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 Old 10-28-2012, 06:34 PM   #1
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Default BNR S3 Installed

Spent two days installing the BNR stage 3 this weekend, what a job! A big shout-out to @atvfreek for the great info and support (will most likely tune it with him).
His how-to: Freeks BNR install

A few tips for those in the future:
  • when bending the coolant line to fit it on the BNR, the best way I found was to mount it on the BNR, then bend it to get over. Smacking with a mallet as some have done may work too, but is more difficult IMHO.
  • I found a 14mm shorty wrench to be a critical component in order to get the rear dp-turbo nut off.
  • Be ready to loose a bunch of coolant, and make sure to clamp the coolant-turbo hose before removing the turbo
  • The lower oil line is the biggest PITA on this entire install. An 8mm ratcheting wrench is a must in order to get the lower tube-block bolt in. I also used a vice grip to give the ratchet some more length as well.

Some sizes added to atvfreek's list (to the best of my knowledge):
-Remove heat shields from manifold and turbo (8mm socket)
-Remove heat shield from the brake master cylinder (8mm socket)
-Remove egr valve and coolant hose from the coolant housing on the drivers side of the cylinder head (egr valve-2 8mm socket with extension)
-Remove brake booster hose, purge solenoid hose, and fuel line feed for the hpfp (I removed these from the firewall and then from the respective locations, to avoid damaging them. The fuel/blue is on the bottom of firewall and red is over it. Brake booster line is to the right of them
-Remove DP and upper manifold to turbo bolts (14mm socket with extensions, 14mm stubby)
-Unbolt oil feed line from the top of the turbo (8mm)
-Then go under the car and Remove the oil return line (8mm ratcheting wrench)
-Disconnect lower coolant line from turbo
-remove the turbo bracket

So, overall, I need to get a 3BAR and 3 port ebcs. I am now currently running a t-fitting as a temporary solution until those items can be sourced. Still looking for what to get and where, but I am leaning towards a Grimmspeed and the plug n play harness/3bar setup.


Thanks to all those who have contributed with info on the installation of this turbo, sorry I do not have pics to share.

Oh, I have two left over bolts, I cannot recall where they go. 14mm and 12mm (HELP ME)
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 Old 10-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #2
 
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Glad to hear you got it installed. Lol at left over bolts... It happens.

The 14mm head bolt looks like it may go to the turbo support bracket but hard to tell.

Freekn tappin
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 Old 10-28-2012, 07:30 PM   #3
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You'll enjoy this turbo for sure!
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 Old 10-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #4
 
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Not too sure but those bolts look super important...


Haha, I end up with several left over nuts and bolts from every install.
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 Old 10-28-2012, 07:39 PM   #5
 
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nice upgrade
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 Old 10-28-2012, 09:54 PM   #6
 
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Can't Wait to see your results after your tuned. I just about bought this turbo. Everyone loves this turbo

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 Old 10-30-2012, 10:10 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Spent two days installing the BNR stage 3 this weekend, what a job! A big shout-out to @atvfreek for the great info and support (will most likely tune it with him).
His how-to: Freeks BNR install

A few tips for those in the future:
  • when bending the coolant line to fit it on the BNR, the best way I found was to mount it on the BNR, then bend it to get over. Smacking with a mallet as some have done may work too, but is more difficult IMHO.
  • I found a 14mm shorty wrench to be a critical component in order to get the rear dp-turbo nut off.
  • Be ready to loose a bunch of coolant, and make sure to clamp the coolant-turbo hose before removing the turbo
  • The lower oil line is the biggest PITA on this entire install. An 8mm ratcheting wrench is a must in order to get the lower tube-block bolt in. I also used a vice grip to give the ratchet some more length as well.

Some sizes added to atvfreek's list (to the best of my knowledge):
-Remove heat shields from manifold and turbo (8mm socket)
-Remove heat shield from the brake master cylinder (8mm socket)
-Remove egr valve and coolant hose from the coolant housing on the drivers side of the cylinder head (egr valve-2 8mm socket with extension)
-Remove brake booster hose, purge solenoid hose, and fuel line feed for the hpfp (I removed these from the firewall and then from the respective locations, to avoid damaging them. The fuel/blue is on the bottom of firewall and red is over it. Brake booster line is to the right of them
-Remove DP and upper manifold to turbo bolts (14mm socket with extensions, 14mm stubby)
-Unbolt oil feed line from the top of the turbo (8mm)
-Then go under the car and Remove the oil return line (8mm ratcheting wrench)
-Disconnect lower coolant line from turbo
-remove the turbo bracket

So, overall, I need to get a 3BAR and 3 port ebcs. I am now currently running a t-fitting as a temporary solution until those items can be sourced. Still looking for what to get and where, but I am leaning towards a Grimmspeed and the plug n play harness/3bar setup.


Thanks to all those who have contributed with info on the installation of this turbo, sorry I do not have pics to share.

Oh, I have two left over bolts, I cannot recall where they go. 14mm and 12mm (HELP ME)

I think those bolts (or at least one of them) could be from the old downpipe and the mounting part on the first cat to bolt up to the frame. My first guess.
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Performance:

Stratified Tune in progress

Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig"
Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected

Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery
Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected

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 Old 10-30-2012, 11:00 AM   #8
 
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Pretty good write up here, a lot of helpful tips for those doing this on their own

Grimmspeed is of course the most popular ebcs (and good on you for choosing ebcs over mbc), thoughive had nothing but success with the perrin. Bosche sells their 3 bar for $29 off the ballenger motorsports website, and be sure to pick up the plug and play from @MattJackson86 for approx $60. Make the install 10 mins, if that, with a 7 mm socket

Good luck
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 Old 10-30-2012, 12:49 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Swinger13 View Post
I think those bolts (or at least one of them) could be from the old downpipe and the mounting part on the first cat to bolt up to the frame. My first guess.
I have an aftermarket downpipe. Can you clarify?
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 Old 10-30-2012, 01:32 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati View Post
Pretty good write up here, a lot of helpful tips for those doing this on their own

Grimmspeed is of course the most popular ebcs (and good on you for choosing ebcs over mbc), thoughive had nothing but success with the perrin. Bosche sells their 3 bar for $29 off the ballenger motorsports website, and be sure to pick up the plug and play from @MattJackson86 for approx $60. Make the install 10 mins, if that, with a 7 mm socket

Good luck
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 Old 10-30-2012, 02:40 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
I have an aftermarket downpipe. Can you clarify?
when you took the stock cat out (the 1st cat) there should be a mounting plate that sticks out where it bolts up to the frame. Refer to the image in the red circle...
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Performance:

Stratified Tune in progress

Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig"
Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected

Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery
Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected

Corksport CBE ~ Ebay DP ~ Autotech Internals ~ COBB AP ~ BC Racing Coilovers ~ SURE shortcut ~ SURE countershift ~ SURE anchors ~ heavy sphere shift knob by maisonvi (MSF member) ~ CP-E seals ~ BSD ~ baffle pan ~ Dual Corksport OCC ~ CP-E Rear Diff Mount ~ SURE Juggernaught ~ Dashhawk ~ AWR 88 duro trilogy ~ EGR delete ~ 3 bar ~ JBR TIG's ~ Grimmspeed 3 port ~ GT2871R w/ported hotside ~ JBR 3.5 inch intake ~ Perm Tuning PCV Plate ~ Forge V1 BPV ~ ITV22's @ .026" ~ CP-E Helihose
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