Trouble after HPFP instal

[ABolewski]

Hello every one. I just installed in my 2010 MS3 a CS intake with TIP, a CS catted down pipe, AutoTech HPFP internals and a Cobb AP.
It has a sloppy idle, and at first it even burned a little oil (smoke for the engine bay). After some modest driving, it won't even go past 4000 RPM's. I am getting codes P0089, P0171 (Lean) P0191(Fuel Rail Sensor Circut Range/Performance) and U0100.
I was very meticulous when installing the Fuel Pump internals, but I am thinking that is probably where my issue lies? I can not find any exhaust leaks any where…
Any input is appreciated.

[Fatguy729]

Logs? Are you monitoring fuel pressure? What map did you load? Check all electrical connections. Maf/o2 sensor (could have been damaged during dp install)/ electrical connection to the fp....

This is why its wiser to do things 1 at a time

Wow... Just realized this is your first post... Guessing you've never even read up on any of thus, and now you want the best online support available, for free. You were told this was the best forum ever, but you didn't utilize it until it was too late.

[ABolewski]

Fuel pressure is where it should be at, my map was OTS from Cobb Stage 2+ CS intake with TIH+HPFP 91. All connections are good, O2's are good. I installed my intake first, ran good, then Cobb, ran good, then HPFP internals and down pipe and that's when I ran into issues.
I however did fuck up royally and realize now that I know what happened. I started it up after finishing the Fuel Pump and DP with the MAF disconnected, from working on the fuel pump. Then, as it was running, I plugged in my MAF and a little smoke cane out from the Sensor side of the harness. I'm thinking I blew my MAF sensor, however I can still get readings through my AP. So that doesn't make sense. I have no boost or vacuum leaks either, I've checked for all that.

If it is my MAF, where (besides the dealer) can I get a new one? Searching this forum or googling isn't really coming up with narrowed results. And I'm not familiar with blow through MAF setups.

[ThizSpeed3]

Originally Posted by ABolewski Fuel pressure is where it should be at, my map was OTS from Cobb Stage 2+ CS intake with TIH+HPFP 91. All connections are good, O2's are good. I installed my intake first, ran good, then Cobb, ran good, then HPFP internals and down pipe and that's when I ran into issues. I however did fuck up royally and realize now that I know what happened. I started it up after finishing the Fuel Pump and DP with the MAF disconnected, from working on the fuel pump. Then, as it was running, I plugged in my MAF and a little smoke cane out from the Sensor side of the harness. I'm thinking I blew my MAF sensor, however I can still get readings through my AP. So that doesn't make sense. I have no boost or vacuum leaks either, I've checked for all that. If it is my MAF, where (besides the dealer) can I get a new one? Searching this forum or googling isn't really coming up with narrowed results. And I'm not familiar with blow through MAF setups.

will this one work??

OEM Mass Air Flow Sensor: MAZDASPEED 3, MAZDASPEED 6

[Fatguy729]

I'm thinking your primary o2, but I'm no expert, especially since you did so much at once. Take a log. What do your trims look like?

[smoogs12]

What are your fuel pressure, afr and fuel trims like at idle.

Tapa

[ABolewski]

With some googling I found one at AutoZone, $120 in exchange for my fucked up one.
All I did at once was fuel pump and down pipe.

I thought AFR was fuel trims? Cause my AFR reading was 14.7, fuel pressure was Act: ~65 Des: 450/470.

I've read about cleaning O2 sensors. I'll look into that and try it tomorrow before I go buy my MAF sensor. Cause it was installed for 3 and a half days (started on Down Pipe Tuesday night. Finished Saturday morning) do you think that it may have gotten dirty while out? Possibly damaged? What should I look for when I take it out tomorrow?

[kritz]

Long Term Fuel trims (LTFT) But you say that when you plugged in the MAF a puf of smoke appeared from the harness? Where are you located?

[kabobulate]

Originally Posted by ABolewski I thought AFR was fuel trims? Cause my AFR reading was 14.7, fuel pressure was Act: ~65 Des: 450/470.

Your internals are fucked. This car has 2 pumps and you are running on the in tank pump pressure.

~65psi is the in tank pump. You should be getting around 450 at idle and >1600 at WOT.

[phate]

Did you plug in the HPFP when you put it all back together? Two prong plug on the top of the HPFP.....I'd almost bet it isn't plugged in, lolol. P0191 is the code that pops when you unplug it.

If not that, your internals could be seized, as kabobulate mentioned.

[kritz]

What does this mean "Act: ~65 Des: 450/470." 65 degrees That plug is the spill valve, But still interested in the puff of smoke.

[kabobulate]

Originally Posted by phate Did you plug in the HPFP when you put it all back together? Two prong plug on the top of the HPFP.....I'd almost bet it isn't plugged in, lolol. P0191 is the code that pops when you unplug it. If not that, your internals could be seized, as kabobulate mentioned.

If he is only getting 65psi on the fuel rail sensor, I would think that it would have to be mechanical. edit: I am nervous as I just questioned the corn god. :P

Originally Posted by kritz What does this mean "Act: ~65 Des: 450/470." 65 degrees That plug is the spill valve, But still interested in the puff of smoke.

His actual pressure is ~65psi and is desired pressure is 450/470 because he is looking at it at idle.

[phate]

Originally Posted by kabobulate If he is only getting 65psi on the fuel rail sensor, I would think that it would have to be mechanical. His actual pressure is ~65psi and is desired pressure is 450/470 because he is looking at it at idle.

The function of the spill valve is to build pressure. It's a misnomer, really. If you unplug it, the car is unable to build pressure, but it will still idle and drive (poorly) with the ITFP pressure.

References, lol:

me jumpering the spill valve solenoid: E85 Discussion - HPFP lubrication and Flow issues

And an explanation of the spill valve operation: E85 Discussion - HPFP lubrication and Flow issues

[kabobulate]

Originally Posted by phate The function of the spill valve is to build pressure. It's a misnomer, really. If you unplug it, the car is unable to build pressure, but it will still idle and drive (poorly) with the ITFP pressure.

...and that is why you never question this man.

...and the references were not necessary, jerk. lol

[ABolewski]

Ok so I'll check the plug again. It's worth a shot. I'm in San Diego, CA. If my internals are messed up, I could take them out, clean them with non chlorinated brake cleaner and put them back together again, right? So it does make sense that my fuel pump may be fucked. I thought I did it perfect, according to te write up in the How to collection on here.
I guess I'll redo it tomorrow? I was careful reinstalling it too, ensuring the spring was straight.

EDIT: Connection was good on the plug. So my internals are seized most likely? I have no idea what went wrong then. Luckily I met a few guys that have done it before on this forum so maybe I can get their help tomorrow. I should be able to take it out and rebuild it just fine right?
Or do you think it has been damaged already?

[phate]

Originally Posted by kabobulate ...and the references were not necessary, jerk. lol

LOL, tis why I posted them!

Edit: and I just wanted to reference myself

[ABolewski]

Any way this is what happened With the smoke Kritz. I had just finishined installing the down pipe and HPFP and started her up. I noticed quickly that the MAF was unplugged, I plugged it in and a puff of smoke (like when you attatch the negative to a the battery) puff up from the female (sensor) of the connection. Didn't hear anything, or smell burning really, but that's what happened. I'm still getting a reading from it though. I think you all narrowed it down to the pump.

[Fatguy729]

. Did you disconnect your negative battery cable while doing the installs?

[Joe Isuzu]

My god, call me when you get a chance, don't drive the car, ill come by and see if I can give you a hand tomorrow

[ABolewski]

Yes the battery was actually out the whole time. But I know, not thinking, and excited to put it all together. However I think it's the pump, I'm still getting all my info from my MAF sensor. Hopefully rebuilding the pump tomorrow fixes it all.

[kritz]

Always good to have a few knuckleheads around who have some installs under their collective belts to help keep the fail away!

[Joe Isuzu]

Originally Posted by kritz Always good to have a few knuckleheads around who have some installs under their collective belts to help keep the fail away!

Not sure if you consider 8 bt builds as belt worthy

[ABolewski]

Haha yea I didn't know the community was so big. I didn't think there's be other people so familiar with these cars around! Thanks everyone for the help.

[kritz]

Originally Posted by Daddy Chinkus Not sure if you consider 8 bt builds as belt worthy

Yes, it is a good start! LOL

[rolanblack]

Please tell me that you. Oiled your internals before install and cycled your pump 3 times before actually starting it? If not, DOIT!

[ABolewski]

I did oil them all with fresh motor oil. How are you supposed to cycle the pump? I mean it's too late now, but I'll do that tomorrow after we take it apart tomorrow and rebuild it.

[ABolewski]

So last night the car drained my battery somehow. Totally shot. AP was not even plugged in over night. Had to get AAA to come unlock it. $53, fun stuff.
Idled it back to the garage I'm working on it at, and took out the fuel pump, took it all apart, it all was correct (looked at every instruction and how too) and cleaned and re oiled it all. Put it back in, back together, started car, same problems as before, as far as I know. I can't tell what the fuck is going on cause now my AP won't even fucking turn on when I plug it in! What the hell does that mean? Now there's electrical issues from a down pipe and fuel pump install?
$25,000 paper weight. Fantastic.

[kabobulate]

Check fuses?

[Standsideways]

Relax.

Check your connections, youve obviously got an electrical problem, and you JUST worked on the car..

Coincidence ? No.. Start diagnosing.

[ABolewski]

Checked all fuses. Passenger mirror fuse was oddly damaged, replaced even though it wasn't burnt. Didn't fix anything, not I saying I expected it too, it was just weird. Running through all my connections now.

Am I missing a fuse box somewhere? I figured there'd be more in this car. The one to the left of the steering wheel, and the one next to the battery is all I have found. Just trying to make sure I'm not missing anything.

O2 connections are all good, fuel pump, MAF. I don't know what else to go over. I checked all the other miscellaneous things I could see. No apperent issues.
What I'm mostly concerned with is the fact that my field pump is still not working. It's all put together perfectly. I know that's my problem. I just have to figure out why my AP isn't getting power now. Does the connection with the male pins go bad often? And is it warrantie since I just purchased it a month ago?

[smoogs12]

Dude, take Derek (chinkus) up on his offer if you haven't already. Give him a call. He'll set you straight.

Tapa

[ABolewski]

Originally Posted by smoogs12 Dude, take Derek (chinkus) up on his offer if you haven't already. Give him a call. He'll set you straight. Tapa

He's on his way. I just put back the stock fuel pump internals. No difference. Still messed up idle, still no pressure (I can tell even with out the AP)
Really confused as to why my AP stopped working.

[ms3rick]

Originally Posted by Daddy Chinkus My god, call me when you get a chance, don't drive the car, ill come by and see if I can give you a hand tomorrow

Do this he installed mine... Maybe your relief valve went bad? Did u prime the pump before start? (gas and clutch both down an turn key/start button)?


Subbed in before epicfail


Sent from my dizzLe using RaWr powers!

[smoogs12]

So I was thinking about this issue a little bit, and I have a theory but I need to validate it with a few questions first.

a. Does the spill valve rely on a relay? (if not disregard the other questions, my theory is blown lol)

b. If it does use a relay is it normally open or normally closed?

c. When the spill valve receives the signal from the relay (if there is one), does it build pressure or bleed it away?

phate or anyone who knows the answers.

[phate]

Originally Posted by smoogs12 So I was thinking about this issue a little bit, and I have a theory but I need to validate it with a few questions first. a. Does the spill valve rely on a relay? (if not disregard the other questions, my theory is blown lol) b. If it does use a relay is it normally open or normally closed? c. When the spill valve receives the signal from the relay (if there is one), does it build pressure or bleed it away? phate or anyone who knows the answers.

No, I'm 99% sure the spill valve harness goes directly to the ECU. The troubleshooting section has you check connectivity between the plug connection and the ecu harness pins.

See above references for spill valve operation, lol. Without powa, it is open and "spills" fuel. With powa, it closes and allows pressure to build.

[smoogs12]

Originally Posted by phate No, I'm 99% sure the spill valve harness goes directly to the ECU. The troubleshooting section has you check connectivity between the plug connection and the ecu harness pins. See above references for spill valve operation, lol. Without powa, it is open and "spills" fuel. With powa, it closes and allows pressure to build.

Damn.

Was thinking maybe it was a stuck relay draining the battery and causeing fuel to spill.

Theory blown.

[ABolewski]

I did not prime the pump before I started it.
No write up said anything about that, so I wasn't familiar with how to do that.

Where is the relief valve located? How do I check it?

Another note, plugged in Cobb AP to computer, nothing happened. So somehow that thing is fried I guess. Guess I'm making some calls and getting it warrantied. My packaging for it is 100 miles north though. So I gotta get that mailed to me first.

[phate]

Originally Posted by ABolewski I did not prime the pump before I started it. No write up said anything about that, so I wasn't familiar with how to do that. Where is the relief valve located? How do I check it? Another note, plugged in Cobb AP to computer, nothing happened. So somehow that thing is fried I guess. Guess I'm making some calls and getting it warrantied. My packaging for it is 100 miles north though. So I gotta get that mailed to me first.

You don't need the packaging, just call Cobb - they have great customer service.

The relief valve is located on the end of the fuel rail. Sorta above the starter...but on the fuel rail. At 65psi, I really doubt that's the problem, though.

Without the ability to see fuel pressure it's tough to diag things. BUT, once you can monitor it, I would jumper the spill valve solenoid to verify operation.

Edit: I've pulled my pump probably upwards of 50++ times, and there were a few re-assemblies where I forgot to prime the pump, lol. Never did anything, so I wouldn't worry much about it, especially if you oiled the internals.

[kritz]

The relief valve is easy to test correct me if I am wrong phate once the engine is warmed up keep the AP on and set to FP, turn the car off and leave the key in the on position what you should see is the FP increase if it drops the relief valve has failed. superskaterxes has a how to on replacement.

[ABolewski]

I'll check on that tomorow night probably. I have a button start so I'd have to figure out a different way to test that. My internals were oiled, I'm confident they are fine. Tomorrow I'm probably replacing my MAF sensor.
Although that doesn't explain my fuel pressure, I feel that it is damaged from the smoke. I'll call Cobb tomorrow and thanks for the heads up about not need packaging. Hopefully that all goes smoothly. Thanks everyone for the advice.
I want this thing to run so bad!