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 Old 04-26-2014, 05:50 PM   #241
 
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Update re: my fuel pressure / misfire problem -- I still haz it.

Same story as before: The first session is great; the second session I think I have an occasional misfire, it is really subtle but the log confirms it is there, the third session I get misfires right away and there's many and I bring the car in.

I swapped the relief valve which I thought fixed the problem but it did not. I still have HPFP dipping on me under WOT again, and this time I have both a single cell blip and blocks of cells.

Graph 1 plots HPFP vs boost for boost > 3, fuel pressure is over 1600 psi, all is hunky dory.

Graph 2 plots HPFP vs boost for boost > 3, you can see some dips in fuel pressure.

Graph 3 plots HPFP vs boost for boost > 3, there are more dips, wtf.

I am attaching the log from the 3rd session, and here is a sample extract for those who do not want to look through the longish log:

Code:
. list app rpm mph afr boost hpfp idc load maf in 1066/1086

      +------------------------------------------------------------------+
      | app    rpm   mph     afr    boost   hpfp     idc   load      maf |
      |------------------------------------------------------------------|
1066. |  31   5665    92   11.91     6.59   1809   37.99    .85   121.24 |
1067. |  48   5752    93   11.61    15.99   1788   65.57   1.72   262.38 |
1068. |  53   5769    93   12.05    18.36   1830   68.77   1.77   270.28 |
1069. |  56   5792    93   11.91    19.29   1719   71.89   1.81   281.45 |
1070. |  61   5878    95   11.76     19.5   1701   74.53   1.82   281.45 |
      |------------------------------------------------------------------|
1071. |  61   5920    95   11.17    19.43   1796   75.53   1.81   275.32 |
1072. |  61   5948    96   11.76     19.5    966   72.96   1.81   274.32 |
1073. |  60   6005    97   10.73     19.5   1769   73.18   1.81   283.51 |
1074. |  60   6058    98   11.02    19.36   1707   73.75   1.78   281.45 |
1075. |  60   6058    99   11.61    19.43      0   72.05   1.78   280.42 |
      |------------------------------------------------------------------|
1076. |  57   6183   100   11.17    19.36   1536   73.21   1.77   291.86 |
1077. |   0   5873   100   11.32   -11.35    170       0    .44    11.76 |
1078. |   0   5411    99   11.76   -12.21    148       0    .05     6.69 |
1079. |   0   5183    99   14.26   -12.35      0       0    .01     1.71 |
1080. |   0   4783    99   16.02   -12.35   1717       0    .01      1.5 |
      |------------------------------------------------------------------|
1081. |   0   4420    99   19.55   -12.35    777       0    .02     1.89 |
1082. |  30   4144    99    19.4    -1.95   1561    5.25    .32    38.34 |
1083. |  58   4693    99   12.05     1.93    949   25.84    .99   120.69 |
1084. |  60   4786    99   12.49     7.23   1766    32.8   1.13   148.06 |
1085. |  67   4883    99   11.61    15.49   1883   48.83   1.55   211.48 |
      |------------------------------------------------------------------|
1086. |  67   4867    99   11.32    18.93   1684   57.63   1.73   232.39 |
      +------------------------------------------------------------------+
At this point I am not really sure what to do, I am beyond angry and frustrated, another track weekend paid in full and did only two sessions. I will probably swap the fuel pump and if the problem is not fixed, I will put the pig to the side and put money in the Miata and once the Miata is track ready I will go back to fixing the pig.

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 Old 04-26-2014, 06:39 PM   #242
 
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Damn man sorry to hear.
Did you do a relief valve check again just to be sure you didn't get a crap relief valve?

Other than that I would swap pumps with someone local for a track day.
Or pull the intank pump and check for crap or swap for a deatschwerks.
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 Old 04-26-2014, 08:09 PM   #243
 
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I just drove for about 15 mins and logged the fuel pressure afterwards. It built up to 1072 after about 11 mins, then started falling down slowly. I guess you need to drive for 30 mins or more for the pressure to build up even higher. In any case I think the relief valve is fine.

The ITFP is a good idea, I will probably have it replaced anyway just in case.

I am not sure if the cam position sensor can contribute to the misfires. I did not replace it after the fire, and looking at this picture, it is very close to where the hottest flame was:



Poked around the engine bay and the ceramic coating on the EM is bubbling in a couple places. Also, the brand new oil drain line, the beefy bottom part has some brownish shit on it, oxidation or some other weird chemical reaction?
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 Old 04-26-2014, 08:17 PM   #244
 
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Don't think the cam sensor would affect it.
ITFP is an easy swap.
Any locals able to swap HPFP with you?
If not I could send mine out to you while my car is down.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 11:11 AM   #245
 
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@Lakespeed6; fuck it, I just ordered CorkSport internals, thanks for the offer though.

I am also going to pull the injectors. I have a spare set that I can send off for cleaning and have flow balanced. I have no idea if my reasoning is valid but if an injector is stuck open at random times, would it cause the HPFP pressure (which is really the fuel rail pressure) to go down resulting in those weird dips?

I think the issue is mechanical at this point as I have never gotten a CEL.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 11:28 AM   #246
 
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If you have HPFP problems you wont be getting a CEL. Just a drop in pressure.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 11:38 AM   #247
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Couple of questions/suggestions

How much fuel is in the tank when this happens? It could be real fuel starvation though I doubt you would have overlooked this. The other possibilt is that the in tank pump is overheating. They are cooled by virtue of sitting in the gas so if the fuel level is too low it won't be cooled properly.

Thought two have you checked inside of your tank for large sediments that could be clogging up the in tank filter? I would change the filter if you havent already and do your best to get the inside of the tank totally clean.

Lastly though I'm not sure this applies I helped a friend with the same symptoms on a boat a few years back. It would run great for an hour or so then it would slowly lose power until we were stuck idling back to the dock. It turned out that the fuel line had a check valve to keep all of the fuel in the line from draining back into the tank everytime you shut the
Engine off. It had filled with shit that made it past the in tank filter and after enough running would get jammed mostly closed swapped that $8 valve and never had another problem. I dont know if these cars have such a valve but I hope they do and it makes it a simple fix for you.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 11:47 AM   #248
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I see 3 possible culprits:

1. ITFP. As things get hot electrical resistance increases so the ITFP might not get enough voltage or be failing
2. Failing injector. Heat buildup might cause it to seize
3. Internals failing due to wear on the HPFP.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 11:47 AM   #249
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
@Lakespeed6; fuck it, I just ordered CorkSport internals, thanks for the offer though.

I am also going to pull the injectors. I have a spare set that I can send off for cleaning and have flow balanced. I have no idea if my reasoning is valid but if an injector is stuck open at random times, would it cause the HPFP pressure (which is really the fuel rail pressure) to go down resulting in those weird dips?

I think the issue is mechanical at this point as I have never gotten a CEL.
Could possibly make sense if your dumping fuel with it stuck open.
I would expect a misfire though with that much fuel to cause pressure to drop so low.
Just installed CS internals on a local car this weekend, they come in a pretty box

I would also check your intank for sanity sake. My filter had a good amount of shit on it at 85k.
Plus its a quick easy thing to check.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 12:31 PM   #250
 
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Thanks guys.

@Easter Bunny; I had at least 3/4 of the tank left.

Plan of action:

1. I just ordered CS internals and I am getting a stock fuel pump from a forum member -- will swap them in.

2. I will replace the injectors with the spare set I have (to be cleaned first), Toyota injector washers are on their way too.

3. A new ITFP is on its way as well, I will have my shop install it as I want them to cut a bigger hole in the access hole inside the cabin so we do not have to drop the gas tank.

May need a quick retune with the Freek with the CS internals as well. The next track weekend is May 17-18. If the problem is still not fixed the MS6 gets grounded for several months and a Miata track build commences.
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 Old 04-28-2014, 02:03 PM   #251
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Thanks guys.

@Easter Bunny; I had at least 3/4 of the tank left.

Plan of action:

1. I just ordered CS internals and I am getting a stock fuel pump from a forum member -- will swap them in.

2. I will replace the injectors with the spare set I have (to be cleaned first), Toyota injector washers are on their way too.

3. A new ITFP is on its way as well, I will have my shop install it as I want them to cut a bigger hole in the access hole inside the cabin so we do not have to drop the gas tank.

May need a quick retune with the Freek with the CS internals as well. The next track weekend is May 17-18. If the problem is still not fixed and MS6 gets grounded for several months and a Miata track build commences.
Sounds like a good plan!
FYI you can remove the ITFP on the 6 without cutting. Its tight but possible.
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2006 Black MS6 531HP 486TQ FREEKBUILT -- FreekTune
BW S300sx 62mm -- Twin TIAL 38mm EWG -- Perm Top Mount Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold -- Perm 4" Intake
TR1035FMIC -- JBR TB and IM thermal spacers -- JBR OCC -- Bosch 3.5 Bar MAP -- Greddy BOV-- CP-E Injector seals
Perm Downpipe -- 3" Magnaflow CBE -- Autotech Fuel Pump Internals -- Grimmspeed EBCS -- NGK Iridium
Ported Head and Intake Manifold -- Snow Performance Meth Injection D10 and D12 -- balance shaft delete -- EGR delete
ACT 6 Puck -- ISC Coilovers -- Sure Torq R6 -- Sure Juggernaught -- Sure Dreadnaught -- Sure Anchors -- Sure Shift Knob

2006 CWP MS6 313HP 319TQ FreekTune
ATP GTX3076r -- TIAL 38mm EWG -- HTP 3" Intake System -- CPE Single Exit Exhaust-- ATP Catless Down Pipe
CPE Differential Mount -- CPE Top Mount Intercooler -- JBR 80D Trilogy Mount Package -- Grimmspeed EBCS
Autotech Internals -- Bosch 3 Bar Map Sensor -- Bit Wise Plug n Play -- GFB Hybrid BOV
Bilstein Struts -- H&R Sport Lowering Springs -- Cobb v3 -- e85

1990 Nissan Skyline GTR

1991 White BMW 325ic
Scorpion catback -- Short shifter -- Bilstein HD -- HR Springs -- Intake -- NRG Wheel -- Chassis and strut tower brace -- Sway bars
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 Old 04-29-2014, 01:16 PM   #252

 
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If you are opening it up you might as well throw in a DW65 drop in fuel pump.

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 Old 04-29-2014, 02:56 PM   #253
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
If you are opening it up you might as well throw in a DW65 drop in fuel pump.
That's what I ordered.
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 Old 04-29-2014, 04:36 PM   #254
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Also check all of the grounds on the harness back there.
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 Old 05-13-2014, 06:35 AM   #255
 
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Ok, I had my shop install the DW65 and I just installed the CorkSport HPFP internals. I am holding off on the injectors for now.

I can never get the car to misfire on the street but I am taking the car to the track this weekend so we will see if the problem is fixed.

Here's 3rd and 4th gear pulls from yesterday. Is it normal for the fuel pressure on CorkSport internals to remain so high for so long after I let off the gas?

I pulled the fuel pump after the logs to make sure I installed everything correctly and everything looks good.

@CorkSport; @Lex;
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 Old 05-13-2014, 07:16 AM   #256

 
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I can't view the logs with my mobile csv viewer, but if you are engine braking the pressure shouldn't drop off till you apply the throttle. The injectors are turned off when engine braking so if the relief valve is intact and the check valve on the HPFP is working properly. The will be no outflow from the rail.

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 Old 05-13-2014, 07:41 AM   #257
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
I can't view the logs with my mobile csv viewer, but if you are engine braking the pressure shouldn't drop off till you apply the throttle. The injectors are turned off when engine braking so if the relief valve is intact and the check valve on the HPFP is working properly. The will be no outflow from the rail.
Makes perfect sense.

I do not usually engine brake just pop into neutral and coast but I just looked at my old logs from 2012 and the fuel pressure did stay high for a while after a pull so everything should be ok.
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 Old 05-17-2014, 12:48 PM   #258
 
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Went to the track today and started misfiring toward the end of the first session.

I was still able to finish the session as the misfires were bearable. For the second session, I flashed a detuned freek map which limits boost to 16 psi and I got and worst misfires ever. I came out of the pits, shifted into 3rd and started rolling onto the throttle and that was it, I could clearly see the low fuel pressure on the AP. I had to signal a mechanical failure right away and limped on the inside of the track back to the garages.

Log 1 is the entire 1st session -- I started getting drops in fuel pressure and misfires on the 6th lap, fun starts in row 3822 and continues from there. I come off the main straightaway, brake preparing for turn 1, and then maintain speed to go through turn 1 so app is only at about 20% and this is when the fuel pressure drops. The attached graph shows the fuel pressure over time vs boost where boost > 3 psi.

Log 2 is the only lap of the 2nd session -- this is a short log as it is only one lap so you can see the fuel pressure is all over the place.

I have a DW65c installed and brand new CorkSport internals in a new HPFP housing I bought on the forum. Injectors are the only mechanical factor left at this point, I think, and I will be pulling them tonight, will post pictures if anything looks funny. I am still waiting for the cleaned and flow benched injectors from Injector Experts that supposedly shipped on Monday, wtf?

@Lex; any thoughts? Have you, or any tuners, ever seen the fuel pressure pattern like the one in log 2?
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 Old 05-17-2014, 01:04 PM   #259
 
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goddamn dude. i keep checking this thread in hopes you're finally able to utilize this car properly... wish i had some knowlege for you, but i do not, Goodluck finding the fuel gremlin
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 Old 05-17-2014, 02:35 PM   #260
 
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Uhmmmm, so I took off the TMIC in preparation for intake manifold removal and found out that the nipple on the IM was almost completely backed out, FML. It is a pnp'd GrimmSpeed IM and they capped the hole on top with some sealant, now the sealant is old and it popped out on me before causing a vacuum leak. Last time I pushed it back in and put some tape over it, this time it came off halfway and there was a bunch of wrinkled tape on top of it, this is why it passed a visual check and I never caught it until today.

For now, I cut off half of the thicker part of the nipple, pushed the sealant back in and put JB Weld on top, we will see if this fixes the problem but I have a feeling that it will. The shit is curing now, will report back tomorrow.
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 Old 05-17-2014, 07:40 PM   #261
 
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No, fixing the hole did not help, went for a limp dick drive around the neighborhood and it is still misfiring like crazy so I will have to pull the injectors.
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 Old 05-18-2014, 06:01 AM   #262
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Thought two have you checked inside of your tank for large sediments that could be clogging up the in tank filter? I would change the filter if you havent already and do your best to get the inside of the tank totally clean.

Lastly though I'm not sure this applies I helped a friend with the same symptoms on a boat a few years back. It would run great for an hour or so then it would slowly lose power until we were stuck idling back to the dock. It turned out that the fuel line had a check valve to keep all of the fuel in the line from draining back into the tank everytime you shut the
Engine off. It had filled with shit that made it past the in tank filter and after enough running would get jammed mostly closed swapped that $8 valve and never had another problem. I dont know if these cars have such a valve but I hope they do and it makes it a simple fix for you.
Check these please while you are working on it.
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 Old 05-19-2014, 07:08 PM   #263
 
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Déjà vu anybody?

Because I decided to pull the injectors, I figured I could do some more work around it:

-- check the injectors
-- tap the hole in the intake manifold
-- delete the ac compressor and relocate the alternator to the front
-- headlight restoration
-- replace the plastic pcv with the ptp pcv plate
-- delete windshield washer tank

I pulled the fuel rail and fuck, all the four seals are shot. @Lex; @silvapain; @phate; I guess that can explain the misfires and the hectic fuel pressure? Should I replace the injector harness or just the injectors and seals?

If a car is a she, mine turned out a nymphomaniac tranny hung like a horse who loves me long time.

Edit: Just realized the alternator will *not* come out with an aftermarket EM, I have to pull the DP at the very least, FLM.

Edit 2: Got the alternator out without removing the EM -- I had to remove the TMIC bracket and unbolt the RMM and lift the engine up a bit to wiggle out the alternator.
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 Old 05-19-2014, 09:04 PM   #264
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Is the harness damaged from the fire? If yes then replace it. Which seals are these and what are you going with next? Best to try and determine root cause for them leaking. Any damage to the bore?
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 Old 05-19-2014, 09:10 PM   #265
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Is the harness damaged from the fire? If yes then replace it. Which seals are these and what are you going with next? Best to try and determine root cause for them leaking. Any damage to the bore?
Those are PTP seals, I am going with Toyota diesel seals next. I have a separate set of injectors being cleaned and flow benched. The harness does not appear to be damaged but who knows? I do not think the bores are damaged, the bore on cylinder 3 looks the worst, lots of gunk on cylinders 1 and 2 as well, minimal gunk on cylinder 4 bore.

Edit: Found a spare injector harness in my junk room so I will be replacing the harness as well.
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 Old 05-21-2014, 06:50 PM   #266
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Went to the track today and started misfiring toward the end of the first session.

I was still able to finish the session as the misfires were bearable. For the second session, I flashed a detuned freek map which limits boost to 16 psi and I got and worst misfires ever. I came out of the pits, shifted into 3rd and started rolling onto the throttle and that was it, I could clearly see the low fuel pressure on the AP. I had to signal a mechanical failure right away and limped on the inside of the track back to the garages.

Log 1 is the entire 1st session -- I started getting drops in fuel pressure and misfires on the 6th lap, fun starts in row 3822 and continues from there. I come off the main straightaway, brake preparing for turn 1, and then maintain speed to go through turn 1 so app is only at about 20% and this is when the fuel pressure drops. The attached graph shows the fuel pressure over time vs boost where boost > 3 psi.

Log 2 is the only lap of the 2nd session -- this is a short log as it is only one lap so you can see the fuel pressure is all over the place.

I have a DW65c installed and brand new CorkSport internals in a new HPFP housing I bought on the forum. Injectors are the only mechanical factor left at this point, I think, and I will be pulling them tonight, will post pictures if anything looks funny. I am still waiting for the cleaned and flow benched injectors from Injector Experts that supposedly shipped on Monday, wtf?

@Lex; any thoughts? Have you, or any tuners, ever seen the fuel pressure pattern like the one in log 2?
when my injector went it was an absolute pain in the ass to trouble shoot. Misfire misfire misfire, fucked around in engine bay and misfire gone. Two days later after driving for an hour...misfire misfire misfire. Swapped that bitch out (also did seals) and gone. Wish I had those logs available for you but it was a LONG time ago.
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 Old 06-13-2014, 08:14 PM   #267
 
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Went to an open track day today running another set of injectors and another injector harness and the misfires are gone.

On my last session some fucktard coming out of the pits , it may be hard to see but the blend line was additionally marked with orange cones and the moron decided to cross the line because fuck other drivers who may be coming down at 100 mph. I went onto the oval and merged back a few turns later, I saw the moron getting black flagged.

@EyeKon;
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 Old 06-14-2014, 09:02 AM   #268

 
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With TWS closing where are you going to run in the future?

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 Old 06-14-2014, 09:19 AM   #269
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
With TWS closing where are you going to run in the future?
Will be buying a track and trailer and whoring around TX -- Houston MSR and Motorsport Ranch in Cresson, and whenever I can get into Harris Hill on a guess pass or sponsored.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 10:35 AM   #270
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Will be buying a track and trailer and whoring around TX -- Houston MSR and Motorsport Ranch in Cresson, and whenever I can get into Harris Hill on a guess pass or sponsored.
richie rich
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 Old 06-14-2014, 10:52 AM   #271
 
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@code money do you have an update on all the parts you've changed since you've started tracking the car, like you had on the first page of this thread?

I started tracking mine this year and stuff is breaking left and right (which is to be expected), it would be nice to see what things you've done to fix or prevent some of these problems.

Thanks man!!
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 Old 06-14-2014, 01:35 PM   #272
 
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Originally Posted by SpICeZ View Post
@code money do you have an update on all the parts you've changed since you've started tracking the car, like you had on the first page of this thread
This is gonna be long but here's my 2 cents.

You need to start building up a spare parts bin, it does not need to have all the possible parts, but the ones that cost an arm and a leg to buy brand new. I have spare harnesses, injectors, axles, hpfp, o2 sensors, you get an idea. For quick consumables (tires, rotors, pads, fluids), wait for a deal and buy extras, I always get my DBA rotors at half price. Basically, have spares for parts that can be replaced in an afternoon so you do not miss seat time on Sunday when shit breaks down on Saturday.

Invest in a second set of wheels so you can have two sets with track tires. This provides two benefits. First, you have shops only mounting and balancing, then you swap the wheels yourself not worried about some moron over-tightening the lugnuts. Second, you have a back up set if you cord or wear out your current set in the middle of a track weekend, happened to me twice.

I currently have 3 sets of wheels:

1. 17x9 ULR's + spare rim (track tires)
2. 17x9 ULR's + spare rim (track tires)
3. 18x7 OEM (street tires)

I am planning on purchasing yet another set for the track and I will have rain tires mounted on them.

Be religious about your fluids, I have oil changed every 1,500-2,000 miles.

List of the current mods is as follows:

Code:
roll cage
UltraShield seats
I/O Port seat back braces
UltraShield harnesses
fire extinguisher
ac & heater delete
alternator relocation
--
NRG SRK-160H short hub
NRG 2.8 gen quick release			
NRG ST-006S steering wheel
--
SPC ball joints
AWR endlinks
--
rolled fenders (front & rear)
949Racing 6ULR 17x9 +48
custom spacers, 8mm front, 5mm rear
ARP 12mm extended wheel studs
245/45/17 Dunlop Direzza ZII
--
DBA 4000 rotors
Carbotech XP12 pads
CorkSport ss brake lines
--
SURE Dreadnaught
SURE Juggernaught
SURE RMM, PMM, TMM
--
reinforced clutch pedal assembly
ACT 6 puck with prolite flywheel
CorkSport ss clutch line
--
Torque Solutions 3" shifter extender
Torque Solutions 112g shift knob
JBR shifter bushings
JBR shifter weight
--
EGR delete (primary & secondary)
JBR IM & TB TIG
coolant bypass
--
HTP battery tray
Braille B2015 battery
--
CorkSport HPFP
Toyota injector seals
Deatschwerks ITFP
--
GrimmSpeed PnP IM & TB
3-bar MAP
JBR 3" intake
ETS TMIC
--
RaceBuilt EM
cp-e DP
cp-e single-exit CBE
--
Stratified EBCV
NGK LTR7IX-11
Cobb AP
freektune
The only major thing left, sans built engine, is suspension. I have been waiting 15 months now on a custom set of coilovers. Once I get them and corner balance the car, it will be 90% done.

Afterwards, I will have little things to do here and there, in no particular order:

bbk -- not sure if go CorkSport or custom
brake ducts
tow hooks
kill switch
more cooling (racing radiator, oil, differential, transmission coolers)
wire cleanup (yank air bag and entertainment system wires)
gauges (oil temp, oil pressure, water temp)
aero at some very distant point in the future

I am slowly prepping for a built engine, at which point I will upgrade many other things.

I have a spare long block sitting on the side, a GTX3071 EWG, i-Moto shift forks, transfer case bearing caps, DCR VVT actuator, and will look into the upcoming CorkSport cams when it is time to go forged.

I still have not fixed the paint on the hood from the fire, the shop quoted $700 for repair but if I am to pay that much, I have been going back and forth with the following idea:

-- get a FMIC
-- remove all the ducting under the hood
-- cut off as much metal from under the hood as feasible
-- have vent holes punched or louvers installed
-- have hood pins installed
-- then, and only then, repaint the hood

Other notes:

If you need to keep a cat for some reason (emissions, boost creep), do yourself a favor and buy a v-band *catless* DP with the flex section near the top, then have a cat welded at the bottom, in the test pipe location, this way the cat will be away from the heat source and last much much longer, I burned through the cp-e high flow cat in about 6 months.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 02:12 PM   #273
 
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Wow, thanks for the thorough update.
On the road now so I won address all my questions. However one thing jumps out, are you really considering an FMIC? How do you plan to make that work?

I'm currently considering a devils own kit to drop my bats as they are insane on the track.

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 Old 06-14-2014, 02:19 PM   #274
 
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Yesterday, in 90-degree weather and on a 17 psi tune, I was hitting a max of 192 F BAT, most of the time the BATs were between 165-175. I would go with a vertical flow FMIC, either FullRace or custom, at my power levels I doubt I need a huge core. I am still debating TMIC/FMIC, one option is to stay top mount with an Aquamist meth kit.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 03:34 PM   #275
 
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What's the latest news on your FCM suspension? Will you ever get these parts? Looking forward to your review of the new suspension.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 03:40 PM   #276
 
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Originally Posted by cnyms6 View Post
What's the latest news on your FCM suspension? Will you ever get these parts? Looking forward to your review of the new suspension.
Just posted latest update.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 04:59 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Yesterday, in 90-degree weather and on a 17 psi tune, I was hitting a max of 192 F BAT, most of the time the BATs were between 165-175. I would go with a vertical flow FMIC, either FullRace or custom, at my power levels I doubt I need a huge core. I am still debating TMIC/FMIC, one option is to stay top mount with an Aquamist meth kit.
Just go race car and put a big ass hood scoop on it.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 05:03 PM   #278
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Just go race car and put a big ass hood scoop on it.
If I could found someone who could do it, I would.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 05:07 PM   #279
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
If I could found someone who could do it, I would.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-470800/overview/

3m tape plus some rivets and your done. Don't be a fag and worry about appearances.
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 Old 06-17-2014, 03:49 PM   #280
 
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With the Fat Cat coilovers finally shipped -- not just a shipping label created but FedEx has the packages in their possession -- it is time to think about the remaining mods I posted above.

A while ago, I contacted AWR about their racing radiator for the ms6 and also tried to score it through one of the vendors on here, with no luck. I thought it had been discontinued but today for shit and giggles I called Ron Davis Racing Productions and to my surprise the radiator is still available, it is built to order and the wait time is about six weeks. It costs $587.51 + shipping and obviously I have ordered it, will post thoughts and pictures once I get it.

To break the monotony of the World Cup, I also searched around for a brake upgrade. Here is one front kit made for the ms6 out of South Africa, and here is another kit for the front and the rear which retains the e-brake. I have not found an actual review of the latter, just "made in Taiwan therefore shit" comments, but who knows. There is also the CorkSport front kit and I can always go custom, need to do more research on that.
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