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 Old 02-17-2013, 04:10 PM   #1
 
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Default Installing large intake - MS6

Got what is hopefully a quick question. I'm running a 3071 which was originally installed by Cobb in Dallas, using the CPE big turbo silicone intake. I'm upgrading to the HTP 3.5" intake. There is a gizmo in the way. Here are some pictures. In the pictures, you can see mounting bolts for it. So, I'm figuring that I just have to unbolt it and discard it. But, I figured I'd post pictures so people can tell me for sure what I'm looking at and what the best solution is. Note that Cobb installed the CPE intake with the gizmo in place and it deformed the shape of the intake to some degree. But more or less worked. I can't do that with the hard pipe of the HTP. Here are the pics. Thanks.




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 Old 02-17-2013, 04:21 PM   #2
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 Old 02-17-2013, 04:58 PM   #3
 
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Looks like a bracket for that hose, My 6 never had some shit like that
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 Old 02-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #4
 
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I believe you're referring to the small black metal bracket for the shifter cables.
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 Old 02-17-2013, 05:40 PM   #5
 
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I am assuming that your 3.5 inlet HTP doesn't clear the bracket that hold shifter and if so you can't remove that bracket just contact HTP and let them know your problem so they can revise the inlet
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 Old 02-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #6
 
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Okay, now it sounds like my problem is my fucking Steedspeed manifold. I get the swept-back version which I was told placed the turbo farther from the block, closer to the firewall, supposedly for more room. But, I'm thinking it put the turbo too low. For there is no way to make a 3.5" intake fit here. You can't tell 3-dimensions from my pictures, but the bracket is right in line with the turbo.

I had been told that I should consider getting a CPE manifold instead to maximize my potential. Looks like I may have to. But, that would mean I will need to have my downpipe refabbed again. Grrr. I guess I need to verify for sure that the CPE manifold doesn't have this problem, but I presume it doesn't.
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 Old 02-17-2013, 08:45 PM   #7
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That bracket is for the rubber isolator that positions the shifter cables. I have seen many MS3's come through the shop that don't have the rubber isolator pushed on the bracket (due to who ever worked on it) with no ill effect. I would remove that metal bracket, but I will get back to you in the morning after looking for a more viable option.

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 Old 02-17-2013, 10:17 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by HTP View Post
That bracket is for the rubber isolator that positions the shifter cables. I have seen many MS3's come through the shop that don't have the rubber isolator pushed on the bracket (due to who ever worked on it) with no ill effect. I would remove that metal bracket, but I will get back to you in the morning after looking for a more viable option.
Thanks. But, from what you've seen of other MS6's, is my turbo lower than usual?
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 Old 02-18-2013, 06:10 AM   #9
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we had this same problem this weekend on @RichieRichness; car but his JBR 3.5" intake cleared just fine. A silicone inlet is the best choice because it can deform however you want it to and never lose the total ID.

and i would never remove that bracket because it hold your shiftier cables at the correct angle to make sure they dont get caught on anything. It would be like having a cable actuated throttle with no mount for the linkage.
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 Old 02-18-2013, 07:23 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by HTP View Post
That bracket is for the rubber isolator that positions the shifter cables. I have seen many MS3's come through the shop that don't have the rubber isolator pushed on the bracket (due to who ever worked on it) with no ill effect. I would remove that metal bracket, but I will get back to you in the morning after looking for a more viable option.

Matt
Based on what Superskaterxes and others say, it doesn't sound like removing the bracket is a good idea. Perhaps you can fab a replacement bracket that holds the cables from a position a couple of inches further down? I would of course pay you for such a bracket. And you might could sell it to other customers.
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 Old 02-18-2013, 08:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Speedie6 View Post
Thanks. But, from what you've seen of other MS6's, is my turbo lower than usual?
Your turbo does look much lower.

Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
we had this same problem this weekend on @richierichnes; car but his JBR 3.5" intake cleared just fine. A silicone inlet is the best choice because it can deform however you want it to and never lose the total ID.

and i would never remove that bracket because it hold your shiftier cables at the correct angle to make sure they dont get caught on anything. It would be like having a cable actuated throttle with no mount for the linkage.
Which manifold does he have? Our intake uses a tighter bend radius than the JBR so I believe his issue is in how low his turbo is sitting.

That bracket is there just to help with the routing of the shift cables. The shift cables are still securely mounted to the transmission. I agree that removing it is not the first option.

Originally Posted by Speedie6 View Post
Based on what Superskaterxes and others say, it doesn't sound like removing the bracket is a good idea. Perhaps you can fab a replacement bracket that holds the cables from a position a couple of inches further down? I would of course pay you for such a bracket. And you might could sell it to other customers.
One possible solution would be to bend that post down the rotate the the rubber isolator 180*. That will give you the clearance that you need. If you have no clue what i'm talking about, let me know, and I'll dig one out of my spare parts and show you.

*Just looked a speed 6 tranny here and the bracket on ours is facing the opposite way......Is there any way you can rotate that bracket around?

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 Old 02-18-2013, 08:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by HTP View Post
Your turbo does look much lower.



Which manifold does he have? Our intake uses a tighter bend radius than the JBR so I believe his issue is in how low his turbo is sitting.

That bracket is there just to help with the routing of the shift cables. The shift cables are still securely mounted to the transmission. I agree that removing it is not the first option.



One possible solution would be to bend that post down the rotate the the rubber isolator 180*. That will give you the clearance that you need. If you have no clue what i'm talking about, let me know, and I'll dig one out of my spare parts and show you.

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hes using the stock manifold.
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 Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by HTP View Post
Your turbo does look much lower.
Thanks for confirming. I now certainly regret getting the SS manifold. But, at the time I got it, I thought it was supposed to be the greatest fucking thing since Internet porn.

I might yet get the CPE, but, I'd have to get the DP refabbed or buy a new one.

Originally Posted by HTP View Post
One possible solution would be to bend that post down the rotate the the rubber isolator 180*. That will give you the clearance that you need. If you have no clue what i'm talking about, let me know, and I'll dig one out of my spare parts and show you.
I think I got the concept. I will pull the bracket off and see what I can do.
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 Old 02-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #14
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You may be able to slightly deform the intake and make it fit. As long as it still seals with the coupler how much massaging work would the pipe need to clear?
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 Old 02-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #15
 
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What if you trimmed a bit off the turbo side of the intake pipe? Might give you a tad more clearance. My JBR was very close but clears it by about 1/2"
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 Old 02-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by HTP View Post
One possible solution would be to bend that post down the rotate the the rubber isolator 180*. That will give you the clearance that you need. If you have no clue what i'm talking about, let me know, and I'll dig one out of my spare parts and show you.

*Just looked a speed 6 tranny here and the bracket on ours is facing the opposite way......Is there any way you can rotate that bracket around?

Well, this sounded like a perfect idea. I can rotate the bracket such that the pin comes up rearward of the cables instead if between cables and turbo. It would only be held on by one bolt, but, put some locktite on it and that would be more than adequate.

Problem is, the rubber piece isn't removable to turn around 180 degrees without disconnecting the cables. Actually, two cables run through it, and it looks like the bottom pops open to allow you to remove the bottom cable. But the top is solid rubber. I'd have to cut it. And then it wouldn't hold anymore.

But, for test fitment, I did just remove the bracket to see how your intake will fit. Due to it mounting the turbo in the wrong place, it doesn't fit. Not your fault of course. I'll post pictures in your forum.
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 Old 02-21-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
 
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Would the 3.5 intake make that much of a difference to have to get another manifold and custom fab a dp? Stick with the 3inch and call it day..
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 Old 02-22-2013, 12:31 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by maddocx240 View Post
Would the 3.5 intake make that much of a difference to have to get another manifold and custom fab a dp? Stick with the 3inch and call it day..
I guess I wasn't clear. No, I certainly would not get another manifold just to upgrade the intake!

The thing is, when I bought the Steedspeed manifold, I thought it was supposed to be the greatest thing since oral sex. Now I understand it isn't so hot, and that the CPE manifold is now the gold standard for manifolds.

Thus, it had been recommended to me to get a CPE and ditch the SS if I really want to hit the higher HP levels. And, I might do that. I don't know.

But, at the moment, this is what I'm doing. Matt is making me a 3.5" intake that will fit with the SS manifold. Which is great, but, if I eventually do decide to go CPE, I'll have to get another intake again, and a new DP.
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360 AWD HP/380 TQ Cobb Mustang Dyno: 3071 .83 A/R, Steedspeed manifold, CPE FMIC, Cobb AP/tuning, CP pistons, Pauter Rods, CPE DP hacked to have V-band, GHL exhaust
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