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 Old 09-15-2018, 06:00 PM   #1
 
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Default Fuel Pressure Issues

Need some geniuses to help me figure out an issue with my car before I give up and sell it.

Two months ago I was having a fuel cut when I would go WOT above 4k ish. I was running a datalog while testing it and my fuel pump completely shit the bed. Voltage went to 0 and HPFP PSI also went to 0. The log is here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t#gid=12737430

After replacing the relief valve and a brand new HPFP With internals, my fuel psi now fluctuates with rpm but won't go above 1000. MY HPFP Voltage is still at 0. After taking it to 4 different shops including a Mazda dealership these are the things I have replaced, and still have 0 HPFP Voltage and car runs like shit,
-HPFP with internals
-Relief Valve
-Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
-In tank Fuel Pump
-Bought a used ECU and had Mazda program the immobilizer to let the car start
- Been through two batteries while the car has been down because of mechanics leaving my AP on and draining the battery
-I've also tested the spark plugs by unplugging one at a time while the car running and they all seem to working fine.

Currently, the car idles, but won't build boost or drive good because my fuel pressure never goes above 1000.
A guy named Justin Henry who works on speeds all day said he checked my wiring and it seemed to be good and said I was getting an error between my PCM and fuel pump, that is when I replaced my ECU.
Any ideas on any tests I can do would be much appreciated.
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 Old 09-15-2018, 10:09 PM   #2
 
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Default

Posting old logs is great and all, and we can see the failure, but posting a current log would be more helpful so we can actually see what it's doing now. There are a few things I can see in your post that don't make sense...

1. I have left my AP on in my car for like 2 weeks. I HIGHLY doubt that's going to drain your battery very quickly.
2. I see no mention of fuses or relays being checked.

Power to the in tank pump/regulator flows like this:
Battery+ => 25A Fuel Pump Fuse => Fuel Pump Relay (CIRCUIT) ==> Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor => Fuel Pump Speed Control Relay (FUEL PUMP) ==> In Tank Pump

To test the resistor ballast, disconnect the battery - terminal and remove the ballast from the car. Check for continuity with multimeter by touching test leads to the resistor pins. According to the manual, resistance should be .304-.336 ohms at 68 deg F. Now, I can tell you from personal experience that literally any one I have ever tested has been between 1.2-1.6 ohms, so I think the manual is wrong or the meter I use just sucks at measuring resistances that low. Either way, if you're in the ballpark, you're fine.

To test relays, the relays are the 2 blue relays next to each other in the fuse box. On the relays, there are 4 pins. With the short sides of the rectangle being top and bottom, there 2 are vertical brass pins next to each other at the top and 2 horizontal copper pins on top of each other at the bottom like this:

| | <--Brass Pins
__
__ <--Copper Pins

The brass pins are the leads you want to test with a multimeter. Touch positive and negative leads from the multimeter to those pins (doesn't matter which) and they should read around 70-80 ohms. Next, just take wires from the battery + terminal to the left pin and battery - terminal to the right pin. It should click. If it doesn't you've found your problem.

Fuses, I'm pretty sure you don't need instruction for. If you do, please sell the car lol

Last edited by Solarsurge; 09-16-2018 at 12:19 AM. Reason: I'm retarded at times.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 06:38 AM   #3
 
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Default

I'm not sure a WOT log is a good idea right now. If rail pressure is only 1000 psi, it is not safe to do a full log. The above suggestion regarding resistor ballast and relay function is a wise one. Do that and see if it passes those tests.

As to the new pump, did it come with upgraded internals or did you install them yourself? If you did the install you might want to retrace your steps just in case. You must do the assembly under super clean conditions to avoid contamination. Be sure to carefully inspect the o-ring. Be sure you didn't damage it when installing the piston assembly, and be sure it is well-lubed with engine oil when you reassemble the pump.
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