So, about the new Corksport turbo...

[speedfreak44]

I thought it was stated earlier that the cobb maxes around 365ish whp

[acousticdefbot]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I thought it was stated earlier that the cobb maxes around 365ish whp

from raider's thread:

Originally Posted by Justin@Freektune A Cobb Intake will make around 365hp worth of airflow. A 3.5" intake on a speed 3 will support north of 600 worth of airflow.

i suppose "around" is the operative word there. whether the numbers are a little happy or not, that's a great power curve. this tiny turbo is baller.

[speedfreak44]

Hey Im all about those figures. I plan on staying with my cobb sf maf sensor and shooting for 340-350ish on that turbo

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by Voltwings It would be interesting to see a log from that pull and see what MAF voltage was being hit. I dont mean to come across as a naysayer, i just like to approach all things with a healthy dose of skepticism Im happy to admit i was "wrong" when proven so.

That and enough potential fuel energy in a 4/8 mix to reach 380whp. That will depend if 100% IDCs were tossed out the window in favor of POWAH.

[Chriss]

I know you have to put some oil into the turbo before 1st start, but is it also necessary to prime the turbo ? Does it work if I pull off the fuel pump fuse?

[RJTSi]

Originally Posted by Chriss I know you have to put some oil into the turbo before 1st start, but is it also necessary to prime the turbo ? Does it work if I pull off the fuel pump fuse?

If you pin the throttle to the floor during cranking, it will cut the injectors off and allow you to prime the oil system without flooding

[Raider]

Originally Posted by Chriss I know you have to put some oil into the turbo before 1st start, but is it also necessary to prime the turbo ? Does it work if I pull off the fuel pump fuse?

Originally Posted by RJTSi If you pin the throttle to the floor during cranking, it will cut the injectors off and allow you to prime the oil system without flooding

That's what I did. Priming the oil system was not past of my install instructions. Could have been but I was exhausted. Was making it bypass cold start high RPMs at 12:30 AM.

[RJTSi]

Well, I Got the car back together on Wednesday after snapping the exhaust cam in half on a 4th gear pull. I am missing out on some low end power/torque because I'm ramping boost up to 5k and holding from there to redline (24 psi). I'm doing this because I was having some issues with the clutch or transfer case or something slipping between 3800-4500 when targeting 22 down there. It was a strange slip though. Usually clutch slip just feels like the rpms climbing but without going any faster and then then it finally grabs. While it did do that, it also had some mechanical grinding that I could feel in the pedal too. This is my first awd car so i didn't know if the transfer case could be the culprit or something. After ramping the boost up, instead of targeting peak @3500 and holding that to redline, I've yet to have the slipping issue. Threw a base tune together on Wednesday night and have made 4 revisions since. Unfortunately, I had a timing component fail on me Friday afternoon. Vvt or tensioner or something, leaving me with a shit ton of chain slack and chain slapping the valve cover. This VVT/chain only has about 7k miles on it, but it (and the motor) has been through a massive car fire in my speed3 as well as snapping the exhaust cam last Friday (6/12). So I'll be down for a bit. We decided to pull the motor, take it apart, and spec everything, replace VVt/chain and anything else. Who knows what kind of havoc the fire reeked on it so I want to ensure I don't keep on running into these dumb issues. I'm on a e30 mix (no meth...yet). I still have some room to add more boost and timing. I'm peaking at 19 degrees advanced at redline and my IDCs are at 96%. I'm absolutely loving this turbo so far. Photo shows the base map from Wednesday night to latest datalog done on Friday morning.

[Chriss]

Thanks guys for the tip

Originally Posted by RJTSi Well, I Got the car back together on Wednesday after snapping the exhaust cam in half on a 4th gear pull. I am missing out on some low end power/torque because I'm ramping boost up to 5k and holding from there to redline (24 psi). I'm doing this because I was having some issues with the clutch or transfer case or something slipping between 3800-4500 when targeting 22 down there. It was a strange slip though. Usually clutch slip just feels like the rpms climbing but without going any faster and then then it finally grabs. While it did do that, it also had some mechanical grinding that I could feel in the pedal too. This is my first awd car so i didn't know if the transfer case could be the culprit or something. After ramping the boost up, instead of targeting peak @3500 and holding that to redline, I've yet to have the slipping issue. Threw a base tune together on Wednesday night and have made 4 revisions since. Unfortunately, I had a timing component fail on me Friday afternoon. Vvt or tensioner or something, leaving me with a shit ton of chain slack and chain slapping the valve cover. This VVT/chain only has about 7k miles on it, but it (and the motor) has been through a massive car fire in my speed3 as well as snapping the exhaust cam last Friday (6/12). So I'll be down for a bit. We decided to pull the motor, take it apart, and spec everything, replace VVt/chain and anything else. Who knows what kind of havoc the fire reeked on it so I want to ensure I don't keep on running into these dumb issues. I'm on a e30 mix (no meth...yet). I still have some room to add more boost and timing. I'm peaking at 19 degrees advanced at redline and my IDCs are at 96%. I'm absolutely loving this turbo so far. Photo shows the base map from Wednesday night to latest datalog done on Friday morning.

Nice curve ! Are you self tuned?

[RJTSi]

Originally Posted by Chriss Thanks guys for the tip Nice curve ! Are you self tuned?

Yessir. I had a background in tuning megasquirt setups before coming to this platform. Also I've been tuning since ATR was released on day 1 so I've been around the block a bit .

[aromig]

Originally Posted by RJTSi I'm doing this because I was having some issues with the clutch or transfer case or something slipping between 3800-4500 when targeting 22 down there. It was a strange slip though. Usually clutch slip just feels like the rpms climbing but without going any faster and then then it finally grabs. While it did do that, it also had some mechanical grinding that I could feel in the pedal too. This is my first awd car so i didn't know if the transfer case could be the culprit or something. After ramping the boost up, instead of targeting peak @3500 and holding that to redline, I've yet to have the slipping issue.

Fwiw, when the transfer case on my '95 GSX shit the bed, it felt nothing like a slipping clutch (which I also had happen with that car, but years later). From what I recall, the symptoms were a godawful amount of gear/bearing noise and a major drag on the engine. Almost felt like trying to drive with the parking brake 75% engaged.

I suppose if the health of the clutch is somewhat compromised, it could slip some from all the drag. If you put the car on jackstands and listened underneath to it running, it would be hard to miss the sound.

[RJTSi]

Originally Posted by aromig Fwiw, when the transfer case on my '95 GSX shit the bed, it felt nothing like a slipping clutch (which I also had happen with that car, but years later). From what I recall, the symptoms were a godawful amount of gear/bearing noise and a major drag on the engine. Almost felt like trying to drive with the parking brake 75% engaged. I suppose if the health of the clutch is somewhat compromised, it could slip some from all the drag. If you put the car on jackstands and listened underneath to it running, it would be hard to miss the sound.

That actually sounds precisely what it sounded/felt like. It was violent enough for me to let off the throttle right away

[ericrapp0507@gmail.com]

Just been catching up today on all the goings ons.
Still have not installed the CS turbo. waiting on someone to sell me an exh mani. hopefully. do it all at once right?
already have CS TBE from 2008. using HF cat right now.
My question is , since i have an original install of AEM Mazdaspeed CAI and a TIP. i might as well swap that shit out now . so what should i replace it with? and can i get those things cheaply?

Not going to max it out to 450 but i sure want to let it breath deeply.
btw thanks for all the folks adding to the discussion.
learning is Fun!

Originally Posted by everton99 Do you call it James Bond? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

now i do!

[aromig]

On the cheap, I would look for a used 3" and do the ecu mod for room. If you can swing it though, I highly recommend a JBR 3.5" and a Corksport battery box. That's my current setup, and I loves it.

[RJTSi]

As others have said, I too noticed a reduction is yummy turbo sounds going to a big intake (Rambo 3.5") . Still sounds great though.

[Justin@Freektune]

Standard sized intakes max out very easy on this turbo, so she wants to breathe. 4.8 maf volts at 20-21psi. @JgamB; @dalegribble; data for your viewing pleasure.

This is a speed6, Sure intake

[Awal]

I'd recommend going with a 3.5 intake right off the bat, even if you don't have plans to go directly to a bigger turbo right away.

I've been running Corksport's 3.5" power series SRI/TIP (and ECU relocate BBox) and I love it on the stock K04. I think the big intake (and the tune obviously) is a big part of the reason my car likes to make peak HP at about 6-6300rpm. I haven't seen many logs or vdynos from K04s making peak power that high or that long in the rev range.

I don't have numbers from a stock sized SRI/TIP/MAF to compare it to, but I doubt it's hurting me at all, maybe a teeny bit less responsive?


Anyways, that stuff doesn't really matter, for the Corksport turbo it's already been shown over and over that it wants to breathe more than a stock-3" intake will let it. Almost everyone tuning/testing the turbo right now have either already stepped up to 3.5" or they are about to do it. Better to buy/install once than twice.

[aromig]

Originally Posted by Justin@Freektune Standard sized intakes max out very easy on this turbo, so she wants to breathe. 4.8 maf volts at 20-21psi. @JgamB; @dalegribble; data for your viewing pleasure. This is a speed6, Sure intake

Justin, question for you. Have you had any experience with this turbo and aftermarket TMICs yet? I realize this turbo is going to be more efficient, and cooler, at a given psi than a k04, but it should be moving a greater volume as well. Provided you already have a big intake, would a TMIC such as the Corksport/CPE/ETS allow enough air flow? If not, at what point would it become a bottleneck?

[Justin@Freektune]

Originally Posted by aromig Justin, question for you. Have you had any experience with this turbo and aftermarket TMICs yet? I realize this turbo is going to be more efficient, and cooler, at a given psi than a k04, but it should be moving a greater volume as well. Provided you already have a big intake, would a TMIC such as the Corksport/CPE/ETS allow enough air flow? If not, at what point would it become a bottleneck?

The upgraded top mount intercoolers work very well and also flow excellent. So they will work great on this turbo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ericrapp0507@gmail.com]

i just found an exhaust manifold for sale and on its way. now that i have the CP-e FMIC replacing the 3.5 ETS, i can fit it in there. Battery tray already switched over and using the Braille 17. should leave plenty of room for a 3.5 intake run.
Thanks for the assist folks!
i am going to look at CAI though always been a proponent for freshest air in. couple of weeks we should be tuning. i have a couple projects overdue once i get the car up and taking shit apart again. pulleys gaskets deletes and such.
i so hate to take the car down during summer months ; (

[Raider]

Just get SRI. Unless you like hydrolocking.

[AwAfrican]

Whale penis! Do it!

[someguy]

Originally Posted by ericrapp0507@gmail.com i just found an exhaust manifold for sale and on its way. now that i have the CP-e FMIC replacing the 3.5 ETS, i can fit it in there. Battery tray already switched over and using the Braille 17. should leave plenty of room for a 3.5 intake run. Thanks for the assist folks! i am going to look at CAI though always been a proponent for freshest air in. couple of weeks we should be tuning. i have a couple projects overdue once i get the car up and taking shit apart again. pulleys gaskets deletes and such. i so hate to take the car down during summer months ; (

There aren't many (any?) 3 or 3.5" CAI intakes. I swapped my cp-e CAI to a CS 3" SRI and gained power.

[GARRETHEXTREME]

Yeah, it is just better to go with 3" or larger SRI, it'll net you some good hp with a tune

TAPPPPPin

[aromig]

If you really want cooler air, better to modify or fab a cold air box for a short ram of your choice in size. I'ma beat this dead horse, CAIs in turbo cars induce a drop in intake pressure. This drop in pressure makes the turbo work harder, and hotter, offsetting any gains. So why bother? Unless, as Raider said, you really like a chance of hydrolock.

[Raider]

Sri with a TMIC or FMIC upgrade is better than a CAI.

[GARRETHEXTREME]

Plus meth or e85 would definitely be icing on the cake

TAPPPPPin

[acousticdefbot]

i love cold air intakes. i blew up my mustang's engine with one. i wouldn't be driving my speed if it weren't for that. i'm forever indebted to them.

[Raider]

Haha!!

[Awal]

Yah, I forgot to mention, there's a Corksport TMIC lurking under that stock TMIC shroud in the above pictures in post #978 , and it was the very first power mod I installed. I didn't have my AP yet, but a full WOT pulls on the freeway, from 2-3-4-5-6th showed (on the stock tach, which is a few 100 rpm off) that my car, with the stock airbox, now made it's power almost all the way to redline (6500 on the MS3 tach). It did so in every gear, every time.

Before installing the CS TMIC my car would consistently fall flat on it's face (power-wise) at around 5500-5800 rpm (MS3 tach). I wouldn't doubt it if it actually made more peak HP as well, but whether it did or didn't, it AT LEAST made the same power 800-1000 RPM longer.

800-1000rpm of more power before shifting makes a world of difference, in lots of situations. Often many bolt on parts can net you power you can notice, barely, but this is something that is HIGHLY and IMMEDIATELY noticeable. There is no guessing, doubt or placebo effect. And those 1st several WOT pulls were all without the shroud installed (i was trimming it), so I wasn't getting the full benefit of the scoop.

So yeah, ANY turbo is going to benefit from an upgraded TMIC, from what I've read, for probably 80% of most MZR 2.3 DISI owner's power goals, and upgraded TMIC will be more than capable. For the people looking for up to 400-450 whp, add WMI and you're still probably fine. It's above that when the FMICs are really going to make the big difference and be worth the cost. This paragraph is just rough estimates/guesses based on a huge amount of reading online info and talking to other owners.

[aromig]

I would guess that an upgraded TMIC or a SRI, sans tune, would both net you about the same amount of gains, simply due to the reduced pressure drop of each. Turbo's not working as hard at the same stock psi levels (so cooler air), increasing power and happiness of the butt-o-meter (which is after all, what matters most).

BTW, nice comparison pics!

[Awal]

Originally Posted by aromig I would guess that an upgraded TMIC or a SRI, sans tune, would both net you about the same amount of gains, simply due to the reduced pressure drop of each. Turbo's not working as hard at the same stock psi levels (so cooler air), increasing power and happiness of the butt-o-meter (which is after all, what matters most). BTW, nice comparison pics!

thank you aromig.

I think peak WHP gains would lean heavily towards the SRI/TIP's favor on a dyno, but an AP is needed to get it to run with a very simple DIY MAF calibration. So yer butt may tingle a little more for the SRI/TIP in the end, but for no none-sense, no AP, clear to see, SUPER easy to install, stock look, obvious gains, the TMIC is VERY hard to beat.

The 2 of them though, look like they work best together, check out my build thread to see logs/vdynos on a K04 with both of these bolt-ons on a very conservative tune.

[JgamB]

I'll be the naysayer here - my CS TMIC did a great job of reducing pumping losses, but doesn't compare in the least to the TR8 FMIC (plumbed with JBR piping). My typical 2-3-4 WOT pull would result in a 30+F BAT increase on the TMIC, and only increases 12F like clockwork on the TR8 core. The only way I would've kept the TMIC was with a meth kit to offset the lack of cooling but take advantage of the simplicity and minimal volume to fill.

[aromig]

Meth kit to complement my Corksport TMIC will likely be my next investment, now that my puppy turbo and injector seals are on order. As you mentioned, I like the idea of less volume to fill. I'll take any spool time savings I can get. That said though, if I had a genjuan or a MS6 I would probably have gone FMIC. Glad we have a good number of options for our cars.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by JgamB I'll be the naysayer here - my CS TMIC did a great job of reducing pumping losses, but doesn't compare in the least to the TR8 FMIC (plumbed with JBR piping). My typical 2-3-4 WOT pull would result in a 30+F BAT increase on the TMIC, and only increases 12F like clockwork on the TR8 core. The only way I would've kept the TMIC was with a meth kit to offset the lack of cooling but take advantage of the simplicity and minimal volume to fill.

Oh yes, you are most definitely right about any TMIC not comparing as far as reducing BATS when compared to a decent FMIC set up. Even the dinky lil front "side" mounts will do a better job just because of the massive amount of fresh air, and the fact they don't act like a heat-sink for your motor. Out of all the stock TMICs I've seen, and upgraded TMICs that still fit perfectly with the mounting points and hoods I do think we are pretty lucky with what we start out with. And there is the level 1 skill (and literally minutes) it takes to upgrade your TMIC compared to the level 3-4 skill (and about a day for the average joe) for a FMIC install along with cost are other factors to consider.


I wanted something plug and play that was going to be good enough for my needs for the next 1-2 years. Resale on MS3 parts in pretty decent, so I can always sell my TMIC and upgrade to a FMIC later.


Another big factor I think makes a big difference for deciding whether to upgrade the TMIC or go FMIC is where you live. In my case we only have about 2 months of 80-90 degree weather if we're lucky, so with some WMI those 2 months of heat should be negligible.


But yeah TMICs are always fighting an uphill battle by sitting on the engine, it's hard to get around that. There are gains to be had by upgrading them to a better TMIC or a FMIC, but there are factors that can make one seem like a better idea than the other for each situation.


To really really max out this puppy it'll be easier to do so with a good FMIC, but the upgraded TMIC guys with WMI should get pretty close. We'll see I hope.

[memin]

back on topic!! any new numbers on the Corksport turbo lol.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by memin back on topic!! any new numbers on the Corksport turbo lol.

lol, yes please, numbers, gimme gimme!

I don't think we actually went off topic in the grand scheme of things, considering IC discussions/options apply directly to any turbo upgrade, especially a 'drop-in', keep everything looking/running as close to stock (cept power) as possible turbo (kinda the way I look at this offering from CS).

As it stands I think the updates are coming through as fast as they are being produced, for the most part, it's just not all in this thread.

Here's to new #s !

[Chriss]

Originally Posted by memin back on topic!! any new numbers on the Corksport turbo lol.

2 weeks (lol)

Really 2 weeks

[ericrapp0507@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by GARRETHEXTREME Plus meth or e85 would definitely be icing on the cake TAPPPPPin

well there is that : ) .
all in good time...

ordered bIg SRI. after some searching.

side note. my nearly first install was the ETS 3.5. that was able to move the air nicely and revved. sucked at the track when waiting and staging. even with the hood open. heat soak. nice on the highway though

[ericrapp0507@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by aromig If you really want cooler air, better to modify or fab a cold air box for a short ram of your choice in size. I'ma beat this dead horse, CAIs in turbo cars induce a drop in intake pressure. This drop in pressure makes the turbo work harder, and hotter, offsetting any gains. So why bother? Unless, as Raider said, you really like a chance of hydrolock.

had the mazdaspeed CAI since birth may 2007 no hydrolock.
But whale penis is on it's way. bigger IS better.

Originally Posted by aromig Meth kit to complement my Corksport TMIC will likely be my next investment, now that my puppy turbo and injector seals are on order. As you mentioned, I like the idea of less volume to fill. I'll take any spool time savings I can get. That said though, if I had a genjuan or a MS6 I would probably have gone FMIC. Glad we have a good number of options for our cars.

We do now. we didn't back when. very limited when speed came out