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 Old 01-26-2016, 05:43 PM   #1041
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Finally time for chop and flare
For you, you mean? I thought you were going with 315's? If I go 17x10, I am going to stay with 255's, no chopping required. 10.5 or 11 with 275's could get interesting though.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 06:00 PM   #1042
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Ah, thought you meant you were seriously considering going bigger. 255's are fine, anything bigger will require serious fender modifications.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 06:06 PM   #1043
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Ah, thought you meant you were seriously considering going bigger. 255's are fine, anything bigger will require serious fender modifications.
I think you could fit 275's with maybe a serious pull, especially if you go 275/35/17, which is shorter than the stock tire, not sure about 275/40/17. The Maxxis RC1 is available in 275/35, but there are many more choices for 275/40 -- NT01, Proxes RR, Hanook Z214, and BFGoodrich G-Force R1.
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 Old 02-01-2016, 04:50 PM   #1044
 
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Well, since the pig is still at the shop ($870 in parts so far), here is a summary of last year's road racing sessions.

Code:
24jan2015-26jan2015 TDE
28feb2015-01mar2015 TDE
11apr2015-12apr2015 Chin
02may2015-03may2015 PDS
16may2015-17may2015 TDE
15aug2015-16aug2015 PDS
29aug2015-30aug2015 BMW		racing school
24oct2015-25oct2015 PDS		rain, event canceled
08nov2015	    TDE
14nov2015-15nov2015 Chin	lost axle nut
19dec2015-20dec2015 PDS
Looks pretty good on paper but there were many sessions that were lost to pouring rain.

The TWS is booked until June and then who knows so I am doing nine events in the first six months of this year. If the speedway closes, I will have the summer to figure out my towing set up and start doing the Houston MSR and MSR Cresson in the fall.

Code:
23jan2016-24jan2016 TDE		upper control arm bolt backed out
06feb2016-07feb2016 PDS
27feb2016-27feb2016 TDE
09apr2016-10apr2016 Chin
16apr2016-17apr2016 WRL
30apr2016-01may2016 PDS
14may2016-15may2016 TDE
11jun2016-12jun2016 PDS
25jun2016-26jun2016 Chin
The pig still needs:
-- welded intercooler piping (just hot side)
-- 17x10 rims to run 255 tires, or 17x10.5 or 17x11 to run 275 tires
-- mild splitter and huge wing (rear tires run about 20 degrees cooler than fronts)
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 Old 02-01-2016, 07:13 PM   #1045
 
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Chin registration just opened, looks like the novice group will be a brofest of BRZ's and FRS's.
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 Old 02-01-2016, 08:56 PM   #1046
 
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Damn so u vs a whole gang load of brz's tht tuff with how light they are but uve gotten tht 6 down to an amazing weight I didn't think possible

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 Old 02-01-2016, 11:04 PM   #1047
 
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Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
Damn so u vs a whole gang load of brz's tht tuff with how light they are but uve gotten tht 6 down to an amazing weight I didn't think possible

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Eh, he's in a different class. As long as they don't wreck too bad it should not affect his time on track. He'll just have a bunch of kids askin for rides to see how a real car and driver handles the track.
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Originally Posted by TheFlash View Post
Sorry I couldn't make it out, I ran out of makeup so I didn't leave the house.
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 Old 02-01-2016, 11:44 PM   #1048
 
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Had the exact same issues with Losing Fuel pressure, I took my HPFP off the car and found my Piston was sticking Slightly, I cleaned out the guide shaft that the piston slides in with Brake cleaner. then lubed it up with lots of fresh oil and just played with it for abit and that solved my issues.

didn't mean for that to sound so Sexual lmfao.

Had my 6 out on the track last year can't wait for this year
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 Old 02-02-2016, 04:26 AM   #1049
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Chin registration just opened, looks like the novice group will be a brofest of BRZ's and FRS's.
Sad to see that they have added so many chicanes to tws.
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 Old 02-03-2016, 07:19 PM   #1050
 
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Re: wider wheels, I looked around and pretty much gave up on 17x11's, here are some choices I am considering, price per wheel:

XXR 527, 17x9.75 +25mm, 21.5 lbs, $100 special or $133
Varrstoen ES330, 17x10 +22, ? lbs, $200 -- most likely too heavy, 17x9 are 22 lbs
Cosmis S5R, 17x10 +22, 26 lbs, $295 -- too heavy
Enkei RP03, 17x10 +18, 21.2 lbs, $305
Enkei RPF1, 17x10 +18, 17.25, $275 -- need to check caliper clearance
Enkei RPF1, 17x10 +38, 16.90, $275 -- need to check caliper clearance
949Racing 6UL, 17x10 +52, 18 lbs, $270 -- offset too high, no go
Forgestar F14, 17x10, custom offset (would go with +30 or so), ~18 lbs???, $345

I am currently running 17x9 +40, which 5mm closer to suspension components so assuming I can use those 5mm on wider wheels, I need 17x10 +30 or less. The only problem with lower offset is that brake calipers may not clear.

@phate; once you get your XXR's, could you please grab the 340x34 caliper template from here and let me know if the caliper clears? Thanks!
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File Type: jpg stock_vs_17x10+30_275.jpg (138.4 KB, 13 views)
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 Old 02-03-2016, 07:41 PM   #1051
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
phate once you get your XXR's, could you please grab the 340x34 caliper template from here and let me know if the caliper clears? Thanks!
Looks like they'll do just fine.





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 Old 02-05-2016, 06:03 PM   #1052
 
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Well, the car is not ready for this weekend; the seal and bearing on the TC are fucked too so the shop needs to pull the TC as well, my anus is already bleeding. I did manage to sneak in a side project though.
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 Old 02-06-2016, 06:02 AM   #1053
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I bet you could warm up a nice sandwich on that griddle you installed above the turbo
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 Old 02-06-2016, 06:37 AM   #1054
 
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The next event will be called Pirellis and Paninis
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 Old 02-09-2016, 05:09 PM   #1055
 
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Welp, shit keeps piling up, the diff is out and it is fucked as well.

The suspension is back together though.
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 Old 02-26-2016, 05:24 PM   #1056
 
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Ok, the car is back home, still need to do a bit of work to prep for tomorrow.

A new inspection sticker is on so I am street legal for another year.

Last time I had an occ for the first time ever and after each day -- four 24-minute sessions a day or so, let's say about 95 miles + driving home to the speedway and back + refueling, let's say 35 miles -- the catch can collected about 3 oz of oil. Is this normal or too much?

This weekend I have something else to test.

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 Old 02-27-2016, 10:01 AM   #1057
 
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Hey, you're famous.

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 Old 02-27-2016, 03:40 PM   #1058
 
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Switch to manual steering they said, you will feel the road they said....



Hint: watch the bolts on the steering wheel.
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 Old 02-27-2016, 03:55 PM   #1059
 
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If you're going to let a little thing like the steering wheel falling off during a race scare you I don't know what to say.

Did you notice that happening while you were racing or after you pulled off?
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 Old 02-27-2016, 04:01 PM   #1060
 
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I did not notice the bolt falling out, but at some point during the session the steering wheel got some slack in it, I was like wtf is going on? After the session I noticed the missing bolt, fortunately it was in the drivers seat after I got out, all the remaining 5 bolts were loose too, gonna loctite them for tomorrow. With a manual steering rack the feedback from the road goes through the steering column like crazy and vibrated the bolts loose.
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 Old 02-27-2016, 06:07 PM   #1061
 
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I fill up my add w1 can (its a small can) after about a week of expressway driving at 80mph probably a total of 80 miles a day

But to be fair when I drain it its a lot of water residue hardly any oil
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 Old 02-27-2016, 06:19 PM   #1062
 
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I would monitor crankcase pressure...if pressure is not excessive, I would not bother with the OCC fill up

You can easily monitor crankcase pressure by putting a push-to-connect fitting on the oil cap, and having a gauge hooed up
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 Old 02-27-2016, 06:32 PM   #1063
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3 oz is probably bot that much for the way you are pushing the car

My first car had factory manual steering, the steering column was split with a rubber donut connecting the two pieces. But it was pretty epic as far as feel. The manual brakes were also better imo.
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 Old 02-28-2016, 03:38 PM   #1064
 
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Ok, recap of the weekend.

I got the car back from the shop Friday with the rear suspension fixed and a depowered steering rack. The steering rack was depowered using the guidelines provided by Flyin' Miata which included cutting out the inner seal inside the rack. The power steering pump has a shaft and bearing, all else is gutted, all the holes are capped, and the pump has engine oil inside.

On Saturday I went out for my first session and after 3 turns I knew depowering the rack was a really really bad and stupid idea. The car was practically undriveable, I had to fight the steering wheel every single turn. I usually run pretty consistent 2:01-2:02 laps, the best lap of the day was a 2:08 (4th session). I had to point everyone by in my group, I would do 5-6 laps and end my session because my grip strength was failing at this point. I was pissed at myself and the world. Driving back home on Saturday I was 100 percent sure the power steering rack is going back in first thing Monday. I was so tired I slept almost 11 hours.

And then Sunday happened. I drove to the track, went out for my first session.... and holy shit, everything felt so good, the steering was still heavy but manageable and I actually started enjoying the car again and started passing cars. I did a 2:06 during the first session, and then started clocking pretty consistent 2:05-2:06 laps with a couple of 2:04's.

I will keep manual steering for at least another road racing weekend -- I want to get a larger steering wheel, I have a 350mm wheel now, the stock one is 370mm so I will get stock size of maybe slightly larger if I can. I need to look up the math and calculate % steering effort reduction and go from there. I think if I can reduce the steering effort by 15 percent or so I may keep manual steering for good, we'll see.
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 Old 02-28-2016, 04:16 PM   #1065

 
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I don't suppose there is a way to reduce the caster on the front wheels?
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 Old 02-28-2016, 04:29 PM   #1066
 
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I wish. Caster is not adjustable. But looking at the alignment sheet, now I see why right-hand turns were easier than left handers -- I have 3.6* caster on the right, and 4.1* caster on the left. I will be getting the car corner balanced end of March, I will plead with the guy to make caster as small as possible. Looking at my previous alignments, I see caster as low as 3.2* but that was at relatively low camber, once the car got lowered a bit and I went with -2.5* camber or so, caster jumped to the 3.8-4.3* range. I am pretty sure running closer to 3.0 would feel great.
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 Old 02-28-2016, 05:19 PM   #1067
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Bigger steering wheel will make a big difference.


So will manning up and doing some are workouts with weights heavier than 12 oz.
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 Old 02-28-2016, 06:32 PM   #1068
 
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Well, there is goes, a 380mm Sparco R 368 steering wheel!
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 Old 02-29-2016, 09:30 AM   #1069
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i dont know if anyone would use one for road racing, but you could install a steering damper like it was a bro dozer.
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 Old 02-29-2016, 10:22 AM   #1070
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Well, I guess it is time to invest in my safety for a change.

Drove to Austin today to Winding Road Racing, these guys have all the gear you will ever need. Some pictarz.
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I wish. Caster is not adjustable. But looking at the alignment sheet, now I see why right-hand turns were easier than left handers -- I have 3.6* caster on the right, and 4.1* caster on the left. I will be getting the car corner balanced end of March, I will plead with the guy to make caster as small as possible. Looking at my previous alignments, I see caster as low as 3.2* but that was at relatively low camber, once the car got lowered a bit and I went with -2.5* camber or so, caster jumped to the 3.8-4.3* range. I am pretty sure running closer to 3.0 would feel great.
Do you have the SPC adjustable upper balljoints?
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 Old 02-29-2016, 10:28 AM   #1071
 
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Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 View Post
Do you have the SPC adjustable upper balljoints?
Yes. I just scheduled corner balancing for March 10, the guy said it may be possible to shift the front subframe a bit to get less caster. Also, my shop called to check on me and Bill said he could probably come up with something to push the shock towers forward a bit, it is possible 1/8" may be enough to get to 3* caster?
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 Old 02-29-2016, 11:36 AM   #1072

 
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It's just trig yo. I don't know how long the shocks are, but 1/8" = 3 degrees would be a shock length of 2.39", at a more reasonable 10", .125" works out to .7 degree
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 Old 02-29-2016, 12:57 PM   #1073
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Yes. I just scheduled corner balancing for March 10, the guy said it may be possible to shift the front subframe a bit to get less caster. Also, my shop called to check on me and Bill said he could probably come up with something to push the shock towers forward a bit, it is possible 1/8" may be enough to get to 3* caster?
The shocks aren't really a factor with your caster (double wishbone FTW!).

Caster is the angle at which your steering axis sits. Your steering axis is a line drawn between the bottom balljoint and the top balljoint. Adjusting the the orientation of the adjustable balljoint could allow you to remove some caster (at the expense of camber).
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 Old 02-29-2016, 02:11 PM   #1074
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Moving the shock attachment points won't do a damn thing for either caster or camber.
Your guy Bill needs to get schooled.
Moving the subframe could. But just a tiny bit. It's not like there is tons of wiggle room in the inserts of the bushings of the subframe. The bolts are pretty snug in there.
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 Old 02-29-2016, 02:21 PM   #1075
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You can rotate the SPC ball joint a bit to change caster. If they are maxed for negative camber already, you'll end up decreasing camber and caster which will probably lose grip.

A step up front that: If you can find them, grab a set of Whiteline W53398 bushings. You can dial in some negative camber with them so you can rotate the SPC ball joint to effect some caster change with slightly less loss of camber (ha).

Alternatively, you could just hot rod an upper control arm to allow the entire ball joint to slide longitudinally for caster change.
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 Old 02-29-2016, 02:29 PM   #1076
 
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I forget, was it corks port that started making the upper control arms? And did the adjustability range include not only in & out for camber but front to rear for castor?

probably not...
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 Old 02-29-2016, 03:47 PM   #1077
 
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^ The CS control arm did not have caster adjustability. Looking at the front control arm I think I could play not with the ball joint but with the two bushings to change caster?

Just got a bill from the shop for $2,400, so the little misadventure with the rear upper control arm cost me almost $4k, parts and labor, although this includes converting to manual steering as well, FML..... Edit: Add 2 destroyed wheels and one tire as well.
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 Old 02-29-2016, 03:58 PM   #1078
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
^ The CS control arm did not have caster adjustability. Looking at the front control arm I think I could play not with the ball joint but with the two bushings to change caster?
In order to effect caster change, the position of the ball joint has to move longitudinally. To do that with the bushings, you would have to cut them short and shift the entire control arm forward or backward.

If you were to 'twist' the control arm with the eccentric bushings arranged in opposite directions it would change caster, but would change the axis of rotation of the UCA and (I think) stress the mounting bolts and bushings quite a bit before you ever set it down.
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 Old 02-29-2016, 08:31 PM   #1079

 
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I forgot you fancy ms6 guys have the double wishbone.

On the miata caster is adjusted by twisting the LCA. To reduce caster the rear mount is rotated inward and/or the front it rotated outward. This moves the LCA ball joint rearward, reducing positive camber.
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 Old 03-01-2016, 08:36 AM   #1080
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I will keep manual steering for at least another road racing weekend -- I want to get a larger steering wheel, I have a 350mm wheel now, the stock one is 370mm so I will get stock size of maybe slightly larger if I can. I need to look up the math and calculate % steering effort reduction and go from there. I think if I can reduce the steering effort by 15 percent or so I may keep manual steering for good, we'll see.
Steering wheel torque difference will just be new diameter divided by old diameter.

380/350 = 1.086, or an increased effectiveness of 8.6% (reduced effort of 8.6%, if you want to look at it like that).
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