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  • 1 Post By 2010mps
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 Old 11-19-2018, 04:10 PM   #1
 
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Default Installing a sub

Can you plug and play a sub into a 2010 speed3 with the wires that are already there for the stock sub?


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 Old 11-26-2018, 08:05 PM   #2
 
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updates on this?
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 Old 12-30-2018, 07:46 PM   #3
 
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Someone was selli g a wire harness on FB mazdaspeed forum for this recently
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 Old 12-31-2018, 06:41 PM   #4
 
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Any amp with a high pass input will allow you to splice into factory speaker wiring. Then set LPF to 70-100 depending on preference. Not the best solution, but relatively easy with factory wiring.
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 Old 01-01-2019, 05:46 AM   #5
 
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My .02 on this subject just for the hell of it.

The oem sub is dvc. I think there dual 1 ohm. So the amp puts power out at .5 ohm load. Anything above that and the power output drops. Any 1 ohm dvc sub that you find will have such a high power rateing that the power out from the amp into this sub will be like throwing a cup of water into a well. At that point just get a self powered sub and use the amp output as a signal input.
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 Old 02-07-2019, 07:14 AM   #6
 
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Easiest way is the splice into the rear speaker wires just as others have suggested. Just make sure your amp has a low pass filter. You will have to run a power wire from the battery and a ground wire to the nearest ground by the amp.
While one this topic does anyone have an elegant solution to positioning a remote sub level control somewhere around the dash?

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 Old 02-07-2019, 08:41 AM   #7
 
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You definitely need an amp + a sub, i personally prefer to have an amp that is more powerfull than the sub or at least equal to keep better control of it. I did put a 10inch on the side using some of the jack holder space in my 2007 ms3. My FG amp did not had high level input so i just added a LOC adapter to make it work. It isn't as best as an RCA signal from an aftermarket unit but it isn't that bad for a sub.
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 Old 02-07-2019, 09:03 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
My .02 on this subject just for the hell of it.

The oem sub is dvc. I think there dual 1 ohm. So the amp puts power out at .5 ohm load. Anything above that and the power output drops. Any 1 ohm dvc sub that you find will have such a high power rateing that the power out from the amp into this sub will be like throwing a cup of water into a well. At that point just get a self powered sub and use the amp output as a signal input.
I didn't pay attention to that so it mean the factory sub amp is probably based on a IC chip directly connected to the car 12v to save the voltage step up power supply usually found in an aftermarket amp.
Do you know if door speaker are the same low impedance with bose system?
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 Old 02-07-2019, 06:03 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
I didn't pay attention to that so it mean the factory sub amp is probably based on a IC chip directly connected to the car 12v to save the voltage step up power supply usually found in an aftermarket amp.
Do you know if door speaker are the same low impedance with bose system?
Yes. I posted the specs at one point but i believe they are the usual 1.5-2 ohm woofers and the cross over for the tweeters are done in the amp but dont quote me on that last part. Every channel is done with the Bose amp. Door components d pillar mids along with the sub.
The big suck with a high level in from the stock amps output is very filtered/ crappy bass . I believed i just tapped rca's on the bose amp inputs before i did my full system.
I want to say the amp is 200w so @80% efficiency thats about 20amps.

Edit: as far as the voltage stepup comment is concerned i am pretty sure there is a dc to dc converter vs coils if you were talking about the amps power stage. I dont see how looking at the sub being connected to a multi channel bose amp would make you come to that conclusion.
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 Old 02-08-2019, 02:08 PM   #10
 
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I'm an electronic tech and used to be active in car audio before...i'm still curious about everything around this even if i stopped buying audio parts to save for performance parts.....(loading the trunk with a lot of heavy subs won't help 1/4 mile times...)

So With a 12v nominal at the amplifier stage and 4ohm load, you can expect at best 22w from the best IC chip...Any aftermarket head unit claiming anything above this is peak power or bullshit because i didn't see any yet with a voltage booster.
To increase power you either need to increase voltage or decrease impedance. My point was: If bose used very low impedance woofer in the range of 0.5ohms instead of the usual 4ohms/2ohms it could have been to use a simplified amplifier device. With an added power stage after the ic, you can get 100+w at 0.5 ohms with just 12v...
You can also combine to feed a 2 ohms load under 12v and get something like a 40+w rms that would be about what we have with the bose system....

I also found that old thread about the 3
Factory Bose Specs and Diagram
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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