New addition to the family! CEL already?! Please help!

[polishlanman]

Hey guys, glad to join the team. Picked up a 2009 White MS3 in Orange County, CA on July 28th, 2012.

UPDATED August 7th
Thanks to the help of some users, here's the list of parts on the car:
CP-E TMIC
Cobb SRI
Cobb TIP
Forge BPV
Corksport Catless Downpipe
Unidentified aftermarket RMM
HPFP upgraded internals?


Here's what has happened so far:
1. CEL came up, identified as P0401 (EGR Valve). Either going to clean it or remove it altogether.
2. Rear clunking noise identified as dead shocks, front struts are about to give out. Going to replace them with Bilsteins.
3. Got an oil change done, synthetic.
4. Changed out the original FordMoCo spark plugs for Denso ITV22's.
5. Did a compression test, all cylinders are within 9% of each other (biggest gap is 9% difference).
6. Got my AccessPort today, running Cobb's "Safety-Mode Stage 2" tune.
7. Did some preliminary testing for fuel pressure, eye balling the numbers while at WOT between 1775-1840.
8. Getting a Dyno tune at Cobb on Tuesday, August 14th.
9. Front rotors and pads are gone, what do you guys think of replacing all the brakes with: http://www.knsbrakes.com/carItemDeta...&item_id=37078
10. Should I get the JBR transmission mount AND Passenger side mount? Should I get one or the other? Reasons?







You guys are the pros, if anyone lives in SoCal (near Long Beach or Santa Monica) I would appreciate a second opinion driving the car. Shoot me a PM if you have some free time and would help a fellow out. Otherwise, your opinion is greatly valued! Please let me know what you guys think!

PICS:


Friend's BRZ











Arthur

[SleeperHatch]

Looks like either a CP-E TMIC or a ETS. As far as the bypass valve goes its a Forge. And to me looks like a corksport downpipe. And those zipties look like shit not sure why theres so many on there. Lots of us in SoCal! Dash08

[JLee1469]

Go to any auto parts store to get the code looked into. Consider investing in an AP to tune for your mods and diagnose CELs.

Stick with the Cobb SRI, its already there and you don't have to deal with risking hydrolock. Definitely aftermarket downpipe of some sort.

Mileage? OEM shocks are prone to early failure, dead giveaway is dripping oil.

[WAHBAM]

I'm located in Long Beach, but I have the 2nd gen. I think you should need to get an AP asap to find out about those CELs before the 30 days period is over.

[ASHMS3]

The downpipe is Corksport, you need an AP sooner rather than later. Too much stuff to run without a tune, you also need to check and see if your hpfp is upgraded or not.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by JLee1469 Go to any auto parts store to get the code looked into. Consider investing in an AP to tune for your mods and diagnose CELs. Stick with the Cobb SRI, its already there and you don't have to deal with risking hydrolock. Definitely aftermarket downpipe of some sort. Mileage? OEM shocks are prone to early failure, dead giveaway is dripping oil.

If I disconnected my battery, reconnected it, would they still be able to figure out what the CEL was for? It definitely has stock shocks, I'll check up on those to check for any leakage.
The car has 55k miles. Why do you say stick with the SRI? I live in SoCal where it rains maybe 10 times a year? Wouldn't it make sense to go with a CAI?

Originally Posted by SleeperHatch Looks like either a CP-E TMIC or a ETS. As far as the bypass valve goes its a Forge. And to me looks like a corksport downpipe. And those zipties look like shit not sure why theres so many on there. Lots of us in SoCal! Dash08

Trying to figure out why those zip ties are there... not sure why.

Originally Posted by ASHMS3 The downpipe is Corksport, you need an AP sooner rather than later. Too much stuff to run without a tune, you also need to check and see if your hpfp is upgraded or not.

It definitely has a tune, just not a very good one.
How would I check if I have a HPFP upgraded or an aftermarket engine mount?

Thanks for the help guys! If anyone in Long Beach or Santa Monica could meet up for a quick test drive and opinion today, I'd greatly appreciate it. I want to take it in to the shop tomorrow to get it all figured out.

[Sid3wayS]

The bracket that holds the sri on used to break all the time, chances are previous owner put them on there to hold it in place should it have failed. And what leads you to think it has a tune?

[itskbo]

Just my .02 on the vibrations on low rpm, probably an aftermarket motor mount

[ASHMS3]

Originally Posted by polishlanman . It definitely has a tune, just not a very good one. How would I check if I have a HPFP upgraded or an aftermarket engine mount?

The CP-e pump has a label on the outside, other than that you will have to pull the pump and look for a name on the internals themselves. I know the newer Autotech's have a stamp on the barrel. I'm not sure if KMD or PTP have markings on them, maybe someone that has them can chime in on that one.

[Dano]

looks like the zip ties are holding a broken Cobb v1 SRI mount in place. It was common for them to break.

[mxlplx71]

car looks good
try to get the original owners name & number,
they should be able to fill in some blanks, ie tune,fuel pump
the cobb ap should be one of the first things you buy.
for the vibration,,my 09 does to with just a 70mm rmm

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 car looks good try to get the original owners name & number, they should be able to fill in some blanks, ie tune,fuel pump the cobb ap should be one of the first things you buy. for the vibration,,my 09 does to with just a 70mm rmm

How do you think I would get the previous owners name and phone number? The car came from an auction in New York. I'm in SoCal. CarFax doesn't show any type of data like that.

Originally Posted by itskbo Just my .02 on the vibrations on low rpm, probably an aftermarket motor mount

Is there anyway I could verify this? Put it up on a lift, jack it up, or look in a certain spot? Which motormount should I be looking at?

[mxlplx71]

i missed the part about the auction?, whoops, the title may have the name. mine had the previous owners name.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 i missed the part about the auction?, whoops, the title may have the name. mine had the previous owners name.

I financed it so I won't have the title in hand for quite a while. I guess I'm just going to be better off taking it to Cobb and getting it checked out.

[Roddiy]

Originally Posted by polishlanman I financed it so I won't have the title in hand for quite a while. I guess I'm just going to be better off taking it to Cobb and getting it checked out.

Sorry to say this, but it seems that car was heavily tuned/beaten on.

Also, you shouldnt be running a catless DP like that without a tune, how do you know it has a tune?


You most likely have FP internals, if the guy didn't even bother to stock out his TMIC or DP, he wouldnt have stocked out the FP. Also, you'd be hitting a LOT of fuel cut/hesitation with that DP in there and no FP.


Try to get an AP A.S.A.P. so you can be more sure about what your car is doing.

Good luck with the new car and welcome to MSF!

[Fergalicious]

well the rear end sound could be your exhaust as well. check and see if its connected all the way through the exhaust system. lifts would be an awesome way to check that. also, id check the rear motor mount under the car. you will see where it connects as soon as you lift it and remove the undertray. just getting it on lifts will help you out alot. getting the AP will help you out tremendously and it will be the best way to tune and make sure you dont go zoom zoom boom.

[polishlanman]

Do you guys think it would be worth switching out the Cobb SRI for a CAI? I live in SoCal so I don't see rain at all. Would it just be better to get a heat shield?

[Sid3wayS]

Wow...
yeah bro ignore what every one else has said about your car. Switching to a cai is the most important issue right now.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS Wow... yeah bro ignore what every one else has said about your car. Switching to a cai is the most important issue right now.

You're completely right. My mindset is I want everything done at once. If i have to retune the car (which I definitely do) and get an accessport. Might as well buy everything at one time, get the intake installed and retune it.

All your advice is appreciated, still trying to get a hold on everything here and learn as much as possible.

So here's what I have planned so far:
Getting a compression test, full inspection done sometime this week. Checking out engine and suspension. Will check out the whole underside with the mechanic and look over everything.
-If any repairs need to be made to my engine or transmission, the dealer per our contract, has to pay for 50% of it.
Going to Cobb and getting a dyno tune done, still on the fence about the accessport. $600 is a lot of money!

Really hoping to have everything figured out by the end of this week.

[iSeth]

Originally Posted by polishlanman You're completely right. My mindset is I want everything done at once. If i have to retune the car (which I definitely do) and get an accessport. Might as well buy everything at one time, get the intake installed and retune it. All your advice is appreciated, still trying to get a hold on everything here and learn as much as possible. So here's what I have planned so far: Getting a compression test, full inspection done sometime this week. Checking out engine and suspension. Will check out the whole underside with the mechanic and look over everything. -If any repairs need to be made to my engine or transmission, the dealer per our contract, has to pay for 50% of it. Going to Cobb and getting a dyno tune done, still on the fence about the accessport. $600 is a lot of money! Really hoping to have everything figured out by the end of this week.

You can get an AccessPort on here cheap or eBay for 535. Look up CR3Motorsports he sells them for 500 flat shipping included. As for your intake, I'd stick with a SRI. That's what I have and it's never given me one problem, plus I heard its hard to tune a injen... If you are going to replace it stick with a Mazda only brand like CorkSport or Cobb

[mizboo102]

a motor mount is easy to check for if you jack up the car

auto stores can read CELs usually. If you cleared it by disconnecting/reconnecting battery then it will come back if it's a problem. If it doesn't come back it was probably gas cap or something stupid.

CAI, SRI.... ehhh not really worth switching. If you are planning lots of mods, stay with the SRI. I think it's easier to take the bumper off to mess with my CAI than the way the instructions want you to install it.

[iSeth]

Originally Posted by mizboo102 a motor mount is easy to check for if you jack up the car auto stores can read CELs usually. If you cleared it by disconnecting/reconnecting battery then it will come back if it's a problem. If it doesn't come back it was probably gas cap or something stupid. CAI, SRI.... ehhh not really worth switching. If you are planning lots of mods, stay with the SRI. I think it's easier to take the bumper off to mess with my CAI than the way the instructions want you to install it.

^Well Said... Since it already has a DP and TMIC etc keep the SRI

[forcedinduktion]

Another Polack!

[Fergalicious]

The point is, if you are tuning and want the best tuner the AP is your best bet. Sri vs cai is an argument we have had too many times. Sri is your best bet and since it's already there keep it. The main thing is get that inspection then grab an AP and save yourself and your car from problems.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Speeden6]

OP, that i believe is a ETS TMIC cause I have the CP-E and it doenst have the cold side like that, the flange in built into the cold pipe that came with it.

you have a BPV not a BOV just a FYI for your info. DP is aftermarket, are you catless? have you looked to see if you ahve a second cat right after the bend from the engine to the rear?

your rattle sound mimics what i had and it was a bad exhaust mount, check that out.

before you go worrying about doing "everything" at once, take it step by step, first Donate for all the great konwlege and killer deals! second, get the App, no matter what you will use it cause you don't know spit about the car, yeah it may have a tune but by who? custom? creditable person or some kid that just messed around until the car stopped acting weird?

Getting a CEL so soon after buying it would be a instant concern, take it to the auto parts store ASAP all of them will run free checks on it and tell you the code, then after you donate you tell us the code and we tell you EXACTLY what is the problem and how to fix it.

If you are too afraid to pull the CDFP apart to find out the internals (Autotechs have markings, not sure about KMD and PTP do not) then you need a app to monitor your fuel pressure to make sure you are not killing the car.

[polishlanman]

Wow! Thanks for all the input and advice guys, I won't be switching intakes. I'll just invest in a heat shield. I am going to a mechanic tomorrow morning to get the rattle checked out and to see the car from underneath all for $40.
Mechanic said for an extra $40 he'll check out the CEL. Is it worth it? I know he's a detailed guy and will be brutally honest with me.

Speeden6 I have to say that so far this community has been extremely responsive and I'm really happy I joined the family. Hoping the guys here in SoCal are as nice as you guys. I am coming from the NASIOC community and they were good for the most part.

I'm going to talk to COBB tomorrow to see what they recommend I do about checking the fuel pump, dyno tune information and see if maybe I can get a package deal with an AP.

Will keep you all posted and I'll take some pics with my m43 camera when it's up on the lift tomorrow. *crosses fingers*

[mczimer]

Why would you pay 40 bucks to check a CEL which any auto parts store or chain car shop does for free? If they tell you it's xxx, then your trusty mechanic should look at the CAUSE of the code.
Also, read the noob threads so you understand why everyone is saying AP AP AP
Google zzb zoom zoom boom while you're at it

[MS3MYK]

Just to let you know, in California you cant just go into a parts store to get the code checked. There was a law passed 2 years ago stopping that. You can thank the B.A.R. for that!

[SofaKingAwesome]

If you're going to get an AP, get one from Edge (someone can mention them, I'm on mobile). They'll overnight it to you and you can read the codes (and clear them) with it. They're also authorized dealers so no matter what you are covered.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[WAHBAM]

Fuck the heatshield, just get the AP. eric@edgeautosport can help with that. Also when I got my car I was getting CELs by not tightening the gas cap to 5 clicks. Try that too, don't beat on the car until you get the AP & know all your mods.

[Jhornbrook]

In California I work at an oil change shop, autozone will send people to us. Any valvoline instant oil change will help you out. We have basic scan tools that can read codes. I write them down for people and say go to google or go on forums. I erase them. Just don't be a dick. If you were closer to me, I'd say come on down (San Clemente). But any of the shops will do it for free.

[polishlanman]

UPDATE!

I went to my mechanic today and got some great insight into how the car was treated. Here is some new info:

1. Rear shocks completely shot (this is what caused the rattling sound in the rear when driving over bumps)
2. Front struts heavily leaking
3. Front Rotors completely done. There's a huge lip on them and need to be replaced.
4. CEL was p0401 which is EGR Valve. I'm going to donate to this site and hopefully find some new friends on here to help out this weekend. I want to clean the EGR valve. The pads are okay and rear brake set up is completely fine for now.
5. I have a catless Corksport downpipe (as you all predicted)
6. I have an aftermarket Rear engine mount (not sure which one)
7. Still no idea on who tuned the car. Waiting to hear back from Cobb, I'd like a professional to tell me if I need to retune.

So as of right now I am looking at replacing my struts/shocks and front rotors.

Are stop-tech rotors good?
Would it make sense to buy suspension parts from people on the forums or should i invest in new shocks/struts?

Thanks for all the help guys! Feeling better and better!
p.s-is there a for sale/trade section of the forums? I don't see it.
p.p.s-will post pics tonight when I get home from work.

[Speeden6]

Donate and magic doors like for sale open for you lol. Glad to hear nothing to major

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by Speeden6 Donate and magic doors like for sale open for you lol. Glad to hear nothing to major

Nothing too major? I'll be happy if I can keep this all under four figures.

[Easter Bunny]

Why didnt you have a mechanic inspect the car before you bought it? You should have made them replace the shocks and brakes prior to purchase. You bought a car and now have to spend a grand or more in repairs. I hope that you got a deal.

[SleeperHatch]

Originally Posted by polishlanman UPDATE! I went to my mechanic today and got some great insight into how the car was treated. Here is some new info: 1. Rear shocks completely shot (this is what caused the rattling sound in the rear when driving over bumps) 2. Front struts heavily leaking 3. Front Rotors completely done. There's a huge lip on them and need to be replaced. 4. CEL was p0401 which is EGR Valve. I'm going to donate to this site and hopefully find some new friends on here to help out this weekend. I want to clean the EGR valve. The pads are okay and rear brake set up is completely fine for now. 5. I have a catless Corksport downpipe (as you all predicted) 6. I have an aftermarket Rear engine mount (not sure which one) 7. Still no idea on who tuned the car. Waiting to hear back from Cobb, I'd like a professional to tell me if I need to retune. So as of right now I am looking at replacing my struts/shocks and front rotors. Are stop-tech rotors good? Would it make sense to buy suspension parts from people on the forums or should i invest in new shocks/struts? Thanks for all the help guys! Feeling better and better! p.s-is there a for sale/trade section of the forums? I don't see it. p.p.s-will post pics tonight when I get home from work.

There's a very good chance you have NO TUNE on that car at all. Drive it carefully

Sent from my Evo LTE

[Sacrilicious]

stoptech rotors are exactly the same as centric rotors (centric bought them a while back)...except they're like twice the price. yes, they're perfectly good rotors, but for the love of god, don't pay more than you have to. tirerack sells the centric front rotors for $78 a pop.

consider the bilstein sport shocks if you want to do the shock replacement right. they're good for both stock and lowering springs.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by SleeperHatch There's a very good chance you have NO TUNE on that car at all. Drive it carefully Sent from my Evo LTE

Thanks for the tip, I'll be careful with it. Getting a compression test done sometime this week and then taking it to Cobb.

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious stoptech rotors are exactly the same as centric rotors (centric bought them a while back)...except they're like twice the price. yes, they're perfectly good rotors, but for the love of god, don't pay more than you have to. tirerack sells the centric front rotors for $78 a pop. consider the bilstein sport shocks if you want to do the shock replacement right. they're good for both stock and lowering springs.

Great advice, what's the deal with that "cryo" treatment? Is that a good thing to have for durability?
I'll look into Bilsteins! I have always had great experiences with them.

[tddvrrn]

polishlanman there is a great how-to written up by raider on how to clean the egr. it's very easy and painless. oven cleaner and brake parts cleaner worked the best for me. just keep the brake parts cleaner away from the gasket, it will eat off the nice black coating..

i got a pair of bendix vented front rotors for $90 shipped.. somewhere on the interweb. they don't have the fancy black tophat, but they work perfectly.

i and many others have sensen shocks. less than $200 for all 4, they are great if you have to stick to a tight budget.
otherwise, bilsteins and koni FSDs seem to be great for DDing.

[polishlanman]

Rear shock

Front strut

Inside of the front rotor







Need a new exhaust gasket, what part is this? Mechanic says it is dried and cracked. It could possibly be leaking air.

This gasket right here...






Doing a compression test next...
Once I figure out if my engine is in good standing, I have been pointed to KNS Brakes and this kit in particular is a great all around performer and not too expensive:
KNS Brakes

Thanks guys!