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 Old 10-04-2016, 12:52 PM   #1241
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Stock width tires on the left, 245 Nitto NT01's on the right, 275 G-Force R1S's in the middle.
Not to circle back to an older post, but a question finally worked it's way through my brain. How much did you have to drop your tire pressures with the wider tires? Or did you leave it unchanged and essentially get the gains from better cornering grip since the patch became wider?
Thinking about moving to wider rubber when I wear out my current tires and wondering if I'm looking to start with a few psi drop, 5psi, 10, etc.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 03:32 PM   #1242

 
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There is really no telling unless you are getting the exact same tire as before, just wider on a similarly wider wheel. Some tires like more, some like less, and the stretch/bulge of the tire on the wheel impacts it as well. Unless you have a skid pad handy you just gotta take your best guess and adjust using a pyrometer.

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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:37 PM   #1243
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
Unless you have a skid pad handy you just gotta take your best guess and adjust using a pyrometer.

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Funny side track i had to share. Took my fiance' to the drag strip to let her race her mustang, and she was nervous about doing a burnout. She came back into the pits and when i was talking with her she says "this (the burnout) is so stressful, i wish there was somewhere you could go to like... practice it." Just kinda had to give her the blank stare face.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 08:09 PM   #1244
 
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Originally Posted by ChaunceyM View Post
How much did you have to drop your tire pressures with the wider tires?
I do not go off of tire pressure, I use tire temps to dial in the car. I need to go back to my notes to see what tire pressures I ended up with but IIRC they were a little higher than what I was running before.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 07:25 AM   #1245
 
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I'm starting to wonder how that all plays together. Obviously tires have a temp range where the rubber compounds work best. But conversly, as the tire pressures go up, the contact patch with the track goes down. So it seems like it's a constant battle b/t temps and pressures to maximize grip. And even when I put wider tires on the car, unless I dial down the pressures my contact patch stays the same since the car's weight didn't change.
I'm sure this is nothing new to guys with more experience, but as I work my way up the ladder I'm learning all these "fun" nuances. Every time I figure one thing out I realize there's 3 more that I didn't even know I should be figuring out.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 07:30 AM   #1246
 
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Originally Posted by ChaunceyM View Post
I'm starting to wonder how that all plays together. Obviously tires have a temp range where the rubber compounds work best. But conversly, as the tire pressures go up, the contact patch with the track goes down. So it seems like it's a constant battle b/t temps and pressures to maximize grip. And even when I put wider tires on the car, unless I dial down the pressures my contact patch stays the same since the car's weight didn't change.
I'm sure this is nothing new to guys with more experience, but as I work my way up the ladder I'm learning all these "fun" nuances. Every time I figure one thing out I realize there's 3 more that I didn't even know I should be figuring out.
This is assuming 0 camber. If your car is rolling over onto the shoulder of the tire, then more pressure can actually increase your contact patch by adding sidewall stability.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 08:08 AM   #1247
 
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Originally Posted by ChaunceyM View Post
But conversly, as the tire pressures go up, the contact patch with the track goes down [...]
This is why you take tire temps. I do not even look at tire pressures, I only add or remove air as needed and the resulting tire pressures are a by-product of tire temps and how I feel the car is doing. For fastest laps, the goal is to get close to a perfect heating pattern on each tire. I always end up with different tire pressures on each tire after a weekend of road racing.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 08:33 AM   #1248
 
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More track thoughs....

The weekend the motor blew, I had the guy who trained me to be an instructor drive the Racepig and give me feedback on the car setup. He said overall the car felt great and had only these minor suggestions:

o He felt the front of the car bouced too much when upset by curbing and recommended stiffening up the front, which I did right away. I was four clicks from full stiff, went back to one click from full stiff, and may go full stiff in the future.

o The brake pedal does not do anything the first half an inch or so of travel. This makes is impossible to heel and toe because once the brakes start working, the brake pedal is already below the gas pedal. He recommended adding some sort of spacer on top of the brake pedal. I will not be doing it now as I am going to have the firewall reinforced when we pull the engine hopefully this week and will see if this helps with the braking feel.

o He would go back to power steering as with power steering it is easier to drive the car through a corner, making small corrections mid corner. With manual steering you have to hit each corner perfectly, which I think is not a bad thing. But to drive the car closer to its limit, you need power steering. He admitted in the end it is a matter of preference though. I will be putting power steering back at some point, not sure how soon however.

o "Extra 100 hp would not hurt" As I said before I think a consistent 350-370 whp on this car would be a sweet spot.

Last weekend I was instructing and since I had no car to drive I was catching rides with other instructors. It was not until I got a ride in a K-swapped Miata when I realized that my Racepig was at least that much fun, if not more, to drive. I realized that the Racepig is getting a rebuilt engine no matter what and that she was only but halfway through her journey as a race car, the best is yet to come.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 08:43 AM   #1249
 
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The white miata behind where you were parked? I knew that engine didn't look right but i couldn't figure out why. I really wanted to go check it out, but we had to leave -_-. One of those would be sweet, 250 whp all motor on pump gas in ~2300 lbs.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 08:49 AM   #1250
 
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Yep, that Miata.
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 Old 10-05-2016, 09:36 AM   #1251
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
It was not until I got a ride in a K-swapped Miata when I realized that my Racepig was at least that much fun, if not more, to drive. I realized that the Racepig is getting a rebuilt engine no matter what and that she was only but halfway through her journey as a race car, the best is yet to come.
It's funny you say that. I've recently had a similar experience. New thread to come
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 Old 10-05-2016, 01:31 PM   #1252
 
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I would vote returning to a PS setup. It reduces the long term fatigue and allows me to be more consistent for a longer period of time.

I can't imaging how much hustling is in involved in chucking a 3200+ 4WD pig around with 275 Hoosiers must be.

I want to be able to not have my arms fall off on the way back home from the track. Something about it being a safety issue
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 Old 10-05-2016, 02:38 PM   #1253
 
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Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
I would vote returning to a PS setup. It reduces the long term fatigue and allows me to be more consistent for a longer period of time.


I want to be able to not have my arms fall off on the way back home from the track. Something about it being a safety issue
You haven't seen @code_monkey;'s arms, have you?
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 Old 10-05-2016, 05:30 PM   #1254
 
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I'm not sure I want to.....
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 Old 10-05-2016, 07:08 PM   #1255
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
This is why you take tire temps. I do not even look at tire pressures, I only add or remove air as needed and the resulting tire pressures are a by-product of tire temps and how I feel the car is doing. For fastest laps, the goal is to get close to a perfect heating pattern on each tire. I always end up with different tire pressures on each tire after a weekend of road racing.
Thanks. So things are a bit simpler than I was expecting, but involves more...finesse. I actually think I remember you posting the inner-middle-outer temps for your tires after one of your events. I'll have to dig that out and re-read. And I'll have to start being a bit more anal about getting, and recording, those temps.
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 Old 10-12-2016, 12:01 PM   #1256
 
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So i apologize for the thread jack, but apparently you cant send pics through PM (or i suck at finding it), so i'm posting my contribution to @Code Monkey;s build. Bought these 17 x 9 6 UL rims off of him when he made the jump to larger rims.

I ended up using a 5 mil spacer in the front (the 8 mil had a little poke and not enough threads on the studs) and got 7 full threads on there. I'd prefer closer to 8+ so i may end up buying some ARP studs. The rear fits with no spacer, but its very close to the strut, maybe half a finger width, so if i really load the sidewalls up it may rub. I'll probably order another 5 mil for the rear. The rear studs also seem to be shorter than the front.

The rims themselves are 9.5 lbs lighter than stock each, and even with adding more tire i ended up saving 2 lbs a corner. What's weird is picking both up you would swear it was substantially more than that.

Stock: 225 40 18 on 18 x 8
6UL: 255 40 17 on 17 x 9

Tire heights are the same between both rims, so it rides very nice, but is still super sharp and direct. That stock ride height tho...

/threadjack.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ms3 6ul.jpg (128.6 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg ms3 6ul2.jpg (41.9 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg ms3 6ul3.jpg (99.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg ms3 6ul4.jpg (71.8 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg ms3 6ul5.jpg (125.2 KB, 43 views)
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 Old 10-12-2016, 12:23 PM   #1257
 
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^ Now fix that wheel gap, lol.
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 Old 10-12-2016, 01:10 PM   #1258
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
^ Now fix that wheel gap, lol.
Fuck that. More gap is great for offroadimg.
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 Old 11-20-2016, 10:50 PM   #1259
 
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Wings and I were just talking about race car stuff and the failures of the HPFP fuel rail line last time he worked on my car and just found this so you were first person I thought of. This looks like a permanent solution to that cracking OEM hardline and with my BSD'd MS3 being daily driven I will be investing in this soon so my car doesn't burst in flames too lol. https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-hig...action=preview

here's video of it too:
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 Old 11-21-2016, 06:40 AM   #1260
 
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Or put the bsd back in?
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 Old 11-21-2016, 07:07 AM   #1261
 
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Fuck yeah, this line will be going on my build engine! Going BSD, windage tray, and oil temp and pressure gauges.
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 Old 11-26-2016, 07:27 PM   #1262
 
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Originally Posted by impossible View Post
Wings and I were just talking about race car stuff and the failures of the HPFP fuel rail line last time he worked on my car and just found this so you were first person I thought of. This looks like a permanent solution to that cracking OEM hardline and with my BSD'd MS3 being daily driven I will be investing in this soon so my car doesn't burst in flames too lol. https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-hig...action=preview

here's video of it too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLWEp40UbB0
Pros: This is freakin awesome... i may actually break down and buy one too.

Cons: Corksport makes it...


Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Fuck yeah, this line will be going on my build engine! Going BSD, windage tray, and oil temp and pressure gauges.
That's awesome, wasnt sure how quickly you were going to be progressing with your build since apparently there was a lot of money going into a kitchen or something haha.
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Last edited by Voltwings; 11-26-2016 at 07:27 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-26-2016, 08:22 PM   #1263
 
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@Code Monkey; have you had any issues with fuel starvation on the track? I was on the track last weekend in my 6 and was getting fuel cut at slightly below 1/2 tank of gas. Filled up the next session and it went away.

Unfortunately, I don't have any logs of it happening, but the instructor riding along felt like it was fuel starvation.
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 Old 11-26-2016, 08:44 PM   #1264
 
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Originally Posted by nindoja View Post
@Code Monkey; have you had any issues with fuel starvation on the track? I was on the track last weekend and was getting fuel cut at slightly below 1/2 tank of gas. Filled up the next session and it went away.

Unfortunately, I don't have any logs of it happening, but the instructor riding along felt like it was fuel starvation.
Hard lefts? Hard rights? I dont want to step in when i know you asked someone else specifically, but i dont recall that issue in my Gen 2?
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 Old 11-26-2016, 08:54 PM   #1265
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Hard lefts? Hard rights? I dont want to step in when i know you asked someone else specifically, but i dont recall that issue in my Gen 2?
This is in my 6, which is why I asked him. I had it accelerating out of corners, both left and rights. The odd thing is it felt like a tune issue (or maybe high temp cuts), but went away when I filled the tank up.
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 Old 11-26-2016, 09:17 PM   #1266
 
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The random fuel pressure drops I reported several times in this thread were caused, I believe, by running below 1/2 tank. When I started refueling once the gas gauge dropped below 1/2 the misfires went away.
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 Old 11-26-2016, 09:32 PM   #1267
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
wasnt sure how quickly you were going to be progressing with your build since apparently there was a lot of money going into a kitchen or something haha.
Just ordered all the parts I need for a rebuild, hopefully they will all arrive this week and @KotzurRacing; can start on the engine.
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 Old 12-02-2016, 02:00 PM   #1268
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Pros: This is freakin awesome... i may actually break down and buy one too.

Cons: Corksport makes it...




That's awesome, wasnt sure how quickly you were going to be progressing with your build since apparently there was a lot of money going into a kitchen or something haha.
What!?!?! I'm buying one right now. Good think I checked this bish for updates

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 Old 12-03-2016, 05:58 PM   #1269
 
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Originally Posted by impossible View Post
Wings and I were just talking about race car stuff and the failures of the HPFP fuel rail line last time he worked on my car and just found this so you were first person I thought of. This looks like a permanent solution to that cracking OEM hardline and with my BSD'd MS3 being daily driven I will be investing in this soon so my car doesn't burst in flames too lol. https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-hig...action=preview

here's video of it too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLWEp40UbB0
Anybody see it on the site yet? I can't seem to find it.
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 Old 12-04-2016, 09:23 AM   #1270
 
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Originally Posted by Alpha View Post
Anybody see it on the site yet? I can't seem to find it.
I found a link on google but it went to a dead webpage.
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2001 Miata - Basically stock

... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong.

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 Old 12-04-2016, 09:59 AM   #1271
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
I found a link on google but it went to a dead webpage.
Same here... Oh Corksport
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 Old 12-04-2016, 01:30 PM   #1272
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Originally Posted by Alpha View Post
Same here... Oh Corksport
Call them up and ask what happened to it?

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 Old 12-04-2016, 03:07 PM   #1273
 
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Probably already had QC issues...
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... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong.

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 Old 12-05-2016, 02:47 PM   #1274
 
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I managed to order one before the site was taken down. They called and told me it wasn't out yet. Awaiting parts and additional testing before release.
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 Old 12-07-2016, 07:18 AM   #1275
 
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Dropped off my spare long block yesterday at @KotzurRacing; the build is as follows:

Wiseco pistons, 0.020 over
Eagle H-Beam rods
Stage 3 motor build kit from Edge
Clevite H Series standard rod bearings
Clevite H Series standard main bearings
ARP main studs
ARP 2000 head studs
DCR VVT actuator
Crower 65lb valve springs
BSD & windage tray

Matt will do very mild porting on the head and weld two 10 or 12 AN fittings on the valve cover which will go to a vented catch can, no more oil in my intake, turbo, and intercooler piping.

I have a spare set of cleaned injectors and also got CorkSport injector seals and will be putting power steering back in.
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 Old 12-07-2016, 07:31 AM   #1276
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Dropped off my spare long block yesterday at @KotzurRacing; the build is as follows:

Wiseco pistons, 0.020 over
Eagle H-Beam rods
Stage 3 motor build kit from Edge
Clevite H Series standard rod bearings
Clevite H Series standard main bearings
ARP main studs
ARP 2000 head studs
DCR VVT actuator
Crower 65lb valve springs
BSD & windage tray

Matt will do very mild porting on the head and weld two 10 or 12 AN fittings on the valve cover which will go to a vented catch can, no more oil in my intake, turbo, and intercooler piping.

I have a spare set of cleaned injectors and also got CorkSport injector seals and will be putting power steering back in.
You should look into WPC treatment for your frictional rotating parts. It's amazing stuff. My build had it on everything (Bearings, crank journals, pistons, etc) Very reasonable too!

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 Old 12-08-2016, 07:25 AM   #1277
 
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@Alpha;

High Pressure Fuel Line
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... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong.

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 Old 12-08-2016, 07:33 AM   #1278
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Thanks man!

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 Old 12-08-2016, 08:34 AM   #1279
 
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Why not stick with stock fasteners? It's pretty well proven you don't need main studs. And stock headstuds will hold a pretty good amount as well.
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 Old 12-12-2016, 10:53 AM   #1280
 
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Well, the Clevite H-series main bearings are discontinued, Edge is shipping the King Tri-Metal bearings instead.
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