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 Old 05-11-2015, 07:30 AM   #1
 
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Default Full Coolant Hose Replacement

Morning MSF,

At sebring last week I had a small coolant hose rupture on a cooldown lap. Luckily I didnt lose that much fluid (only about 1/2 a liter) and was able to get a fan on the engine almost immediately to let it cool down.

That said, I couldnt identify WHICH hose was the one with the leak. Once It cooled off and I filled back up, the car drives around without losing any coolant.

Therefore I've decided to replace all the coolant hoses just to make sure this isnt a problem at road atlanta later this summer....

Here's the list I have so far, please let me know if I need all of these.

Also, I just flushed the coolant fully about 2 months ago, so I don't think I need to flush and refill, just refill with more Zerex Asian Vehicle Formula.

L33X15186B - Lower Hose
L33X15381C - Reservoir Hose
L33X15383A - Upper Hose
L3K91554YB - Coolant Hose
L33615170 - Thermostat and gasket kit
L33X15185A - Inlet Hose
L3K915260A - Bypass Hose - is this metal or rubber? I cant tell in the IPC is it needed?
L33X15190 - Water Pipe - is this metal or rubber? I cant tell in the IPC is it needed?
L3K915536 - Connector Hose
L3M613680 - Water Hose

There's lots of ambiguous labeling here, and not a lot of material descriptions (metal, rubber, silicone etc). But I want to smack this problem ASAP. Coolant is one of the few failures that can really screw up my day at the track, so I want to go nuclear by replacing "everything" that is a non-metal hose in the system to ensure this doesnt happen again.

Please let me know.

Also, to replace all of these I'm assuming I need to remove the intake, battery and intercooler to get around the back of the engine, drain coolant and have lots of zerex long life ready for a fill later.

Thanks,
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 Old 05-11-2015, 08:49 AM   #2
 
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Diagram with the above mentioned parts highlighted:

15186 - L33X15186B - Lower Hose
15381A - L33X15381C - Reservoir Hose
15383 - L33X15383A - Upper Hose
15546 - L3K91554YB - Coolant Hose
1517X - L33615170 - Thermostat and gasket kit
15185 - L33X15185A - Inlet Hose
15261 - L3K915260A - Bypass Hose - is this metal or rubber? I cant tell in the IPC is it needed?
15190 - L33X15190 - Water Pipe - is this metal or rubber? I cant tell in the IPC is it needed?
15536A - L3K915536 - Connector Hose
13681A - L3M613680 - Water Hose

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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:19 AM   #3
 
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Thanks Frothy,

That's the IPC Diagram I used to find out what I needed to replace.

Are all those hoses you highlighted actually rubber? I'm worried about 15261 & 15190. If they are metal i'm not sure I need to replace them.

Also, are there any other parts I need to consider replacing at the same time besides hoses and thermostats? For Ex? does the cap need to be replaced?
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:21 AM   #4
 
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L3K915260A - Bypass Hose:



It's most definitely rubber.

Looks like you'll be removing your intake manifold...
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:22 AM   #5
 
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Jesus... How often do people on this site replace these hoses? what a PITA.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:30 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Slash621 View Post
Jesus... How often do people on this site replace these hoses? what a PITA.
I have never replaced any of them at 100K miles
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:31 AM   #7
 
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I'm just worried I'll blow another one at the track under some significant pressure / heat.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:33 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Slash621 View Post
I'm just worried I'll blow another one at the track under some significant pressure / heat.
I understand the worry, but thats going to cost you an arm and a leg probably. Plus, you dont even know its a hose that is leaking at this point right?
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:38 AM   #9
 
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Well, I need to tear it down at the moment. I have it narrows to items in the area of the thermostat. I wasnt about to tear it down at the track, so I ran home at 50mph, windows down with the rad cap off and was able to get it back only losing about 1 cup of fluid.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:42 AM   #10
 
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I attached an uncompressed engine pic... If you click on the picture you can zoom in and see if you can find that second hose. It's kind of a rat's nest...

Yes, I believe all of the highlighted part #s are rubber.

I've never replaced any of my coolant hoses ('07 MS3).

If you haven't already, check the hoses by the fans. The line that runs above the fan is notorious for working its way free from the clips and incurring damage from the fan blades.

Relevant link: How-to save your coolant line!
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:49 AM   #11
 
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Another thing to consider is changing the hose clamps. I'm not convinced that some of the stock spring loaded clamps are good for holding significant pressure and can lose strength after being put on and removed a few times.

Tbolt clamps may be overkill, but i think they are better and cause less damage to the hose than worm drive clamps.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:56 AM   #12
 
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I've replaced one hose that was cut by the rad fan...fell out of its clip and into the fan. It's now zip tied in place. Other than that no problems, and that includes a day with over 100 miles on the dragon, some time at VIR and a couple time trial races. Over 100k on the car and engine.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 09:58 AM   #13
 
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ok after some investigation. I dont have a cut on the upper radiator hose near the fan. This split is somewhere around the thermostat in the back of the rats nest.

I think after seeing those pictures. I'm going to take this to my trusty local mechanic... I can see myself getting kinda frustrated trying to do all of these myself, maybe I just have them locate and replace the affected hose.
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 Old 05-11-2015, 10:13 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Slash621 View Post
Jesus... How often do people on this site replace these hoses? what a PITA.
Not as much as we replace turbos!
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 Old 05-11-2015, 12:44 PM   #15
 
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I've just replaced alot of mine with silicone, If your interested I can sign and post the OEM's 90K, and it has over heated a few times

also, there are kits for the entire engine online. search " mazda radiator hose kit silicone "

I'm at work so ebay is blocked or I'd toss you a link

tstat area has a housing gasket , 19mm line running to the oil cooler and a rad hose going to the T pipe.

I had a bad radiator from napa that would imtermittently leak like a seive, drip a bit, or hold tight. it had a bad tank to core joint
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 Old 05-12-2015, 05:43 PM   #16
 
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261 is rubber and covered with a mesh sleeve, runs from tstat to egr housing
190 is the steel heater pipe, runs from heater to oil cooler
Originally Posted by Slash621 View Post
Thanks Frothy,

That's the IPC Diagram I used to find out what I needed to replace.

Are all those hoses you highlighted actually rubber? I'm worried about 15261 & 15190. If they are metal i'm not sure I need to replace them.

Also, are there any other parts I need to consider replacing at the same time besides hoses and thermostats? For Ex? does the cap need to be replaced?
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 Old 05-12-2015, 07:02 PM   #17
 
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I would recommend you purchase a cooling system pressure tester (harbor freight has a decent kit) to find the leak, very easy to do and will save you time hunting around or replacing a bunch of good parts.
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 Old 05-13-2015, 07:30 AM   #18
 
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Thats a good idea most of the time, but the OP, and I, have/had intermittent leaks, and a static, cold test, without the tstat and WP involved may well be useless
Originally Posted by skylinekin View Post
I would recommend you purchase a cooling system pressure tester (harbor freight has a decent kit) to find the leak, very easy to do and will save you time hunting around or replacing a bunch of good parts.
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 Old 05-13-2015, 09:34 AM   #19
 
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So, I decided to just take it in...

Mechanic found that some on track rubber chunk had hit the heater hose and cracked it. So just a general "track failure" rather than a real failure of the hose itself.

So there we go!
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 Old 05-13-2015, 12:05 PM   #20
 
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like a tear off in the rear brake duct.........
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