Yes. I'm pretty confident on 66% or 1.66. I used this formula on a treadstone 3" and worked PERFECT. had to bump up idle and that was it. Wot pull was on point.

i havent had much time to mess around with the Cobb AP in the car or on the comp. but where at would you multiply these values by the 1.61 or 66% when installing the JBR intake? youll probably have to dumb it down like a how-to so i can do it from being explained to me once lol thanks fellaz

Ok fine I'll help. Open in atr. On the left and look for SENSOR CALIBRATIONS. Or something sensor. Once that expands its the first table that says MAT. Highlight the first value(should be 0.00) all the way to the highest value. Hit M on the keyboard and type 1.66. Enter and all done. Let the maf settle then adjust from there. Should get you pretty close.

So for the 2.63" MAF the multiplier would be 1.65

I don't know what the other popular aftermarket intake sizes are, but I am pretty sure the MACAI is 2.75" though I dimly recall that it is slightly larger than the stock MAF now that you said something.

My MAF values are way out of whack due to scaling for e85


Zigatapatalka

awesome, thanks man, appreciate it. i just need to be able to calibrate it enough so i can drive the car to get pro-tuned. at that point they can do whatever lol but thanks again

Oh good point. It should be the number of the intake your own instead of stock unless hit comig from stock. So research your ID and use that in the formula instead of 66.5.

Yea that'll get the car running. I don't think the car will even start and run without the scalling. I unmarried and tried to turn on and that didn't work lol

The MSCAI is slightly larger than stock and SRI intakes.

I got poopy stock intake so your math works for me :)

http://img.tapatalk.com/44e4b41b-eef7-d8b5.jpg

tapatawk

in your other post, idk what you mean by atr, i thought you meant the AP manager, but that doesnt match up with your abbreviation lol

ATR= Access Tuner Race

You need to go to cobbs website and request a version.

ah cool. thanks!

hey guys.. finally got my maf cal complete for now.. i really just needed to be able to drive it a few hours to get tuned without screwing anything up..

i was previously on a cobb sri/tip set up, and after the the calibration i ended up tweaking it about 1.75... this was on a stg2 ots map, cause my protune is locked..

so anyone else running the cobb set up prior to the jbr i hope this helps you out.

Just got mine in a started to assemble, question how the hell did you get the v-band around the intake filter? Mine is nowhere close to fitting.

Attachment 65727


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Driving impressions of the car so far??

Is there 3m tape in the box or do I need to pick up some on my way home?


Zigatapatalka

There are 3 clamps in the box. 2 for the coupler and 1 for the filter. The larger of the 2 big ones is for the filter.

Yeah I saw that, I have the turbo side of the coupler together with the smaller 2 v-bands, but the one for the filter seems like its way to small. Ill take a picture and post it.

@jbarone, I fail, I mixed 2 of the clamps up.

Excellent quality piece!

have not gotten to get on the car yet due to a tune.. there more on the car then just the intake that i have to tune for.. i did the maf cal just to get the car running properly..

ill know saturday evening for the driving quality with tune.

hey when someone gets this installed with a FMIC kit that the charge pipe goes towards the driver side post up a pick. I run the Corksport FMIC w/ Ram intake, and obviously if i install this i wanna see how it fits with that pipe there and what modification is needed, if at all.

thanks =]

No, I thought about it though.

Im going to have to ask for a refund then :popcorn:

The installation instructions are online and can be found in the support section of our website.

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

Thanks,
Jamie

Took me forever just to get the condom on the whale penis. Hahaha

In for numbers and more extensive sound clips without background music

@jbarone, before I tackle this tomorrow will the factory wastegate solenoid valve vacuum line work with this? I know you provided one, but I really dont feel like taking the risk in breaking it trying to remove it.

It will be tight but should work. Heat always helps.

Well its supposed to be 97* here tomorrow, we'll see how it goes.

Maf cal is definitely needed, so I can get you a base map. Email me and let me know when you are trying to install this. I'm working all day tomorrow :(

Freekn tappin

If I recall its too short. Just be real careful.

Thanks,
Jamie

email sent to you sir! come on you know this is more important!! hahaha

New vs old....

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1341542534

I have a very non-standard BPV location, but it all fits in nice and pretty. I will try to take better pictures when there is more light.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1341543111

A little different angle.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1341543300

Car started up fine, but I think my 1.51 multiplier was on the lean side for the switch from the MSCAI to this. Butt dyno says it spools even faster.

You applied the 1.51 multiplier across the entire maf table?

That is awesome looking!

Yes, but after looking at the datalogs, I need to add another ~15% which would put me right at... 1.66..

1.66 multiplier seems to be the golden number. I would throw that in the instructions as a starting point.

I had to bit of work with the harness to free up some extra length on the positive terminal so that the battery box would all go back together. I also had some difficulty putting the filter on, you have to put the clamp all the way at the edge so that the clamp gets fully *behind* the roll.

Love the piece, worth every penny.

Sure, now I see the install instructions! Naw, it wasn't bad.

Got it all installed tonight. Looks great! Pix later, after sleep.

Filter bangs into my BPV (Forge v2, stock TMIC), but I can fiddle with it later. Maybe it's time for that FMIC...

Like @Ziggo, had to tug on the harness to free up enough length on the positive terminal to get it to go back on the battery. Ended up leaving the front plastic plate off the battery box. Maybe sliding battery forward (toward front of car by an inch or two would help.

Had to remove metal bracket in front of battery box that harness clips into (with the big white plastic clip). After removing the bracket (two bolts), reattached fuel pump cooler (? heat exchanger-type thingy that says, "Caution! Hot") that was attached to the side of my CAI in one of the holes.

Car wouldn't start without new map. (Scared the crap out of me at first.) Used the 1.66 scaling factor, and now it starts, but runs rough. Will do a proper MAF cal this weekend, then Stratified tune with @Lex.

@Ziggo if you wouldn't mind emailing me some good pics I'd really appreciate it and what intercooler set are you running? Edit: Never mind I see it's a COBB.

@fooqr you should have no issues with tweaking the intake to clear your Forge v2 BPV. I tested with the same one and it's also shown in those vids in the OP. If you could send me some good pictures too I would appreciate it.

Pics can be sent to jamesbaroneracing@gmail.com

I will add some additional info to the installation instructions with how to handle the wiring harness and the ECU relocation hopefully this weekend.

I also appreciate you guys offering up some tips for those that have yet to install it and for me to improve the install instructions. Thanks!!

Jamie

So I slid the battery all the way forward and removed the bracket the harness attaches to as well. Then I opened up the white plastic piece on the harness that is used to attach to the bracket and manage the intersection of the cables. With the plastic piece off, I separated the wires that go to the battery, then reattached the plastic piece to the harness using zip ties and electrical tape like it was done before except with the terminal wires outside of it.

With the terminal wires outside the plastic piece it gives you an extra 3-4" to play with so you can route them in from the bottom of the box and reassemble everything.