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 Old 12-02-2015, 05:17 PM   #961
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
$1,100 later and she is back home. I am meeting my welder tomorrow or Friday to discuss fixing the intercooler hotside.

Meanwhile, I have been offered a seat on a World Racing League team, they race a '97 Miata, we are meeting this weekend to swap the lifters on the Miata and to put a racing comm on my helmet. The race is December 12-13, a 9 hour enduro on Saturday and a 7-hour enduro on Sunday.
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 Old 12-07-2015, 05:04 PM   #962
 
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Ok, so I consulted with my welder and I am going with the plan I sketched above, but instead of using silicone couples (blue in the sketch) I am going to use clamshell couplings.

Anybody know if I can weld aluminum to the BNR outlet or does it have to be steel?
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 Old 12-07-2015, 07:23 PM   #963
 
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i think the compressor housings are aluminum correct? if not u will have a fun time welding aluminum to steel
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 Old 12-07-2015, 09:23 PM   #964
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There is no such thing as a steel compressor housing.
All automotive compressor housings are cast aluminum.
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 Old 12-09-2015, 10:46 AM   #965
 
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Ugh, got a quote on the clamshell couplings -- 2 coupling assemblies, 4 coupling flanges, and extra 2 o-rings, only $913.xx shipped to TX, lol. The guy on the phone (Marc) told me he could knock off $150, still no good. So back to my welder to talk about an alternative setup.
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 Old 12-09-2015, 11:29 AM   #966
 
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Call David at Kozmic. They have these things that are almost like V-band, similar to those clam shells ... Gah, for the life of me i cant remember what they're called now, but i dont remember them being anywhere near that much. They also allow some flex and room for vibration so you're not breaking stuff.

Edit: Ahh, i remembered, a Vanjen clamp http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...Path=1022_1250
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 Old 12-09-2015, 12:07 PM   #967
 
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The problem is they do not come in 2.25", neither do Wiggins clamps, they jump from 2" to 2.5", FML. I was expecting to pay ~$200 for each assembly, so ~$400 total.
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 Old 12-09-2015, 12:14 PM   #968
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How 'bout dem apples?:

2.25" Quick Clamp Assembly
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 Old 12-09-2015, 12:21 PM   #969
 
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Saw them too, will talk to my welder about it.
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 Old 12-09-2015, 04:57 PM   #970
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What about tabs on both sides of the coupler so that you can bolt the sides together. The coupler does the sealing but the tabs and bolts hold the pipes together. It has a name but I do not know it. @Tokay444; might. He's the king of fancy clamps
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 Old 12-09-2015, 08:08 PM   #971
 
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Yes, I have seen those too. I think for the time being we may just weld the piping on the ic side, replace one silicone coupling with a weld on the turbo side, and fab brackets for the piping that goes over the engine, at the moment shit shakes way too much.
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 Old 12-10-2015, 07:40 AM   #972
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Meanwhile, I have been offered a seat on a World Racing League team, they race a '97 Miata, we are meeting this weekend to swap the lifters on the Miata and to put a racing comm on my helmet. The race is December 12-13, a 9 hour enduro on Saturday and a 7-hour enduro on Sunday.
Gratz man!

I just got back from the 25hours at thunderhill. I love endurance racing.

-Derrick
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 Old 12-10-2015, 08:20 AM   #973
 
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
Gratz man!

I just got back from the 25hours at thunderhill. I love endurance racing.

-Derrick
I actually just watched a few of those videos on youtube from like 09-13. Its pretty intense.
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 Old 12-10-2015, 10:36 AM   #974
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
I actually just watched a few of those videos on youtube from like 09-13. Its pretty intense.
It hit the fan when the rain came around 2:40am. The Mx5 cup cars were passing a majority of the field due to the new BFG rain tire. It was crazy out there.

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 Old 12-10-2015, 11:55 AM   #975
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Forget all that clam shell vagina coupling crap.
If you want OE quality couplings you get CAC Hot side Aramid ply with SS ring reinforcements. At $45 a pop they are not cheap but they will outlive you.
Like these:





HPS High Temp 2.5" ID x 6" Long 4-ply Aramid Reinforced Silicone CAC Coupler Hose Hot Side 63mm
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 Old 12-13-2015, 01:57 PM   #976
 
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Well, we did not get to race this weekend, just did an open track day Friday, details here.
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 Old 12-19-2015, 08:44 PM   #977
 
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Oh hai, remember me? Here is a graph from today,



a log excerpt,



and a of what it feels like. Time to pull the IM and looks at the Toyota seals, I am pretty sure they are shot, looks like I will be paging CorkSport on Monday.

The good news is that I finally hit a 1:59 lap at the Texas World Speedway, will upload the video tomorrow. The time from the video is 1:59.957, going by one log, I can see laptimes of

Code:
2:03.562
1:59.340
2:01.302
2:01.162
1:59.254
Also hit 144 mph on the main straight.
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File Type: png graph.png (22.3 KB, 322 views)
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 Old 12-19-2015, 11:59 PM   #978
 
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I'm no good at reading logs, but that does Not look good!
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Originally Posted by TheFlash View Post
Sorry I couldn't make it out, I ran out of makeup so I didn't leave the house.
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 Old 12-20-2015, 03:20 AM   #979
 
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Why the seals and not the internals?
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 Old 12-20-2015, 06:20 AM   #980
 
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^ Because that's what I chased previously for a couple months and in the end it turned out to be leaking seals so I am looking there first. Will post more about the symptoms tonight, maybe even start a new thread.

And here is a clip of a .
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 Old 12-20-2015, 06:49 AM   #981
 
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Originally Posted by Amnesiac View Post
Why the seals and not the internals?
Most of the time knock hits and then trails out: 3.1 - 2.7 - 2.1 - 1.9 ...

His knock was instantaneous and then stopped, corresponding with the drop in fuel pressure. Seals is probably a safe bet.
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 Old 12-20-2015, 05:04 PM   #982
 
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Went to the track today, got the hiccups in the fuel pressure in the first session, called it a day. Took off the fuel rail and the bores do not look that bad, at least compared to last time. What do you guys think? Leaking seals or not? When you pull an injector, is the seal supposed to stay at the bottom of the injector? The seals on injector 2 and 3 were loose.

In any case, the plan is to send the injectors out for cleaning. In the meantime, I will clean the intake valves again, the shit got pretty nasty since last cleaning.

I also got a small coolant leak, looks like one the turbo drain line.

Last but not least, I also scored a hardtop for my DD Miata, just have to either color match (Sunburst Yellow) or paint it black, decisions, decisions.
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 Old 12-20-2015, 07:30 PM   #983
 
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Congrats on the hardtop!

I am having trouble understanding how injector seals would cause a drop in fuel pressure. Injector seals see cylinder pressure, right? The only time they see fuel or fuel pressure is when the injectors are spraying.
From the log, it looks like the fuel pressure drops, then It goes lean, then it starts to knock. That points my pea brain toward the pump, maybe the spill valve or something?
---edit--added.
Maybe the seals between the injectors and fuel rail, but not between the injector and head.
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Originally Posted by TheFlash View Post
Sorry I couldn't make it out, I ran out of makeup so I didn't leave the house.
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 Old 12-21-2015, 04:57 AM   #984
 
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^ I was on PTP internals in 2014 when the dips started; changed to CorkSport internals among many things I tried back then, that did not cure the issue. The spill valve is good, I checked yesterday after coming home. I have no idea either how a leaking seal (if it is indeed leaking this time) can cause those random drops, but if new seals fix the issue, that's all I need.
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 Old 12-21-2015, 06:39 AM   #985
 
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Rail valve?
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 Old 12-21-2015, 07:06 AM   #986
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Rail valve?
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
The spill valve is good, I checked yesterday after coming home.
^^^^
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 Old 12-21-2015, 08:10 AM   #987
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
^^^^
Didnt realize those were the same thing haha.
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 Old 12-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #988
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
... Last but not least, I also scored a hardtop for my DD Miata, just have to either color match (Sunburst Yellow) or paint it black, decisions, decisions.
Awesomeness ... how much did you drop on the hardtop? People here in North Florida are very proud of their hardtops and charge beaucoup.
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 Old 12-21-2015, 11:13 AM   #989
 
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Originally Posted by sporkbomb View Post
Awesomeness ... how much did you drop on the hardtop? People here in North Florida are very proud of their hardtops and charge beaucoup.
It was a truck junkie special so I got it for $700, comes with a defroster and headliner.
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 Old 12-21-2015, 04:53 PM   #990
 
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@Code Monkey; saw this on Facebook and thought of you...then laughed my ass off

Miata rules

https://d37nk263jfz2p8.cloudfront.ne...ba892c3f1f.gif
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 Old 12-26-2015, 11:27 AM   #991
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
How 'bout dem apples?:

2.25" Quick Clamp Assembly
My welder liked those, but my email bounced back after 5 days and they are "not taking orders at this time" -- either moving to a new place or went out of business? Edit: Looks like they are permanently closed; judging from Yelp reviews the company was pretty shady.

Also, because the intake mani is out, I can do a couple of small things:

-- there are two holes in the IM that I JB welded a while ago -- tap and plug the holes instead -- DONE
-- shorten the crank sensor wires by about 27" and run the wire underneath the engine rather than over the top
-- shorten the alternator wires by probably about 3'
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 Old 01-03-2016, 04:03 PM   #992
 
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Finally got all the wiring shortened. Cut out almost 3' of the alternator wiring and some wiring from the e-brake and g-forces sensor. The valves are cleaned and I am just waiting for new grommets and o-rings for the injectors and fuel rail to start putting everything back together. I think it is also time I pulled the padding from the firewall, it should be 5 lbs at the very least, maybe closer to 8 lbs.
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 Old 01-17-2016, 11:32 PM   #993
 
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Have you seen these clamps?

http://www.hdiclamp.com/


Also, don't know why I didn't see it before but congrats on the enduro team offer!
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 Old 01-17-2016, 11:47 PM   #994
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I think it is also time I pulled the padding from the firewall, it should be 5 lbs at the very least, maybe closer to 8 lbs.
Dude, you're finally getting balls!
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 Old 01-20-2016, 07:08 AM   #995
 
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Are you EWG yet??? :tapping foot impatiently:
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2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
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Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
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Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
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Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 01-20-2016, 07:14 AM   #996
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Are you EWG yet??? :tapping foot impatiently:
Not yet; I do not want to run a cp-e mani and the Boost Junkyz fiasco means there is no off-the-shelf EWG mani I can run, will probably look for a custom one.

Another option, to keep things simple, is an EFR.
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 Old 01-20-2016, 07:29 AM   #997
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Not yet; I do not want to run a cp-e mani and the Boost Junkyz fiasco means there is no off-the-shelf EWG mani I can run, will probably look for a custom one.

Another option, to keep things simple, is an EFR.
Why no Cp-e? And I'm fairly sure AFI can make you what you want for a decent price, I've seen them make a couple of custom manifolds.
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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 01-20-2016, 10:08 AM   #998
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Why no Cp-e? And I'm fairly sure AFI can make you what you want for a decent price, I've seen them make a couple of custom manifolds.
I have seen the cp-e mani and good luck bolting that bitch up on the car, the turbo bolt holes are almost inaccessible. Plus, it is heavy.

Because I have the alternator in the front I bet I could run some crazy custom mani with some piping running on the passenger side.

Also, once I pull the insulation from the firewall inside the cabin, it would be pretty cool to make some sort of an access door that could be unbolted open for an easy access to turbo oil and water lines.
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 Old 01-20-2016, 10:11 AM   #999
 
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Like this but on the passenger side?

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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 01-20-2016, 10:22 AM   #1000
 
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A sidewinder setup? And I have the AFI EWG stock location Mani.. It bolts right up, atleast according to the guy I got it from. I haven't installed it yet. It's an option they have from there factory no special order needed. I have more pics if needed or requested



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Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP
Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar.
Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit
Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter.
Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna
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