a projectile.

thanks for taking the time to do the write up.

blue tooth does come without the tech package, btw. greatest feature for iphone owners like me.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 08:03 AM   #21
 
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absolutely amazing install! love love love the controls you put next to the shifter.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 11:13 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by ruthless013 View Post
awesome install. i love seeing other people tear apart brand new cars - not brave enough to do it myself.

i lost my love for car audio after my dream system (mbquarts, jl, custom kicks and sub enclosure, etc etc) got jacked from my previous car. swore i'd never spend that kind of money again.

i did a similar thing when it came to wiring into the doors. my old civic had huge molex at the doors, most of it unused. i held each half in my hand and drilled it with a 1/2inch bit, slid speaker wire through with ease and tucked it into stock loom. easy breezy.

hope you don't get a flat. and secure that sub, lest it become a projectile.

thanks for taking the time to do the write up.

blue tooth does come without the tech package, btw. greatest feature for iphone owners like me.
Finally got around to securing the sub this week. Still not the best solution yet because I used the cargo hooks up front on the sides with heavy duty vinyl belt/strap type material. It wouldn't likely hold in a big accident but it keeps the sub from sliding now with spirited driving.

I couldn't remember if the tech package picked up bluetooth or not. Kind of cool that it comes standard. I use it all the time.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 11:31 AM   #23
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Sweet job. How much extra weight did the whole install add?

And post pics of your 280ZX. It's one of my favorite cars.
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 Old 11-25-2009, 10:12 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Urkend View Post
Sweet job. How much extra weight did the whole install add?

And post pics of your 280ZX. It's one of my favorite cars.

EDIT: Recalculated added weight. I was estimating .6 lbs for the damplified per sq ft. It's actually .45. I really only used 80 sq. ft minus the scrap that was cut away. Was about 65 sq. ft all said and done so 29.25 lbs. I actually decreased my weight 5 lbs with the amp rack, amps and cleansweep vs the spare tire and Blose sub. Add about 50 sq ft for Overkill Pro. That's .39 lbs per sq ft for another 19.5 lbs. Estimated another 12 lbs in wiring. 4 lbs of estimated added weight for speakers.

So I added 60 lbs not including the sub. The sub weighs 61.2 lbs so 121.2 total.

Believe it or not I have only a couple pictures of my 280ZX and they're not really that great.


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 Old 11-25-2009, 10:46 PM   #25
 
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Well if you're going to do it anyways, do it right. This guy knows what's up ^^
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 Old 11-25-2009, 11:55 PM   #26
 
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Thanks WRXIFIED.

Did you have to cut the OEM harness or do you just tap into it for the line-out-converter?

If you just tap into it, wouldn't it mean that the head unit is powering the speakers along with your new amplifier?
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 Old 11-26-2009, 06:24 AM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by kroze View Post
Thanks WRXIFIED.

Did you have to cut the OEM harness or do you just tap into it for the line-out-converter?

If you just tap into it, wouldn't it mean that the head unit is powering the speakers along with your new amplifier?
No. Remember I didn't use a Line Out Converter. They're okay if you're just trying to grab a signal for a sub but I wouldn't recommend using them on all of your system. JL Audio amps don't require them. They actually advise you not to use them because their amps can take a high level speaker wire signal as long as you just use a wire that converts the speaker signal to rca's. Like this rca to speaker wire adapter for $15. Even with this method though you're not doing anything to account for the factory EQ settings the HU is applying.

You're just providing the signal to the CleanSweep which is then converting it to a low level RCA signal. I used t-clamps to tap into the harness with my Jl audio multi purpose wire. From there it runs to the CleanSweep. The stock harness is still connected to the Blose amp but keep in mind it's not connected or providing a signal to anything. That's why it was important that I disconnect the center channel and the 2 3.5" speakers.
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 Old 11-26-2009, 01:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Wrxified View Post
That's a great color. Looks good man. Thanks.
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 Old 12-17-2009, 04:54 AM   #29
 
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Very Nice work, and the write up was on point. Thanks
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 Old 12-17-2009, 06:00 AM   #30
 
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You Sir, are an artist! Incredible work!
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 Old 12-17-2009, 03:14 PM   #31
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Very clean install.
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 Old 12-17-2009, 03:21 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by RallySportDirect View Post
Very clean install.
Thank you. I can step it up a notch with the right sponsor....
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 Old 12-18-2009, 08:22 AM   #33
 
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Awesome!!
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 Old 12-18-2009, 08:44 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Wrxified View Post
Thank you. I can step it up a notch with the right sponsor....


I love the 280, sorry for going off topic but is it pretty much all original? I am a bit of a Nissan lover myself
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 Old 12-18-2009, 11:16 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by RallySportDirect View Post


I love the 280, sorry for going off topic but is it pretty much all original? I am a bit of a Nissan lover myself
Yep. Just a little over 60k miles and the only thing that's not original are the floor mats. I wanted the 280zx my entire life.

A couple years ago my wife noticed this one for sale down the road from us. We went to look at it and both loved it but left that night with my wife saying it was about the most impractical vehicle she'd ever seen. 3 days later it was my birthday. I came home from work and opened the garage and there it was sitting there.
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 Old 12-18-2009, 03:28 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Wrxified View Post
Yep. Just a little over 60k miles and the only thing that's not original are the floor mats. I wanted the 280zx my entire life.

A couple years ago my wife noticed this one for sale down the road from us. We went to look at it and both loved it but left that night with my wife saying it was about the most impractical vehicle she'd ever seen. 3 days later it was my birthday. I came home from work and opened the garage and there it was sitting there.
That has got to be the coolest birthday present I've heard anyone getting, you must have a great wife . We have a local Nissan site I run here in Utah and have a few Z owners on there but I have to say unfortunately that none of them are anywhere close to as clean as yours
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 Old 01-29-2010, 08:38 AM   #37
 
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Since the cleensweep has front/rear inputs from the OEM HU. Where did you get signal for the sub? Maybe I missed that in earlier posts so sorry if this has been answered before.
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 Old 01-29-2010, 04:15 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by fortunehunter6 View Post
Since the cleensweep has front/rear inputs from the OEM HU. Where did you get signal for the sub? Maybe I missed that in earlier posts so sorry if this has been answered before.
Front and rear outputs from the head unit are full range signals. They run to the inputs on the cleansweep. Cleansweep has 4 outputs to my HD 600/4. 600/4 has sub outputs to the HD 750/1.
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 Old 01-30-2010, 12:08 PM   #39
 
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Ok great. Very nice job on the install and the custom hatch area. It looks very cool.
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 Old 01-30-2010, 02:20 PM   #40
 
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Amazing install and write up!! Nice 280 too!!
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