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 Old 01-20-2016, 10:34 AM   #1001
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Like this but on the passenger side?
Could be, but not as far, I would not want the oil drain line to be almost horizontal.

Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
A sidewinder setup? And I have the AFI EWG stock location Mani.. It bolts right up, atleast according to the guy I got it from. I haven't installed it yet. It's an option they have from there factory no special order needed. I have more pics if needed or requested.
If you could take a picture of the inside of the EWG collector to see how the runners merge that would be great. On the Boost Junkyz mani, the runners merge too low preventing the exhaust gases from 2 cylinders from fully escaping and there was some boost creep because of that.
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 Old 01-20-2016, 10:50 AM   #1002
 
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Supposedly works well but this is all according to previous owner... I'll have my roommate take pics asap

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 Old 01-20-2016, 12:53 PM   #1003
 
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I can imagine your car with a hole in the firewall and a big ass turbo sitting in the passenger seat...and then why not pass the exhaust line in the car after that
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 Old 01-20-2016, 08:54 PM   #1004
 
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Pics as u requested sire... I thought I'd just give u em all so u can check everything out for urself. Roommate was slightly confused by this task but he figured it out with explaining.

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 Old 01-21-2016, 05:02 AM   #1005
 
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It is the very first picture, reminds me of this, through the EWG hole, you can see where the runners merge, for best results you should not see the merging point at all. If you plan to run high boost levels, that should not be a problem, but if you only want to run 20 psi or so, the EWG would most likely cause some boost creep.
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 Old 01-21-2016, 05:18 AM   #1006
 
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How can u not have a merge point? All the pipes gotta come together some how... Like the merge point should be father away from the flange?

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 Old 01-21-2016, 05:24 AM   #1007
 
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Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
How can u not have a merge point? All the pipes gotta come together some how... Like the merge point should be father away from the flange?
Ideally, the merge should occur before the EWG opening, you should not see that protruding point if you peek straight into the EWG hole. The more the runners are protruding into the opening, the more they are blocking part of the exhaust gases from escaping through the EWG.
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 Old 01-21-2016, 06:08 AM   #1008
 
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Hmmm interesting would be really really hard to do on an ms6 cuz tht would cause the turbo to be pushed down farther towards the TC and ur oil drain (as u know) would be even !more of a bitch

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 Old 01-21-2016, 06:10 AM   #1009
 
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No worries, this just means I should either go custom EWG EM, or go EFR now the oil drain line problem is almost solved.
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 Old 01-21-2016, 06:52 AM   #1010
 
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Now ur making me question my shit lol. I should be fine on e85 and highboost, but on shitty Cali 91 it might be a problem

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 Old 01-21-2016, 09:05 AM   #1011
 
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Now I'm scared I'm gunna be creeping every where lol

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Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar.
Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit
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 Old 01-21-2016, 05:07 PM   #1012
 
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Got the car back from the shop today. The mystery coolant leak was coming from the turbo coolant feed line, the one that goes from the EGR to the turbo. I have an EGR delete plate and the barb fitting on it has a diameter larger than the banjo bolt on the turbo. So I was running a ss line with the larger diameter, just clamped extra hard on the turbo side. Because everything on the car vibrates, that end worked itself a bit loose and got frayed pretty bad, hence the leak. Bill found a different barb fitting for the EGR plate, with the same diameter as the banjo bolt and I ended up with a very nice coolant line with a proper heat sheath.

Some pictures from today, including a mystery connector, for the life of me I cannot figure out where it connects, unless I overlooked it before and forgot to tape it off. The connector is next to the p/s pump and the overflow tank.

Notice the absence of the crank position sensor wire, who needs the sensor, right?

Two more things that may matter or not:

1. The shop refilled the coolant system with distilled water. I got back home, drained about 1.5 quarts and replaced it with the 50/50 Zerex coolant as we are supposed to have some 30-degree nights. I started the car to burp the coolant, after a quick warm-up I kept the revs at 3500 rpms or so, after like 2 minutes, the revs suddenly drop to zero/idle, as is the gas pedal sensor was not there, I have to let off the gas pedal completely, then the engine is good for another 2-3 minutes of revs at a steady rpm, then the revs drop again, and so. Is this normal?

2. After I was done with the coolant, I shut the car off, then checked on the fuel pressure. A couple weeks ago the pressure would start to build up, but today it started dropping immediately from 430. But I only idled the car for like 20 minutes, I do not remember if the pressure is supposed to build up only after some driving?
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 Old 01-21-2016, 07:57 PM   #1013
 
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The drop off from a steady RPM is normal.

If the engine is fully warmed up, the fuel pressure should go above 400 after shutoff. 1500 PSI plus. Its at 4-500 at idle pretty much right after you start the car, even on cold start. So yeah, NOT normal from what I know.

edit. Could plug be coolant temp sensor?
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 Old 01-21-2016, 08:11 PM   #1014
 
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As far as boost junkyz manifold I did some research and supposedly they revised their EWG manifolds so there is no creep abput 8 months ago. This was slightly confirmed from another owner I talked to who has one who said he has no creep as of now.

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 Old 01-22-2016, 04:42 AM   #1015
 
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I don't think it is the coolant temp sensor as I can monitor the ECT on the AP.

I happen to have a spare relief valve so I will swap it today before I hit the track this weekend.
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 Old 01-22-2016, 06:54 AM   #1016
 
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Passenger side end tank on the radiator has a sensor on it. The connector similar to mine. (See attached pic)

The fuel pressure drop after shut down could be multiple things. You may have issues with FP at WOT if you arent building pressure...but I'm sure you know that already.
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 Old 01-22-2016, 07:40 AM   #1017
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Some pictures from today, including a mystery connector, for the life of me I cannot figure out where it connects, unless I overlooked it before and forgot to tape it off. The connector is next to the p/s pump and the overflow tank.
Looks like it's the hood release sensor =)
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 Old 01-22-2016, 07:59 AM   #1018
 
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Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth View Post
Looks like it's the hood release sensor =)
Aaaah, that's it! I do not have the stock hood release anymore, the shop most likely overlooked that sensor and did not tape it off when they installed hood pins.
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 Old 01-23-2016, 07:49 PM   #1019
 
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Aaaargh, FML, the car still has random fuel pressure dips. Or maybe there is a connection to something else I am missing? MAF voltage maybe? Here is an excerpt from one of today's logs,



and the whole log is attached, see rows 3633-3640 for more logged parameters.

In another log, I get a drop in fuel pressure too, but the IDC shoots to 116 for some reason:



I changed injector and hard fuel line o-rings and grommets, and installed CorkSport injector seals. The HPFP sensor voltage is always zero, I just swapped the sensor, and the voltage is still zero.

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 Old 01-24-2016, 06:25 AM   #1020
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Could it be an intermittent problem with the ITFP?

Unless I'm reading the logs wrong, your g/s and MAFv stay constant, meanwhile your IDC shoots up and HPFP steadily goes down.

So if the system detects a drop in fuel feed, the injectors will stay open longer to try to maintain the target afr?
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 Old 01-24-2016, 06:31 AM   #1021
 
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IDC is calculated, it shot up to 116 because your AFRs went super rich. In the first log it looks like it happens right before you let off the throttle. Were you letting off the throttle anyways for a corner or something, or did you happen to notice and lift?

Basically i want to see if its doing it in relation to something you are doing, or if it truly is random.
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 Old 01-24-2016, 09:14 AM   #1022
 
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Zero voltage at the fuel pressure sensor sounds wrong. Did you try testing the harness to it? A simply continuity and resistance test should tell you if it's good.
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 Old 01-24-2016, 04:01 PM   #1023
 
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@Voltwings; I felt the engine cutting power and I lifted off the throttle, that was my reaction to what was already going on. The first excerpt was on the main straight, the second one on the back straight.

In any case, the swapped fuel pressure sensor "worked" as in I still get 0 volt reading, but I did 4 sessions today without a single hiccup, go figure. Someone with a speed6 confirmed a while ago in this thread that they also had 0 voltage readings, I contacted Cobb asking whether it was a software bug or my sensor but they never offered a solution, last update was they were "waiting on their testing group" and that was 2 years ago and the ticket got closed.

However, because I simply cannot have nice things, this happened during the last session today:



I heard a really loud mechanical pop coming out of a turn, but the car was still driving great, 6 turns later lost steering and brakes coming out of turn 9, spun like crazy and limped to a safety area. There was an instructor in a red Mazdaspeed Miata whom I just passed a few turns before, he told me one corner of the car was 2 feet in the air and he thought I would flip, hopefully I can get the footage from his GoPro as well.

The driver front tire went flat, I think I debeaded the tire again, the rim is all bent up and fucked, luckily I have a spare. The driver rear wheel is sticking out a bit more than usual, I think I maybe broke the axle? There is braking fluid dripping from there, I guess something ripped through the brake line. I am having the pig towed to my shop tomorrow, will post some carnage pictures then.

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 Old 01-24-2016, 04:24 PM   #1024
 
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Damn @Code Monkey; ... I'm just glad as hell you didn't flip that sumabitch! I hope you get it straightened out. Surely you are due for some good karma to head your way.
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 Old 01-25-2016, 03:59 PM   #1025
 
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Ok, the culprit was the upper nut and bolt on the upper control arm -- the nut said fuck it and aborted, the bolt followed. The freed arm made its way into the fender well and flopped around severing the brake line and the abs sensor and made cool grinding sounds.

To be replaced:

-- axle
-- trailing arm (twisted)
-- lateral arm (bent)
-- brake line
-- abs sensor

The knuckle seems to be ok, I do not think it is bent but I have to compare to the other side. Pictures of the carnage attached. Of course, the control arm looks intact and here goes my tax return.
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 Old 01-25-2016, 04:33 PM   #1026
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Crazy shit. You're pretty lucky. You may want to drop the subframe to inspect the UCA receiver. From what I remember, it's a boxed section welded onto the subframe. Pretty thin metal that may have twisted.

Sorry I don't have anything you can use. Everything I have is awaiting new bushings.
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 Old 01-25-2016, 11:28 PM   #1027
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When you say you lost brakes, do you mean completely?
That should not have happened. The brake system on the MSs are diagonally isolated circuits FD to PR and vice versa. Loosing brakes in one corner will make you lose brakes on the opposed corner but you should still be able to brake on 2 other wheels.
The only time you can lose brakes on all four corner is if there is a break in pressure between the master cylinder and the ABS valve block. At least in theory.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 04:43 AM   #1028
 
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There was some braking left, not sure how much though. When I went into the spin, I went two feet in (clutch and brake pedal in) and the brake pedal went to the floor with very little resistance.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:18 AM   #1029
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You know what.
I am actually not sure if the MS6 brakes are two separate circuits like in the MS3. I'd have to look that up.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:54 AM   #1030
 
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The 6 is two circuits, and for best results should be bled RR->LF->LR->RF. You can do the "start with the longest run & work to the shortest" method, but cross bleeding seems to produce better pedal feel in my experience with the 6.

It's written up in great detail in that tech training manual thingy, including specific examples of how the system handles EBD under certain circumstances.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 06:45 AM   #1031
 
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Thts some good info.. I thought it was always farthest from the master cylinder first then work closer when bleeding, but Ima try this next time

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 Old 01-26-2016, 07:01 AM   #1032
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Having lost a brake line in a dual circut car before I can say that it feels like you have no brakes even though half is working. There is zero pressure in the pedal.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 07:03 AM   #1033
 
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Yeah, it is not like you feel you suddenly have 50 percent of braking power left, more like 10-20 percent.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 07:39 AM   #1034
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May be you gotta pump that motherfucker.

2006Mazdaspeed6.pdf
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 Old 01-26-2016, 02:41 PM   #1035
 
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Welp, the wheel with the dirt/grass around the tire is fucked as well, I took it to a tire place, they removed the tire and placed the wheel on a balancing machine and holy fucking wobble batman, so there we go, two wheels down....
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 Old 01-26-2016, 03:52 PM   #1036
 
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In before @Code Monkey; says, "fuck this shit ... I'm only racing Miatas from now on ...".

In all seriousness though ... if only the MS6 was as cheap to track.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #1037
 
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I know it does not make any sense, but so far I have never had a single moment when I thought I would give up on the car. Not even when it caught on fire.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:27 PM   #1038
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XXR Wheels: 527 17x9.75 Habanero Rims

+flares =



?
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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:32 PM   #1039
 
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Too narrow. I need 10.5's or 11's so I can run 275's.

But yes, this is a perfect moment for a wheel upgrade.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:36 PM   #1040
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Finally time for chop and flare



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