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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:21 PM   #1
 
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Default How to: ATP Drop in Turbo

I'm doing this to help out with the influx of new BT builds poping up everywhere. If I can do it, so can you. I had helpful tips and threads that I read through to get me through mine but I thought it would be nice to have one thread that was a dedicated "how to".

To do the drop in kit, you will need to buy (along with the turbo) a CPE 4" TIP, and a boost controller (I got the Hallman Pro MBC). It also helps to have a downpipe (I got the CNT catless). You will also need to get a high temp coolant hose to replace the short (less than 1 foot) coolant return line. I also suggest that you get a new turbo flange gasket and an new downpipe gasket.

You are gonna need a few tools for this and I can't remember all of them.

Tools:

Sockets (8mm-18mm)
Socket wrenches (1/4" drive/ 3/8" drive/ 1/2" drive) It also helps to have a variety of sizes
Open/box end wrenches (8mm-18mm) The ones with the swivel on the box end side were a big help.
PB Blaster
Antiseaze
Flat head screwdrivers of various sizes
Various extensions

It doesn't hurt to get a couple of M6x1 studs to bolt the oil return line flange to the block as well. This will keep you from stripping your block like I did. You will need two studs and two flange nuts. You may have to have the studs made. I just got some all thread with the correct thread pattern and bought the nuts from fastenal.

You will also want to replace the flexible part of your coolant return line (not the metal part that bolts to the turbo, that will be kept). Here is what you will need to buy.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/upi/ind...1024_1043_1049
You will need the 5/16" (8mm). You can also get away with the 1/4" (6.5mm). Remeber, it is way easier to replace this before everything is reinstalled on the car. Afterwards it is a nightmare!! So better safe than sorry...

Step 1: Purchase...

You are first gonna need to purchase an ATP drop in turbo kit from a vendor.

Check out EdgeAutosport for a great deal! I highly suggest that you call and talk to someone in person in order to ensure you get exactly what you need.

Step 2: Turbo Kit arrives...

There are a couple things you will need to do once your kit arrives. 1st, you will need to open the boxes and take pictures to post on here. 2nd, you will need to check your tubo over to make sure everything is functioning as it should be. Spin the wheel and it should rotate freely and easily. Then check to make sure there is plenty of clearance between the wastegate actuator rod and the coolant feed line.



ATP has already fixed this issue but it doesn't hurt to be sure before you put it on your car...

You will also need to check and make sure everything in your kit showed up. There should be a steel braided coolant feed line attached to your turbo out of the box, a steel braided oil return line with two flanges (one for turbo side and one for block side), two clothlike gaskets, and two bolts (bolts flange to turbo). There will also be a quick tap boost tap (tap through the silicone between turbo and intercooler) and a brass barb if you plan to tap your compressor housing for a boost source, along with a hot side silicone elbow (2") for you guys with TMIC's. This will have to be modified slightly to fit. There should also be four studs/four(15mm) nuts on the turbo flange, and five studs/five (15mm) nuts on the exhaust housing.

What it looks like out of the box


Step 3: Tare down begins...

Start by removing the TMIC (and the bracket at the back of the valve cover) or the hotpipe (if FMIC), and then remove the intake, the battery box, and the turbo inlet pipe. Also, remove the heat shields on top of the exhaust manifold (8mm socket). Then you can get to the heat shields on the downpipe (if you still have stock downpipe). Remove the o2 sensor and I suggest unplugging as well to get it completely out of the way (the plug is on the driver side just under where the turbo inlet pipe was and you can trace the wire to the right one), then remove the heat shields on the downpipe. At this point if you have time to let it sit for a while I suggest spraying everything down with PB blaster. Spray all the nuts on the ex mani along with the turbo flange and the downpipe. It will make it easier to get off. I left mine to sit over night and soak in PB blaster.



Step 3.5: Tare down continued

We pick back up the next morning where we begin unbolting the downpipe.

There are five 14mm nuts (mine came off like butter). You may have to remove the alternator heat shield to get the dp out. If you already have aftermarket downpipe, make sure you disconect it from the rest of the exhaust and take it out of the exhaust hangers. This will make it easier to move around.

Next you can unbolt the four 14mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold (it will not fall down as it is still connected to the turbo bracket).

Now you are gonna want to disconnect all the coolant/oil lines. Start by removing the oil return line.
After that, you will need to remove the coolant return line (I suggest getting a bowl or something to catch fluid with). Pull it off the turbo side first and drain into bowl (you can either get new coolant or just put it back in later, not all of the coolant will drain out). Once it has stopped dripping, remove the coolant line from the hard coolant pipe. You will not reuse this.

Now you will need to disconnect the Oil feed line. It is a 14mm banjo bolt on top of the turbo. And remove the coolant feed line as well. It helps to clamp off the coolant feed line then remove it where it connects to the hardline on the turbo. This will minimize spills.

Here is the part where you will need a second set of hands. Have a friend go under the car

like this


Once you have unbolted all the 14mm nuts (there are 10) holding the ex mani to the head, hold the mani and the turbo and have your friend disconect the turbo from the turbo bracket (the more friends the marrier on this one). Once it is free from the bracket have your friend come up top and remove the intake manifold while you remove the turbo.

Step 4: Switching Turbos...

We are now at the point where you are replacing this


with this


You will now need to put the OEM coolant return line on the new turbo. ATP supplies a low profile banjo bolt that you will use instead of the OEM banjo. You will need to bend the return line a little to get it to fit right.

Once the coolant return line is on, you will need to install one of the two oil return line flanges onto the new turbo. Use the two bolts that ATP sends to bolt it on. Now you can connect the straight side of the steel braided oil return line to the flange. Once everything is tight, the turbo is ready to be installed.

Step 5: Putting it back together...

You will need to go ahead and remove the turbo bracket completely before installing the new turbo unless you plan on modifying it and reusing it. (Rodrigo's thread)

You need your friend to help you rangle the new turbo and the manifold so both of you get in there. Hold the turbo down low enough for your friend to get the manifold on and a couple nuts started. Then raise the turbo and bolt it to the manifold (don't forget to put the gasket on before you do this).

At this point, you are gonna want to go ahead and connect the downpipe to the turbo. If your downpipe is like mine (and everybody elses probably), the top three nuts will be relatively easy to get to, but the bottom two will be a nightmare.



I cut this 15mm wrench as I found this was the only way I could get to them.


Tighten the downpipe first (since it is not on the hangers or conected to the exhaust, you will still have plenty of play in it), then tighten the nuts on the manifold. Once the manifold is on tight, you can reconect the downpipe to the hangers and the rest of the exhaust. To tighten down the ex mani, you will want to start with the middle and work your way out to the sides in a circular pattern.

841 7
9523610

^^bolt pattern

Step 6: Connecting coolant lines...

Now that your turbo is in place you need to connect the coolant/oil lines.

Connect the new high temp coolant return line to the fitting on the turbo, and then connect it to the hard line.

Next, connect the coolant feed line (which is already attached to the turbo). Do this by snaking it up around and over the compressor inlet.




You can now connect the Oil return line. Put thread the studs you made (or bought) in the block where the return line connects. Use the flange nuts you bought to bolt the flange (that ATP sent with the kit) to the block. Then connect the braided line to the flange.

The Oil feed is the hardest.

You will need to stuff a rag/paper towel into your socket and to keep pressure on the banjo bolt as you thread it in. This will help tremendously while trying to get the threads started. Some people will have to grind the bolt that is next to the oil feed hole on the hotside of the turbo. It was not necessary on mine.

Step 7: Almost done...

Now you are back to what you already know (intake/intercooler). However, the new 4" TIP can be a pretty big pain. The reason is becasue of the hard coolant line that runs in front of the turbo inlet. I suggest replacing this with a flexible line and some T fittings (@bmylez). You can work around it though... You will need to give it some love to flex it out of the way.

Because of the size of the clamp and all the stuff in the way, I had to put the TIP on the turbo inlet without the clamp. I then undid the clamp all the way and fished it around the turbo inlet. You can then put it back together and clamp it down. There is not much room here but a flex head box end (10mm) wrench will be your life saver.

Once the TIP has been installed the rest is easy. Put the battery and the intake back on, and reconnect the intercooler.

Finale Note:

Make sure all your fittings are on tight before you start your car.

or else...


Make sure your boost control is hooked up. You can keep the cel off by putting plugs on the two ports on the OEM BCS and leaving it plugged in. With the MBC you will also need to put a plug on the port that is on the TIP.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks everyone who helped me get through my install.

@Nataphen
@DingoDave
@16-driver
@djuosnteisn
@eric@edgeautosport


Hopefully this will help some of you guys that are looking to do this in the near future. I will be updating this thread with a few more pics and details, and anyone who wants to add something to it please feel free to do so. I will update the OP with all advise.


Bonus:

How to hook up MBC



Originally Posted by Realgib3 View Post
I HIGHLY recommend attaching the vac line to your wg BEFORE you put the turbo in. Much easier than trying to get it on the wg nipple when the turbos already in place.


Threads to Read:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ion-lol-92329/
3071 HOW TO:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ver-too-63559/
BIG TURBO: What do you need?
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Last edited by JacksonMS30; 09-17-2012 at 01:40 PM.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:25 PM   #2
 
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Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:26 PM   #3
 
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Nice write up.

+1
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #4
 
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Thanks for this!!!!
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:33 PM   #5
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Good stuff here. I love the blood picture lmao
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:44 PM   #6
 
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Nice write-up! Thanks for doing this
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 Old 09-22-2011, 02:51 PM   #7
 
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Great write up! I would just like to add a suggestion to the hooking up boost controller part.

I HIGHLY recommend attaching the vac line to your wg BEFORE you put the turbo in. Much easier than trying to get it on the wg nipple when the turbos already in place.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 05:32 PM   #8
 
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Clicking the thanks button wasn't enough, so I'm saying thanks here.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 08:39 PM   #9
 
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I love dudes! Oh yeah, and thanks for the write up.
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 Old 09-23-2011, 06:48 AM   #10
 
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yay for IWG

=p

thanks for the write up
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 Old 09-25-2011, 02:27 PM   #11
 
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Does anybody know if it's necessary to remove the exhaust mani to install an ATP GTX3071 sized turbo?
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 Old 09-26-2011, 09:06 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by vbt101 View Post
Does anybody know if it's necessary to remove the exhaust mani to install an ATP GTX3071 sized turbo?
Yes it is necessary.
Its not as hard as it looks...
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 Old 09-26-2011, 09:19 AM   #13
 
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Awesome thread. Really helps to break things down for the install. Gonna be a while, but can't wait to tackle this project in the summer!
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 Old 09-26-2011, 09:31 AM   #14
 
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 Old 09-26-2011, 10:04 AM   #15
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Nice write up homie!
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 Old 09-28-2011, 02:51 PM   #16
 
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This needs to be sticky so I don't have to dig for it when I want to update it... lol!
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 Old 10-04-2011, 04:12 PM   #17
 
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Any guidance on how to thread the studs into the turbo? Do they need to be torqued down or just finger tight?
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 Old 10-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #18
 
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The point of studs is not being torqued down. The nut provides the torque. If the stud won't thread all the way in by hand, you can help it with a pair of pliers, but you don't need to wrench on it...and be careful of the threads!
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 Old 10-04-2011, 04:56 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by vbt101 View Post
Any guidance on how to thread the studs into the turbo? Do they need to be torqued down or just finger tight?
First of all, what @bmylez said about the studs...

Remember, you don't need studs for the turbo, the studs go into the engine block.
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 Old 10-04-2011, 06:45 PM   #20
 
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Sorry if this a bit off topic but are you still running the TMIC?
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 Old 10-04-2011, 08:12 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 View Post
First of all, what @bmylez said about the studs...

Remember, you don't need studs for the turbo, the studs go into the engine block.
Gotcha. I was talking about the studs that ship with the turbo from ATP to mate with the downpipe and mani. So this don't torque em down thing still applies to those?
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 Old 10-04-2011, 08:41 PM   #22
 
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The use of studs is universal. You don't need to torque them down, just make sure they are fully threaded in. There's a reason that studs don't come with any provisions for a socket or special wrench. The OEM manifold studs have E-torx heads so you can get them out, but those don't need to be wrenched down either.
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 Old 10-04-2011, 09:58 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by R3L3NTL3S View Post
Sorry if this a bit off topic but are you still running the TMIC?
Yes he is still running the CS TMIC for now. I will also be going that rout with my build too.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 04:48 AM   #24
 
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@Stang thanks for the clarification.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 06:22 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by vbt101 View Post
Gotcha. I was talking about the studs that ship with the turbo from ATP to mate with the downpipe and mani. So this don't torque em down thing still applies to those?
I didn't get any studs from atp for the oil return line (where it connects to the turbo). They sent some allen bolts and you will need to make sure they are tight. I don't know the torque spec though...
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 Old 10-05-2011, 06:52 AM   #26
 
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l@JacksonMS30 you said that the short high temp line needs replaced with a longer one. I'm assuming your talking about the blue line that's on the turbo?
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 Old 10-05-2011, 02:38 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by stang9779 View Post
l@JacksonMS30 you said that the short high temp line needs replaced with a longer one. I'm assuming your talking about the blue line that's on the turbo?
No. That is the coolant feed line and it is fine. The one you need to replace with a high temp (slightly longer) line is the coolant return. You will need less than a foot of line to do the job. I don't have a good picture of it right now otherwise I'd show you exactly, but through process of elimination, you should be able to figure it out.

Oil feed is on top of the turbo. Oil return is on the bottom and requires the flange that ATP sends. Coolant feed is already on the turbo and does not need to be modified. Coolant return, you will reuse the OEM fitting from your k04 for the coolant return. You will need to bend this a little to clear the compressor housing. You will need to connect this to the hard coolant line that runs infront of the turbo inlet (and is a pain/in the way of the tip). You connect these two lines with the hight heat coolant line which is 5/16ths I believe (I used 6mm and it fit nice and snug).
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 Old 10-16-2011, 10:44 PM   #28
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Very helpful thread. Looks like I wasn't the only one having issues with the top oil feed banjo (among other things).
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 Old 10-18-2011, 07:42 PM   #29
 
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I just did my install a few days ago on my GenPU and this instructions are spot on.
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 Old 10-19-2011, 08:06 AM   #30
 
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I'm glad this thread was able to help!
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 Old 11-09-2011, 08:41 AM   #31
 
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Nice write up, going to use this if I ever go big turbo. :tup:
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 Old 12-09-2011, 09:20 AM   #32
 
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@JacksonMS30

What did you tap for your boost source? Or is it there already.

Brushing up, and getting ready for my install next weekend.

Thanks.
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 Old 12-09-2011, 09:41 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Vader View Post
@JacksonMS30

What did you tap for your boost source? Or is it there already.

Brushing up, and getting ready for my install next weekend.

Thanks.
I tapped the the silicone boost tube that ATP supplies with the turbo. It was just easier that way. They send a silicone tap and a threaded NPT (i believe) tap incase you want to tap the turbo itself. If you have time before the install, you may want to go ahead and get the turbo tapped for your boost source. There is a spot on the compressor side that is meant to be drilled and tapped for a boost source.
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Vader (12-09-2011)
 Old 12-09-2011, 10:51 AM   #34
 
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Cool, thanks
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 Old 12-09-2011, 11:08 AM   #35
 
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Why can't you re-use the stock boost solenoid?
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 Old 12-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Domino81 View Post
Why can't you re-use the stock boost solenoid?
Because it is crap..... It will most likely break when you try to pull the lines off of it
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 Old 12-09-2011, 04:10 PM   #37
 
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Fair enough. What's the name of the other electronic boost control option we have?
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 Old 12-09-2011, 06:34 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Domino81 View Post
Fair enough. What's the name of the other electronic boost control option we have?
Grimmspeed is the one I am using
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 Old 12-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #39
 
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Yeah, that's the one I'm thinking of.
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 Old 12-10-2011, 12:53 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Domino81 View Post
Why can't you re-use the stock boost solenoid?
Originally Posted by burn813 View Post
Because it is crap..... It will most likely break when you try to pull the lines off of it
Well, that's just if you're not careful. The true reason is that the stocker can't handle all the air that a BT throws at it. Also, I'm not sure if you need a pill with the Grimmspeed...
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