CEL help

[AKmac11]

Hey guys, I have an 09 ms3 with a Cobb SF. No other mods. Car has ran fine with this mod for 3k miles. Got a CEL 5 minutes down the road on an already warm engine. Very erratic idle, loss of power, and so on. Ran it up to auto zone and had them put a scan tool on it. P0300: cylinder misfire detected P2187 lean at idle-right bank. Could this be a maf issue? Any positive input would help. Going home to put stock air box back on. Anyone have this issue? Thanks.

[aanguia1]

Cobbs Sri is known to somewhat cause a cel due to having a larger air straightener, you would need to do a maf cal with an AP. I think it also states in their website.... I could be wrong, how this helps.

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[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by aanguia1 Cobbs Sri is known to somewhat cause a cel due to having a larger air straightener, you would need to do a maf cal with an AP. I think it also states in their website.... I could be wrong, how this helps. Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

Well Apparently I'm in the very small percentile that can't run just an intake on a stock tune in my genwon. Putting the stock air box on fixed the problem. Took it around the block and the car totally corrected itself within a matter of minutes. I'm hoping it was just my fuel trims that were fucked and not a bigger problem like fuel pressure. I went WOT and all seemed fine. Just wondering why I was able to run with this thing for a while without any problems...thanks for your input.

[btstarcher]

I'm assuming that you disconnected the battery to reset the ECU before you drove with a different intake?

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher I'm assuming that you disconnected the battery to reset the ECU before you drove with a different intake?

Yeah sure did. Even tried resetting the ECU before removing the Cobb. I was very careful to let the car re learn the trims. Didn't go WOT for probably a good 100 miles. Then all of a sudden a month later I get this shit. Its all good, I will just run stock until I can save for an AP.

[aanguia1]

Originally Posted by AKmac11 Well Apparently I'm in the very small percentile that can't run just an intake on a stock tune in my genwon. Putting the stock air box on fixed the problem. Took it around the block and the car totally corrected itself within a matter of minutes. I'm hoping it was just my fuel trims that were fucked and not a bigger problem like fuel pressure. I went WOT and all seemed fine. Just wondering why I was able to run with this thing for a while without any problems...thanks for your input.

Yup, genpus are more prone to get a cel idk why but there's still a small batch of gendone owners to get it also.


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[btstarcher]

Nah, something went wrong; he said it was running fine for 3k miles. Something came loose or something.

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Nah, something went wrong; he said it was running fine for 3k miles. Something came loose or something.

I checked the intake over. The silicone was free of oil, MAF was clean and secure, and all clamps were tight.

[btstarcher]

But it was fine for 3k miles. So something must have changed. P0300 is a random misfire in undetermined cylinder, not even related to the intake. The lean at idle could be but there are a few other things it could be as well. I'm still leaning toward a leak somewhere; shit can loosen up over time. Also what about the ECU wiring harness? If the clamp is rubbing against it that can cause an issue.

It's highly unlikely that you would suddenly start running like shit and be throwing codes after running fine for that long. If it was in the first 100 miles or so, sure, but not after 3k miles.

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher But it was fine for 3k miles. So something must have changed. P0300 is a random misfire in undetermined cylinder, not even related to the intake. The lean at idle could be but there are a few other things it could be as well. I'm still leaning toward a leak somewhere; shit can loosen up over time. Also what about the ECU wiring harness? If the clamp is rubbing against it that can cause an issue. It's highly unlikely that you would suddenly start running like shit and be throwing codes after running fine for that long. If it was in the first 100 miles or so, sure, but not after 3k miles.

Well I didn't think it was gonna be intake related either. I thought I may have fouled a plug or something. But it went from running pig rich and sputtering to running just fine.

[btstarcher]

It will run rich, no doubt about that. But the sputtering probably isn't related to the fact that you had a SRI. I don't guess you have any way to monitor? Android phone? Local friend with an AP? Honestly I would try re-installing the Cobb and see what happens. Disconnect the battery, make sure the clamps are tight and that everything is seated properly and straight. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Did you oil the filter or is it a dry-flow filter?

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher It will run rich, no doubt about that. But the sputtering probably isn't related to the fact that you had a SRI. I don't guess you have any way to monitor? Android phone? Local friend with an AP? Honestly I would try re-installing the Cobb and see what happens. Disconnect the battery, make sure the clamps are tight and that everything is seated properly and straight. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Did you oil the filter or is it a dry-flow filter?

Yeah I oiled it before I put it on. I'm really thinking about just getting a dry-flow though so I don't have to worry about contamination. Matter of fact, I might just sell the Cobb and go CS Sri+tip like I wanted to in the first place. Just got a good deal on the Cobb. There's an accurate way to monitor with an android?...

[btstarcher]

I've been told that the old Cobb filters are oiled, but the new ones are dry. Check with Cobb to make sure. Did you recently clean and oil the filter?

Check out the Torque application in the market (I guess it's Play now). Also, one of the forum members has developed a set of PID's for our cars. You'll need to buy a BT OBDII single, but I got a cheap one (like $17) on eBay and it works fine. It's not great at datalogging, but it gives you a pretty good idea what's going on.

[AKmac11]

Interesting...I'll check that out. I must have one of the older versions because it's definitely an oil filter. Thanks for the help dude. Just another good excuse to buy an AP sooner than my bank account will allow me.

[btstarcher]

If it makes you feel any better, we all did it.

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher If it makes you feel any better, we all did it.

I'm gonna thread Jack my own thread here, but how are your stock gutted cats working out for you? Any issues? Decent power gains? I'm thinking that may be the best bang for buck mod ever.

[btstarcher]

LMAO! They're working fine! I actually was running with a Cobb SRI and gutted cats for awhile without any tune whatsoever; not sure how much power I was at but it was very noticeable. With a tune it was flowing nicely. There's a thread somewhere by bioevolve you should check out.

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher LMAO! They're working fine! I actually was running with a Cobb SRI and gutted cats for awhile without any tune whatsoever; not sure how much power I was at but it was very noticeable. With a tune it was flowing nicely. There's a thread somewhere by bioevolve you should check out.

I might have to think about doing that after internals and AP. Only downside I can see is if you wanna stock out, you gotta buy new dp/rp.

[btstarcher]

Why would you ever need to stock out? I mean there's no way you're still under warranty, right?

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Why would you ever need to stock out? I mean there's no way you're still under warranty, right?

LOL no definitely not under warranty. And you're right, stocking out is for pussies. But you never know, sometimes mods can depreciate the value of the car if you ever decide to resell.