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 Old 10-31-2018, 11:36 AM   #1
 
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Default Mazdaspeed 3 Starts then dies - assistance please

Hi guys,

The video below shows my problem. The car starts and idles for a little while but then dies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCPxlWgMtq8

The car sat for about 6 months in the summer but I would start it now and then.

The battery is new, there doesn't seem to be any alternator issues as I did not see a drop on my voltmeter when I tested it, I just added some Seafoam and changed all the spark plugs.

My next though is fuel maybe the fuel pump.

Any suggestions out there or thoughts to help me get her running and back on the road?
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 Old 10-31-2018, 12:57 PM   #2
 
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Strange. I was expecting it to slowly idle down and stall out, but it just shuts off as if you turned the key.

Any CEL's?
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 Old 10-31-2018, 01:53 PM   #3
 
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Nope. No lights come on at all.
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 Old 10-31-2018, 02:23 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by vincemoccio10 View Post
Hi guys,

The video below shows my problem. The car starts and idles for a little while but then dies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCPxlWgMtq8

The car sat for about 6 months in the summer but I would start it now and then.

The battery is new, there doesn't seem to be any alternator issues as I did not see a drop on my voltmeter when I tested it, I just added some Seafoam and changed all the spark plugs.

My next though is fuel maybe the fuel pump.

Any suggestions out there or thoughts to help me get her running and back on the road?
Does this happen only at idle? Can you raise rpm and keep the engine running, or does it still stall out?
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 Old 11-01-2018, 02:09 PM   #5
 
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I can start the engine in the morning (cold) and raise the RPMs up. It seems like once the car gets up to temperature it has a hard time staying on - it eventually dies. Once it is up to temp and i get it started it is harder to keep the RPMs up.

Originally Posted by MSMS3 View Post
Does this happen only at idle? Can you raise rpm and keep the engine running, or does it still stall out?
I can start the engine in the morning (cold) and raise the RPMs up. It seems like once the car gets up to temperature it has a hard time staying on - it eventually dies. Once it is up to temp and i get it started it is harder to keep the RPMs up.

Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-01-2018 at 02:09 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-01-2018, 02:13 PM   #6
 
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Have you tried checking for stored engine codes? Maybe there is something stored in the ECU that may lead to something.
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 Old 11-02-2018, 08:55 PM   #7
 
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I had a similar problem with my LS1. My MAF sensor went bad and was grounding out whenever the car reaching operating temp and switched from open to closed loop. This caused the car to shut off immediately. Took me weeks to diagnose the issue, threw ZERO codes because im guessing the conputer never had a chance to store it. Anyway....

If there are no codes and if your fuel rail pressure checks out, id check some of the components that are used to monitor in closed loop settings I.E. Maf sensor and 02 Sensors. You could try disconnecting individual components and seeing if the car idles better when warm by forcing it into limp mode.

If your having a hard time keeping the RPMS up, it could be MAF related.....Just a shot in the dark tho
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 Old 11-02-2018, 09:01 PM   #8
 
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You could check this thread out as well.....

Car idles for 25 seconds then dies.
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 Old 11-07-2018, 11:52 AM   #9
 
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Hey guys - check out the attachment. Success! the car is now running and not dieing out. I did what that other forum member did and used a jumper wire. Now I wondering if I can keep it like that?
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 Old 11-07-2018, 12:15 PM   #10
 
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Also, I did take a look at the fuel pump resistor and it looks to be fine. Should I just go ahead and replace the whole thing?
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 Old 11-07-2018, 06:47 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by vincemoccio10 View Post
Also, I did take a look at the fuel pump resistor and it looks to be fine. Should I just go ahead and replace the whole thing?
Fuel pump resistor is in series before the pump, connect both wires at its connector together and you dont need it at all.
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 Old 11-08-2018, 07:51 AM   #12
 
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Yes, SSinstaller I've read through the numerous forums you have been a a part of. Your input on all of this is very much appreciated!

Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
Fuel pump resistor is in series before the pump, connect both wires at its connector together and you dont need it at all.
Is there a good walk through for this process? I'm very new to all of this.

Thanks! Vince

Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-08-2018 at 07:51 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-08-2018, 06:47 PM   #13
 
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Remove the resistor from the car.. IIRC its one 10mm and the 2pin connector. It's mounted below the airbox on the driverside.
Cut the harness off the resistor(not the harness in the car).
Solder the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness together, and tape them up.
Plug the resistor harness back into the connector in the engine bay and you're done.
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 Old 11-12-2018, 08:05 AM   #14
 
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Thank you so much!! Life saver!
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 Old 11-12-2018, 09:31 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
Remove the resistor from the car.. IIRC its one 10mm and the 2pin connector. It's mounted below the airbox on the driverside.
Cut the harness off the resistor(not the harness in the car).
Solder the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness together, and tape them up.
Plug the resistor harness back into the connector in the engine bay and you're done.
I'm not sure where the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness are... see attachment.
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 Old 11-12-2018, 01:58 PM   #16
 
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Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor.
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 Old 11-13-2018, 08:35 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor.
SWEET! Thanks so much!
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 Old 11-14-2018, 09:07 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor.
See the image attached. I snipped the black wires then soldered them together then connected the resistor back in. Now the car is started but immediately dieing.

Did I do something wrong?
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 Old 11-14-2018, 09:17 AM   #19
 
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I'm not seeing any cut wires in that pic....
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 11-14-2018, 09:27 AM   #20
 
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Sorry, see attached.
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:11 AM   #21
 
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The two wires coming out of the gray connector....put those together.
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Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
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2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:30 AM   #22
 
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The red and green wire?

See the attachment. I just cut the one black wire and soldered it then taped it to the other black wire. It seemed odd but that is what the remember on her said to do.

Thanks for the help...
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:36 AM   #23
 
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Technically yes. Connect the red and green wires...but do it with the black wires on the other side of the connector. The black wire will just be a loop to connect the red and green. Making the black wire loop means you don't have to molest the main wire harness.

The directions were:
Remove the resistor from the car.
Cut the harness off the resistor(not the harness in the car).
Solder the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness together, and tape them up.

No where does it say to attach the connector wire back to the resistor. The resistor should be sitting on your work bench.

New instructions:
Cut the wire you mistakenly connected.
Remove resistor pack and set it aside (not in the trash...yet)
Remove resistor connector from the main harness.
The two black wires sticking out of the connector....solder them together.
Tape it up.
Note: If you want to use heatshrink, you should have put it on before soldering.
Plug the loopy connector back in to the main harness.
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:56 AM   #24
 
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To my defense SS installer says "those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones I want.

Maybe I read it wrong. Sorry. I will do as you said. Thank you so much for the help. I really do appreciate it!

Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor.

I'm sorry but what two black wires?

The two black wires sticking out of the connector....solder them together.

Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-14-2018 at 11:56 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-14-2018, 03:20 PM   #25
 
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I thought I was pretty clear in the instructions. You should have a little U of black wire attached to the grey connector when you're done.
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