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 Old 03-14-2019, 09:32 AM   #1
 
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Default Steering or electrical problem or both

Hey guys, so I have search for an issue similar to the one my wifes car has and nothing has been coming up that hasn't already been done or checked.

The car is a 2012 MS3 with cold air and cat back on it. Now about 3 months ago when she was turning steering woukd lock up all electrical shut down and reboot. Would do this more so at an idle. But could still get it to do it moving slow. Took it in as the car still has powertrain and extended warranty on it. Turns out alternator crapped out. Put in a reman in as that's all extended warranty would pay for.

Car was fine for about four days before it all started again. Took it back. Well it was then throwing all kinds of steering codes. The shop I deal with doesnt have the proper stuff to fully diagnose electric steering. So we took it to the dealer which is about 3 hours away. When I got it too the dealer the lights would still dim a little and blower motor would slow down.

The dealer had it for a few days and they decided that the rem alternator was not rebuilt to Mazda spec so there for wouldnt keep up to the electrical demand. I didnt believe it at the time but I told as long as it gets the car fixed and back to normal I dont care do it.

When I picked the car up the lights where fine but the blower motor would still slow down when turning. Dealer said well the car has been sitting for a few days so drive it the three hours home and charge the battery then it will be fine. What ever wasnt fighting with them anymore so did that. Still no change.

Got in contact with the dealer in a couple days to inform them it wasnt fixed. Told me ok they will call tech support and I would hear back.


Two months later finally heard back. Car went back to them. Took two days for them too decide the battery had a dead cell in it. Said fine provide the test results on the battery which they did and it was bad. So changed the battery. They called saying it was good to go. Went to pick it up three days later. Still doing it even worse then before. Dealer kept the car to do more diagnostics on it. At this time I sat down with the service manager and we came to an agreement that they would keep it until it was 100 percent and no charge for diagnosing to me plus I get a loaner. Great. Also at this time the service manager told me that tech support was leaning towards pcm being faulty due to how it was acting but further diag was needed to confirm.


Fast forward two days later. Get a call from the dealer saying no what the car is doing is perfectly normal which I find hard to believe.

Now the car on a fully charged battery when you turn the steering wheel the blower motor will slow down. If the battery isn't a 100 percent fully charged then lights start to dim as well. And as the battery charge is lower the issues just get worse.

Now things that have been done or check are:
Alternator twice
Battery
All grounds have been check/cleaned
Battery and alternator cables all tight
Voltage drops across all battery cables and grounds and from alternator.
Steering pump for proper performance and output.
Front end(dealer says worn front end causes steering to output more.)

Now we are waiting for mazda canada to call back as they are involved now.

But I need to get this thing fixed right.
Or do any of your guys gen2s do this with the blower motor?
I know it's a long read but any input would be great
Thanks

Last edited by Reider88; 03-14-2019 at 09:45 AM.
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 Old 03-21-2019, 02:27 PM   #2
 
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Dang, what a pain....this is not a common issue. Sorry to say, but I dont recall seeing it discussed on here before.
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 Old 03-21-2019, 03:07 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Reider88 View Post

But I need to get this thing fixed right.
Or do any of your guys gen2s do this with the blower motor?
I know it's a long read but any input would be great
Thanks
Wow man. Horrible experience. I don't know if they have lemon laws up there but I'd dump the car and get your money back if you can. What a nightmare.

Clearly something is causing a high amp draw when the steering is turned. The pump is electrically driven. Wonder if its going out?
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 Old 03-22-2019, 12:15 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Wow man. Horrible experience. I don't know if they have lemon laws up there but I'd dump the car and get your money back if you can. What a nightmare.

Clearly something is causing a high amp draw when the steering is turned. The pump is electrically driven. Wonder if its going out?
We have had the car 4 years now and never had the issue. Took it too another dealer. Ford none the less cause they are the only ones will work with the extended warranty company. Need swap bar end links another issue. But they did testing on the alternator and its putting out 100amps when turning steering wheel but still dropping battery bolts from the 14v range down to 11v. So I dont know my next step from here.

The extended warranty runs out tomorrow the 23rd. So hopefully can figure it out and get it back dated because it's a known issue.

I'm thinking I will just find the specs on how to test the pump for resistance and go from there
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 Old 03-22-2019, 01:35 PM   #5
 
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A lot of non turbo first gen mz3 had electrical pump problem and 1 outcome was the hydraulic hose that get plug by some debris and increase the load on the motor pump...
The parts was in back order locally because they had too much to replace at that time.

Then, something that won't help your case but a good practice, is to keep a healthy battery to save starters/alternator and any other electrical stuff in the car. It serve as a filter for any surge and load.....Also if you ever had a non power steering car, (Back in the days) you quickly get that turning the wheel when the car isn't moving need a lot of energy. The larger and stickier is the tires, the worse it will get.

Alternator at idle doesn't charge a lot and if you keep moving the steering left to right without moving during a hot day, you drain the battery almost like it is used to start the car...So yes any other car with an electrical steering will have problem doing it constantly. Things will get worse if you just drive for a small distance each time so the battery isn't fully recharged.

If you have a new mazda alternator a correct sized new battery and a new pump....the last thing is to look at the hose and pignon and at last, you will need to check your driving habbits.

If she needs to replace the car 12 times to park and she always do it in 2 times, (move the steering then move the car) it may still happen and may also happen with any modern car.

When the voltage drop from 14 to 11 the lights will dim for sure. (i used to have huge sound systems and that was the first problem)

I'm not saying your car is fine and the problem need to be behind the wheel but it isn't impossible.
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 Old 03-23-2019, 09:20 PM   #6
 
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I wish you were local to me so I could do some actual testing to figure it out. Recently had an MZ3 in with a similar issue. When turning the lights would dim. Turns out it was in an accident and the ground near the passenger headlight was installed like shit, on top of that the alternator was not sufficiently charging.
Just 100 amps seems a bit low in my opinion, especially if it's being properly tested.
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 Old 03-27-2019, 04:22 AM   #7
 
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Hey guys. Sorry for the late reply. Been stupid busy. Having issues with the new house so car got put on the back burner right now.
Once I do have the time I will be looking into it myself starting with battery and charging system them going through all the grounds before going further. The car is safe to drive at this point. Just the blower motor dims when turning. Doesnt matter if your moving or not.
I'll keep you updated.
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