yeah cool ill do that. i like where the other guy happened to mount the ecu instead of on the fuse box. so ill definitely go that route!

thats what I cut off

hey since there is no OTS map for this new intake, i know we have to calibrate the MAF for the increased size of the pipe, thats no big deal, but what "Air intake" are you guys choosing from cobb to use as a base OTS? cause if you have DP, FMIC, CDFP, etc you would be "stage 2" according to cobb but obviously it all starts with choosing which intake you have...

i just wasnt sure which you guys are choosing as your starting point.

I have a custom "WOT TUNE" so Jon is sending me a base map to get started

ah ok well i cant do that lol im going to be getting pro tuned but for now so i can drive the car and have a OTS map to run everything, i just wasnt sure what ppl chose to use from cobbs maps.

Since a complete maf cal is neccesary i would assume it wouldn't matter what intake the map is supposed to be for. They're all gonna be way off.

That's very true. I guess the Cobb intake would be closest in design so ill run off that and just recalibrate it.

Why not just get an e-tune? Probably better than a protune, not alot of people know the platform as well as the tuners on here.


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There's no OTS map per se, but you can use COBB's "AccessTUNER Calibration & Tuning Guide Worksheet for MAZDASPEEDs" excel spreadsheet to come up with a multiplier that you can apply across your current MAF cal to get you to a decent starting point for another MAF cal.

Not sure what the stock MAF ID is for gen1 vs. gen2, but according to the OP, the WP intake has a 3.37" ID MAF, which translates to 85.6mm. You're probably going to apply at least a 1.20 multiplier across your MAF table, since it's so much larger than stock

@Aaron_Speed3, get an etune dude. don't pay for a pro tune. the etuners on here are fantastic.

I'm gonna guess etune is an email tune and I've delt with that before with my SRTs and didn't get too far. I've much rather it get dynoed by a pro so its all set right and good to go once.

I'm telling you. Don't get a pro tune. The guys on this forum that do etunes will set you up amazingly. Who cares about the experience with SRTs, this forum has a number of good etuners. I doubt there is a single person on here that would tell you to get pro tune instead of etune. No exaggeration.

He speaks the truth, you'll spend less money on an e-tune, have better reliability, and best performance gains.

Who do I talk to?

freektune (@atvfreek)
PERM tune (@Lex @Dano @djuosnteisn)
Hypnotic tune (@rfinkle2)
f-castrillo tune (shameless plug for myself lol)

there are several more, but I can't possibly remember them all

Well that's just too many to choose lol I want whoever can get me the 330hp that my protuner said he can produce. I'll leave it at that.

Your "protuner" is full of shit, it cant be done on stock turbo with just bolt ons.

Perm tune, Stratified tune, Dizzy tune, RichTune, are some of the tunes you can get.

2010 MS3 - ECU Computer Tuning - Mazdaspeed Forums

Psh your pro tuner is talking out of his ass unless you do e85. You will not get 330 at the WHEELS without e85 or meth on the stock turbo. Don't believe it otherwise.

Well how the he'll am I suppose to choose between 5 different ppl? That doesn't seem quite fair. And I was always told.the proper way to tune a car is on a dyno, there's no safer way to adjust timing and such.

I'm not convinced to go against dyno tuning to email tuning.

Your datalogs will tell the etuner EVERYTHING they need to know about what your car is doing. Plenty of dyno proven threads about the gains you can get with an etune.

Ah gotcha. Well define some of these Tuners they all have different names so idk which one is better or what lol idk who to choose if they are even willing to tune for me lol

if you run e85 maybe,,,but tell him 330 whp or its free

I'm happy with my WOT TUNE by "dantes5823"and he is local

Well if I can find out a little about each tuner I can make my choice and talk to them. But if they can all get me the same results then whats the difference? LOL

@atvfreek, @Lex, @Bucker, @Dano, @RichieRichness to name a few. All of them can set you up with a good tune. PM me if you want, we're derailing this thread. Datalogs + virtual dyno is more than capable. The dAtalog is the most important part.

Has any one else gotten p2187 with this?

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Whoever is available when you want. Some of the tuners are busy and may not be able to fit you into their schedule. Other than that they are all respected and will give you a better tune than your protuner can.

I wouldn't say etuners are "better" than protuners outright. But etunes are definitely a more cost effective options. Protunes are nice, but most people don't need dyno tuning for an non BT setup, nor have the $$$ needed for a protune. On pump gas 91/93, you can hit ~300whp, and with extra fueling you get a considerable bump in power :)

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No, your MAFCAL is off.

I think there needs to be a sticker on the pipe that says "you must re-calibrate your MAF prior to use"

how about cobb surgeline if you're in the NW (: ?

yeah im convinced to go etune. i really want to go over 300. even by a little like 305-310 ill be happy so i think ill just add 3gal of e85 to my gas everytime i fill up so i can get that extra boost in there =]

I would start by adding 50% to the entire maf curve (my apologies for the misinfo I edited out).

I was planning on installing tomorrow. I have no e-tune or maf cal work done. I am running a OTS Cobb Stage2+SF93 map (No TIP). Would it be safe for me to install an OTS Stage2+SF+TIH 93 map and apply a 1.66 multiplier for daily driving? My intent is to e-tune and maf call in the coming week(s) but to get the WP can I do this or am I asking for problems? Thanks ahead of time for your patience! I'm learning....very slowly...but learning :biggthumpup:

I believe it was mentioned earlier in this thread but I will mention it again maybe @jbarone should stick this in the install instructions.

I think a couple of people tried multiplying there maf cal by 1.66. To do this go into ATR. Find the sensor folder of the current map you are running. Go to maf cal A table. Select all the values push M then type in 1.66 and click enter. Do the same on Maf cal b table.

This is not all that needs to be done you will need to do a proper maf calibration but this should get u close so your car will run right. Also I believe that 1.66 number is if you are coming from a stock size maf.

Some one please correct me if I am wrong but I believe this is what was stated earlier in the thread.

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I did see that stated earlier in the thread. I just felt special and wanted to get people to weigh in on me individually :smokin:

This will work. Only other concern is to watch for boost spikes.

Thank you.

hell. yes.

got home from the kop meet today to find this waiting for me

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...0/IMAG0602.jpg

might find time tomorrow to do it.

ok so if i load a stock intake map, multiply both a and b maf cal tables by 1.66, i should be close? might be pushing my luck, i want to set up my grimmspeed for 3 port at the same time. i heard halving the wastegate duty table is a good start there?

Yea man sounds good. I might go a bit furthe on the wgdc. Better to be under then over.

what tables specifically for that? would you cut them all equally or smooth them across the board? sorry if thats a dumb question lol. this is the first ive messed with atr