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 Old 08-16-2011, 07:04 AM   #1

 
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Default BNR S3 Swap How To

I will just be updating the first post as I progress to fill in the blanks, so feel free to crap up the rest of the thread.

Parts List:

Necessary:
BNR S3 Turbo - $1200
-6AN Braided Hose 3 FT - $17 (only 12" needed for MS3)
2 screw type hose clamps 1$

Recommended:
DNP Manifold - $600
THERMO SHIELD TAPE 1.5INx 15FT - $15
Cobb TIP - $165
EX Manifold-head Gasket - $39
EX Manifold-Turbo Gasket - $39
Turbo-DP Gasket - $39
Grimmspeed ECBS - $106
PB Blaster - $4 (11 oz)
Permatex Anti-Seize - $10 (8 oz)


Optional:
Swaintech White Lightning Ceramic Coating for both Mani and hot side of turbo: $400
Prosport EGT Gauge - $89
Vent Pod - $40
EGT Bung - $4 (Paid some dude $20 to weld it to manifold)



Please note, I just listed the parts I am using. Those are not necessarily the prices I paid, I haggled with the vendors, and bought some things used. There are other options for parts. For example, the Cobb TIP could be replaced with any other silicone TIP but the PG TIP will not fit very well. I am not going to cover these things in the first post, only go over exactly what I did.

Tool List:
1/2" Ratchet
3/8" Ratchet (flex head)
3/8" 3" Extension (2)
3/8" Universal Joint
1/4" Ratchet
1/4" Ratchet Extension
17mm Box End wrench (6pt)
17mm 3/8" Drive Socket (6pt)
14mm 1/2" Drive Socket (6pt)
14mm 3/8" Drive Socket (6pt)
14mm 3/8" Drive Deepwall Socket (6pt)
14mm Box End wrench (12pt)
14mm Box End wrench (6pt)
14mm Flex Ratchet Wrench (12pt)
12mm 1/4" Drive Socket (6pt)
10mm 1/4" Drive Socket (6pt)
8mm 3/8" Drive Socket (6pt)
8mm 1/4" Drive Deepwell Socket (6pt)
8mm 1/4" Drive Socket (6pt)
8mm Box end wrench (6pt)
Bent Needle nose pliers
Hacksaw
2lb Deadblow


1 -> Remove manifold

1.1 -> Remove Battery Box
10mm wrench, pliers. If you cant do this, stop the guide, ask for help from somebody who knows how

1.2 -> Remove firewall heatshield
This assumes you have already removed your TMIC. I have an FMIC so this is where I begin.
There are two black plastic twists on this piece, I turned them and pulled them at the same time to get em off. After that just pull up and out to remove the heatshield.

1.3 -> Remove Manifold Heat Shields



1.3.1 -> Remove Top Heatshield
Access from top, use 1/4" Ratchet with a combination of the 8mm deep socket and extension to remove the 5 bolts. It is one hell of a bitch to get out of there.

1.3.2 -> Remove Bottom Heatshield
Access from top, use a 8mm box end wrench to blindly access the 3 bolts. Ratcheting 8mm wrench would be a big help. Heatshield is easily removed from the top.

1.3.3 -> Remove Side Heatshield
Access 2 of the 3 bolts from the top. The one towards the firewall with the 8mm box end wrench (ratcheting preferred) and the side using a 1/4" ratchet and the standard 8mm socket. Move to the bottom and remove the 3rd bolt using the ratchet and standard socket. Turn the heatshield around the WGA arm, and push upwards. Then go back up top and pull it the rest of the way out. Its a bit of a pain.

1.3.4 -> Heatshields Removed
This is where I PB blasted the hell out of every bolt I will be turning later. All 5 on the downpipe, the 10 between the head and the manifold, and the 4 between the turbo and the manifold.


1.4 -> Remove Hot Pipe
Will vary wildly, I use a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive

1.5 -> Remove TMIC brace
This little bracket is a bitch. Two 13mm bolts to remove, but removing the small silver sub-brace first will make your job alot easier. I used a flex head 13mm ratcheting wrench to remove the bolts, but I had to lean on em pretty hard. A real knuckle buster.



1.6 -> Remove Turbo Brace
This was incredibly hard for me, I ended up having to use a 2ft cheater bar to loosen one of the 14mm bolts, and I snapped a 3/8" drive 14mm socket on it. I used a 1/2" drive with a 14mm socket to remove the bottom two (one with the cheater bar) and a 3/8" drive with a 14mm socket to remove the one to the turbo. This is all done from under the car. Maybe the heat my bracket has seen that caused some of the discoloration made it more difficult to remove the bolts. This will probably be significantly more difficult if you are still using the stock DP as there is much less space to work behind the block from under the car.


1.7 -> Loosen turbo to mani studs
4x 14mm, I used a 3/8" drive 14mm deepwall with a single 3" extension to loosen these though a standard socket and 2 extensions would work just as well. I had to lean into them a bit to get them to loosen.

1.8 -> Loosen Mani to Head nuts.
This is the real pain in the ass of the whole thing. I did 9 of the nuts from the top, only the one that is directly above the turbo brace previously removed was done from the bottom. Fortunately I did not run into any that were really stuck. I used a combination of a 14mm box end wrench, 14mm ratcheting flex head wrench (mostly for removing nuts already broken loose), a deepwall 14mm 3/8" drive socket, a pair of extensions and a 3/8" drive universal joint to remove the top 9. The bottom nut was broken loose using the 14mm box end wrench and then removed using the ratcheting wrench.

1.9 -> Extract Maniold
I pushed down on the downpipe and lifted up on the end of the manifold that connects it to the turbo to free it. Then I just wiggled it around to get it off the head studs. This could be significantly more difficult if the studs all stay in the turbo. Mine all came out but one.
I also removed the two gaskets at this point and re-pb blasted the downpipe to turbo bolts.


2 -> Remove Turbo

2.1 -> Remove TIP
This step will vary, I am uninstalling a PG TIP and used a pair of pliers for the hose clamps to the BPV and a 10mm, 1/4" socket for the other hose clamps. remember to disconnect the ECBS, and for the PG TIP, the 10mm nut that holds the TIP to the block.

2.2 ->Remove attachments from turbo.

2.2.1 ->First up is a small nut that holds a bracket on the bottom of the compressor housing. Use a 12mm 1/4" socket to remove this. Leave the stud in the bracket for now.

2.2.2 -> Remove oil feed line
This is a 14mm Banjo bolt on the top of the turbo. I used a 3/8" ratchet and an 3" extension to get it off. Save the banjo bolt for later, but toss the crush washers. The BNR comes with replacement crush washers. I left the other end attached to the block.

2.2.3 -> Remove oil drain line
From under the car there are 4 8mm bolts to remove to completely remove the oil drain line. I used a 1/4" ratchet and a 3" extension. The long bolts go to the block, the shorter ones attach the line to the turbo. I only had a few drops of oil come out as my car had sat overnight. Save the gaskets.

2.2.4 -> Remove coolant feed line.
From under the car you can see the coolant feed line that runs to a coolant pipe. Use Vice grips (or you have them hose clamps) to clamp the rubber portion of the hose. Then use a pair of pliers to remove the clamp on the turbo side of the hose and pull it loose. Watch out because there will be a splatter of coolant as the water jacket on the turbo empties.

2.2.5 -> Remove coolant drain line.
From the top, locate the hose that goes from the turbo to the EGR. Move the hose clamp that attaches the hose to the EGR and pull it loose.

2.2.6 -> Unplug ECBS
Locate the ECBS and unplug it from the harness.

2.3 -> Unbolt Downpipe.
I used a 14mm 12pt Box end wrench for this. Its alot easier to access the bolts without the manifold interfering. 3 are removed from the top, and the bottom two are removed from below. If none of the studs stay in the turbo when you remove them be careful as the turbo will want to drop.

2.4 ->Remove turbo
To remove the turbo I pushed it away from the downpipe first to get it free of those studs, then I pulled it towards the DP to remove the last stud from the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the compressor housing. Note the vice grips still attached to the coolant feed line. These must remain in place or the coolant will start to flow.


3 -> Install BNR Turbo

3.1 -> Prepare BNR Turbo

3.1.1 -> Remove studs from stock turbo
What is important here is that you have enough hardware to put the BNR back in. My BNR came with 2 studs in the hotside, so I needed 7 of the studs and all of the nuts to put the BNR back in. The best way to remove studs from the turbo is to thread one nut on backwards, then another nut on regular so their flat sides face each other. Snug both nuts against each other, then turn counterclockwise on the inside nut (backwards facing) and it should remove the stud. Then with the stud removed, turn the inside nut clockwise, and the outside one counterclockwise to loosen them from each other. once they are loose, it should be easy to remove them from the stud. I would remove all studs from the BNR turbo as well as it will make installation easier. Tools needed: 2 14mm box end wrenches.

3.1.2 -> Remove stock coolant drain banjo bolt and reuse
All you need here is just the 17mm banjo bolt. once removed, toss the crush washers, and use the banjo bolt to attach the 6AN fitting, using new crush washers, orienting it as shown. Tighten securely, but don't gorilla it, its easy to break banjo bolts. Used a 17mm box end wrench. *Note: It is important to angle the banjo towards the compressor housing as shown. If you do not it will interfere with the manifold flange & gasket see 3.5.2 for the resulting routing and spacing



3.1.3 -> Remove stock coolant feed line and reuse
This line will be reused on the BNR. Use a 17mm box end wrench to take off the banjo bolt, then toss the crush washers. You will have to bend this line slightly to fit around the larger compressor housing. It should fit as shown below. Re-secure it using new crush washers and torque similarly to above.



3.1.4 -> Remove stock hot side shield and reuse (optional)
8mm box end wrench is used here to remove the two bolts. Transfer to same place on the BNR turbo and attach it using the same two bolts.



3.2 -> Attach BNR to downpipe
Drop the turbo behind the firewall and line it up with the downpipe. Insert the gasket between them and insert one stud. Apply anti-seize to stud before threading. Insert other two top studs and put nuts on all 3 at this point and snug them using a 14mm box end wrench (12pt preferable) Then go below and insert the bottom two studs and nuts and tighten them up using the 14mm wrench. These should be very tight to prevent leaks, and liberal use of anti-seize will make your life easier in the future. Go back up top and tighten the top 3 nuts. A friend would be very useful for this step.

3.3 -> Temporarily install support bracket
push up on the turbo/downpipe and secure the two bolts that attach the support to the block. Leave them loose as this will be removed later. I used a 14mm socket, 3" extension with a 3/8" ratchet for these bolts. I sued anti-seize on all 3 bolts.

3.4 -> Install oil feed line
Using the 14mm banjo bolt set aside eariler and new crush washers, secure the oil feed to the top of the CHRA. Tighten well to prevent leaks, but be careful of damaging the bolt. Used the same ratchet setup from the previous step.



3.5 -> Coolant drain line

3.5.1 -> Fab coolant drain line
For a MS3, you only need about 11.5" of line to reach from the turbo outlet to the EGR. A 12" premade line would suffice, I bought alot because I didn't know. I used a hacksaw to cut it. If you do this, make sure to tape over where you will be cutting to keep the braid from fraying.



3.5.2 -> Begin installing coolant drain line
I secured both ends using screw type hose clamps, routing the tubing as shown.






3.6 -> Connect coolant feed line
Might need a mallet, I had to do a bit more bending from under the car. Then push the hose on and resecure clip. Leave the vice grips on the hose till it is connected unless you want coolant in your face.

3.7 -> Oil drain line
Connect this to the turbo first using an 8mm socket, 1/4" ratchet and 3" extension. Do not screw all the way in before attaching it to the block. After its been attached to the block, tighten the screws to the turbo, but leave the ones to the block loose. Remember from before, the long screws go to the block, the shorter ones to the turbo.



4 -> Reinstall manifold

4.1 -> Install new manifold to head gasket

4.2 -> Begin attaching manifold to head
This required quite a few tries for me, I had to do a bit of filing on some hole of the DNP manifold to get it to seat correctly. Once it was slid all the way on, I secured it with three of the 14mm nuts across the top that were easy to access using a combination of a14mm box end wrench and a 14mm socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. Before butting the nuts on the studs apply anti seize to them. Leave it some room to move around. This step will be much harder if you left any studs in the turbo.

4.3 -> Attach manifold to turbo
Because the oil drain line and the support bracket on the turbo and the manifold are not fully bolted down I have some room to move around the parts for this step. Everywhere that something is threaded I applied anti-seize. Slip the manifold-turbo gasket between the parts, noting that the "v" side should face the block. You may one to take a look at the stock turbo as there is only one way this gasket will fit on. After the gasket is roughly in place, slip a stud down one of the top holes and tug on the gasket to verify the stud is thru the gasket. Using one hand pull on the downpipe to align it, while feeling for the thread holes with the stud with the other. This is another step that a friend would be very useful. After you get the first one started, the rest are pretty easy. For a DNP manifold I used a 14mm socket with a 3" extension on a 3/8" ratchet for both the drivers side nuts, and a 14mm 12pt box end wrench for the 2 passenger side ones. Torque all 4 down as best you can.



4.4 -> Finish Installing manifold
At this point I torqued down all the nuts attaching the manifold to the head. I started from the top, torquing down all 8 I had access to using a combination of a 14mm 12pt box end wrench, a 14mm deep socket on a 3/8" drive, and a flex head 14mm ratcheting wrench. Then I went below, removed the support bracket using the 14mm 3/8" deep socket and ratchet and torqued down the last two manifold to head nuts using a 14mm 12pt box end wrench.

4.5 -> Install support bracket
3 14mm bolts, you should be familiar with this by now. Attach all 3, then secure the one to the turbo first, allowing it to move the bracket, then torque down the other two to lock it into place. If you torque the ones to the block first, when you torque the one on the turbo it will pull on the manifold, stressing it, and making it more likely to crack so don't do that.

4.6 -> Secure oil drain line
Torque down the oil drain line bolts (8mm) to the block as this was left loose earlier. If you didn't loosely secure it before you may have to bend it around bit to make it mate.

4.7 -> Reattach AC line\TMIC brace
Reattach the primary brace to the block first using the 13mm bolts and a ratcheting flex head 13mm wrench. I anti-seized these as well. Then attach the sub brace using its 10mm nut, using a 1/4" drive and a 3" extension, and last up secure the AC line to the brace using the last 10mm nut.

4.8 -> Apply thermal tape
This is where I repaired my heatshield, cut a slit in it for my EGT probe, which was badly located and installed it. I also taped the firewall above the heatshield, and the plastic cowling above that. I also placed some around the wires of the 02 sensor and used a bit to secure it to the firewall heatshield. All this may not be necessary for a street or drag car, but my car will see sustained runs on the track so even with the ceramic coating, I expect things to get hot back there. Only tool used was a box cutter to cut the tape, but anything with a sharp edge will work.





4.9 -> Re-install Hot Pipe
10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. I also heat wrapped the silicone bend near the manifold, just being cautious. The BNR seems to have a longer snout than the stock turbo, so I was able to get away would using my ugly klooge of an extension.

4.10 -> Re-install TIP
8mm 3/8" socket and a couple extensions for the hose clamps on this one. If you are re-installing the same one from before you shouldn't have to modify anything. I had to shorten my recirc hose a bit since I was going from a PG to a COBB TIP.

4.11 -> Run EGT Wires (optional)
At this point I pulled my EGT sensor wires around tied it off to a few harnesses behind the battery box, and fed them into the cabin through the hole for the hood release (same place I ran my oil pressure and oil temp wires)

4.12 -> Install battery box
See 1.1

5 -> Grimmspeed ECBS
Grimmspeed has a pretty good guide already for this. Just note there is no reason to use the little vacuum line adapter they supply when using the BNR, and be careful with the hose, you have just enough to run all 3 lines so it might be a good idea to get some extra. I am not a huge fan of how long the lines are with their install location, but I will give it a shot. If I see slow response I will move it somewhere closer. You will need a 10mm wrench and a 10mm socket for this. Also to use their location you will need a 1/4" drill bit.

I attached their guide incase it goes missing at some point.





6 -> TEST!

6.1 -> Test Map
Next I made a map with 0's in the WGDC column, and timing I know to be conservative from previous testing and flashed it to the car so I could power the car on with and make sure all the connections are good.

6.2 -> Prime the turbo
I don't know if it is really necessary, but I didn't think it worth the chance so I gave the car 3 5 second cranks to get the oil moving before I took it off the jackstands. To do this just press the gaspedal to the floor while you run the starter. Then I went underneath the car to look for leaks again

6.3 -> Power up
Take the car off the jackstands, and power it up. I let it idle for 5 minutes while I listened for leaks at every interface I messed with. Also kept an eye on the STFTs to check for vacuum leaks.

6.4 -> Test drive
Drove around in 4th gear gradually working my way up to WOT watching the STFTs again (excessively positive under boost means a pre-turbo leak, negative means post-turbo leak) Got the oil up to 180º and then parked it in the garage again.

6.5 -> Post test checkout
Let the car sit and then check your turbo connections for leaks again. Go over all the ECBS vacuum lines to see if any budged. ECBS LINES COMING OFF HAVE A HIGH CHANCE OF BLOWING YOUR MOTOR (till lex finishes his guardian angel)

Up next - Tuning!

ATR tuning A BNR Stage 3

Lastest Tuning results (2011-10-27) using 3/9 E85/Gas mix.

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BNR S3 Turbo \ JBR WP 3.5" Intake \ COBB FMIC \ DNP EX MANI \ COBB DP \ MSCBE \ CPE HPFP
CPE Injector Seals \ JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets \ BOZO EGR Delete
BC Coilovers (-2.5º F, -1º R) \ Saitek Front Endlinks \ SPC Rear Camber Arms \ Hotchkis FSB & RSB
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Last edited by Ziggo; 07-04-2012 at 11:28 AM.
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 Old 08-16-2011, 12:07 PM   #2
 
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are you going to use the turbo bracket still to support the turbo? Or are you just using the header to "pull up" the turbo?

Why using a EBCS or MBC ?

Are you reusing stock oil lines ? Or just replacing coolant lines with 6an?
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 Old 08-16-2011, 12:25 PM   #3

 
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A) Stock turbo bracket should bolt right up, it uses the stock hotside.

B) ECBS upgrade is listed as recommended, but not necessary. The 3port should allow me to dial in the boost much more effectively.

C) 6AN tube is to replace the stock coolant hardline so I don't have to modify it. All stock oil lines will be used.


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 Old 08-17-2011, 05:58 AM   #4
 
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Great writeup so far; I didn't/don't have the patience when I did mine lol.

What kind of power gains over stock exhmanifold are you expecting with that turbo?
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 Old 08-17-2011, 06:29 AM   #5

 
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I will be shooting for 330-350 whp.

After I got the manifold out I called it a night. Up this morning is getting the turbo out of there.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 06:44 AM   #6
 
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Nice write up. Subbin for your results.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 09:43 AM   #7

 
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Son of a bitch, I snapped a stud. I have an extra, but don't have an extra nut.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 09:46 AM   #8
 
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this is great stuff so far, thanks
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 Old 08-17-2011, 10:20 AM   #9
 
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Great write up, very detailed. GL on build
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 Old 08-17-2011, 10:31 AM   #10
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nice writeup, but why bother getting aftermarket manifold and sticking with the bnr instead of getting a true 2871?
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 Old 08-17-2011, 10:31 AM   #11
 
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Thanks for making this write up, subbed for results.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 11:16 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by chimmike View Post
nice writeup, but why bother getting aftermarket manifold and sticking with the bnr instead of getting a true 2871?
Many people run an aftermarket exhaust mani on a stock turbo, so not seeing the issue there. I was going to explain the benefit of an aftermarket mani but I know you know this already, better efficiency, spool, yada yada.... What benefit would there be to running a true GT2871 over the stage 3 as I didn't think there was much.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 11:25 AM   #13
 
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Subbed for results. GL with the rest of the install
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 Old 08-17-2011, 11:29 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by shadesofgray19 View Post
Many people run an aftermarket exhaust mani on a stock turbo, so not seeing the issue there. I was going to explain the benefit of an aftermarket mani but I know you know this already, better efficiency, spool, yada yada.... What benefit would there be to running a true GT2871 over the stage 3 as I didn't think there was much.
the garrett housings flow better. The ATP mazda housing isn't great but certainly flows better than stock.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 11:39 AM   #15

 
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Originally Posted by chimmike View Post
the garrett housings flow better. The ATP mazda housing isn't great but certainly flows better than stock.
The option this is most compared to is an ATP 2871, and the only difference between the BNR and an ATP 2871 is the ATP is a ball bearing and the BNR is a journal. They both have .55AR hotsides. The BNR is more of a stock replacement in that compressor exit port is in the exact same location as on the ATP, and since it uses the stock hotside (machined) you can use the stock turbo brace to secure it.

Comparing it to a turbo with a larger EX housing is not really in this "class" of drop in turbos. You will need to fabricate all of your lines, and your only manifold option will be the steedspeed, which I am not a huge fan of. If you are going to do all that, you might as well get something bigger, which I was not really interested in. (when I go big it will be with an EFR sometime down the road)

The benefits of an aftermarket manifold are pretty well documented, and since you have to remove the manifold for this install anyway, it made alot of sense to do both at the same time.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 11:43 AM   #16
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Good reasoning all around!
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 Old 08-17-2011, 02:24 PM   #17
 
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awesome!

What's your target boost you shooting for?
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 Old 08-17-2011, 04:01 PM   #18
 
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This should be sticky ickied.
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 Old 08-17-2011, 04:22 PM   #19

 
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
awesome!

What's your target boost you shooting for?
I will be designing in a boost "creep" curve from 20psi climbing to 22-23psi at redline.

I am doing this to keep the torque #s down while still maximizing HP. Ideally I don't want much more than 330Wtq as I am still on the stock injector seals, and I am not planning on messing with the intake manifold till next summer. If I do it right, I should be able to get a fat power curve from 4.5k and up.

Finishing early for today, gonna get cleaned up and grab some dinner. Gotta pick up new 14mm nuts for the manifold from the dealership, it cost me $11 for two of them, so I would be careful. I left the two easiest to access studs for these, so it should only take me 10min to get them on tomorrow before starting the ECBS install.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 07:03 AM   #20
 
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How much psi is this turbo capable of and will there be any issue with the maf reading inaccurately?
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 Old 08-18-2011, 09:21 AM   #21

 
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I have not seen much documentation on how much this turbo is capable of, I expect it to flow 20psi to redline efficiently and will be testing it at higher boost levels. I saw a dyno plot at cobb plano of a stage 3 making 350whp, but there wasn't a boost plot with it.

The MAF will be interesting and could be what limits me. This turbo is going to take me to the edge of my current maf calibration curve which is at 340g/s at 4.75V. It may be that I have to richen up my AFR targets on the top end to stay safe if this thing starts to lean me out.

I will be load tuning it to avoid cold weather problems. So PSI will be variable based on the ambient temperature.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 04:14 PM   #22

 
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Why didn't I do this earlier? Its 105º outside and I just logged a 260g/s pull on spring pressure.

FUCK

THE

K04


seriously.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 04:18 PM   #23
 
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Bryan told me this turbo is efficient close to 30 psi
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 Old 08-18-2011, 04:47 PM   #24

 
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
Bryan told me this turbo is efficient close to 30 psi
It depends on the RPM. It could probably run 30psi from 3k rpm to 4.5k efficiently, but it will not be able to carry that to a 6700rpm redline on a 2.3L motor.


I am going to forgo writing the EGT install portion as it doesn't really belong here and will require quite a different toolset. I am considering this done, if anyone has any comments let me know. Its the first time I have done anything like this so I bet there are easier ways to do much of it.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 05:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
Bryan told me this turbo is efficient close to 30 psi
Your avatar is fucking hilarious!!!!
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 Old 08-18-2011, 07:41 PM   #26
 
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awesome write up, ill be following this as my plan is similar
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 Old 08-18-2011, 08:23 PM   #27
 
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Yeah, wanted to say thanks for listing the tools necessary for manifold/downpipe removal. I was worried about that the most when I go BT.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 08:38 PM   #28
 
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thanks for the write up, looking good
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 Old 08-18-2011, 09:07 PM   #29
 
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How did you get a hold of him? I tried emailing his website, he doesn't respond.
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 Old 08-18-2011, 09:53 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
It depends on the RPM. It could probably run 30psi from 3k rpm to 4.5k efficiently, but it will not be able to carry that to a 6700rpm redline on a 2.3L motor.


I am going to forgo writing the EGT install portion as it doesn't really belong here and will require quite a different toolset. I am considering this done, if anyone has any comments let me know. Its the first time I have done anything like this so I bet there are easier ways to do much of it.
Just follow up with impressions and any tuning advice you uncover with this turbo setup. There's not a whole lot of info out there on this. I'm interested in a similar set up. I'm just curious if one can really take advantage of these turbos without having to change the MAF, intake piping, downpipe, etc.
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 Old 08-19-2011, 06:36 AM   #31
 
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Really good how-to-guide! Thanks for sharing it all!
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 Old 08-19-2011, 08:47 AM   #32
 
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why put the tmic mounting bracket back on if you aren't using it?
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 Old 08-19-2011, 10:37 AM   #33

 
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Originally Posted by bova80 View Post
why put the tmic mounting bracket back on if you aren't using it?
There is an AC hardline that attaches that bracket also. I didn't have any reason that it couldn't go back on, so I just reused it.
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 Old 08-19-2011, 04:03 PM   #34

 
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First post updated with link to tuning thread.

As for my first impressions, this swap seems to have resulted in similar spool to stock, I cant really tell the difference except by examining logs and even then I am not sure they are comparable since my last log with the K04 took ~500R rpm from 3000 to spool to 20psi @ 70deg and the BNR took about the same to spool to 18.5psi @ 105deg

So as a whole spool is similar, but the top end is where the difference is. The BNR is holding 18.5psi to redline without breaking a sweat in 105deg ambients, where the K04 was falling off to 16.5psi @ 70deg.
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 Old 09-12-2011, 01:21 PM   #35

 
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Trackday report\video

MSR Cresson 3.1 9/10&11/2011

The DNP manifold is no longer a sexy white, it discolored brown a bit, but it's still attached, no cracks, and the coating isn't flaking so I consider is a win.

Zigatapatalka
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 Old 09-12-2011, 06:04 PM   #36
 
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Why racecar?

BECAUSE ZIGGO
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 Old 09-12-2011, 06:49 PM   #37

 
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Manifold as described.

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 Old 09-13-2011, 03:04 PM   #38
 
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that sucks...but at least its not flaking off.
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 Old 09-14-2011, 08:17 AM   #39
 
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Dyno numbers soon or satisfied?
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 Old 09-14-2011, 09:41 AM   #40

 
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Not really satisfied, but undecided about the dyno. I am still going to be making big changes so I don't want to spend the $$ to really dial it in as is.

I need a new clutch, and at a minimum need to install my 3bar map, and injector seals before dialing in my tune. I would like to also get a meth injection system installed, a new intake manifold and clean up my valves before I really try to max out the performance.


Zigatapatalka
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BC Coilovers (-2.5º F, -1º R) \ Saitek Front Endlinks \ SPC Rear Camber Arms \ Hotchkis FSB & RSB
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