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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:45 PM   #401
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
245/45/17

And phate was right again, I need more rubber, 275's at the very least, ideally 315's.
It'll be flare time for those

I'm pretty positive a short 315 could work up front with just flares. The inside edges aren't a worry, because we're already pushing up against the knuckle as closely as possible. It might get to the point where you're near full lock the rear outer edge would rub the back of the wheel well. I'm not sure how much room there is behind the fender at that point before getting into the chassis. I remember thinking that about the 275/40/17's I tested out, but those cleared fine. I think something in the 24.5-25.0" diameter range would be nice
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 Old 09-29-2014, 08:55 PM   #402
 
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I will try to source a 17 x 11 rim and mount a used 315/35 on it and yes, it will be flare time for sure. I think I will need to run a +10-15 offset, this will bring the tire 5mm-15mm closer to the suspension components and the tire will stick out like 3.7" further than stock.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 09:11 PM   #403
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I just went through all of the crazy wheel sizing options trying to stuff a huge wheel under the car. If you are seriously considering a 315, a 12" wide wheel would be a much better fit and prevent the tire from being squeezed. Maybe it's not quite as important with road racing, but you lose a ton of response and sidewall rigidity doing that. Nitto doesn't provide tread width measures, but the section width is 12.48" on the 315/35/17.

So, I have 17x9.5 +38 and have ~6mm of clearance between the tire and knuckle. A tire that has a larger section width and is squeezed will sit closer, reducing clearance. A 17x11 would need to be +19 in order to sit the same distance away from the knuckle. A 17x12 would need to be +6 (LOL) in order to sit the same distance away from the knuckle.

Give and take as you think is necessary to compensate for section width and tire height - just remember the knuckle curves outward towards the tire so you lose clearance as the tire gets taller.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 12:44 AM   #404
 
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good info^^
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 Old 09-30-2014, 06:03 AM   #405
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Mother of god, @phate; was right.... @jbarone; time for a 10-ply version?
Holy shit. At least when you blow a coupler, you REALLY blow a fucking coupler. Was this a JBR boost tube?

Never seen a boost tube with a viewing flap before.

Edit: Disregard. I see the JBR logo.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 06:30 AM   #406
 
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I already converted the blown coupler to a fleshlight, so it is not a total loss.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 07:10 AM   #407
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Pics or it didn't happen.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 05:45 PM   #408
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
245/45/17

And @phate; was right again, I need more rubber, 275's at the very least, ideally 315's.
yeah that would be sick. im 245/45 18, and man it looks like a beefy amount of tire, i couldnt imagine seeing someone fit a 315 under the front of this car without doing a massive amount of cutting to the pinch weld up front. i cant turn lock to lock as it is now without rubbing.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 05:51 PM   #409
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Pics or it didn't happen.
Substitute the coupler for the glove, done.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 05:53 PM   #410
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Originally Posted by madspd6 View Post
yeah that would be sick. im 245/45 18, and man it looks like a beefy amount of tire, i couldnt imagine seeing someone fit a 315 under the front of this car without doing a massive amount of cutting to the pinch weld up front. i cant turn lock to lock as it is now without rubbing.
lol, how low is the car? 245's should fit pretty easily unless the car is too low or the offset is too low.
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 Old 09-30-2014, 09:51 PM   #411
 
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18x9 +35
Sonic coils as high up in the back as they can go. Still needed to add 1/2" of spacers to the spring cup.
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 Old 10-01-2014, 11:16 AM   #412
 
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Ya I was gunna say a funky offset will do tht^
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 Old 10-03-2014, 05:59 AM   #413
 
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That's funky? Code monkey and phate are talking about +15 and shit with an even wider rim haha.

If the aspect is shorter I'm still not sure that the pinch weld wouldn't be in the way. I bent mine back and still lock to lock there is rubbing. I'm not even low.
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 Old 10-03-2014, 06:39 AM   #414
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245/45/18 is a really tall tire, which probably explains most of it. That's 1" taller than stock. You probably aren't running as much negative camber as me and Code Monkey, and you being lower prevents you from gaining enough camber through bump to clear the fender lip (I think that's what you're talking about when you say it's rubbing).
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 Old 10-03-2014, 06:51 AM   #415
 
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Never in my life have i seen someone literally BLOW a coupler haha, thats awesome. Glad it was a simple fix man.
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 Old 10-04-2014, 06:05 PM   #416
 
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Ok, got the car running today, wrapped the o2 sensor in cooling tape and zip tied it to the turbo coolant return line so the o2 wire will now not touch the DP. Also put cooling tape on the stock turbo to TMIC silicone hose but the shit will not stick, will remove it tomorrow.

Got the CS calipers and the Racing Brake two-piece rotors working too, post here.

Also, removed the bracket that used to hold the purge valve, straightened up the condenser bracket, and bolted it to the block.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 03:02 PM   #417
 
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Oh yeah, gonna tear through the performance catalog like @Scribbles; through a tranny's ass.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 03:49 PM   #418
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Oh yeah, gonna tear through the performance catalog like @Scribbles; through a tranny's ass.
Lol you think it would be worth it to join as a non-racer if planning a motor build?
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 Old 10-06-2014, 04:27 PM   #419
 
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Originally Posted by ItsNox View Post
Lol you think it would be worth it to join as a non-racer if planning a motor build?
You do not need to be doing real wheel-to-wheel racing, auto cross and hpde qualifies.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 08:40 PM   #420
 
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19$ brake discs for miata Almost half price on GC sleeves. 1100$ for 9 Momo podium 15" wheels... Lots of stuff to love in there
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 Old 10-07-2014, 03:19 PM   #421
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Give us a call and we'll get you a new hose.

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 Old 10-07-2014, 03:26 PM   #422
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Give us a call and we'll get you a new hose.
Not to worry, my guess is that I overtightened the T-bolt clamps and over time the clamps started cutting into the silicone, which combined with the turbo and exhaust heat resulted in a busted hose. The fault is completely on my side.
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 Old 10-07-2014, 03:58 PM   #423
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Not to worry, my guess is that I overtightened the T-bolt clamps and over time the clamps started cutting into the silicone, which combined with the turbo and exhaust heat resulted in a busted hose. The fault is completely on my side.
Possibly or it could have been a defect. If you call I'd be happy to send you another.
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 Old 10-15-2014, 05:48 PM   #424
 
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It finally got down to 50* in the mornings so I took the car out for a few 3rd gear pulls.

I can't seem to hit target boost (21 psi) like I did last winter, I used to hit 21 psi at 3300-3400 rpms, now it is not until 4000 rpms, wtf? The torque curve looks like shit too, I used to hit peak tq and then it would stay almost flat until redline. I expect to be just above 300whp/wtq on this setup.

I suspect a mild boost leak somewhere, I took the TMIC off to check the boost tubes again, poked around, one bolt is missing from the CHRA on the turbo, but on closer inspection the thread is in, the head must have fallen off for some mysterious reason. Is it possible I have a leak there?
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 Old 10-15-2014, 06:40 PM   #425
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Without the bolt head you have lost the clamping pressure.
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 Old 10-15-2014, 06:46 PM   #426
 
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Yeah, but am I losing any air there or do these bolts just keep shit in place?
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 Old 10-15-2014, 07:02 PM   #427
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Don't know from the pic it looks like it's in the exhaust side?
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 Old 10-15-2014, 07:08 PM   #428
 
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Oh yeah, it is on the exhaust side, the intake side has fucking huge bolts and they look solid.
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 Old 10-15-2014, 07:15 PM   #429

 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Yeah, but am I losing any air there or do these bolts just keep shit in place?
I lost the entire bolt causing a very noticeable boost leak because the holes the bolts thread into go all the way thru the wall. Presumably without any preload you could be leaking around the threads that are left in there. I would be more worried about the threaded part that is left in there working itself into the center of the housing and messing up the turbine.

I ended up just replacing the bolts and safety wiring them in place. I can send you replacement bolts as I had to buy a whole bag, but I have not drilled the heads on them yet.
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 Old 10-15-2014, 07:20 PM   #430
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
I ended up just replacing the bolts and safety wiring them in place. I can send you replacement bolts as I had to buy a whole bag, but I have not drilled the heads on them yet.
Thanks for the offer! I emailed Bryan, let's see what he says and take it from there.
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 Old 10-22-2014, 08:23 PM   #431
 
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Got a response from Bryan: "I would not worry about it unless it is causing an exhaust leak." I do not think I have an exhaust leak, no smoke coming out of that thread, no deposits, etc. I have no idea if I this weather contributes to the slower spool and drop off in torque at higher rpms....
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 Old 10-23-2014, 05:59 AM   #432
 
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Its possible, depending on how your "controls" are set. I've seen it more than once where even just a 1-2 psi overboost in like the 3500 rpm region wont get back to my commanded WGDC until mid 4000s sometimes.

How long have you been on this tune? I remember you having the BNR for a few years now, but its possible your tune is designed for really hot conditions, and the cold is running it outside of those parameters. That wouldn't explain the drop off at the top though, just the "slow" spool. If you have a data log you can typically spot the computer trying to correct for an overboost in the VD graph.


Edit: Just scrolled back up and saw you have one, and overboost doesn't appear to be the case... idk man. If you don't have it sorted out by the time you come to install the meth kit we can poke around with it for a bit.
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 Old 10-25-2014, 05:44 PM   #433
 
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Another track weekend. Ran in the white (level 4) group, the first session was a clusterfuck with people of varying skills and I got stuck behind a slower car a few times. One guy was leaking gas, lol.

Second session went much better, got my, I think, of 2:01.221. The guy in the car in front of me (racecar with a wing) came to me after the session and complimented me and the car -- it was no contest on the main straight but I would always catch up to him through the turns and then he would pull away again like I was standing still, lol.

After the session noticed that the front passenger tire was slowly leaking air so ran to town to have new tires mounted on my second set of rims. I just recently got barely used (4 cycles on each) Toyo RR and Maxxis RC-1 tires, each in 255/40/17. Got the Toyos mounted. Got back at the track just in time for my 3rd session, holy fuck these tires griiiiip. Got at least another 2:01.xxx the last two sessions.

The tire shop could not find the leak so I left the wheel at the shop, they pressurized the tire to 40psi and we will see how much air it loses come Monday.
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 Old 10-26-2014, 11:25 AM   #434
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Pay attention to the valve stem. I had one once where the tire would hold air parked but would lose air while driving. Turned out to be a slit in the valvestem that would open up under its own weight while moving.
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 Old 10-26-2014, 05:55 PM   #435
 
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Got some more good sessions today, the car starts pushing once the tires are really hot, I need way more camber in the front, will ask for as much as the ball joints allow, I think it was about -3. May also buy a stiffer RSB, I do not think I need something stupid stiff, just a bit stiffer. Some musing about the new brake setup are here.

Edit: The rotors are cracked after one weekend, pictures here.
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 Old 10-26-2014, 06:05 PM   #436
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Every time I've added rear stiffness since the initial setup, front grip has gone up with plenty of available grip in the rear to balance it out again. I think you're running 1000/600# springs with the stock front and rear bar. So comparing to my setup (comparing weights and whatnot, also), I have a metric fuck ton more rear bias than you.

I think you might find it worthwhile to at least explore more rear bias and see how it feels. It's made significant differences with mine.



Have you checked the temperature gradient across the tread to check your alignment?
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 Old 10-26-2014, 06:12 PM   #437
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Have you checked the temperature gradient across the tread to check your alignment?
I was about to, but the last two sessions there was a red flag thrown -- no reds for 2.5 years and now two in a row -- and we were sitting on the track for like 5 minutes so shit got cold. Will check next time. Today I was rolling over the triangle/arrow marks on the tire though so definitely need more camber.

One of the rad flags was for a Corvette that blew the engine and then caught on fire. The guy was lucky as the rescue crew is stationed close to the turn it happened and they were there super fast, the car should run again at some point in the future.
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 Old 10-26-2014, 06:55 PM   #438
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The irony of you complaining about red flags caused by cars catching fire.
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 Old 11-11-2014, 10:08 AM   #439
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Possibly or it could have been a defect. If you call I'd be happy to send you another.
So we had @Code Monkey;s car taken apart this weekend and found another failure. HOWEVER, it appears the gap between this coupler off the turbo and the turbo manifold is pretty close, i cant even get my finger in the gap, so its obviously in some pretty severe conditions.

So, it was likely not a failure, just some extreme conditions.
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 Old 11-11-2014, 10:20 AM   #440
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Time for a heatshield then.
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