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 Old 03-01-2016, 08:51 AM   #1081
 
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^ That, combined with 3.5 caster, should be sufficient.
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 Old 03-01-2016, 12:30 PM   #1082
 
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About the manual steering rack, may I ask what changed from Saturday night to Sunday morning that made you happier with that decision?
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 Old 03-01-2016, 04:38 PM   #1083
 
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Originally Posted by Lewis7789 View Post
About the manual steering rack, may I ask what changed from Saturday night to Sunday morning that made you happier with that decision?
Not sure, I guess you just get used to it?

Changed back to street wheels today and looked over the car. Last Saturday the pig finally hit a 70k mile mark, that's 16.5k miles in the 4 years of ownership. There is always a random small bolt or fastener missing. This time it was one screw from the CS skid tray, one clip from the passenger wheel well splash shield, and some clips from the front spoiler. The front brake pads have one more weekend left and I will need new ones. The rotors have the right look to them with those little veins running through them. The temp strips show that there is plenty of thermal capacity left on the table.

Also, when my shop pulled the rear diff housing it was really greasy -- they think it was the diff oil seeping out of the vent, kinda like the power steering fluid in the engine bay. So they put a vent hose that loops upwards toward the rear, so far no leaks but I have to do a few more HPDE's to see if the vent line makes any difference.
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 Old 03-02-2016, 04:59 AM   #1084
 
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Drove the pig to work today, no complaints at all about manual steering, it feels amazing, street tires are 215's though.
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 Old 03-02-2016, 06:05 AM   #1085
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Drove the pig to work today, no complaints at all about manual steering, it feels amazing, street tires are 215's though.
*ahem*
@phate; @xfeejayx;
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 Old 03-02-2016, 06:30 AM   #1086
 
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@phate; would hate it for autox, too many turns too fast, but for road racing it is a workable setup.
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 Old 03-09-2016, 04:02 PM   #1087
 
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Got the car corner balanced and aligned yesterday. Here are the weights with 220 lbs of weightlifting plates in the driver seat and 8.2 gal of fuel in tank.

Thus,

3,426 - 220 = 3,206 with no driver

3,206 - 8.2 * 6.1 = 3,206 - 50 = 3,156 with no driver and no fuel

When I got on the alignment rack, the cross weight was 51.5%. We took a nut off of one end link and the bolt was stuck meaning there was pre-load on the RSB! After we removed the bolt and released the tension the cross weight went to 50.1%! Lesson learned.

The alignment is as follows:

Front:
camber -2.4 -2.4
caster 4.3 4.0
toe in 0.02 0.02

The toe in is in degrees, it is about 1/128".

Rear:
camber -2.9 -2.9
toe in 0.08 0.10

The toe in is in degrees, it is about 1/32" and 3/64".

There is some noise coming from the rear of the car, it is quite audible when I keep a steady speed, and usually starts at 55 mph and gets a bit louder as I go faster. Not sure if this is the used diff I just got, a wheel bearing, or something else. Will be taking the pig back to the shop next week for diagnosis. I already did one weekend of road racing and drove to Houston and back with that noise so it is not something critical yet, but I do want to get it fixed.
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 Old 03-10-2016, 04:12 PM   #1088
 
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Forgot to add, the shop said the front subframe was already maxed out to the rear, @phate; do you think I could take the subframe off and elongate the holes on both sides maybe 1/8" so I can position the subframe just a bit more towards the rear? Or will shit happen if I do it?
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 Old 03-10-2016, 04:25 PM   #1089
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Forgot to add, the shop said the front subframe was already maxed out to the rear, @phate; do you think I could take the subframe off and elongate the holes on both sides maybe 1/8" so I can position the subframe just a bit more towards the rear? Or will shit happen if I do it?
I'll take a look tomorrow. We're pulling the whole front end apart.
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 Old 03-10-2016, 04:57 PM   #1090
 
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Front end's are always fun






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 Old 03-11-2016, 04:13 PM   #1091
 
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They say distance makes the heart grow fonder. They must not have had a mazdaspeed. Enjoy the car.
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 Old 03-11-2016, 04:18 PM   #1092
 
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A female in my thread?!?!!? That's a new one.
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 Old 03-14-2016, 04:11 PM   #1093
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Holy shit brah.
Never saw a transmission being dropped at the beach before.
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 Old 03-14-2016, 04:14 PM   #1094
 
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I has a well ventilated garage.....


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 Old 04-08-2016, 06:48 PM   #1095
 
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Welp, the rotational noise coming from the rear was a busted wheel bearing. I had prophylactically hubs and bearings replaced on both sides. And of course needed another alignment after that, that's like a 3rd alignment in 4 weeks.

Finally had the time to wash the car and got a 380mm steering wheel installed, with the Allen bolts loctite'd. Hitting the TWS this weekend.
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 Old 04-08-2016, 11:23 PM   #1096
 
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Please try to stay on the track this time.


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 Old 04-09-2016, 03:00 AM   #1097
 
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Im pretty sure you could always shift the upper control arm bushings in a press and get the castor down, Or you could get subframe bushings made with an offset.

I'd love me a set of Solid aluminum bushings for my front subframe.
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 Old 04-10-2016, 08:25 PM   #1098
 
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Had a decent Saturday road racing at the TWS, the best session I was running consistent 2:03's and 2:04's with the best lap being 2.02.056 and I was slowed down a tad by another car going uphill from turn 7 and then had to lift on the main straight to let another car pass so it should easily be a mid or maybe a low 2.01 lap.



I was experimenting with higher tire pressures, targeting around 38 psi hot instead of the usual 35-36 psi. This worked well until the last session when I started turning a bit more aggressively and ended up with 40 psi hot in the front and corded the front passenger tire which is the most loaded tire running CCW.

The tire temps after each session were as follows:

Code:
out mid ins  |  ins mid out
---------------------------
151 159	164     160 160 165
119 121 141     140 133 140
---------------------------
160 161 163     160 165 179
130 136 143     148 143 149
---------------------------
160 170 170     171 177 180
130 137 153     161 155 150
---------------------------
173 180 183     182 182 191
140 147 156     169 166 163
I guess Maxxis RC1's do not like that much heat. The front passenger tire needs more negative camber, probably as much as 0.5 more so I will need to do yet another alignment before the next weekend and will run -2.8 camber FR. Will also run a bit of toe out in front to ease the turn in with the manual steering.

For Sunday, I only had beat up tires left as replacements, ran them for one session and 3 tires started slowly cording on the outside so that was it for Sunday. I got a fresh set of NT01's for next weekend. I stayed at the track and caught some decent rides, in an E46 M3, a C7 Z06 (again), and finally a Viper. The Viper engine sounds like it was made in hell, such a cool fucking sound and the acceleration is pretty wicked, but I would still pick a Vette over a Viper.

As to running less caster, someone at the track suggested adding washers on top of the rear bushings of the subframe, such that the rear of the subframe would drop down a tiny bit relative to the front, @phate; @Tomas; do you think this may work?
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 Old 04-10-2016, 09:48 PM   #1099
 
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Nice lap. Looked pretty clean.

Bit unrelated but I'm curious: when you're not tracking your MS6 or Miata do you do any sim racing at all?
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 Old 04-11-2016, 04:42 AM   #1100
 
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Originally Posted by hermz View Post
Bit unrelated but I'm curious: when you're not tracking your MS6 or Miata do you do any sim racing at all?
No sim racing, just real driving whenever I can get on the track.
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 Old 04-11-2016, 05:36 AM   #1101
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post

As to running less caster, someone at the track suggested adding washers on top of the rear bushings of the subframe, such that the rear of the subframe would drop down a tiny bit relative to the front, @phate; @Tomas; do you think this may work?
That will not work.
All you will do with that is raise the chassis relative to the rear subframe. Not lower the subframe relative to the chassis. The relation between the rear and front subframe would stay the same. Think of it as components stacked on top of each other. First comes the subframe and then the chassis or unibody on top. If you put a layer in between you will only increase the layers of the cake.
Going back to your quest for more castor oil, the best solution IMO would be to use the CS upper control arms and modify them so the ball joint attachment point is adjustable on the front-to-back axis. There are several ways you can skin that cat.
Or you can can have custom UCAs made if you are dead set on it. It's not a very complex part to fabricate.
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 Old 04-11-2016, 06:29 AM   #1102
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I guess Maxxis RC1's do not like that much heat. The front passenger tire needs more negative camber, probably as much as 0.5 more so I will need to do yet another alignment before the next weekend and will run -2.8 camber FR. Will also run a bit of toe out in front to ease the turn in with the manual steering.
Have the SPC balljoint pressed out and clock them about 30 degrees offset so that when you slide the ball joint toward the inside of the car to gain more negative camber, the balljoint simultaneously slides toward the front of the car to decrease caster (less positive caster if that is really what you want)

Obviously both sides of the car should be the same.
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 Old 04-11-2016, 07:05 AM   #1103
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Have you shifted the subframe rearward as far as possible, already?

Here are the front subframe bushings. It looks like there's quite a bit of room to shift things around, already. In all of the pictures, front to back (car wise) is top to bottom in the picture.









The two insert holes at the front of the subframe are round and could be elongated. The two rear insert holes are already elongated, but 90° to what you are looking for. You can probably twist those to get what you're looking for.

If I were going to all this trouble (I will be, soon enough), I would have solid bushings made with elongated holes similar to the stock rear bushing inserts. At some point I'll pick up another subframe to do this.
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 Old 04-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #1104
 
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Yeah, the subframe is already all the way towards the rear.
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 Old 04-11-2016, 08:05 PM   #1105
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
That will not work.
Just to make sure we are on the same page, we are talking about the front and rear of the front subframe, right? Not about the front subframe as a whole, and the rear subframe as a whole? The idea with the washers is that they would be placed on top of the rear bushings of the front subframe, angling the front subframe toward the rear of the car, the washer placement as illustrated here:



I just got a copy of "How to make your car handle" and can see caster as the angle between the lower and upper ball joints, so I get it if the above does not work....
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 Old 04-11-2016, 10:50 PM   #1106
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Ok. I can see how adding washers where you marked the yellow circles could decrease positive caster a bit by sort of moving the lower ball joint location a tad closer to the front. I'd be surprised if using a 1/8" washer you'd see a 0.1 degree change that way however.

Doing that will also affect your steering axis inclination and scrub radius which will affect bump steer. And the car will also sit a tad higher. Not by much. But its something to consider.

Thinking about this further there could also be some sort of anti-lift type effect (or the opposite of it- whatever the fuck that's called maybe contra anti lift?) since the horizontal plane angle between the front and rear LCA attachment points on the subframe will change. I think @Niiitend1; (fuck that name I am looking at you Nintendo) can go into that with a better perspective.
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 Old 04-12-2016, 09:56 AM   #1107
 
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Moving the rear of the front subframe down like that would actually reduce the amount of anti-dive/lift in the geometry, if I'm not mistaken (though not by much, unless you're planning to put really big spacers in there - as you're also going to be lowering the inside pickup point for the forward front LCA since the front "pivot" for the front subrame is so far forward relative to both).
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 Old 04-12-2016, 10:12 AM   #1108
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
I think @Niiitend1; (fuck that name I am looking at you Nintendo) can go into that with a better perspective.
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 Old 04-12-2016, 11:35 AM   #1109
 
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Lol, I just got a new computer at work, all machines are named after small towns, and mine happens to be named "rotan" after Rotan, TX. The IT person had no idea about Nator/Rotan connection.

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 Old 04-12-2016, 11:48 AM   #1110
 
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Ah a fellow Linux user. Been a while since I've met one in the wild.

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 Old 04-12-2016, 07:06 PM   #1111
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Lol, I just got a new computer at work, all machines are named after small towns, and mine happens to be named "rotan" after Rotan, TX. The IT person had no idea about Nator/Rotan connection.

Lol. That definitely is a small town. I have a friend from there.
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 Old 04-14-2016, 08:30 PM   #1112
 
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I have been looking into the upper control arm issue and, despite different part numbers, it looks like the UCA from a regular Mazda6 should fit a speed6, for example, the following UCA sold on Amazon fits a regular 6 and a speed6, or so it says:

UCAUCA

If so, there was a TSB for a Mazda6 addressing alignment issues and there are revised front UCA's that give you 0.4 less caster -- part # GPYA-34-250 for the driver side and part # GPYB-34-200 for the passenger side. Could that work?

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 Old 04-14-2016, 08:51 PM   #1113
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The components are the same shape between the regular and speed 6. UCA's should be fine.
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 Old 04-14-2016, 09:20 PM   #1114
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
The components are the same shape between the regular and speed 6. UCA's should be fine.
I also see that Whiteline has an LCA bushing that adds 0.5 degrees of caster -- is it possible to install this bushing backwards so it decreases the caster by 0.5 degrees?
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 Old 04-15-2016, 06:28 AM   #1115
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Yes, it's just a steel center bushing with an offset hole. You would turn it so the LCA is as far rearward as possible. I didn't have the eccentric bushing down there, but the standard WL LCA bushing (identical shell and poly AFAIK) held up much better than the rest of them. As much track time as your car sees, I wouldn't be surprised to see them wear out more quickly than mine did.
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 Old 04-22-2016, 02:07 PM   #1116
 
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Just got a genpu idler that replaces the p/s pump, any idea as to why the seller would shave off the stamped part number? This is what mine looks like compared to a random interwebs picture.
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File Type: jpg idler.jpg (214.2 KB, 26 views)
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 Old 04-22-2016, 02:08 PM   #1117
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Just got a genpu idler that replaces the p/s pump, any idea as to why the seller would shave off the stamped part number? This is what mine looks like compared to a random interwebs picture.
Did you buy from a chop shop? Lol
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 Old 04-22-2016, 02:08 PM   #1118
 
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The casting looks way cleaner too. Perhaps the seller was planning to paint or powder coat it or something?
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 Old 04-22-2016, 02:16 PM   #1119
 
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Bought through ebay from parts-for-imports, 98.9 percent positive feedback, 7544 reviews.
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 Old 04-22-2016, 02:24 PM   #1120
 
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Just looks like it's prepped for paint/pc/polishing

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