Dougefresh's Top Mount Twin Scroll 3076 Build

[spnkr21]

Joel there was a huge thread on the pcv system and that's where some of us started using the Venturi. I've had it on for about 10k now. I'm not sure how much vacuum it creates but I bet it's enough during wot to do the job. I use my IM for a vac source during cruise, Venturi@wot.

[SilverDemon]

Yes, I am using both the intake to pull the vacuum under normal crusing, in WOT situations the check valve on the bottom of the intake shuts as soon as it encounters boost. The exhaust venturi opens as velocity increases. This set up needs 3 ports on the catch can. No, there is nothing fucking secret about this, I posted a thread, with all the different setups and design changes. Once I found the correct and functional design, I posted catchcan pressures and vacuums at different throttle positions including pulling a slight vacuum on the catchcan under WOT conditions.

[Navy_Mech2]

SilverDemon- you wouldnt happen to have a link to your catch can thread would you?

[SilverDemon]

I am on my phone right now and cannot post links. IIRC the name of the thread is crankcase evacuation.

[amoosenamedhank]

BLAMO!

CrankCase Evacuation System

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Doug, if you have the Matt Damond kit you should have the second check valve installed on the manifold side.

I do:



IDK if that one is AFU or what. I am thinking of replacing that w/ the Jeggs Crankcase check valve, but that may not help at all if the MD check valve is fine. I'm also considering ditching the breather filter and going w/ the Venturi set up from valve cover to DP. I was considering a breather back on the intake w/ an other OCC, but one OCC is enough of an oily pita. Plus, I wouldn't trust it to prevent all oil from getting sucked into my intake, new turbo, etc.

I don't like this excessive crankcase pressure shit, lol. It's not the dipstick popping out that bothers me per se, but the pressure itself. I picked up a spring for the dipstick the other day, and it's secure. If the Venturi set up solves the cc pressure problem, that's some cheap insurance, less messy than intake breather/OCC, and from what I've been reading, the excessive crankcase pressure robs some power too.

EDIT: Any of you guys running to the exhaust getting any oil build up at the muffler or blue smoke? Or do you have a catch can between the two? Trying to figure this out and do it right the first time here.

Silver- Your pics in that link are gone

[spnkr21]

I'm running 1 cc but the out has a Y on it. One leads back to IM the other goes to the Venturi. The occ in comes from the crankcase. I havent experienced any smoke or smell I think the cc gets most of it.

Just a side note this setup IS illegal but most people don't know what they're looking at. Also make sure the Venturi is after your cat if you have one.

[SilverDemon]

Yeah, Doug... I forgot that the pics got wiped out after the crash... let me see what I can do, and if you do not mind i can re-post them in this thread.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon Yeah, Doug... I forgot that the pics got wiped out after the crash... let me see what I can do, and if you do not mind i can re-post them in this thread.

Please do! Thanks man.

Well, I went hunting through the meth system to no avail. Checked most all the connections, and replaced some (they were fine in the first place). Double checked the grounds and rewired those too. The 15amp add a fuse is fine also. I went to Autozone and bought a new toggle switched (tapped to positive) hoping it was a dead turd switch, but no luck there either. I think the main controller itself is dead. I'm about to take the nozzle out of the cold pipe, and put the key on, and pump some compressed air in and see if anything happens. If nothing at all, no pump action or anything, I think I need a new controller. I'll have to send it in to Labonte to get checked out. Arghh

[superskaterxes]

i have the jegs CV as well and i was popping dipsticks left and right until i added it. as soon as i did i havent blown it yet. i also drilled holes in the last compartment of my VC baffle right below the 1/2" outlet. i also have my evacuation coming from the VC instead of the stock PCV box on the CC.

any positive pressure in your CC is def bad bad bad

[jmhinkle]

Anthony, what do you have your PCV blocked off with? Are you also t'd in like spanker to the IM for vacuum too?

[forcedinduktion]

sex *69

[dougefresh_]

Ugh, more stuff to buy, lol. This is what I'm thinking of doing. Haven't had a chance to read up anymore yet. Replace MD check valve w/ Jegs CC valve. Have DP drilled and barb on there at *45 deg and run from VC to DP.... with a second OCC between them. Will that reduce my CC pressure enough to be safe if that's all I do?

Also, the juices are finally flowing!


Spent hours today chasing my tail and now I'm super dehydrated, lol. I figured it had to be controller, and was wrestling clip off when I gave skates a ring. He said to fiddle w/ the start/stop psi (both have Labonte w/m). I had turned my start psi down to 0.... if you do that, it will not turn on. As soon as I put the start psi up to 2psi, and blowed compressed air in there, it worked fine. I'm just glad it's working and all is good!!

Now to figure out the CC pressure issue and address it. Oh, I'm also holding a couple psi less than I was at first... around 18psi instead of 20psi (16psi spring). Perhaps the stiffer springs take a little bit to break in like most springs? :/

[rigor]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Ugh, more stuff to buy, lol. This is what I'm thinking of doing. Haven't had a chance to read up anymore yet. Replace MD check valve w/ Jegs CC valve. Have DP drilled and barb on there at *45 deg and run from VC to DP.... with a second OCC between them. Will that reduce my CC pressure enough to be safe if that's all I do? Also, the juices are finally flowing! Spent hours today chasing my tail and now I'm super dehydrated, lol. I figured it had to be controller, and was wrestling clip off when I gave skates a ring. He said to fiddle w/ the start/stop psi (both have Labonte w/m). I had turned my start psi down to 0.... if you do that, it will not turn on. As soon as I put the start psi up to 2psi, and blowed compressed air in there, it worked fine. I'm just glad it's working and all is good!! Now to figure out the CC pressure issue and address it. Oh, I'm also holding a couple psi less than I was at first... around 18psi instead of 20psi (16psi spring). Perhaps the stiffer springs take a little bit to break in like most springs? :/

or giving your block a blow, but it sounds like you got the goods!
but it don't hurt to check and make sure you can't blow back trough that contraption

uhh the springs i don't recall mine changing psi, another thing to check would be the baffle in the valve cover, make sure it is clear not sure if their is that gauze looking shit in their?

i guess you could hook a length of hose, that would slip on the breather, and take the oil cap off and see if you can blow air through it easy! with your lips lol
how does your dipstick fit ?

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by rigor or giving your block a blow, but it sounds like you got the goods! but it don't hurt to check and make sure you can't blow back trough that contraption uhh the springs i don't recall mine changing psi, another thing to check would be the baffle in the valve cover, make sure it is clear not sure if their is that gauze looking shit in their? i guess you could hook a length of hose, that would slip on the breather, and take the oil cap off and see if you can blow air through it easy! with your lips lol how does your dipstick fit ?

I'm gonna replace that huge ass check valve w/ the one I linked above from Jeggs. It's already on it's way, and I already picked up the 1/2NPT to 5/8" barb fitting to go with it. Plus, it's less bulky. There's a chance the MD valve got contaminated during the injector seals install... who knows. I'd rather just replace it.

I've never taken that thing off, and I just had most the stuff out of the way when I changed plugs. I'll just take the lil filter off and odd some hose, remove oil cap and blow through it. Good idea! My dipstick actually fits pretty well. There's a spring on there now, but I think I'm gonna take it off... just let it blow out as needed between now and when i fix this CC issue altogther.


I'm deciding between what I'm thinking of doing (ditch breather and run hose to OCC and to venturi set up in DP. <OR> Doing Silver's 3 port OCC... leave breather as be, and run venturi to third port of OCC. Problem is, I don't have a third port, lol. That and no welding equipment etc. Tim is using some Y-pipe... not sure if he made that or if you can buy it somewhere. If I can just buy it and split it to 3-ports, I'll do Silver's set up. That way I don't have to buy another SM OCC, and only 1 to empty. Plus I'm not sure if the venturi from the valve cover pulls as much vac as from the OCC going to the CC. I PM'd Silver about it, as I was little confused, and I want to address this issue once and move on

[rigor]

I'm deciding between what I'm thinking of doing (ditch breather and run hose to OCC and to venturi set up in DP. <OR> Doing Silver's 3 port OCC... leave breather as be, and run venturi to third port of OCC. Problem is, I don't have a third port, lol. That and no welding equipment etc. Tim is using some Y-pipe... not sure if he made that or if you can buy it somewhere. If I can just buy it and split it to 3-ports, I'll do Silver's set up. That way I don't have to buy another SM OCC, and only 1 to empty. Plus I'm not sure if the venturi from the valve cover pulls as much vac as from the OCC going to the CC. I PM'd Silver about it, as I was little confused, and I want to address this issue once and move on [/QUOTE]

if you run a venturi from the top of the valve cover you will have to add another fresh air inlet so a 3rd port on the cc is the best

[dougefresh_]

Okay, after much harassing of Matt, Scott, Justin, Tim & Anth, I finally have it sorted. I'm going to use a Y-pipe like Tim (local hardware store, plastic 5/8") to make the OCC 3-port.

The "Y" goes on the bottom of the of the OCC and runs to the intake mani and Venturi.
I already ordered the Jeg CC Evac kit (check valve) I listed above to replace the MD one. I have a feeling my stock pcv on the CC may be stuck closed, so I'm thinking of replacing that w another stocker just for good measure. I don't want to mess around down there twice for an extra $20.

Here's the complete parts list w/ links, assuming you already have an SM OCC hooked up:

For Venturi:
Moroso 97810 Moroso Crankcase Evacuation System
Moroso 97800 Moroso Crankcase Evacuation System

CC Evac check valve for between intake mani and OCC (pictured below):
JEGS Performance Products 52211 JEGS Crankcase Evacuation Kit

^^You also need a straight 1/2 NPT to 5/8" brass barb to go w/ that check valve from the hardware store.

Hose:
JEGS Performance Products 102231 JEGS Push-Loc Hose

^That one is blue, like all my OCC hose, but it comes in different flavors. I went w/ 10' as I plan on inspecting and replacing any of my current OCC hose while I'm down there. Is that hose okay? It says it's rated for all fluids/oils, but not gas? wtf

Extra clamps, and possible a 5/8" union. I have one left over from my BT install.


Also, do I need any push lock fittings, or do the check valves secure sections of lines by themselves? Just want to make sure as I just want to put in one order. The hose description says it must be used w/ push lock fittings, but I don't see where they'd be needed except maybe where the check valves attach.

[802MS3]

didn't see it mentioned anywhere, but why are you replacing the check valve that MD provided?

[SilverDemon]

The list looks good, no need for the push loc fittings, the hose will fit over the barbed ends just fine. I do not have an issue with using pushloc hose on the catch can setups. This has been on my car for over 20k miles with out issues due to having a little bit of fuel in the lines. Per your PM, yes, you can get everything set up, and just cap off the the hose going to the exhaust venturi until you can get it the slash cut nipple welded in place.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon The list looks good, no need for the push loc fittings, the hose will fit over the barbed ends just fine. I do not have an issue with using pushloc hose on the catch can setups. This has been on my car for over 20k miles with out issues due to having a little bit of fuel in the lines. Per your PM, yes, you can get everything set up, and just cap off the the hose going to the exhaust venturi until you can get it the slash cut nipple welded in place.

Thanks again for all the help man. I had ordered a OEM PCV valve as well the other day, so I picked that up from Mazda today. I'm going to replace mine w/ a new one. The only thing I don't have (besides some clamps) is the Y-fitting. I may try the hardware store a little later. I came across this piece on Jeggs site that is nice and pretty small, but it's also $40:

JEGS Performance Products 15188 JEGS One-Piece AN to AN Y-Fittings

I don't want to pay to have that thing welded on the OCC, and was thinking a short piece of OCC hose campled to the bottom OCC outlet the Y-Splitter. If I can find a piece of plastic tubing like Tim, I may go that route instead. I also don't want it welded on in case I have to get a new OCC down the road.

Looking forward to getting the parts, and fixing this issue once and for all!!! lol

[dougefresh_]

SO now with the w/m flowing, I was able to take a KR free wot log in third . Love that H20. I added a column with my target wot afrs to the corresponding RPMs, and took the variance in another column. I'm a bit lean at first, but I dipped in pretty late. AFRs afrs are dead on from 4K-5.5K rpms. A little rich at 6K, and pig rich at 6.5K. Boost looks sweet, fuel pressure solid, and no KR (it was waiting for the juice to stop as I get some when I shifted, lol).

Car was struggling to push air as this log was taken with an ambient of 101F! Hot as balls out today. Not sure why my target AFRs dip at 5500 then increase at 6K... I could have sworn it was stage 2 +fmic wot targets. I just wanted a nice rich place to start. Plus my fmic + pipes are smaller, so don't want to push it.

Check out the log and put in your 2 cents

[Navy_Mech2]

damn. just pull some fuel up top and it should be ready for the dyno!

[amoosenamedhank]

I would have expected a lot more load from your setup.... you only crest 2.0 once. Not hating, just saying.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by Navy_Mech2 damn. just pull some fuel up top and it should be ready for the dyno!

Yup, I'm not touching it until I get the stuff from Jegs and rig up the venturi set up to releif my CC pressure. It's hogging metered air, and popping it out my dipstick every time I go wot, lol. Although I'll be purging some metered air w/ the new set up, and least it should be consistent enough to tune for w/ np. Right now, things are a little whacky, and don't see the point in chasing my tail.

Originally Posted by amoosenamedhank I would have expected a lot more load from your setup.... you only crest 2.0 once. Not hating, just saying.

Well, I hit a load of 2.3 and was holding 2.25 thru most of third the other day, and 2.09 in 2nd. It's unusually hot and humid today (log was taken at 101F) so there isn't much 02. I was pushing 365 g/s of air the other day, but today, the BT maxed at only 325 g/s in third. So, yeah, it's hot as hell and the air is thin, which explains it. I also didn't dip in until 3.5K so coulda had her spooling more earlier. I'm sure it'll hit over 375 g/s at the top of 4th when the CC is straightened out and the maf is cal'd.

I was just showing the only log I had w/ no KR so I'd know it was targeting my ol/wot no knock table A, and not some other table. I still a bit rich, especially up top, and have done nothing w/ timing, etc. Need to get mech bs figured first. Once that straight, I can tune. Once no KR under wot, I'm adding my Hallman MBC to tweak her up to 23 psi. Then we'll hop on the dyno.

EDIT: I'll take one more tonight if it cools off a bit and go wot at 2,500 rpms.

[rigor]

do you run a check valve on the venturi also, so you dont draw in exhaust into your intake mani?

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by rigor do you run a check valve on the venturi also, so you dont draw in exhaust into your intake mani?

Yes, Silver posted a diagram in his thread here: CrankCase Evacuation System.

I stole it (99% sure Scott doesn't mind) and here it is:



Silver tested multiple set ups, and the one in the diagram is just sligthly different than the one he's running. He just ditched the the valve cover breather to the intake as he saw no improvement without it with the venturi set up pictured.

If you go up 8 posts to my post #386, under "For Venturi" I included a link to the slash pipe for the DP, and the check valve that goes right after it . Thanks again Riggs & Scott for all the help!! I removed the spring holding in my dipstick to let her pop when she needs to, and it pops every time I go wot, even if only for 1 gear. Looking forward to getting this bitch fixed up and on to tuning

[jmhinkle]

Looking into this whole thing myself to reroute mine. Might go slightly different and run a second slash to the valve cover.

[dcreezy121]

its beautiful all around

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Looking into this whole thing myself to reroute mine. Might go slightly different and run a second slash to the valve cover.

Cool. I didn't realize I had to take the mani off to access the stock pcv valve (been awhile), so I think I'm going to do the vtcs (or whatever it's called) delete, and add a Sure Intake Mani spacer back in while I'm at in. My BATs have been a little hot, and I was getting wot kr before I was spraying water, so I could use a 15F drop in Bats. I'm buying Anthony's diode thingy so I don't get a code from the fapper delete. He said you had a wiring diagram for it? Could you email or PM me that? It's the one he bought from you, lol

Originally Posted by dcreezy121 its beautiful all around

Thank you!

[rigor]

i thought you could turn it off in ap?

[rigor]

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...gaskets-77875/

good buy # in their

all in the first post! they said extra peeps could jump in, i think it is still open

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by rigor i thought you could turn it off in ap?

I'm not sure, but I can't turn off any more shit as I'm do for inspection in a few months. You're allowed 1 not ready code (egr for me), then I'm gonna pop some anti-foulers in the 02 for inspection.

Originally Posted by rigor http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...gaskets-77875/ good buy # in their all in the first post! they said extra peeps could jump in, i think it is still open

Thanks, but I already ordered one from SU

[jracer]

Doug-
you wont get the code if you shut it off with the AP !!
i got rid of my flappers..

[jmhinkle]

You'll still have a not ready for those that need emissions though. The hardwire method is better for VTCS IMHO. Doug, I'll get you the wiring and parts list in a little while. Gotta clean the garage today and I have an idea where it is in there.

[dougefresh_]

Got all my Jeg's goods, and the mani spacer from SU, so I'm ready to go. And not too soon, as that shit is trapping air, my LTFT's have been shuffling around as a result, and I've been backfiring at PT too. Looking forward to getting that shit straight, and tuning her nice. My w/m was leaking at the tank, but I swapped the ghetto tank fitting out for a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting (thanks Skates), and she's all good.

Once that is all good, I'm thinking of hooking the Perrin back up (instead of the Hallman), and adding low ass wgdc so I hit 21-23psi @ 4K up to redline. I'm only peaking at 21PSI due to creep, but not until 5K or so (on a 16psi spring combo). So, small, descending wgdc from 3K to 5K should let me dial that shit to 23psi real nice. Intrerrupt mode reacts fast, so low wgdc should do the trick. Ideally, I'd pop in a somewhat softer spring, with slightly higher wgdc, but FUCK that shit, LOL!! Taking that EWG off is a whore.... I'd rather just run low wgdc.. I know my Perrin can do the job NP. As soon as I get the venturi set up going, and I get the maf cal'd nice, I'll start running my 50/50 mix, and lean out the afrs. I'm currently just spraying h20.

[jmhinkle]

Sorry Douge, I'll get that damn schematic up soon. Swamped with work and shit at the house.

[jmhinkle]

Found it on the computer. Forgot I made a word doc out of it.

[rigor]

here is the lump of aluminum i was telling you about



see port after

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Sorry Douge, I'll get that damn schematic up soon. Swamped with work and shit at the house.

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Found it on the computer. Forgot I made a word doc out of it.

No problem Joel, and thanks for the schematic! I think I'm gonna pass on doing the flapper delete, as Riggs explained it's a pita (esp for someone working outside w/ trees overhead, and strugglin tools!). And fuck you Skates for not telling me that prior to selling me Joel's diode you undercover Italian Jew!!! LOL Expect a Paypal dispute Monday morning, LOL!!!

Originally Posted by rigor here is the lump of aluminum i was telling you about see port after

That shit looks $$$. I'm not fucking with the intake mani tho... just popping in the SURE spacer. Same reason I'm going venturi and not drilling out my valve cover baffle... with my luck I'd get 5 leaves, a few acorns, and some bird shit, floating, and getting blown into my engine, fml. I have enough problems, without waiting for mother nature to try to fuck me... and we all know she's an ugly cunt when she wants to be, and she hates fools w/ no garage.

[superskaterxes]

lol if only my workbench was that clean haha