New addition to the family! CEL already?! Please help!

[chungeez]

i would check up on the lemon law code in cali. in new york, the dealer would be on the hook for fixing all this stuff at 100%, not this 50% bs. that's one of the reasons you pay a premium when you buy from a dealer vs. private party.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Why didnt you have a mechanic inspect the car before you bought it? You should have made them replace the shocks and brakes prior to purchase. You bought a car and now have to spend a grand or more in repairs. I hope that you got a deal.

Originally Posted by chungeez i would check up on the lemon law code in cali. in new york, the dealer would be on the hook for fixing all this stuff at 100%, not this 50% bs. that's one of the reasons you pay a premium when you buy from a dealer vs. private party.

In Maryland you have 30 days to return the car, though I'm not 100% certain if it is new or used?

Was the car sold as having a state inspection? In Maryland these items would have failed the inspection, you would be able to make the inspection shop cover repairs also.

Please explain why you feel compelled to spend your own money repairing this car when it clearly should be the responsibility of the dealer.

[mxlplx71]

your egr may just be unpluged..some people take the egr out and block it off.
mine is unplugged, and the cel is shut off with the ap.

Dealers dont have to ensure cars pass state emissions before they sell them?
dealer should fix, or take back and find an unmoded speed3 and build yourself.

[Sacrilicious]

Originally Posted by polishlanman Great advice, what's the deal with that "cryo" treatment? Is that a good thing to have for durability? I'll look into Bilsteins! I have always had great experiences with them.

naw, you shouldn't need to get the cryo treated ones. unless you race or do something really stupid, normal vented rotors will be perfectly good. i wouldn't bother wasting money on anything other than the plain vented centric front rotors.

[maddocx240]

Your egr is probably deleted, and the previous owner Could of had an ap on there and deleted the cel with an access port.. That cat less dp doesn't help things either. You need to get a ap and stop being cheap, you will regret it later..

[tddvrrn]

hey, get an ultragauge. it is $70 and will allow you to read/clear your codes and monitor parameters in real time. once you get an AP, you will be able to log with that, but until then, an ultragauge will let you keep up with what is happening..

also, once you can, monitor your fuel pressure. it should be at or above 1600 psi when going WOT, usually under hard acceleration in general. if it is hitting high 1700 or 1800 psi, you definitely have aftermarket internals. that is something you really want to keep up on, especially with your aftermarket DP and especially especially if it is a catless DP. with the mods you have, you really need a tune to make it all work together. some people have had luck with the hypertech and downpipes (MSMS3), but, with the levels of mods you already have and the need for you to log engine parameters to diagnose where your car stands, an AP is probably your best bet.

that brake kit looks good, but you can save some money and only do the fronts if that's all you need.

your shocks are a fucking mess!

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by maddocx240 Your egr is probably deleted, and the previous owner Could of had an ap on there and deleted the cel with an access port.. That cat less dp doesn't help things either. You need to get a ap and stop being cheap, you will regret it later..

The EGR is still there and connected. Nothing is pinched off or deleted. I'm going to clean it this weekend and see if that helps.

Doing a compression test myself this weekend, found a friend with the compression tool. How difficult is it to access the spark plugs? edit: by that I mean, about how much time will it take for a complete noob?

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Please explain why you feel compelled to spend your own money repairing this car when it clearly should be the responsibility of the dealer.

Answer my Fucking Questiion!!!!!

[ApexAddict]

Does anyone have a link on a DIY article for the compression test? I am going to help this young Polish man get it done. Also, about how long will it take to do the compression test?

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Answer my Fucking Questiion!!!!!

Woah! I'm just trying to prepare myself for the worst. So far I have only spent $80.
Talked to the dealership today and they told me to bring a laundry list of everything that's wrong. I told them the shocks and struts are done. The front rotors are done. That's all the concrete info I have for them at this point and time. He said he'll take the list and talk to the owner see if he will do anything about it. In the case that he doesn't do anything, I can't return the car and I'm not going to hire a lawyer. I want to be prepared to get this car fixed asap.
Hope that answers your question.

Originally Posted by ApexAddict Does anyone have a link on a DIY article for the compression test? I am going to help this young Polish man get it done. Also, about how long will it take to do the compression test?

PM me your tele#! Are you a local to SoCal? I might be doing the compression test tonight. Will let you know!

[lilred]

Throwing it out there since you want to "get everything at once" eric@edgeautosport.com will hook you up seriously I know it was mentioned but give them a call after that an etune would be better and cheaper

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by lilred Throwing it out there since you want to "get everything at once" eric@edgeautosport.com will hook you up seriously I know it was mentioned but give them a call after that an etune would be better and cheaper

Thank you! I'll give him a call when ready. Doing compression test on saturday, will keep you all posted!

[specvspeedfreak]

Where in long beach are you? I live in San Pedro. I can help out if you need. PM me if you need help.

[squilliam]

welcome! you picked up the exact same car as me. nice to see someone else from long beach on the forums.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by specvspeedfreak Where in long beach are you? I live in San Pedro. I can help out if you need. PM me if you need help.

PM'd

Originally Posted by squilliam welcome! you picked up the exact same car as me. nice to see someone else from long beach on the forums.

How are you liking yours? What do you have done? You should totally check mine out and let me know what you think.

[maddocx240]

Originally Posted by polishlanman The EGR is still there and connected. Nothing is pinched off or deleted. I'm going to clean it this weekend and see if that helps. Doing a compression test myself this weekend, found a friend with the compression tool. How difficult is it to access the spark plugs? edit: by that I mean, about how much time will it take for a complete noob?

oh ok, wel clean it out and see.. i think that catless dp might be giving you an issue, it could be throwing the code as well.. i kmow it says egr but sometimes codes get funky.. and it takes about 30 min to change the plugs maybe less.. just take off the intercooler and its right there..

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by maddocx240 oh ok, wel clean it out and see.. i think that catless dp might be giving you an issue, it could be throwing the code as well.. i kmow it says egr but sometimes codes get funky.. and it takes about 30 min to change the plugs maybe less.. just take off the intercooler and its right there..

I'll give it a nice clean this weekend.



UPDATE: I'm getting an accessport and scheduling for a protune at Cobb, I really hope this is the right move. Anyone have bad experiences with Cobb or know a better place to go and get dyno tuned? Thanks!

[squilliam]

Originally Posted by polishlanman PM'd How are you liking yours? What do you have done? You should totally check mine out and let me know what you think.

sounds good, PM'd you my number, lmk when's a good time. I love it, just updated my sig with my mods.

[polishlanman]

Hey guys! Did the compression test yesterday. Here are my stats:
Cylinder 1: 182
Cylinder 2: 188
Cylinder 3: 191
Cylinder 4: 192

Looking mighty healthy!




When i turned the car on, I got a P2088 CEL involving Camshaft position sensor? I didn't touch anything like that. I did, however, disconnect fuses when I was doing the compression test. Any ideas as to what may have happened?
EDIT: Fixed the CEL, had to re-seat the camshaft position sensor and reconnect a few plugs. Everything is nice and shiny now!
Thanks!

[Big_Burd]

I skimmed the thread but seriously get a Cobb AP, some of the members on here could tell you exactly what's going on based on your logs...for now you're just trying to go off of the seat of your pants, which might not let you know your motor is about pop.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by Big_Burd I skimmed the thread but seriously get a Cobb AP, some of the members on here could tell you exactly what's going on based on your logs...for now you're just trying to go off of the seat of your pants, which might not let you know your motor is about pop.

Alright, I talked to Cobb and I'll get one this week.

[Big_Burd]

I just reread my post and I sounded a little bit like a prick, so I'll elaborate.

Basically though with this car a fuel pump and ap are essential if you plan on modding, and the car you bought was pre-modded without you having anyway of monitoring your engine.. and hopefully you have a fuel pump and the pressure on that bad chicken isn't dipping under 1600psi.

You might be lucky and the person had a decent tune, even if you do, it would still be worth the peace of mind having a dashhawk to know whats going on. The AP is king though, and if you can swing it I most definitely would. The car is durable and can push some big power, I'm not trying to spook ya..however if it's not running in it's comfort zone the problems start.

TL DR;NCE Until you know what kind of tune and what's going on with your car, don't roll the dice and beat on it.

[squilliam]

were you on cherry and spring this morning at around 9:30?

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by squilliam were you on cherry and spring this morning at around 9:30?

Yes I was! You saw me on my way to work.

UPDATE: I talked to the dealership and they said "It's a used car. Sold as is. All I can offer you is labor at cost and OEM parts at cost, tax free."
They're also giving me a free synthetic oil change... I guess that's better than absolutely nothing.

Getting the Accessport this week and scheduling a tune with Cobb as soon as possible.

[squilliam]

Originally Posted by polishlanman Yes I was! You saw me on my way to work. UPDATE: I talked to the dealership and they said "It's a used car. Sold as is. All I can offer you is labor at cost and OEM parts at cost, tax free." They're also giving me a free synthetic oil change... I guess that's better than absolutely nothing. Getting the Accessport this week and scheduling a tune with Cobb as soon as possible.

haha, yeah i was hopping on the 405S. Do you know how much the tune is going to cost you from Cobb? You might want to consider getting an e-tune from someone on the forums. i'm sure it'll be much more inexpensive.

[Onelovesoccer]

e-tune ftw.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by squilliam haha, yeah i was hopping on the 405S. Do you know how much the tune is going to cost you from Cobb? You might want to consider getting an e-tune from someone on the forums. i'm sure it'll be much more inexpensive.

Yeah, Cobb has an accessport/tune package combo that saves about $250.
$600 Accessport
$495 Tune
$1095 Total
-$250 combo deal
$850 final price

I'd rather get the car dyno tuned so I know it's 100% safe. I knew a guy with an evo who had a reputable E-tuner tune his motors. Engine gave out on a track day.
While I'm not discounting the safety and accuracy of an e-tune, the dyno tune is more of a personal comfort thing.




UPDATE: So I'm picking up my accessport tomorrow. How do I log my data so you all can see how my engine is doing? How do I tell if I have an aftermarket fuel pump?

Thanks guys!

[tddvrrn]

Originally Posted by polishlanman How do I tell if I have an aftermarket fuel pump? Thanks guys!

when you figure out how to log and/or monitor, fuel pressure above 1700 at WOT (for long periods, not just a blip up above 1700..) would indicate you probably have internals. if you hit and hold 1800, you definitely have internals.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by tddvrrn when you figure out how to log and/or monitor, fuel pressure above 1700 at WOT (for long periods, not just a blip up above 1700..) would indicate you probably have internals. if you hit and hold 1800, you definitely have internals.

Sweet, I guess we'll know tomorrow!

UPDATE: Changed my sparkplugs to Denso ITV22, getting an oil change tomorrow to synthetic and an Accessport.

Thanks to squilliam for lending a hand with putting my TMIC back on and identifying that I do, in fact, have a Cobb TIP.

[Onelovesoccer]

logging is easy. select "monitor" then "datalog" scroll down to the fuel pressure option, select it, and hit the big button when ready to log. then you'll just go WOT in 3rd gear. do it again in 4th gear. roughly, the 3rd gear pull is 30-80mph and the 4th gear pull is 60-100mph. once the pull is done, hit the big button and it'll stop logging. rinse and repeat. so find a good stretch of road that is not busy. do a few pulls until you think you got some good data logs.

when you get home, download them from you AP to your PC. take a look and you can post them here if you aren't sure what the logs are telling you.

[SuperTrooper169]

Sounds like maybe your CEL is off now, but if it is indeed a clogged EGR valve it'll come back on in a day or two. Mine came on a few days after buying my MS6 and went away after a few start ups, but continued to come back. I got the code read at AutoZone and that weekend took the EGR valve and tube off, cleaned the snot out of them with brake cleaner and waa-laa no more CEL since them, over a year later with 20,000 additional miles on it. Another key investment IMO is get yourself an oil catch can installed. Helps keep that EGR clean after putting all that effort into cleaning it out.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by SuperTrooper169 Sounds like maybe your CEL is off now, but if it is indeed a clogged EGR valve it'll come back on in a day or two. Mine came on a few days after buying my MS6 and went away after a few start ups, but continued to come back. I got the code read at AutoZone and that weekend took the EGR valve and tube off, cleaned the snot out of them with brake cleaner and waa-laa no more CEL since them, over a year later with 20,000 additional miles on it. Another key investment IMO is get yourself an oil catch can installed. Helps keep that EGR clean after putting all that effort into cleaning it out.

A couple other members on the forums have suggested deleting the EGR altogether. Thinking of going that route and not risking excess carbon deposits on my valves.

[SuperTrooper169]

Originally Posted by polishlanman A couple other members on the forums have suggested deleting the EGR altogether. Thinking of going that route and not risking excess carbon deposits on my valves.

That's an option a lot of people do, but I've heard the side effect is it can make your catalytic converter more likely to fail quicker than with the EGR intact. It's a personal decision but I decided to keep mine and just empty the OCC when I change the oil.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by SuperTrooper169 That's an option a lot of people do, but I've heard the side effect is it can make your catalytic converter more likely to fail quicker than with the EGR intact. It's a personal decision but I decided to keep mine and just empty the OCC when I change the oil.

Good thing I don't have a cat.

Original post updated! Check it out!

[SuperTrooper169]

Originally Posted by polishlanman Good thing I don't have a cat. Original post updated! Check it out!

Your downpipe is cat-less but you should have a 2nd cat that attaches to that unless you have a race pipe or aftermarket exhaust on it. Might want to confirm that.

[tddvrrn]

Originally Posted by SuperTrooper169 That's an option a lot of people do, but I've heard the side effect is it can make your catalytic converter more likely to fail quicker than with the EGR intact. It's a personal decision but I decided to keep mine and just empty the OCC when I change the oil.

just so there is full info and to avoid confusion, having an OCC will not keep the EGR clean. sure, having blowby come in the IM and/or intake (not sure where you put your catch can) is going to cause some excess carbon in the exhaust, but these cars run rich on stock tunes and only slightly less rich on good tunes. that unburnt fuel causes lots, if not most, of the carbon we see coming out of our exhausts as well as the carbon getting recirculated through the EGR.

i still have my EGR working and just plan on cleaning it when it throws a code. i made it 75k before it needed its first cleaning.. surely this won't be a very frequent occurrence.

[polishlanman]

UPDATE: I checked what my fuel PSI is at under WOT 4th gear pull. at 15psi I was getting a consistent 1730psi. Looks like I'm good to go!

[Onelovesoccer]

at 15psi, you wouldn't see the issue. you need to have a full Stage 2 tune pushing for 18, 19, or 20psi and see how your fuel pressure is under that amount of boost. now that you confirmed the fuel pressure is okay with their "safety-mode" tune, flash an actual Stage 2 tune for Cobb SRI/TIP + upgraded TMIC + upgraded CDFP + removal of at least 1 cat (your DP removed both). then go do more logs and take a look. if you're still holding strong, you can safely assume you actually do have upgraded FP internals.

SuperTrooper169, Corksport's downpipe is a long downpipe. so if it is catless, then both cats are now gone.

[polishlanman]

Originally Posted by Onelovesoccer at 15psi, you wouldn't see the issue. you need to have a full Stage 2 tune pushing for 18, 19, or 20psi and see how your fuel pressure is under that amount of boost. now that you confirmed the fuel pressure is okay with their "safety-mode" tune, flash an actual Stage 2 tune for Cobb SRI/TIP + upgraded TMIC + upgraded CDFP + removal of at least 1 cat (your DP removed both). then go do more logs and take a look. if you're still holding strong, you can safely assume you actually do have upgraded FP internals. SuperTrooper169, Corksport's downpipe is a long downpipe. so if it is catless, then both cats are now gone.

UPDATE: I ran a full stage 2 map today and had the opportunity for 2 good 3rd and 4th gear pulls. I saw numbers staying stable in the low 1800's peaking at 1850. Hope that confirms that I have upgraded HPFP internals! What do you guys think?

[Onelovesoccer]

attach the logs to be sure. but it seems that you do if you were holding 1800psi with no issues on a stage 2 tune.