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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:36 AM   #1
 
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Default MAF wiring diagram

So in continuing my goal of blow through maf on stock tune I have decide to try and relocated the ait sensor to read my actual intake temps vs now my blow through temps aka boost temps. Even though i do not see much change in range of temps and or any erratic changing of temps this seems to be where most people thing the bottle neck is. I do believe this may help is solving the fuel cut issue im seeing at WOT. Just too much fuel due to the colder readings at the new maf location. So does anyone have any wiring info diagrams pics or ms paint drawings showing which wires are used for ait on the sensor so i can pull those and wire them up to my new sensor.

The sensor i intend on using is either one from a ford lighting

9C1Z-12A697-B (sensor) & 3U2Z-14S411-JZA (pigtail)

I already have a hole in the intake pipe im using where the crankcase line once attached so the plan would be to install this sensor in that spot and hard wire it in.


any questions and comments are welcome as most of this is just speculation based off advice from others on the board and my researched knowledge. also any cheaper ait solutions that will work are awesome as well

Hopefully if i do everything cleanly i could try this out and if it doesn't work just return the parts and revert back and try again LOL


AND YES IF I HAD A COBB AP I WOULD NOT HAVE TO DO ANY OF THIS BUT IM A BROKE AS AND SHIT WHY NOT SEE IF I CAN FIGURE OUT A STOCK TUNE BLOW THROUGH IF IT WORKS THEN YEY IF NOT THEN BOO ON TO THE NEXT
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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:40 AM   #2
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donate motherfucker, they're in VIP.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:42 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by ESB Jiu JItsu View Post
So in continuing my goal of blow through maf on stock tune I have decide to try and relocated the ait sensor to read my actual intake temps vs now my blow through temps aka boost temps. Even though i do not see much change in range of temps and or any erratic changing of temps this seems to be where most people thing the bottle neck is. I do believe this may help is solving the fuel cut issue im seeing at WOT. Just too much fuel due to the colder readings at the new maf location. So does anyone have any wiring info diagrams pics or ms paint drawings showing which wires are used for ait on the sensor so i can pull those and wire them up to my new sensor.

The sensor i intend on using is either one from a ford lighting

9C1Z-12A697-B (sensor) & 3U2Z-14S411-JZA (pigtail)

I already have a hole in the intake pipe im using where the crankcase line once attached so the plan would be to install this sensor in that spot and hard wire it in.


any questions and comments are welcome as most of this is just speculation based off advice from others on the board and my researched knowledge. also any cheaper ait solutions that will work are awesome as well

Hopefully if i do everything cleanly i could try this out and if it doesn't work just return the parts and revert back and try again LOL


AND YES IF I HAD A COBB AP I WOULD NOT HAVE TO DO ANY OF THIS BUT IM A BROKE AS AND SHIT WHY NOT SEE IF I CAN FIGURE OUT A STOCK TUNE BLOW THROUGH IF IT WORKS THEN YEY IF NOT THEN BOO ON TO THE NEXT
God your dumb.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:45 AM   #4
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Your fuel cut is probably from a lack of fp internals. And nothing you do with the ait sensor will change that.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:56 AM   #5
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Subbed for fail and told-you-sos
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 Old 08-22-2012, 11:34 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by zpele View Post
God your dumb.
thanks! No need to be an asshole but thats on you!
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 Old 08-22-2012, 11:46 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Sid3wayS View Post
Your fuel cut is probably from a lack of fp internals. And nothing you do with the ait sensor will change that.
internals are fine and working well as far as i can tell. staying well about 1600 in wot. The only time it wasnt is when i had boost leaks and thats not an issue anymore.

Also so your saying the air temps are not used AT ALL to determine the A/FR? thats not what i have read from others posts..... please educate me! Also i think i am really seeing load cut and i heard load can increase as AFR values increase without proper tuning and since i dont really need my AFR to change its just doing so because it thinks its seeing cooler temps now with the ait sensors new location.

Im just trying to learn here folks. I never said i think i know everything im just trying something new. i have seen similar success so why not give it a shot. If i blow its on me.... so im not sure why some people feel the need to be so rude when it comes to posting. If i fail thats a success and if i succeed thats a success as long as i learn from it either way and thats what im attempting to do. I will take it till i cannot any farther and learn learn learn. So hate on me, thats cool but im just trying. So good i cant wait for the i told you sos! but i will say i hope they come from me ! lol but probably not and thats cool too
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 Old 08-22-2012, 11:58 AM   #8
 
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You sound like a pussy. Don't waffle and trust yourself or do what we tell you to. Don't stay in between you pansy ass muffintop.

Also, I am an asshole and will continue to be one if your ideas continue to be stupid.




Also, your stupid.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:04 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by zpele View Post
You sound like a pussy. Don't waffle and trust yourself or do what we tell you to. Don't stay in between you pansy ass muffintop.

Also, I am an asshole and will continue to be one if your ideas continue to be stupid.




Also, your stupid.
Off Topic:

Awesome! Thanks! your input is EXTREMELY helpfull

Back on topic:


btw i think i really mean density of air vs temp. I think the hotwire on the maf is having a harder time adjusting to the new air density blow through then it was draw through.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:11 PM   #10
 
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Still stupid. I will now post random useless shit.

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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:16 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by zpele View Post
Still stupid. I will now post random useless shit.

thats actually awesome I love cucumbers and cucumber sandwiches. I wonder how they grew them like that and if they can go blow through on a stock tune.....hmmmmmmm ait sensor relocate maybe?
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:19 PM   #12
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How do you know what your FP is if you don't have an AP?
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:38 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 View Post
How do you know what your FP is if you don't have an AP?
DashHawk.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:41 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 08.5MS3 View Post
DashHawk.
Ah, didn't see mention of it.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 12:51 PM   #15
 
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I have an AP to monitor but it is not mine to use to tune with. Also i have dashcommand and torque to monitor on my phone on off times when i cant use the AP. So I can see that the only differences after going blow through is slight change in AFR, and in maf voltage. But i think both of those slight changes are combining to give me load cut at WOT on the stock tune. Also both of those figures are probably also causing a bit of overboost as i can tell the car is making more power and much faster (500rpms to be exact) car runs amazing just not under WOT even pegging 14 psi is good but as soon as i go WOT its just too much and hit load cut. its just obviously too much for the stock tune but if I can reduce the factors that are leading to the load cut i can back my way into it and possible run WOT on the stock tune. Honestly if you drove my car pre blow through and post you would be chasing this setup too! It runs so much better besides WOT its insane. No after fires, clean smooth idol, runs much smoother and no dips in part throttle acceleration. Really made a big difference, thats why i hate to be so close....and yet so far (without a tune).
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 Old 08-22-2012, 01:09 PM   #16
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how can you connect an AP to the car and not marry it for inspection? Doesn't work that way.

oh.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 01:35 PM   #17
 
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you can unmerry it from a car and save that tune on your computer then merry it to another car to use but then you have to unmerry it once more and merry it back to the original car and upload the tune again. So basically you have to find one of the nicest people in the world to go through all that shit so you can test and tune your car every few days lol. But he is also interesting in going blow through and he actually could once he gets a FMIC. but for now he is watching and helping me and also providing his AP!


I just read something else that i found interesting... so i remember the old school resistor trick inline with the IAT sensor to false the reading of the IAT to increase timing. Could i not technically do this but to pull timing as well? Any electric gurus out there?

this is what im talking about......

Tuning For Mileage

also i ran across this which seem to help change afr

http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspe...-question.html

any insight is appreciated learning the best i can Read...Search....Read.....Ask....Read more
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 Old 08-22-2012, 01:42 PM   #18
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Are you just monitoring or actually taking logs. I never said the ait does not affect the afr I said the ait will not affect a fuel cut caused by failing internals. If you are simply monitoring and not logging then it is very possible that you are indeed dropping below 1600 because the sample rate is not the same for logging and monotoring. Like I said in your other thread Im all for doing things diferently but make aure you know how your car is reacting precisely and dont just make assumptions because "it feels good".
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 Old 08-22-2012, 01:58 PM   #19
 
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I am logging its just the last logs i posted in my other thread directly related to the blow through setup I had a boost leak. So i am well aware of whats going on and honestly the logs do not look that different from stock just a bit higher volts, afr, and boost. Hope to have more stable logs this weekend, because she is boosting like crazy. And yeah i keep saying fuel cut but i think its load cut, which i know essentially are the same but I believe Im hitting load values too soon and then over boosting on top of it due to FMIC and blow through. But i figured if i can calm down my afr then the timing will reduce and boost will calm and load values will lower allowing me to zoom zoom and no boom boom or cut at all.

So basically im simply trying to figure out a way to lean the car out just a bit without using a tuner and i feel this will level everything out for me.
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 Old 08-23-2012, 08:30 AM   #20
 
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broke mans cobb AP?
Potentiometer Potentiometer
inline with e ait sensor to vary resistance and change afr values based on hotwire ait readings..... lol .....dreaming?
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 Old 08-23-2012, 08:46 AM   #21
 
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jesus f christ. i thought this board was for informational help and not about people throwing every fucking idea out the window before trying every possibility. You're all going to feel real fucking stupid when we get this project to work I have been there almost every step of the way with this build from the start of the blow through. Believe me when i say he's done his research, we are monitoring everything we possibly can and logging everything for comparison.

Fuel pressure isn't the problem. I really feel it's load cut as well because stock maps cut fuel at just over 2.0 load around 3k and his logs showed a load of over 2.0 with a boost leak. now that the leak is fixed wouldn't it make sense he's over loading the stock commands. he wasn't seeing load cut with the boost leak.

we're not noobs when it comes to our platform so go harass someone else and stop wasting board space with your useless shit. it really only motivates us to shut you up.
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 Old 08-23-2012, 08:55 AM   #22
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OPs posts are extremely long.
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 Old 08-23-2012, 08:56 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by weakdog85 View Post
jesus f christ. i thought this board was for informational help and not about people throwing every fucking idea out the window before trying every possibility. You're all going to feel real fucking stupid when we get this project to work I have been there almost every step of the way with this build from the start of the blow through. Believe me when i say he's done his research, we are monitoring everything we possibly can and logging everything for comparison.

Fuel pressure isn't the problem. I really feel it's load cut as well because stock maps cut fuel at just over 2.0 load around 3k and his logs showed a load of over 2.0 with a boost leak. now that the leak is fixed wouldn't it make sense he's over loading the stock commands. he wasn't seeing load cut with the boost leak.

we're not noobs when it comes to our platform so go harass someone else and stop wasting board space with your useless shit. it really only motivates us to shut you up.

hahahahahaha! just call us the broke ass builders!

Originally Posted by ricknm View Post
OPs posts are extremely long.

please read them though i have lengthy explanations but I could certainly use advice if you have the time. thank you!
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 Old 08-24-2012, 06:01 AM   #24
 
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Modding 101: Do not mod if you cant afford to do it correctly.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 06:13 AM   #25
 
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Thats rule number one? i thought it was righty tighty lefty loosy Thanks!


Just had a nice break through..... found some info on the MAF

MAF

So I have a few ideas i will be trying.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 06:21 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by zpele View Post
God your dumb.
*you're.

OP, you should have cleaned the MAF before even posting. The manual is in VIP. Donate, you will have access. I swear i have had to tell you this before, too.

Fuck this thread.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 06:21 AM   #27
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All I see is "we're trying all these ghetto ass ways to get around stock tune limitations because we're broke but we wanna make big power"

I've been in the game long enough to know that the saying "you gotta pay to play" is NO FUCKING JOKE.

If you can't afford an AP, you pretty much have no fucking business modding this car beyond an intake. This is fact. The AP addresses every single issue you're working on in one fell swoop.

You can have 2 things, and only two of the following: cheap, fast, reliable

you can be cheap and reliable, but not be fast
you can be cheap and fast but not be reliable
or you can be fast and reliable but not be cheap.

make your fucking choice.
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