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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() This has happened twice before over the last 8ish months, but on those occasions it only gave me 5 minutes of aggravation. So what do you think the deal is? Thanks for the help
__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() wet maf? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() My shit does this too. So you can turn the key all the way and the power goes on, but there's no activity of the engine even trying to start. I usually put the key in, wait abit, then crank it and it works fine. Sometimes it takes a few tries
__________________ 07 MS3 Built motor with K1 rods/wesico pistons, ATP 3076r, SS Mani, ATP DP, Cobb FMIC V2, CPE FP, TurboSmart MBC, TurboSmart Dual Port BOV, Hotchkis RSB FSB, BC Coilovers, AP, Dashhawk, Trilogy JBR 88 duro's, JBR catch can, Guardian Angel Perm ![]() |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Scribbles For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-08-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I think it is just NJ.... did u get gas too? Im in NJ for work and my work truck runs like shit on nj gas (from multiple stations)... never wants to start, runs like shit and stalls out (its an automatic). BUT ON THE PLUS SIDE IM FLYING HOME TODAY AND GET TO DRIVE MY BABY ONCE AGAIN!!!!!
__________________ CS LED kit, Aux input, Sure TIP, Sure SRI v2, Sure RMM, Turbosmart BPV, IVT22's, Prosport Boost gauge, JBarone SSP v2 and counterweight, H&R Drop Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Cobb AP, Sure M6, Sure Juggernaught, Sure Dreadnaught, Whiteline RSB, DSS axle, AT internals, Sure Charge Tubes. Currently getting DIZZY tuned! ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() crappy/dirty battery terminals... take a wire brush to the cables and battery posts.. electric grease them too
__________________ ![]() //2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Had this happen before, turned out to be a glitchy "immobilizer" bullshit mazda incorporated as anti theft device, if it doesn't even try to turn over, you do not hear any selenoid clicking and the little red key symbol goes nuts in the gauge cluster....it is the "IMOBILIZER".....glently tap the wire socket going to the ecm....other then that prepare to get raped by the stealership. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tabasco69 For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-08-2011) |
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__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() check battery terminals and also, your power clip on the starter might not be getting a connection. wiggle it |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() If this was the case why do the lights still turn on and all of the other electrical systems?
__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Could be the switch in the clutch pedal that prevents engine from starting when clutch is out. Might be worth checking out. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to cesaros For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-22-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I had this exact issue that plagued me for a few months. Stealership said it was common to have corrosion on the cable that runs up to the starter, but mine was fine. I cleaned the hell out of my terminals and put grease on them, but it didn't help either. I found that if I jiggled the cable that runs from the battery to the fuse box that I could duplicate it, so I replaced it with a length of battery cable from Advance Auto. It's a pretty big cable and didn't really look messed up when I took it out... but my car has been perfect ever since. Btw, if you try to buy this cable from the dealership it is like $130, and a 2ft length of it from Advanced was about $7.
__________________ 2012 CWP MS3: Tuned by Phate - 50/50 E85 | Cobb AP | SURE Intake, TIP | Corksport Racepipe, TMM Inserts | ITV22's | AT Intl's | ACT Sprung 6Puck & Prolite Flywheel | CP-E Stg2 RMM | JBR SSB, EGR Plate 2008 Silver MS3: Sold |
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The Following User Says Thank You to kabobulate For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-09-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I love how evey single person on this forum thinks they know everything and anything about mods and tuning... People sit here and talk all this nonsense but when a member cant even start his car, only 11 people comment and chime in!! See something wrong there , i do |
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The Following 10 Users Say NO Thank You to vincent1010 For This Un-useful Post: | ABSpeed3 (12-14-2011), Black Metal (12-16-2011), BobbleHead (12-10-2011), Boost Addict (12-09-2011), Don06speed6 (12-15-2011), Easter Bunny (12-14-2011), JmkC (12-15-2011), kabobulate (12-09-2011), Raider (12-14-2011), themytb (12-15-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() And your worthless post isnt helping either. People have been suggesting plenty of good ideas for a fix for this. You can only take so much advice at once, too much and you'll be overwhelmed, and have no idea where to start.
__________________ 2008.5 BM MS3 // Cobb AP V3// JBR 3.5" WP Full Intake // CXRacing Piping/Godspeed Core // CNT 3" Catted Downpipe // Custom 3" CBE // KMD v2.1 Fuel Pump Internals // Turbosmart Dual Port BOV // Airlift Suspension // Corksport Skid Plate // JBR 88Duro Dogbone RMM // JBR SSP // SURE AGS Knob // Denso ITV22 // STACK Boost Gauge // DDM 6k Low HID's // CP-e Towplate // 15% Tint // 18x10 Blitz Type 03 FREEKTUNE |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I wouldn't overlook the starter itself if you've tried everything else these guys mentioned. Some times the solenoids go bad. I know they've gone a long way since the 70s but still. Sometimes they can get stuck.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]()
all i did was clean the terminals and it just stopped. actually i replaced the neg cable with a $6 cable from oreileys
__________________ ![]() //2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // | ||
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() i burnt my one of my ign fuses, same problem
__________________ [07:25 PM] Pu Manchu: the second rule is "don't tell anyone" [07:25 PM] Pu Manchu: the first rule of tranny fucking is "don't do it" |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() So - this same exact thing used to happen to me all the time. There is a spade connector that goes to where the starter is right below the intake mani/in front of the oil cooler (the "Terminal S Connector" in this screenshot). This didn't get corroded, but it got coated with oil/grease just from its location. I tried cleaning it out with sandpaper, but that didn't turn out to be a reliable fix. The simple solution was to just cut off the connector and replaced it with another generic insulated spade connector. My spade connector doesn't "click" in like the stock one, but it is pressure fit on there well enough that its more reliable than the stock one. If this is your prob too, it's easy to get to from under the car with just taking the belly pan off. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() i had the corroded starter solenoid wire (power to everything but it wouldn't start with no starter relay click) and the stealership was nice enough to clean it for $100. the paper clip trick in the clutch switch worked for awhile as it eliminated enough resistance to start her.
__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() lots of good info here. I guess I will start working through all of these, starting with the easiest.
__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I had a battery with a bad cell refuse to start, try try try start. Then be fine for weeks. POS Optima. Tested, failed, swapped, all was well. |
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__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. | ||
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Hows the car man did you get it fixed? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I know I'm late to the party, but +1 for the signal/trigger/small wire to the starter, happened to me, wire brushed the terminal and put some dielectric grease on it, hasn't happened again. did you get it fixed?
__________________ BNR S3---GS 3PORT---3bar map---COBB SRI & TIP---PG/GODSPEED FMIC ---DNP MANI--- CNT catted TBE--CP-E HPFP-- DIY P&P'd intake mani---SURE TIG(mani & tb)---DIY EGR delete---DIY VCTS delete--- DIY OCC/PCV reroute(through old egr port)---CP-E S2 RMM---JBR 80 PMM---TS BPV--- SURE ANCHORS---JBR shift weight---Whiteline RSB 25%E85FREEKPERMED Last edited by themytb; 12-15-2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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The Following User Says Thank You to themytb For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-22-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() @kunfu Did it get going yet???
__________________ Nator is what it does. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to kritz For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-16-2011) |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]()
"finally 2 hours later it just magically starts like nothing ever happened." Thanks for asking though. Yeah its running fine....have i corrected the problem to make sure it will never happen again? Nope not yet.
__________________ Speed 3 2007: NATOR NY mod. SURE SRI and TIP, OBX Test Pipe, SURE RMM, KMD Internals, JBarone SSP, Koni FSD's,Solid shifter bushings, Cobb AP, Stainless brake lines, EGR delete, OCC, HIDs, IV-22's, Turbo timer. | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Some crazy hot chick is going to want your sausage right now-- and then it wont start.
__________________ BNR S3---GS 3PORT---3bar map---COBB SRI & TIP---PG/GODSPEED FMIC ---DNP MANI--- CNT catted TBE--CP-E HPFP-- DIY P&P'd intake mani---SURE TIG(mani & tb)---DIY EGR delete---DIY VCTS delete--- DIY OCC/PCV reroute(through old egr port)---CP-E S2 RMM---JBR 80 PMM---TS BPV--- SURE ANCHORS---JBR shift weight---Whiteline RSB 25%E85FREEKPERMED |
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The Following User Says Thank You to themytb For This Useful Post: | kunfu (12-22-2011) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() hahaha ^^^^^ how fucked up would that be lol |
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