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 Old 08-22-2014, 09:27 AM   #361
 
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I had a Ron Davis radiator back before I blew a couple years back, I had just got it so it was still BNIB. There was such a back log on them at the time that I was offered what I paid for it. I sold it to a guy in Va who went by Cherrysoeed. Last week over 0n 6club a guy in Cali was selling a shit load of parts and I wound up buying Wiseco pistons, Molnar rods, rear diff mount and a Ron Davis radiator (all BNIB for a really good price). Turns out it is the same radiator I had to begin with. So it has come full circle, from Atlanta to Virginia to California and now back to Atlanta. Thats a lot of miles for a radiator thats never been in a car YET.Maybe it was meant to be mine all along, who knows.

btw thats a really sweet radiator should help with cutting down temps but I think you will see the biggest improvement is in cool down times.
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 Old 08-22-2014, 05:37 PM   #362
 
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Aaaaaand here we fucking go, as usual. The tabs that support the radiator at the bottom are not spaced right. The distance between the supports (measured in the middle) of the stock radiator is 13.5", and the Davis Racing radiator has 12 7/16".

@phate; @Tomas; @silvapain; would you guys run this radiator anyway or should I have the tab locally fixed? I guess I already know the answer.

@SneakyP86; can you measure spacing on yours once you get it?
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 Old 08-22-2014, 06:15 PM   #363
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If by fixing the tab you mean grind it off and weld it in the correct location then no. I would not do that. Not that there is anything riskey involved in that, it's just that I wouldn't go through the hassle of going to a welding shop to do that. If you don't mind schlepping the thing to a welder then go for it. As it goes mine should be coming in soon since MAP gave me the tracking early in the week. What I will do, if the tabs on mine is like yours, which you can bet your cock and balls it will be, is tap that tab with 2x M8s or so, and make a bracket that bolts onto that tab. Just an "L" shaped bracket. That should work.

If you want to make things easy on you, you can also drill a hole on the shroud, and tie it to the tab with a zip tie. Not the best solution however.

Fucking douche bags. 2 months to get it ready and then they fuck it up.
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 Old 08-22-2014, 06:57 PM   #364
 
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Mine came in the mail earlier today. I measured it just now and the spacing mine is the same 12 7/16. I know it said it was made for the speed6 but I wonder if it wasnt made for 6 and it was just assumed the spacing was the same. But surely if that was the case someone would have said something by now and it would have been corrected by now. Cant tell from the pictures but with sitting on the tabs the way you have it, how does the shroud line up is it centered or is off to one side. Cause that would ultimately determine if you could just move one tab or would have to move them both. Only thing I can suggest is try to call him tomorrow and see what he has to say. He can be reached through his facebook page he has a phone number listed there.

BTW This sux cause its a beautiful radiator and Im sure it will work great once this is fixed. As far as fixing it goes I would have to move the tabs if it comes to that.
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 Old 08-22-2014, 07:17 PM   #365
 
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Is that the only mounting point thats off? Did you drop the radiator and see if every thing else lines up?
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 Old 08-22-2014, 07:52 PM   #366
 
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Everything else lines up acceptably -- I bolted the fan to the radiator, you can see the two bolts on top below -- there is some wiggle room to adjust the fans so they do not sit crooked so we are good here.



The mounting tab that fits -- the radiator is not sitting all the way on it, as you can see below, there is a little space there but it is no biggie.



From the front, you can see there are openings on each side and some air will escape through there -- you want to make sure to plug those openings!!!! The stock radiator has sponge attached on each side to fill in this space, I will probably use cardboard and gorilla tape.



Anybody knows if I need the AAT (ambient air temp) sensor that is sitting in front of the radiator? I do not have heater or a/c and I do not think the ECU uses this sensor for anything performance related? @Tomas; @Lex; @Justin@Freektune;
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 Old 08-22-2014, 09:15 PM   #367
 
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So the day is not completely wasted and because the whole front of the car is apart, I played a bit with a little side project. First, all my effort of drilling the fog lights from here is worthless because when you look on the other side of the front bumper you get this:



So even if you drill the fog light housing or put a wire mesh in there, you still have to drill out the bumper, fuck that. So I am going with this look for now:



Of course the wire will be painted black, this is just a test fit. I found what I think is a great way to keep the wire in there, I will reuse the two stock fog light mounting points highlighted in yellow here:



I will use washers under the screws when it is time for the final assembly. The blue circle marks the third stock location -- I will "use" it but from the other side, as shown here:



The fourth location marked with the red circle is a new one, I will have to drill there and use a flanged bolt and a flanged nut. This should keep the wire firmly in place.

The two pieces are already sprayed black and drying. I also made a piece for the front grill to keep shit from hitting my new radiator -- this piece looks very cool and is drying as well, more updates tomorrow.
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 Old 08-23-2014, 12:03 PM   #368
 
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Ok, here's the finished product. You can see where I had to drill through the fog light housing and the nut that is a bit visible on the outside.

For the front grill, here is my painted and meticulously designed wire mesh.



On the inside, I used several zip ties to hold it together in place:



And here is the front view:



Not sure if I should have gone with a finer wire, the openings are 1/4" and some small bugs and shit is bound to get through, we'll see.

Also, got street tires for the pig mounted and balanced (on stock rims), it is very enlightening to compare the heights of the stock setup vs the racing setup:



Edit: For the record, one fog light is a tad under 10 oz.
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 Old 08-26-2014, 07:21 PM   #369
 
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Dropped off the radiator Monday 7am at my welder's for a fix, got an email from Ron Davis Radiators at 3pm saying that "The only way to fix it is to ship it back to us." Which is fair, I just did not want to deal with the hassle of shipping the radiator back with the stock fans so they could fix it 100 percent. Did not follow up on the Ron Davis email as I was waiting to hear back from my welder first and got another follow up email today (Tuesday) at 11am with a request to call them -- I like they care about their customers.

Called and talked to Bill Williamson and told him I was having it fixed locally. He was still concerned about the misfit as they sold a total of 19 Mazdaspeed6 radiators over the last few years and no one ever complained about the wrong spacing of the tabs. I know I have an early 2006 model with the curved TMIC cold pipe and a short straight coupler -- is it possible that later 2006 and 2007 models have a revised spacing on the fans? I do not know.

Anyway, picked up my radiator today at 5pm and proceeded to finally install it, here's some pictures. To seal the sides and force the incoming air through the radiator, I used foam from an old SURE Motorsports box, reinforced it with cardboard, and secured everything with Gorilla tape. And because it is a given a simple install takes me 4 times the allotted time, the stock radiator cap does not fit. You can see in the last picture that the openings for the metal tabs are really small on the Ron Davis radiator while the stock ones are larger -- off to O'Reillys to find something that fits.... Ok, got the cap that fits.
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 Old 08-27-2014, 06:10 AM   #370
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Part number for cap that fit?
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 Old 08-27-2014, 06:19 AM   #371
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Part number for cap that fit?
Ironically, a guy at O'Reilly's said that it was a Mazdaspeed6 cap according to their system -- I will snap a picture later and I think I have the part # on the receipt.
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 Old 08-27-2014, 06:17 PM   #372
 
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The radiator cap (on the left) is a "Murray Temperature Control - Standard Radiator Cap" -- part # 7520 at O'Reilly's. I just put everything back together and am replacing the coolant which will take several cycles.

I relocated the AAT sensor under the passenger headlight and above the horn.

In the last picture, you can see the @MATT DAMOND; power steering cooler behind the mesh, we will see if extra airflow helps.
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 Old 08-28-2014, 12:18 PM   #373
 
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@phate; any idea if I can use these lug nuts on stock MS6 rims? The 949Racing nuts have a 60° conical seat, I searched the forum and the stock MS6 nuts are tapered/conical/acorn but a broader interwebz search points to acorn ≠ conical/tapered.
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 Old 08-28-2014, 12:24 PM   #374
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Ha, I was just recently looking at those. They'll work fine.
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 Old 08-28-2014, 12:31 PM   #375
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Ha, I was just recently looking at those. They'll work fine.
Fuck yeah, you will save half a pound if you are currently using steel nuts.
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 Old 08-28-2014, 12:44 PM   #376
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Aluminum lug nuts. No thank you. Steel Mutegi only for me.
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 Old 08-30-2014, 09:22 AM   #377
 
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Finally drove around for a bit to see how the new radiator works. On the stock radiator, my ECT were usually 189-190, on the Ron Davis one they were 181-183. Next weekend I will test the radiator at the track.
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 Old 09-07-2014, 07:57 PM   #378
 
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Had a great weekend at the track and got bumped up to the red (highest) group with The Drivers Edge. Here's the times from today's three sessions:

Code:
2:05.35  
2:03.98  
2:04.52  
2:02.71  
2:03.69  
2:03.24  
2:02.50  
--  
2:02.60  
2:03.32  
2:02.87  
2:04.23  
2:02.32  
2:02.81  
2:05.76  
--
2:05.14  
2:04.69  
2:04.87  
2:03.32  
2:05.01  
2:03.37
Here's a of not the fastest lap, but one of the most fun. The problem with the Flying Pig is being slow is the straight line. It was hot as balls and I was maxing out at 125 at the end of the main straight, in cooler weather I can do about 131 but it would be nice to do 135 on a regular.

Here's my ECT's from the three sessions today -- the temps look good but when I look back at my previous logs I was running lower ECT's on the stock radiator, however it was not as hot and humid as today so it is probably not a good comparison. I will have a better comparison in September or October when the temps drop a bit -- I lost my logs from last year so I cannot dig up old logs and compare now.

Some more notes and observations:

The wire mesh is working and keeping most bugs and debris from hitting the radiator.

I do need a minimum of 3 gallons of 104 gas per tank, 4-4.5 even better, otherwise I still get some consistent knock. The meth kit is still waiting to be installed, I should have the trunk floor finally welded this week, the shop did not have enough time to cut the sheet metal last week.

Removing the driver fog light did not help the power steering cooler -- I put a fresh sock on before the weekend and it was soaked in fluid after day 1 and more today. Will look into running a different fluid and report the results.

I still love the suspension and the NT-01's. Many folks complimented me on how fast the car was compared to where it had been, now I just need to fix the straight line slows.
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 Old 09-09-2014, 06:45 AM   #379
 
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I copied you and removed the drivers fog light and glued in some fine mesh (aluminum, black color for screen doors from Home Depot Racing) in anticipation for my track day at Mid-Ohio last Monday. I'm also running the MD power steering cooler and Redline ATF and didn't notice the fluid overheating or steering get sluggish but I had the same problem with PS fluid leaking out of the cap.
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 Old 09-09-2014, 06:55 AM   #380
 
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Originally Posted by Lewis7789 View Post
I copied you and removed the drivers fog light and glued in some fine mesh (aluminum, black color for screen doors from Home Depot Racing) in anticipation for my track day at Mid-Ohio last Monday. I'm also running the MD power steering cooler and Redline ATF and didn't notice the fluid overheating or steering get sluggish but I had the same problem with PS fluid leaking out of the cap.
The steering has always been fine, it is just the leak that greases the passenger side of the engine, ideally that plastic cap should be vented.

I am using Amsoil ATX at the moment, will consider switching to a different fluid in the future, from my interwebz searches the list of candidates is as follows:

Royal Purple Max EZ
Royal Purple Max ATF
Mobile 1 ATF
Redline ATF
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 Old 09-14-2014, 11:31 PM   #381
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how did the weight of that racing radiator compare to the stocker?
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 Old 09-15-2014, 05:31 AM   #382
 
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Originally Posted by fxyxdx View Post
how did the weight of that racing radiator compare to the stocker?
Between having the new radiator fixed and the old sold, I completely forgot about it.

@SneakyP86; is yours already installed?
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 Old 09-16-2014, 10:38 AM   #383
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Code Monkey do you get a MIL for thermostat stuck open with the RD rad?
I do.

I'd say the RD rad is about 4 lbs heavier than stock. It is still a very light unit.
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 Old 09-16-2014, 10:52 AM   #384
 
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@Tomas; no MIL on my side.
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 Old 09-16-2014, 07:10 PM   #385
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you guys think this will help with the hotter temps associated with a fmic
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 Old 09-16-2014, 07:40 PM   #386
 
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Originally Posted by fxyxdx View Post
you guys think this will help with the hotter temps associated with a fmic
Most likely not too much, you still need airflow which you do not have with a front mount.
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 Old 09-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #387
 
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Another track weekend, this time with a local HPDE group.

On Saturday it was a bit cool in the morning and the car was tail happy going into some turns. My second session was a check ride to the highest group and I had to counter steer many times not to lose the car. Got promoted and after lunch went with the white/instructor group. That session sucked donkey balls too, was running 2:06-2:07 laps. I seriously thought that something was wrong with the AWD system, but then it hit me that my Nittos were most likely cycled out and after talking to some more knowledgeable folks I am pretty sure they were. Skipped last session and went home to change to brand new Nittos.

Sunday morning was great, there was an instructor whose student did not show up so I grabbed him for all the sessions. We had two great sessions in the morning, than happened during session 3.... Listen to the sound at 0:12, something popped and I lost all power. I thought the engine was gone, but no, I just could not build any boost and the rpms would not go over 2,200 or so. I limped into the pits, there were no fluids leaking, the engine and the fuel pump sounded good, no smoke from the turbo, in short no visual clues. No CEL either.

I am attaching the log from that session, it is long but the pop happened in row 3235, you can see I go off throttle then a few rows later try the throttle again just to check if it was a glitch and no, no boost/power, I limp into the pits doing 30 mph, the AFR is fucked and looking at the whole session they were fucked up all the time under boost -- I am targeting 11.4 or 11.6, don't remember, and hitting nowhere near.

Limping back home I got a P2178 code (too rich at idle) + the car started misfiring if I tried to go too fast, which was like over 35 mph.

In neutral (or in gear with the cluched pressed in), the car will rev to 5,500 then the revs fall to 1,000 or so even if I keep the gas pedal to the floor and the car starts choking a bit, I let off the gas and it recovers and idles nicely. In gear, if I floor it the car will not go over 2,200 or so.

I started pulling things out, the spark plugs are all black and the primary o2 sheath is burned from contact with the DP and the wires are exposed though not burned. Would that be enough to cause that pop, no boosting, and limited revs?

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 Old 09-28-2014, 07:36 PM   #388
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Looks and sounds like you popped a sudden boost leak. You sure it isn't a coupler or something like that?
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 Old 09-28-2014, 07:48 PM   #389
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Looks and sounds like you popped a sudden boost leak. You sure it isn't a coupler or something like that?
It did sound like a popped coupler but I only have those two short ones on the TMIC, will examine them closely tomorrow, maybe there is a tear somewhere. Still, I ordered new spark plugs and a replacement o2 sensor, will put some thermal sleeve around it.

Here is another fun , just watch the first 10 seconds and hilarity ensues. I was lucky I had an instructor there. That Honda guy who passed me at 0:50 did it with no point-by, I could not see him at all.
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 Old 09-28-2014, 09:20 PM   #390
 
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For some reason I cant see ur videos
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i had my 02 sensor do the same thing and throw that code, no power loss during that issue tho
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 Old 09-29-2014, 02:34 AM   #392
 
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man id love if we had road course days like this? how expensive is it for u guys for a track weekend?

What suspension u guys running? yellow speeds?
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 Old 09-29-2014, 01:17 PM   #393
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I've had the same problem happen at the track. Car would idle fine but couldn't hold any load. Got a boost leak somewhere and the car ran rich till the plugs were all fouled up. I also got code P0335.
Not thinking about the plugs I went messing around with timing the engine and replacing the CKP sensor which did nothing. Then I cleaned the plugs and boom everything was back to normal.
Also, if you are running rich at idle and STFTs are -25 then check the ground connector on the bracket on top of the HPFP. It's the copper looking one. If that connection is bad it will fuck yo shit up.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 05:23 PM   #394
 
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Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
For some reason I cant see ur videos
The videos are public, no idea why you can't see them.

For the next few days, it is a waiting game until all the parts arrive.

Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
What suspension u guys running? yellow speeds?
Check the first page.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 07:42 PM   #395
 
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Btw, I was just poking around the engine bay and noticed that I could remove the bracket that used to house the evap hose. The ignition condenser (in yellow circle) attaches to that bracket but I guess I can just bolt the condenser anywhere as long as it is properly grounded?
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:11 PM   #396
 
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Mother of god, @phate; was right.... @jbarone; time for a 10-ply version?
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:27 PM   #397
 
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What size are those tires?
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:29 PM   #398
 
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Originally Posted by madspd6 View Post
What size are those tires?
245/45/17

And @phate; was right again, I need more rubber, 275's at the very least, ideally 315's.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:35 PM   #399
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Do you still have the stock one to hold its place? I'm still rocking the original stock ones without any issue and they have lived above my map sensors 23psi limit for a very long time, lol.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:36 PM   #400
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Do you still have the stock one to hold its place? I'm still rocking the original stock ones without any issue and they have lived above my map sensors 23psi limit for a very long time, lol.
Still have the stock one and a SURE one.
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