Mpg's on ms6's ??? Anyone else getting crappy mileage?
 

Hi everyone on here and glad I have joined on here. I did a basic search for this topic and could not find one. Anyways, I just recently got the car and had seems some people saying on the forums off topic about how they are getting 25+ mpg's and I wondering how the hell are they getting that. My first tank I was only getting around 15mpg. Second tank was about 17mpg and I was doing a lot more short shifting and trying to stay out of boost unless I needed to get Into it. I know it has a turbo meaning boost= more fuel and also know its all wheel drive. But I am wondering if this is normal or do I need to change some things. I only have ht programmer for now and the rest of the car is stock. The car is a 2007 ms6, I live in MA and the car has 53k miles. The first week I did not have the ht program, the second week I put the ht program in. Last week the car was in the shop and had a new warranty turbo, timing chain, tensioner, vvt actuator and a new air/fuel sensor. Also running 93 fuel. Just had oil changed last week while at dealer with oil I supplied synthetic 5w30. :Flush:

It really depends on the sort of driving you do. If you do much city driving then you're unlikely to break 21/22mpg in the MS6 in my experience. On the other hand, when I bought my car (2006 MS6 with 44.8k on it at time of purchase), I got 27.5mpg on the way from Houston, TX back to Detroit, MI. Once I bought a Cobb AP and tuned the car with an OTS tune (similar to what you've done with your HT), I began getting in excess of 32mpg on a regular basis for highway driving. My city mileage still hovers around 21/22mpg though, unless I'm a little aggressive in which case, I've seen as low as 12mpg hehe.

You may also be experiencing the wonders of winter fuel mixtures. They invariably cause poorer mileage.

As for your turbo, you may want to check the part number on your invoice and make sure that it's the correct turbo. There've been a few members on here who have had their warranty replacements end up being Mazda CX-7 turbos, which means that they're a little smaller, begin producing boost earlier, and reduce overall output somewhat.

Damn 32mpg...I need hurry and get an AP

One thing to increase mileage is let the car breathe so look into a SRI/CAI. I have an 2006 MS6 and being Canadian, I average about 6.6km to the L which isnt the best but I also dont drive lightly.

I have a HT as well and noticed an improvement with that and the Mazdaspeed Option for the CAI. So much so there was no initial mileage drop from switching to the snow tires from the Falken Ziex 912s. Now from switching back from Michilen Super Sports to the Pirelli 240 Sottozero, there is a minor hit in the last 2 weeks of filling up. I'm average about 440-470km a tank where as initially it was 500 forever.

I do average 480-550km's per tank running 94 Octane. If I used 91, that can easily and instantly drop to 350+-. I think the 94 Octane is a Canadian Chevron thing.

Check your tire psi and keep them up around 40-44. At least that helps mine.

Hope some of this helps and if I have to recommend any intake replacements, I'd go Mazdaspeed or SURE.

Yeah...it's definitely doable.

For shits and giggles on one long-distance drive to visit my gf, I decided I would try and really hypermile...ended up going 390 miles and when I filled up, the tank would only take 10.4 gallons. That's right...37.5mpg.

I don't really recommend driving the car like that though, it just feels wrong to be hypermiling a performance car.

You need to be a little careful about the SRI/CAI thing, as you can easily INCREASE your fuel consumption using one as well if you don't tune for it. More airflow can mean the car supplies MORE fuel.

In addition, you should be cautious about how far you over-inflate your tires. The load rating and max inflation specs are important with respect to safety. You can also end up drastically reducing the longevity of your tires by causing uneven wear patterns by over-inflating them (ask me how I know).

Also, 480-550km/tank is only about 19-21mpg which isn't all that good unless you're doing a lot of city driving or have a reasonably heavy foot.

Why I no get 58mpg on awd sports car?!

Because sports car.

Thanks guys for the input. I was considering the sure sri and tip, when the price is right or when I have the extra dough I plan on picking up the ap programmer. I do happen to get on it here and there. And my driving ranges roughly 1/2 highway and half city. From my home to work it is roughly 20miles per day round trip. But I do mixed driving in between. And average about 250miles per week and have to fill up around or before that. My first week of having the car I only got 225 miles to a tank when refilled it took 15.5 gallons with top off. Second week was around 280 and it looks like that for this tank.
Do you know the part number for the cx7 turbo and the ms6 turbo replacement?

my mpg is garbage... but i also drive it like i stole it.

LOL, i get 15mpg in local, well i got wider/thinner tires, mpg went to crap :p but on freeway cruising i still get like 25mpg.

Seafoam your car, it might help ;)

Daaaammmmnnn dude!!! 32mpg get outta here prius!

I got ap but just here recently but I haven't seen that...
However when I drive on the highway my ap suggest I get 35mpg but my miles from tank say different.

I have no clue what everyone is smoking. But ive typically drive a 70/30 highway/city mix, and during my 12 months of logging i am averaging 21.63 MPG. I live in the sf bay area and commute from sf to east bay everyday. I did a 2 week experiment and went light footed (55mph ave), i averaged only 26 MPG!!!!! complete waste of time. I rather drive normal/ spirited and get 22MPG then like a granny and get only 26MPG. Anyone getting over 26MPG for a consistent basis must have a different 2.3 engine then what mazda gave me. CHEERS!

With my 3 gallons of e85 tune I'm seeing 21mpg average with spirited driving at a 30/70 mix of highway/city.


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I do about 80/20 highway/city driving and average around 23-24 mpg. most I gotten out op the tank was 340 miles before my idiot light came on.
Don't really like letting the tank get lower than 1/8 before fill ups but wanted to see how much I can get out of it.

Yeah, the AP is always optimistic, which is why I always hand-calculate my mileage. That being said, the AP is pretty consistent in how optimistic it is, as it is almost exactly 2mpg higher than whatever my hand calculations suggest.

For those of you doubting my fuel economy numbers, please keep in mind that I do a lot of long-distance highway driving and don't do much in the city. As a result, I end up cruising for ~350-400 miles (sometimes without a stop) with cruise control set over reasonably flat ground. As a result, it's easier for me to keep my mpg high than for those of you who do mixed driving.

Both actually. I do do a lot of mixed highway and city driving while also being ledfooted by nature. For comparison, when I have driven strictly highway with the spirited sessions thrown in, I've averaged over 4 roughly tanks (vancouver to kelowna, 3 hour drive) about 720km's or 450 miles. Which considering its a semi mountainous drive, isnt so bad.

As for all internet recommendations, people should do their own homework instead of taking it for gospel. But its always good to have a voice of reason in thread as what works for me, may not work for him, you, or even for me in a year.

Well I just did a top engine clean with a can of bg fuel cleaner. Ran it through the brake booster hose. I made sure I got the car good and hot then sucked down most of the can near empty then stalled it out on the last bit by making it full concentrated amount and will let it sit for a couple more hours. So far since I had done it until now it has been 5.5 hours. I recon it will smoke quite a bit. Hopefully this helps with mpg's. Only getting 260miles to a tank.

In for hydro lock.

Yea, meanwhile I have done this procedure before when I worked at a dealer for 7 years.

Don't mean to thread Jack, but how often do you guys seafoam your cars?

As for mileage, I get around 20 MPG average. This is with 70% city, 30% HW.

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32 hwy is the best I've heard of on a MS6. I get 22 city and 30 hwy. I am fully bolted with a GT28.

op is a fag. i rape my car every time i drive it, who gives a fuck about mpg. dont buy a car that needs to power four wheels and is turbo charged. eat a fucking dick and buy a prius

/thread

You took the words right out of my mouth. Why buy a turbo charged car if you only intend to drive it to eek out fuel economy? I go wot any chance I get. That's why I bought the damn car.

Well by the looks of you forum pic it looks like your the one eating a dick. I just got the f-ing car. My basic reason for the post is curiousity not bitching about my mpg. Some people want to see if there is a hidden engine problem or other internal problems. You should try using your brain and read the post and how it is put in words.

Oh noob you have so much to learn. Lol at you thinking that's me in the avatar.
I'm tired of reading threads that have been covered plenty of times already. Instead of making threads inquiring information, USE GOOGLE. 3 minutes of research would have yielded all the information you desired.
How cute that you won't use the work FUCK and have to abbreviate it. Don't worry, you won't get a spanking for talking like an adult here.

FYI for those that are replying negatively at this post, brought car to dealer since still under warranty and found the t chain tensioner was stuck and the chain was stretched causing the timing to be off. Also they replaced the vvt actuator cause they said it was acting up. So that answers my mpg thread. So what does driving a Prius have to do with this topic?? I am trying to use this forum for help and to try and help others not burn people.

because there are a million fuckin thread on the same got damn topic. now i dont think that has been covered before, so you should copy that information into the original post. i too had a bad vvt actuator, stretching the timing chain but experienced no issues with timing and mpg

Has your mpg actually increased after that work was done? What are you getting now?

For real world numbers go here.

Http://www.fueleconomy.gov

Yea, but not by much and I have done a few things to the car that changed the air/fuel ratio. I am roughly getting around 18.5 or so. The beginning of the week I opened her up and went the fastest I have ever gone before in a car! 152mph! The front door weatherstrips were leaking air pretty bad after 147mph.

That's not really too bad. In my Ms3 I get 18-21 MPG in daily driving. In pure highway cruising (70-80 mph) I get about 25 MPG max.

If I cruised at 55 on the highway I might be able to get 30. But I'm not doing that.

Hey vansquish,

I just saw your post about improved mileage and had a question about the AP.
I have a stock 2006 MS6 with about 130K on it. I’m about to replace the KO4 with a rebuilt one (not BT unfortunately).
I’ve read on the forums that if I want to protect the replacement KO4 I should put in a restrictor bolt and raise the idle.
To do that I would need a Cobb AP. (the idle, not the bolt ;-) )
Since I would have the AP I may as well change the mapping for better fuel mileage. I’m not looking to seriously mod the car as it’s my DD.

How easy is it to raise the idle and do the fuel tune using the OTS you mentioned and what are the potential risks of doing this ?

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I tried searching the forum but most of the posts I found were about adding an AP to a modded car. This was the only thread I found where one of the posters was talking about using the AP on a stock car.
I also looked at Bnoon’s thread about tuning using ATR and most of it involved adjusting numbers in the logs etc. I don’t want to get into something that may damage the car since it’s my DD and with 135K on it I need to try to protect it. I would have no idea which adjustments were safe and which were not so I came here looking for advice. The days are gone where I use WOT a lot, especially with the issues I have with oil consumption right now.
So, nice picture, but - Yawn.

I get 24 city driving often if Im not getting on it I just set cruise control.

I got 27mpg all highway driving to tallahassee about 75mph. Mixed, I get 20-21.

If you have an aftermarket intake, you can use it as a tool to help mileage. If you hear the turbo spooling up, you're giving it too much throttle.

It takes true granny driving to not hear the turbo, but it works for mileage. Also shift at 2.5k to 3k.

My gut reaction to your post was a forehead smack, but then I thought about it a little more and decided that I probably would've been in a similar situation had I never used an AP and never touched ATR (Access Tuner Race). So, here's the answer:

1. The oil restrictor bolt may help you, but I'm not sure that you need it on a stock K04 at stock power levels. You probably know better than I.

2. Running 5w40 Rotella (or some similar fully-synthetic oil) will help reduce the amount of seepage at the turbo.

3. You could easily run an OTS, stage 1 map on your car and see a modest bump in power (basically the power/torque curve extends beyond 5500rpm a little farther than stock) despite the fact that the car is otherwise stock.

4. Changing the idle speed is extremely simple once you've downloaded a copy of ATR to go with your AP. All you need to do is find the map you wish to use, open it in ATR, and go to the "idle tables" section. There, you'll see what RPMs are commanded for various Engine Coolant Temperatures (ECTs) and for when the A/C is on as well. If you bump those up to ~900rpm, you should see some improvement.

5. DO NOT, run the "Economy Map." As far as I've been able to determine (and I've done some fairly extensive testing), it doesn't improve your fuel economy much over an OTS Stage 1 map, AND it's more dangerous for your engine.

I just drove 4600km in 4 days. I averaged, 34mpg with the highest being 43mpg for a few hours at a time. I tuned and tweaked everything before, new tires etc.


everyday drivingbim around 26mpg with aggressive driving but over 100km/day.


my mileage improved by over 40% after I seafoamed twice, redid some venting, air conditioning service and tweaked my tuning

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.
I'm getting through a lot of oil (a quart every 150 miles) so tested my compressions with varying results. I've done it twice in the last couple of months.
The first time I got ~180 on all four cylinders which is ideal according to the workshop manual.
The second time I got ~180 on 1 and 4 but a much much lower reading on 2 and 3 (~120). So I let the engine crank over for a couple of extra seconds and got ~175 on 2 and 3.
Now I’m kinda stuck, are the rings worn or not…I have a rebuilt KO4 ready to go in but the local shop want $900 for the labor. (Mazda want $1200++). I tried to do it myself and got everything off except the oil drain and one of the coolant lines. I couldn’t get to either and can’t understand how the Mazda techs do it short of removing the transfer case. Anyway, I ended up putting it all back together – you can imagine how unhappy I was.
So my dilemma is to pay $900 and have the turbo replaced only to find out it was the rings after all. I can only imagine how much that would be. When I talked to Mazda the guy basically said if that’s the problem I might want to consider a new motor.
I’m considering the AP and a restrictor bolt to give the replacement turbo it’s best chance of survival, assuming the one I have is the cause of the problem.
I would also use the 5w40.